New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
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Or, just get a Blu. With Social Features.
I always get Flamed when I say it.
But of ALL the e-Cigarettes I have owned (and I have owned a vape shop's worth) the Blu has to be the Sexiest e-Cigarette I have ever had.
Perfect Size. Sleek. PCC Pack. Blue Light. Just Perfect.
Now if it only lasted more than about 2 Hours. And held more that 9 Drops of e-liquid.
LOL
Or, just get a Blu. With Social Features.
Hey, I quit with the Blu in two days so I ain'ts knockin' it.
(You just have to have a little imagination.)
Good luck.
zoiDness, I cannot even believe this!!!
2 hours? Wow, dude, you knew how to rock that lil thing. My cigalikes and I spent a whole 45 minutes together.
Hey, I quit with the Blu in two days so I ain'ts knockin' it.
(You just have to have a little imagination.)
Good luck.
I think there's a lot to be said for the sleekness of a device. There are obviously more factors than just nicotine fix or even sensation or flavor that determine whether a person can quit or not. It's different for everyone, but it certainly can't hurt to have a vape setup you find preferable to an analog for any reason, including aesthetics!
Alright I went and pulled the ti out and tried my VTC mini, again. It's just the same as I remember before shelving it. A very weak vape. I'm even using more wattage... Heck I can turn the wattage up all the way and it doesn't help.
Does the VTC mini recognize TI? If it is on a NI setting and you use TI you have have to set the temp about 100 degrees lower than what you would with a NI coil.
Edit: Corrected.
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I thought it was to be set at a lower temp.
Yep. Back when I was running DNA40 with Ti, mid 300s seemed about right. Ti has a lower TCR than Ni, so it's hotter than a mod that's calibrated for Ni thinks it is, thus you have to set it lower.
The stock VTC Mini has a "TI" setting and real time temperature display.
- are the windings "spaced" and not touching? Noncontact coils are recommended when starting out.
- make build and check resistance on screen vs steamengine calculation - is the resistance the same or fairly close?
- wick and prime and recheck resistance of the build - did adding wick short some winding(s) out (lower resistance than before?)
- I like starting at 400F and 25W - without taking a pull hit the fire button and watch the display - did the temperature rise up to 400F within a second or so? If not rise the wattage. If "instant" you may be able to turn the wattage down.
- Adjust temperature to liking - some like a cooler vape others a hotter vape. Depending on the boiling point of your juice changing the temperature will change the amount of vapor output.
This ^^^
One more thought. Make sure your mod reasonably accurately knows the actual temperature of your coil. Once the mod thinks your coil temp has been reached adding more watts won't do anything because the mod is reducing the watts to keep the coil from becoming too hot already.
I like the cotton singe method. Set up the atty and lock the resistance. Put cotton into a dry coil (completely dry cotton is critical) and fire in TC mode with the temp set to say 370 F. Cotton will start to singe a bit at around 410 F. Increase temp set-point in 10 deg steps until you see a bit of a brown singe when you pull the cotton over a bit. If that happens at 390 then you can either try to recalibrate the system or just set 20 deg less than the temp you actually want. If it singes at 460, you'll have to subtract 50 deg from what you set. I suspect you're off a bit in the latter direction.
Good luck with it
Yes…simple, elegant, functional. Didn't hurt Johnson Creek contributed to a remarkably adequate tobacco (now history along with so many thanks to the FDA). Technology is a double-edged sword. Get ready for the all-in-one vapealikes. So says the committee, so say we all.
Good luck.
Lately I'm doing a cotton test every couple of days when I rewick to see if things are staying consistant. So a tip. I find I don't need to pull the cotton into the coil to do the test. I lay one end of of my cottonn strip against the outside of the coil and fiire then look for any sign of color change. (That end is going to be trimed off after the cotton is pulled into the coil.) I do need the coil to be dry burned and clean so the heat isn't just depositing unburned gunk on to the cotton. BTW I'm finding my stainless wire builds are holding their resistance just fine.This ^^^
One more thought. Make sure your mod reasonably accurately knows the actual temperature of your coil. Once the mod thinks your coil temp has been reached adding more watts won't do anything because the mod is reducing the watts to keep the coil from becoming too hot already.
I like the cotton singe method. Set up the atty and lock the resistance. Put cotton into a dry coil (completely dry cotton is critical) and fire in TC mode with the temp set to say 370 F. Cotton will start to singe a bit at around 410 F. Increase temp set-point in 10 deg steps until you see a bit of a brown singe when you pull the cotton over a bit. If that happens at 390 then you can either try to recalibrate the system or just set 20 deg less than the temp you actually want. If it singes at 460, you'll have to subtract 50 deg from what you set. I suspect you're off a bit in the latter direction.
Good luck with it
I ended up trying to wait for "technology to improve" before I bought into the temp control fad and it still didn't help...
Tried many different coils yes perfectly spaced yes perfect wicking the resistance fluctuates when you breathe on the dang ti so I don't think that changes too much.
Singed rayon at 200f still a weak vape all the way past 500f
Can't remember what firmware my VTC mini came with and no way to update it here's a pic of it since I find it useless for much more right now..
Back to it's spot on the shelf it goes, temp control just doesn't work for me. Maybe it will get pulled out again if I decide to play with a VW device but it has proven itself useless for tc in my hands.
Tried many different coils yes perfectly spaced yes perfect wicking the resistance fluctuates when you breathe on the dang ti so I don't think that changes too much.
Singed rayon at 200f still a weak vape all the way past 500f
Can't remember what firmware my VTC mini came with and no way to update it here's a pic of it since I find it useless for much more right now..
Back to it's spot on the shelf it goes, temp control just doesn't work for me. Maybe it will get pulled out again if I decide to play with a VW device but it has proven itself useless for tc in my hands.
Thanks for the tips @sofarsogood, much appreciated
I'm finding SS wire as stable in my atties as Kanthal, I just make sure they are nice and tightly screwed down. It's easy in atties like the Rose and UTA2, a bit more of an effort in the Aqua V2. In that one I find I need to double up and twist the wire ends to make them strong enough so I can clamp them without breaking them ... but I have to do the same with Kanthal in that one so there's really no difference. I think my Kanthal is going to end up soon in the box where I've got some SS mesh and a few pieces of silica wick, just in case I might ever want some one day
Luckily wire is cheap
My current impression is that ever so slightly separating the coils helps with stability but I keep the loops as close together as possible because that seems to improve vapor texture. A month ago I pulled out my N mini for the first time in 2 years and vaped it instead of my usual RDA with stainless build. The Nautilus is very nice, even better now that I can goose up it's low watts with 0.3 seconds of pre heat at 150%. I think at such low watts in a tank kanthal and straight power are sufficient. But I do an RDA everywhere all the time and temp control makes that very conveneint. I also like to rebuild and I'm determined to be self sufficient for the next 10-20 years.Thanks for the tips @sofarsogood, much appreciated
I'm finding SS wire as stable in my atties as Kanthal, I just make sure they are nice and tightly screwed down. It's easy in atties like the Rose and UTA2, a bit more of an effort in the Aqua V2. In that one I find I need to double up and twist the wire ends to make them strong enough so I can clamp them without breaking them ... but I have to do the same with Kanthal in that one so there's really no difference. I think my Kanthal is going to end up soon in the box where I've got some SS mesh and a few pieces of silica wick, just in case I might ever want some one day
Luckily wire is cheap
It's been a while since I vaped an RDA but I used to use them all the time. I mostly used contact coils and after a while I moved to slightly non-contact designs and for a long time I would have agreed totally with you. I'm finding that coil design can depend a lot on the atty used, maybe more so in tanks. One of the more challenging tanks I've worked with lately is the Ubertoot UTA2. Here are a couple of pics of the second to last coil I made for it and this is the first one that got me close to what I was looking for:
I've never built a coil that spaced or that wide before, but I was looking for more TH and was getting frustrated after a whole bunch of failed attempts. Air flow in this atty is through the hole under the coil and making the coil wide enough to get some of it out of direct air flow got me going in the right direction.
This setup has just as much flavor and vapor saturation as my previous best with a design that was much tighter spaced, and was short enough to mostly be covered by the air hole. That formula had been working for me with quite a few atties but it just didn't give me enough TH with this one. The atty is just too smooth a vape for my taste
I guess what I'm trying to say is there few hard and fast rules in this game and what works well for some or most atties might not work so well for all. So for what it's worth, keep experimenting and don't be afraid to get out of your comfort zone
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