New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
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In this scenario, the one question I have, is should I let it "drip" into the beakers, or should I let the wick contact the bottom (or some platform) of the beaker. I suspect the later would transfer more liquid. I guess the question is which represents the physics of an atty better.
Your first round looks really well done. Yes, it is measuring capillary action, which is how juice moves through the wick in normal use. This second test appears to rely on gravity to "feed" the coil and my mind, this setup would run afoul as in our use, juice flow is not controlled by gravity. It's controlled by the evaporation of liquid off the coil being fed by the wick with resultant replacement by capillary action and any pressure change there is between the inside of the chamber and the air in the tank itself.
For a thought experiment, what about this.
A clear box with a divider in the middle. Make holes in the divider and have some sort of sealed in the divider tube in place so it's watertight across, and liquid can only move through the tube. Fill each with whatever wick. One one side, the target side, place something small like disposable cuvette under each wick end.
Now on the tank/juice side fill with your favorite whatever with coloring about halfway up, but not above the wick ends. Place an AIRTIGHT top on it, maybe just have a silicone bead along the top and place the top cover on.
Here's where the fun comes in. Obviously, there's no differential at this point between sides. Now, on the "chamber" side with the little plastic cuvettes have a hole on the back wall to which you have attached a rubber hose. Draw on that hose to create a pressure differential. That reproduces in tank conditions that normally drive flow. Measure how much liquid ends up in each cuvette and you now know the different flow rates all under the same condition. You can do it by a visual comparison, or with an accurate scale measured by weight (already tared for the cuvette)
There will have to be a method for air to eventually equilibrate between the sides, otherwise you'll get a vapor lock. Maybe a small hole in the top of the divider wall with a little flap on the liquid side which will allow air to move between the chamber. Sort of simulated the bubbles you normally see when you vape.
Oh, and as everything has to eventually even out to atmospheric pressure, leave the hose open after your draw to allow air back in to eliminate the differential.
As an added bonus, I probably have a dozen curvettes laying around from my aquarium test kits.
Freshwater or salt? I keep a reef tank going for about 8 years. It was a ton of fun and my daughter loved learning all about the corals, and all the testing, which we did every week. And for a reef tank there are a LOT of tests to run lots more maintenance. Made my freshwater tank a breeze in comparison.
150g African Cichlid tank, with a heavily planted shrimp refugium to remove nitrates, the shrimp are only for interest, they dont contribute to the filtration. I built an automated water changer, changes about 6% of the water every 36 hours, whenever the TDS gets above a certain level.
Sorry for the
Sorry for the
That's sure fully automated. Mine wasn't close. There was stuff like an ATO and a continuous pH probe. I needed both a heater and a chiller if the temp went up too much under the Halogen lighting or too low at "night". Never used a refugium on it although that does work real well. Well, that and a good protein skimmer to keep things clean. Water exchanges were still manual, although I did look into a continuous water exchange system but as long as the chemistry and tank remained stable, it wasn't justified.
They do make really nice Reefkeepr monitors/controllers that can really automate everything, but back then (we're talking 10-15 years going by my daughter's age) they not only less sophisticated, but far more expensive. I believe a salinity probe alone was in the $150 range. It was a lot of fun until it became too time consuming as I was working just to pay for my aquarium habit (sound familiar?), but it did great until I broke it down and made sure my corals and live rock were adopted into caring homes.
They do make really nice Reefkeepr monitors/controllers that can really automate everything, but back then (we're talking 10-15 years going by my daughter's age) they not only less sophisticated, but far more expensive. I believe a salinity probe alone was in the $150 range. It was a lot of fun until it became too time consuming as I was working just to pay for my aquarium habit (sound familiar?), but it did great until I broke it down and made sure my corals and live rock were adopted into caring homes.
I oversized most everything filtration wise, saved me hours upon hours of maintenance. Most months I just need to clean the algae off the glass, and refill the automated fish food feeders. Every 2-3 months I change out all the filter elements.
Never went Salt, was tempted, but I decided never to attempt it unless I had an automated backup generator first. A 6 hour power loss could break your heart, and your bank. I would only need to add a very few things to convert though, the chiller being the most expensive part.
OK, I'll behave now too, just got me excited there for a sec......
Based on how it's currently set up if it's a fish only, all you'd need is a protein skimmer and be sure you have plenty of random water flow. If you went coral or coral/fish which I did (the fish really added to the overhead, but they were cute), a protein skimmer, some extra powerheads for lots of random flow, and maybe a chiller (with that refugium and sump, you likely won't need it, especially based on your lighting choice) and the lighting. The lighting is where it can get expensive, including LEDs, but less than it used to. And with LEDs you're far less likely to spend on the chiller. For reference, when LEDs with the proper spectrum first became available, a decent fixture was ~$700. Then figured out how large an area you needed to illuminate, and going with halogens and a chiller was way easier on the pocket.
Taking care of a Cichlid tank is pretty demanding, so it wouldn't be a big burden to go salt. I kept our original freshwater tank going at the same time as that was our entry into aquariums and my daughter was attached to the fish we had.
OK, no more off topic, I promise.
Best Pratices to avoid high temps on VV/VW mods.
(Draft v2)
Comments are welcome, I will publish this to my blog soon.
PLEASE, if you an addition you deem appropiate, SPEAK UP!
*******************************************************************
Context:
The RCP announcement got widely publicized as meaning that vaping was 95% safer than smoking, however the detail and context of the entire report has not been talked about nearly as much.
From the Royal College of Physicians, 11 St Andrews Place, Regent's Park, London NW1 4LE
"E-cigarettes and long-term harm - the possibility of some harm from long-term e-cigarette use cannot be dismissed due to inhalation of the ingredients other than nicotine, but is likely to be very small, and substantially smaller than that arising from tobacco smoking. With appropriate product standards to minimise exposure to the other ingredients, it should be possible to reduce risks of physical health still further. Although it is not possible to estimate the long-term health risks associated with e-cigarettes precisely, the available data suggest that they are unlikely to exceed 5% of those associated with smoked tobacco products, and may well be substantially lower than this figure."
Please note the part highlighted in green. What they are saying is that there is "probably" more we can do to make vaping even safer!
Also note this statement from the University of Cambridge Cancer Institute:
"We also know that different users use different devices and liquids. So it could be that some are safer or more harmful than others. And people also use the devices in different ways. So further work needs to be done to understand these differences, so that each vaper is using their device as safely as possible."
Now, since the above statements were made, two new studies have come out by Wang and Guiss that suggest that carcinogens (like formaldehyde) start getting produced at high temperatures. I have proven, in some of my other blog posts, that our coils can indeed reach these temperatures quite easily (without being Dry Hits).
IMHO, the best way to avoid high temperatures is to use a TC mod and set the temp below 450f (ish). However, if you dont choose this option for whatever reason, I have attempted to compile a set of "Best Practices" that a VV/VW mod user can employ to help keep their temperatures at lower levels.
"Best Practices"
Using these "Best Practices" will greatly reduce the probability of venturing into the questionable higher temperature ranges.
There are actually about 18 variables that affect coil temperature in a VV/VW mod. A major one is air flow across the coil. Please see this blog for more info if you are interested.
(Draft v2)
Comments are welcome, I will publish this to my blog soon.
PLEASE, if you an addition you deem appropiate, SPEAK UP!
*******************************************************************
Context:
The RCP announcement got widely publicized as meaning that vaping was 95% safer than smoking, however the detail and context of the entire report has not been talked about nearly as much.
From the Royal College of Physicians, 11 St Andrews Place, Regent's Park, London NW1 4LE
"E-cigarettes and long-term harm - the possibility of some harm from long-term e-cigarette use cannot be dismissed due to inhalation of the ingredients other than nicotine, but is likely to be very small, and substantially smaller than that arising from tobacco smoking. With appropriate product standards to minimise exposure to the other ingredients, it should be possible to reduce risks of physical health still further. Although it is not possible to estimate the long-term health risks associated with e-cigarettes precisely, the available data suggest that they are unlikely to exceed 5% of those associated with smoked tobacco products, and may well be substantially lower than this figure."
Please note the part highlighted in green. What they are saying is that there is "probably" more we can do to make vaping even safer!
Also note this statement from the University of Cambridge Cancer Institute:
"We also know that different users use different devices and liquids. So it could be that some are safer or more harmful than others. And people also use the devices in different ways. So further work needs to be done to understand these differences, so that each vaper is using their device as safely as possible."
Now, since the above statements were made, two new studies have come out by Wang and Guiss that suggest that carcinogens (like formaldehyde) start getting produced at high temperatures. I have proven, in some of my other blog posts, that our coils can indeed reach these temperatures quite easily (without being Dry Hits).
IMHO, the best way to avoid high temperatures is to use a TC mod and set the temp below 450f (ish). However, if you dont choose this option for whatever reason, I have attempted to compile a set of "Best Practices" that a VV/VW mod user can employ to help keep their temperatures at lower levels.
"Best Practices"
- Avoid Chain Hitting
- Chain hitting a non TC mod will definitely, and sometimes very significantly increase the coil temperature, regardless of voltage or wattage settings. I have proven this with direct thermocouple measurements. What happens is the coil doesnt get a chance to cool between chain hits, so subsequent hits are already starting with a preheated coil. The more chain hits in a row, the hotter the coil will get each time.
- Diligently replace/clean your coil when they get gunked.
- Gunked coils inhibit heat transfer, and the most common reaction is for a user to increase their power to compensate for the weaker hit, resulting in higher coil temps.
- There is also data that suggests that burning the carbonized junk on a coil gives off its own set of extra nasties.
- Juices with high percentages of flavoring, certain specific flavors (often darker ones), and high levels of sweeteners, are known for gunking coils faster.
- If your hit seems to be getting weaker, check your coil for gunk.
- Gunked coils inhibit heat transfer, and the most common reaction is for a user to increase their power to compensate for the weaker hit, resulting in higher coil temps.
- Ensure good coil saturation via good wicking
- If you starve a coil for juice, the temperature WILL rise on a non-TC mod. The more power hungry your coil, the better your wicking needs to be. Silica is a bad choice for wicking, if you have the option, do select something else.
- Select a lower boiling point juice if you have a "variable" (VV or VW) mod.
- What a lower boiling point juice allows you to do is "lower your settings" to achieve a similarly satisfying hit, which will result in lower temperatures. Lower point liquids include those with lower VG content, or if high VG then diluted with 5-10% of distilled water.
- If using a top coil tank, take a few extra precautions
- Refill when tank is no more than half empty.
- ALWAYS do a swirl to ensure that the exposed wick is fully saturated before every hit.
- Take shorter, even if more frequent, hits.
- The longer the hit the higher the temperature gets, this has been proven via accurate instrumentation.
Using these "Best Practices" will greatly reduce the probability of venturing into the questionable higher temperature ranges.
There are actually about 18 variables that affect coil temperature in a VV/VW mod. A major one is air flow across the coil. Please see this blog for more info if you are interested.
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I was pretty sure it was a mistype, but it could be interpreted as threatening to beat those of us who vape junk.
What about Under Avoid Chain Hitting something like this:
"This is true in both high watt high high airflow use, and low watt low airflow use. Low watt chain vaping can raise coil temperatures as well."
It's another way of communicating that just because you're puffing away at only 8W, you can't assume the coil will stay cool. Or written however it might sound better.
"This is true in both high watt high high airflow use, and low watt low airflow use. Low watt chain vaping can raise coil temperatures as well."
It's another way of communicating that just because you're puffing away at only 8W, you can't assume the coil will stay cool. Or written however it might sound better.
Can I ? PLEASE!!!!I was pretty sure it was a mistype, but it could be interpreted as threatening to beat those of us who vape junk.
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