You were quicker than I was! Well, at least it shows they're trying to get them back in stock. I may order another four when they do show them as in stock.
New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers
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Weekened Mission accomplished, I needed some "me" time. Repaired 3 mods, and built a new one. Weather veered west of the Blue Ridge so I didnt need to concern myself there. This is a DNA60 in an old 3D printed BAP DNA40 print that I never built. This one even talks to Escribe! Runs a TI Clapton coil great at 390F.
Here you go, Homeuser6. All of these build have at east 50 to 100ml through them so they aren't the typical "pristine" coil and wick photos, but you can see the straight forward wick path and, if you look closely, you can see where the SS mesh "straws" contact the wicks.
First up, a V4 with the plastic tank and modified air flow on a hand-built, low tank, DNA40 -
Next, a V4 with the stainless tank and stock air flow -
And last, a V3 with the all stainless tank and modified air flow -
The coils and wicks in all are similar and all show the same depressions where the "straws" contact and feed the coils. There is a locating pin in the coil base with a corresponding notch in the tank section to keep everything solidly aligned.
First up, a V4 with the plastic tank and modified air flow on a hand-built, low tank, DNA40 -
Next, a V4 with the stainless tank and stock air flow -
And last, a V3 with the all stainless tank and modified air flow -
The coils and wicks in all are similar and all show the same depressions where the "straws" contact and feed the coils. There is a locating pin in the coil base with a corresponding notch in the tank section to keep everything solidly aligned.
thank you,awsum. but how does this not flood and pour everything right out the air hole? i'm missing something. i don't see a juice level in the coil area to hold vacuum in the tank.
The tank sits above the coil/base section. It is sealed other than two, small, straw made from 400SS mesh. Ballpark figure, the outside diameter, hole diameter is about .125". It can't pour out because the bottom end of the "straws" sit right against the wick. The only time liquid "flows" is when it's consumed as you vape.
This is the tank side of the atomizer chamber/tank base. This screws into the main tank section. You can see the two "straws" sticking up just a little, and a very tiny center hole in them -
This is the coil/wick side of the atomizer chamber/tank base. You can see the "straws" projecting down to contact the wick. I usually cut them long, install them to touch the wicks and then trim them on the tank side.
This really isn't very different than the way an Aromamizer works. In the case of an Aromamizer the liquid is fed from under the coil/wick area through four small holes. The user has to get wick over those four holes to prevent flooding/leaks. In the case of the FEV it's a little easier since you can see where the straws are, liquid feeders, in relation to the wick. Same basic principal just a different method and, really, the same as any other atomizer.
This is the tank side of the atomizer chamber/tank base. This screws into the main tank section. You can see the two "straws" sticking up just a little, and a very tiny center hole in them -
This is the coil/wick side of the atomizer chamber/tank base. You can see the "straws" projecting down to contact the wick. I usually cut them long, install them to touch the wicks and then trim them on the tank side.
This really isn't very different than the way an Aromamizer works. In the case of an Aromamizer the liquid is fed from under the coil/wick area through four small holes. The user has to get wick over those four holes to prevent flooding/leaks. In the case of the FEV it's a little easier since you can see where the straws are, liquid feeders, in relation to the wick. Same basic principal just a different method and, really, the same as any other atomizer.
It isn't bad. The big trick is learning how to make the straws which isn't much of a trick at all. Just cut a strip of mesh, pull it over a 16 gauge blunt needle to curl it, roll it between your fingers until it's snug and install. After that it's got to be the easiest RBA around. Easy, single, coil install. Easy wick path and no fussy trimming. Fills right out of the bottle. With the all stainless tank section installed, basically indestructible compared to glass tanks. And you don't have to unscrew the atomizer from the mod to fill it, jus pull off the top section, unscrew the atomizer chamber section and pour right out of the bottle, about 5ml capacity or so.
Heck, if I can make them work anyone can.
Heck, if I can make them work anyone can.
the concept of a gravity assist appealed to me initially (and the large deck)
I'm not sure that gravity provides all that much assist with the FEV. Once the liquid starts feeding there's that slight vacuum in the tank that always happens in a properly built system. I think it kind of negates the gravity effect. Under the right conditions it has "vacuum locked" on me, outside, cold weather, full tank, but it's easy to clear simply by inverting it and unscrewing the tank section a few turns.
Another little trick I use with them is to leave enough of a tail on the wick ends to have it contact the deck floor. It only needs a few strands, with rayon, but it prevents condensation from building up on all that vacant real estate. I've never had a leak from one although I don't, normally, lay them sideways but I do tend to carry them horizontally when walking the dog. No leaks, not even a hint of a leak.
Another little trick I use with them is to leave enough of a tail on the wick ends to have it contact the deck floor. It only needs a few strands, with rayon, but it prevents condensation from building up on all that vacant real estate. I've never had a leak from one although I don't, normally, lay them sideways but I do tend to carry them horizontally when walking the dog. No leaks, not even a hint of a leak.
Worth a read:
Evolv-ing Thread
Doesnt surprise me a bit. In fact I have long theorized that BT research would be what ultimately makes vaping a social and politically acceptable harm reduction method. They have the bucks to do it, they have an inside track with a lot of the research they have already done on nicotine etc, and the smart ones do see the writing on the wall, tobacco will be marginalized.
Evolv-ing Thread
Doesnt surprise me a bit. In fact I have long theorized that BT research would be what ultimately makes vaping a social and politically acceptable harm reduction method. They have the bucks to do it, they have an inside track with a lot of the research they have already done on nicotine etc, and the smart ones do see the writing on the wall, tobacco will be marginalized.
Had to chuckle at that last post! You, and Howard, Leonard and Sheldon would have a great time together. (Made me think of Big Bang Theory)
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Thank you for the OP and the discussions. I switched to temp control just the day before reading this information.
My go to is now: 410F, 316SSL, 70%PG all on Dicodes devices. It is a bit different but, enjoyable. Cooler to be sure. However, I like data and found this thread very helpful in determining, for me, what seems safer.
My go to is now: 410F, 316SSL, 70%PG all on Dicodes devices. It is a bit different but, enjoyable. Cooler to be sure. However, I like data and found this thread very helpful in determining, for me, what seems safer.
I've never been interested in anything over 12W. I'm usually at 10W. I'll vape 9W for a while if I've just changed the coil and wick. I've always tried to inhale shallowly or not at all, but that's hard to maintain 100% of the time. I vape DIY 70pg juices, down from the 90PG I used to vape in vendor juices.
Vaping in TC mode set at 10W/400F I'm usually vaping around 350F if I look at the display while pressing the fire button. I'm hoping my mods are showing correct readings.
The last thing I want is dangerous chemicals in something that's saving me from the long list of chemicals in the cigarette smoke I inhaled most of my life before starting to vape about 7 years ago.
Vaping in TC mode set at 10W/400F I'm usually vaping around 350F if I look at the display while pressing the fire button. I'm hoping my mods are showing correct readings.
The last thing I want is dangerous chemicals in something that's saving me from the long list of chemicals in the cigarette smoke I inhaled most of my life before starting to vape about 7 years ago.
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UPDATE:
I havent forgotten about all of this. I have been in maintenance mode, had a new sidewalk poured, cleaning up outside etc, pressure washing decks, etc. Mod repairs, juice making, and such came into play as well. Had to focus on other stuff for a bit. Also, I have a long distance gf that takes me out of town every other week.
I will start focusing on this again this week.
Cheers.........
I havent forgotten about all of this. I have been in maintenance mode, had a new sidewalk poured, cleaning up outside etc, pressure washing decks, etc. Mod repairs, juice making, and such came into play as well. Had to focus on other stuff for a bit. Also, I have a long distance gf that takes me out of town every other week.
I will start focusing on this again this week.
Cheers.........
Those pop up turkey timers. Is there one that actually does its job, or are all of them forcing our birds to be overcooked at 180F?
Mike, all this probe experience could foretell your sweet retirement, living large off TurkeyTC royalties, unless Evolv beats you to it!
I prefer TurkeyTC over BirDNA myself, but we'll need some focus group studies before this imminent project goes too far.
Mike, all this probe experience could foretell your sweet retirement, living large off TurkeyTC royalties, unless Evolv beats you to it!
I prefer TurkeyTC over BirDNA myself, but we'll need some focus group studies before this imminent project goes too far.
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