NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video
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Vapes as well as I could want it to. I doubt that will be the case once the liquid gets low, but if you and BR never hit dry spots, then it might be wide enough that I won't either.
That darn wick turned black in less than two hours. I torched it brilliant white to start. I use liquids with a lot of oil though. I don't think that helps...
If it tastes like it is burning when new I just put a drip of pga on the coil and within seconds it draws the juice up nice and quickly. I add pga to my vg juices to help them wick better and end up with less gunk build up than using straight vg. for those who occasionally get pg allergy like me.
Yes what Nick said and also can you explain again how the top tube is assembled? Do you have it sliding over the filler ring? Why did you put the white mouthpiece over the cup?? How are you sealing everything and also, explain how you inserted the top cut part of the cart through the syringe phlange/stopper? lol--sorry...I want to try to do this and you guys post these pics and I study them and...and...and...
oh and I just got my E2R4 3.0 ohm XLs in and filled it with 1.8 of madvapes Fried apple. Its going pretty good, no burn tastes. I didn't bother washing it out- simply blew through both ends then dry-burned a good five times at ten sec intervals. When I first started the dry burn something sizzled and smoked off the coil then it got quiet. Then things got tasty...things are still tasty...
it's basically the same as this, though right now i have a rubber grommet that BR used on his bottle mod. It's ok, but not pocket proof, hence in the drawing I show vinyl tubing with two mouthpieces and a drip tip. The reason the top vinyl extends so far is that I need to be able to pull it out in order to fill and you need a good 3/8" extension to grab onto. It fits pretty tight with the mouthpieces and driptip inside it. No leaks. yet...
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Hopefully the drawing will answer some of your questions.
The white mouthpiece over the ceramic cup is another BR contraption that seems to work well. It just seals the cup from leaks. It can be pressed down somewhat to cover the slits more or less to suit your needs.
It self seals because it's a tight fit and vinyl compresses just enough to seal.
Good point. I wonder if that's what's turning the wicks black? Or maybe a combo of whatever's on the wire in combo with oil base liquids?
I'm more interested in how you built the coils...
Just got my 510 3 ohm XL's in the mail (wow CoV is fast)...I am going to clean them then try them later. BR you mentioned using a hair drying to dry them - kinda tough to hold the unit in your hand. Anything you do for making a 'drying rack' like some sort of holder for the E2's while you run a hair dryer over them?I guess I could just toss them at a 45 degree angle in an egg tray.
I screw it on to an old battery and use it for a handle. That's also what I use with a torch while drying the wicks out in the open.
Who had the fix for a hard draw and what was it? I've tried boring the holes slightly larger, but it killed a few.
Got my 510 reg @3Ω today. I opened all 5 from one box and 2 of them were soaking wet. When I got to the filler seal they looked like used ones with juice all over it. The other 3 were dry, but when i did a dry burn I smelled the same smell as I tasted on my last batch.
So I threw all 5 in the vodka and hit them with the steam cleaner. I have one going as is with wick, and one going with no wick and PTB. I really notice the difference between the 2.5Ω and the 3Ω. To tell you the truth, I was a bit happier with the 2.5 I think. Its all good though.
If I get my crap together, I might make a bottle or syringe model for my home use. I have a friend coming over Saturday with some XL's I think I will trade him for a few.
So I threw all 5 in the vodka and hit them with the steam cleaner. I have one going as is with wick, and one going with no wick and PTB. I really notice the difference between the 2.5Ω and the 3Ω. To tell you the truth, I was a bit happier with the 2.5 I think. Its all good though.
If I get my crap together, I might make a bottle or syringe model for my home use. I have a friend coming over Saturday with some XL's I think I will trade him for a few.
Wow... where to start: Were these sealed in blister packs? Did they come direct from e-liquid.cn?
That sounds just.... weird.
^^^ COV, got them today from his latest shipment. Blister packed, just like my last ones from Bruce.
3Ω labeled right on the box. prod: 20100916
It was some kind of oil, but I think the taste is actually coming off the coil at first. I am getting used to the shotty QC on these.
I am just glad the vodka and steam clean brings them up to par.
I am not going to open any more just yet, I have 2 of this 5 going and they work and taste great.
I really have to stay away from my eGo with the 3Ω and go with a true 3.7 device. My mini GLV runs them pretty well.
I was thinking of taking a pic of the oily ones, but I just don't think it would have come out.
3Ω labeled right on the box. prod: 20100916
It was some kind of oil, but I think the taste is actually coming off the coil at first. I am getting used to the shotty QC on these.
I am just glad the vodka and steam clean brings them up to par.
I am not going to open any more just yet, I have 2 of this 5 going and they work and taste great.
I really have to stay away from my eGo with the 3Ω and go with a true 3.7 device. My mini GLV runs them pretty well.
I was thinking of taking a pic of the oily ones, but I just don't think it would have come out.
they are still sifting the crap out to people and vendors, amazing.
they fix one thing and ignore another all while not realizing some wicks arent long enough, all while not realizing that the new sleeve might constrict juice flow.
AS OF TODAY I CAN'T defend these monkeys any further, I appreciate the little changes to improve the e2 that took 4 months, I still do whole heartedly believe that the e2 design itself can be made to work perfectly and there is proof of that BUT THESE monkeys obviously are not striving for that.
There is no excuse for not having someone check the e2 and have it checked for bad wicks, loose coils, oils or primers in the e2, fixing the filler plug and tons of other crap that they arent doing.
Saying there is quality checking versus actual quality checking are 2 different things. So many people including myself are still recieving mixed batches filled with inconsistancy all over the charts. It amazes me that they where able to fix the dented connectors, they where able to get to get them to fire on all devices, they where able to stop the leaks yet they still have wicks that are placed shoddy, wicks that arent long enough at all, coils that are still to tight, fluids and oils in them STILL and even the ones that have no fluid still have a fluid on the inner plugs somehow and the wick still needs to be dry burned since the cleaning or steaming of the wick obviously didnt do the job. They most likely wont even care as long as they work for them with super thin pg juice then its good enough. The problem with that is that even with their own pg juice some still suck.
Much has been improved yet for every step forward they have taken 2 steps back.
Sifting through 40 e2's to find 10 good ones just aint cutting it anymore and all the promises in the world mean nothing when you cant deliver. I have enough to keep me busy and mod and since i have so many i can always go through a few and find good ones but enough is enough when it comes to the e2, either FIX IT RIGHT OR DONT SELL IT. Your ruining your image, your products name and then your ruining vendors and buyers at the same time.
they fix one thing and ignore another all while not realizing some wicks arent long enough, all while not realizing that the new sleeve might constrict juice flow.
AS OF TODAY I CAN'T defend these monkeys any further, I appreciate the little changes to improve the e2 that took 4 months, I still do whole heartedly believe that the e2 design itself can be made to work perfectly and there is proof of that BUT THESE monkeys obviously are not striving for that.
There is no excuse for not having someone check the e2 and have it checked for bad wicks, loose coils, oils or primers in the e2, fixing the filler plug and tons of other crap that they arent doing.
Saying there is quality checking versus actual quality checking are 2 different things. So many people including myself are still recieving mixed batches filled with inconsistancy all over the charts. It amazes me that they where able to fix the dented connectors, they where able to get to get them to fire on all devices, they where able to stop the leaks yet they still have wicks that are placed shoddy, wicks that arent long enough at all, coils that are still to tight, fluids and oils in them STILL and even the ones that have no fluid still have a fluid on the inner plugs somehow and the wick still needs to be dry burned since the cleaning or steaming of the wick obviously didnt do the job. They most likely wont even care as long as they work for them with super thin pg juice then its good enough. The problem with that is that even with their own pg juice some still suck.
Much has been improved yet for every step forward they have taken 2 steps back.
Sifting through 40 e2's to find 10 good ones just aint cutting it anymore and all the promises in the world mean nothing when you cant deliver. I have enough to keep me busy and mod and since i have so many i can always go through a few and find good ones but enough is enough when it comes to the e2, either FIX IT RIGHT OR DONT SELL IT. Your ruining your image, your products name and then your ruining vendors and buyers at the same time.
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I've been vaping a 2.5 ohm 510XL Br bottle mod with ptb and cut wicks on a 5volt box mod for two days , no dry spots and cooler than a filler carto .
As I stated in a post earlier today, I am testing a regular length E2 that has short wicks. I also said that I used one of my old tricks to extend it. I just now vaped my bottle dry a few minutes ago. Not one single drop is in the base.
You can do the same thing with a length of wick from an old E2. Simply make a loop in the center of the old wick with an overhand tie. Pull the loop size until it is almost as small as the ceramic cup. Then put the loop over the cup and down in the area of the metal tube. Now pull the loop closed just enough to gather the bows and their end pieces to about the size of a cartridge tube. After that, cut the wick ends according to their needs. Finish by tucking the two ends down in the base fitting.
You can do the same thing with a length of wick from an old E2. Simply make a loop in the center of the old wick with an overhand tie. Pull the loop size until it is almost as small as the ceramic cup. Then put the loop over the cup and down in the area of the metal tube. Now pull the loop closed just enough to gather the bows and their end pieces to about the size of a cartridge tube. After that, cut the wick ends according to their needs. Finish by tucking the two ends down in the base fitting.
I think if you take everything INSIDE your carto design and flip it Upside Down you would have the Perfect, Filler-Less Cartomizer.
I've had my share of trouble with these things, but at the end of the day I still think they're the best option available in carto land. I have a small supply here that will have to be modded to be used, but my last batch (as well as the original 510's I got months ago) are fine as-is. I'd be in a world of hurt if I had to go back to filler cartos tomorrow.
Just saying...
Just saying...
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