dcannon Not necessarily a problem if you're aware of it and make changes accordingly said:
New Variable Voltage device from smoktech?
- Thread starter mda71
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
OK, so I've finally been able to watch Phil's video (30 minutes plus) in its entirety. All in all, I think that the VMax has cleared a major hurdle with room to spare.
Before I comment on his review, which I just about 95% agree with (I think the button is just fine), I just want to throw out there that I agree completely with VAP (as usual) about the LR atty with VV thing, especially one like the VMax that appears to be a little bit on the sizzlin' side. Why would you want to use LR attys on a very powerful device? (???) Isn't that a little like running 235/30/20's on a 'Vette? Yes, you can do it - but why? (??). Can't run the same tanks/cartos/whatevers on your VMax as you do on your other PV's? Then spend the big bucks on a few more tanks/cartos/whatevers that you use just with the VMax.
I don't really know why Phil was running LR dual coils on either the ProVari or the VMax. If the VMax really does, for the sake of argument, create a 4.5 volt vape when set to 3 volts, then it's hitting each coil of a dual coil 1.5 carto with 6.75 watts. OK, that's arguably going to be "too high" for some people and/or some juices. Obviously, same argument for a 3.0 ohm single coil.
So what about using a carto that's made for truly high voltage, like this one?:
Smok Tech 4.5 ohm 510 Cartomizer
"These are meant to work with 6 volts or higher. They work great at 6 volts. These will not work satisfactorily on standard 3.7 volt batteries".
Some of the reviews:
"Killer on 6v or 7.4v...........get u some".
"5.0 ohms on 7.4 has been my regular vaping experience since I bought my first high volt battery mod months ago. It's pretty good, but 4.5 gives you that extra kick with *about* the same stability as a 5.0 carto ...".
"These work great for Rough Stack at 7.4V!"
Or this 5.0 ohm single coil:
Tank Replacement Single Coil Cartomizers, 5.0 ohms, Single Hole
Five ohms at the VMax's hypothetical "lowest setting" of 4.5 volts puts 4.05 watts to the coil; the implied hypothetical "highest setting" of the VMax of [the equivalent of] 7.5 volts puts it at 11.25 watts. Something for everyone, no?
Now the "Vette has some nice, sticky 335/25-20's on it and is handling more like it's designed to do.
OK, this is too long, so very quick comments on the video:
Can't turn red LED off = stupid = agree.
Button is a little loose and rattles a little = a hell of a lot better than sticking = don't care/somewhat disagree.
No manual = download it
Too much power = see above
Three digits on display = nice = agree
Build quality is very good = obviously agree
Resets itself to 5V when you change batteries = agree, should have been 3.0, or retain setting if possible (?).
Conclusion of "Thumbs up" = agree.
Before I comment on his review, which I just about 95% agree with (I think the button is just fine), I just want to throw out there that I agree completely with VAP (as usual) about the LR atty with VV thing, especially one like the VMax that appears to be a little bit on the sizzlin' side. Why would you want to use LR attys on a very powerful device? (???) Isn't that a little like running 235/30/20's on a 'Vette? Yes, you can do it - but why? (??). Can't run the same tanks/cartos/whatevers on your VMax as you do on your other PV's? Then spend the big bucks on a few more tanks/cartos/whatevers that you use just with the VMax.
I don't really know why Phil was running LR dual coils on either the ProVari or the VMax. If the VMax really does, for the sake of argument, create a 4.5 volt vape when set to 3 volts, then it's hitting each coil of a dual coil 1.5 carto with 6.75 watts. OK, that's arguably going to be "too high" for some people and/or some juices. Obviously, same argument for a 3.0 ohm single coil.
So what about using a carto that's made for truly high voltage, like this one?:
Smok Tech 4.5 ohm 510 Cartomizer
"These are meant to work with 6 volts or higher. They work great at 6 volts. These will not work satisfactorily on standard 3.7 volt batteries".
Some of the reviews:
"Killer on 6v or 7.4v...........get u some".
"5.0 ohms on 7.4 has been my regular vaping experience since I bought my first high volt battery mod months ago. It's pretty good, but 4.5 gives you that extra kick with *about* the same stability as a 5.0 carto ...".
"These work great for Rough Stack at 7.4V!"
Or this 5.0 ohm single coil:
Tank Replacement Single Coil Cartomizers, 5.0 ohms, Single Hole
Five ohms at the VMax's hypothetical "lowest setting" of 4.5 volts puts 4.05 watts to the coil; the implied hypothetical "highest setting" of the VMax of [the equivalent of] 7.5 volts puts it at 11.25 watts. Something for everyone, no?
Now the "Vette has some nice, sticky 335/25-20's on it and is handling more like it's designed to do.
OK, this is too long, so very quick comments on the video:
Can't turn red LED off = stupid = agree.
Button is a little loose and rattles a little = a hell of a lot better than sticking = don't care/somewhat disagree.
No manual = download it
Too much power = see above
Three digits on display = nice = agree
Build quality is very good = obviously agree
Resets itself to 5V when you change batteries = agree, should have been 3.0, or retain setting if possible (?).
Conclusion of "Thumbs up" = agree.
Last edited:
That is an extreme exaggeration. Having spent more time with my VMax and another PWM device (the bargain basement Varistack) I think the difference is much more like .2~.4 volts, which, IMO isn't worth sweating.
But maybe 3.0v setting is different or something (haven't see PB's vid) and I am running my VMax at 4.7v to a 2.5ohm DC carto tank. On my non PWM mod I'd probably have it set close to 5.0v.
Skip
Last edited:
I can think of at least one that works fine with LR atomizers. It looks a lot like a VMax if you're a fan of the styling...
John D, Thank you for the precis of Phil's review. Still unable to see it. Our household has been anticipating this review for weeks!
Can you get to this:
Taste Your Juice | THE V-MAX BY SMOKTECH
He had to put it just on his own site; something about a YouTube glitch with vids over 30 minutes. It's like 32 minutes, meaning he's just like me; what you just did, or said, or wrote is perfect, so how can you trim anything out of it? lol
Damn double post. How come you can't delete your own damn posts, anyway? What's up with that?
well, i have a chrome lava tube coming in, maybe that will work with LR atomizers.
anyone know if i can do 3.5v on a 1.5 ohm atty on the chrome lava tube? I hear it has an ohm reader now so maybe there are other improvments to.
I make that to be 8 1/3 watts, 2 1/3 amps, so that should be a "go".
dcannon Not necessarily a problem if you're aware of it and make changes accordingly said:
Here's another response that I received from the thread I originally posted my question on regarding low vs high ohm vaping.
By Dusty_D http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...vv-device-battery-recharging.html#post6016195
"Here's the difference..Ohms Law.
Simulating 9Watts overall output.
3.7v set on device. 1.5ohm atty. Output is 9.1W. Power used = 2.45 Amps
5.0v set on device. 2.8ohm atty. Output is 8.9W Power used = 1.78 Amps
The difference in battery longevity is in the amount of Amps that your battery is putting out to produce the end result. Higher Amps, less life. Lower Amps, longer life. Lower Amps also means less HEAT being created causing the flavour to subtly change, if you vape a flavour that subtly changes when vaped at different levels.
There is a difference, however subtle between vaping low ohm/low voltage and high ohm/high voltage"
Figured this might be helpful to some on this thread, I found it so. I'll be buying some low ohm cartos to experiment a little. It seems the amps produced also bear some relevance to the vape experienced despite identical wattage.
By Dusty_D http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...vv-device-battery-recharging.html#post6016195
"Here's the difference..Ohms Law.
Simulating 9Watts overall output.
3.7v set on device. 1.5ohm atty. Output is 9.1W. Power used = 2.45 Amps
5.0v set on device. 2.8ohm atty. Output is 8.9W Power used = 1.78 Amps
The difference in battery longevity is in the amount of Amps that your battery is putting out to produce the end result. Higher Amps, less life. Lower Amps, longer life. Lower Amps also means less HEAT being created causing the flavour to subtly change, if you vape a flavour that subtly changes when vaped at different levels.
There is a difference, however subtle between vaping low ohm/low voltage and high ohm/high voltage"
Figured this might be helpful to some on this thread, I found it so. I'll be buying some low ohm cartos to experiment a little. It seems the amps produced also bear some relevance to the vape experienced despite identical wattage.
It sounds like the device is actually 4-7 volts. Does it actually read 3 volts with a voltage meter, at its lowest setting?
John for some reason my post above did the double post thing too. I posted this last night on the previous page, I wake up this morning to check in and it's posted here also.....what up wit dat ecf, and why cant we delete our own posts,or atleast when something like this happens.
Ok back to discussion, LR cartos and attys are totally different than a Dual Coil carto. Reason : Yes they both may show the same ending resistance but what matters most is HOW THE DEVICE READS THE COILS. A single coil LR 1.5 ohm atty is read by all devices as just that, a single coil 1.5 ohm coil......a Dual Coil 1.5 ohm carto is read as 2, "3" ohm coils, so the device will respond to it as if it is a 3 ohm carto,just with 2 coils. A 2.5 ohm Dual Coil has 2, "5" ohm coils. The 2 coils are ran in parallel which brings the combined ohms of both coils to half of the total number. Examples: 2, 6 ohm coils make a 3ohm DC, 2, 5 ohm coils make a 2.5 ohm DC, 2 , 3 ohm coils make a 1.5 ohm DC.
Now to sum it up, Yes single coil LR attys/cartos were "originally" designed to primarily use on a 3.7 volt device for simulating a 5 volt vaping experience. Can you use them on a V V, yes and people do, to me it defeats the purpose but thats just me, some people prefer a much warmer vape than I do and thats how they would get it. Dual Coils are just read differently on our devices due to the twin coils running in parellel so the ending resistance number should only be thought of as a reference to the actual ohms of the 2 coils inside. Short example for reference : If you use a single coil 3.0 ohm carto at 4.5 volts on your device then you get a DC 1.5 ohm carto and run it at 4.5 volts your basically getting the same experince except that voltage is going to 2 coils not 1. Which in turn will give you twice the heat, twice the vapor, twice the battery draw/drain, and in some cases but not limited to twice the flavor. Point being the device is still registering a 3 ohm load on both setups,but the DC setup has twice the pros and twice the cons. I really hope the analogies help clear up some small misconceptions that maybe some newer vapers may be having and really anyone that had questions. Take care everyone and keep on vaping..... .................J
Ok back to discussion, LR cartos and attys are totally different than a Dual Coil carto. Reason : Yes they both may show the same ending resistance but what matters most is HOW THE DEVICE READS THE COILS. A single coil LR 1.5 ohm atty is read by all devices as just that, a single coil 1.5 ohm coil......a Dual Coil 1.5 ohm carto is read as 2, "3" ohm coils, so the device will respond to it as if it is a 3 ohm carto,just with 2 coils. A 2.5 ohm Dual Coil has 2, "5" ohm coils. The 2 coils are ran in parallel which brings the combined ohms of both coils to half of the total number. Examples: 2, 6 ohm coils make a 3ohm DC, 2, 5 ohm coils make a 2.5 ohm DC, 2 , 3 ohm coils make a 1.5 ohm DC.
Now to sum it up, Yes single coil LR attys/cartos were "originally" designed to primarily use on a 3.7 volt device for simulating a 5 volt vaping experience. Can you use them on a V V, yes and people do, to me it defeats the purpose but thats just me, some people prefer a much warmer vape than I do and thats how they would get it. Dual Coils are just read differently on our devices due to the twin coils running in parellel so the ending resistance number should only be thought of as a reference to the actual ohms of the 2 coils inside. Short example for reference : If you use a single coil 3.0 ohm carto at 4.5 volts on your device then you get a DC 1.5 ohm carto and run it at 4.5 volts your basically getting the same experince except that voltage is going to 2 coils not 1. Which in turn will give you twice the heat, twice the vapor, twice the battery draw/drain, and in some cases but not limited to twice the flavor. Point being the device is still registering a 3 ohm load on both setups,but the DC setup has twice the pros and twice the cons. I really hope the analogies help clear up some small misconceptions that maybe some newer vapers may be having and really anyone that had questions. Take care everyone and keep on vaping..... .................J
Jimi unfortunately a standard inline Vmeter (the Madvapes special) wont work with the VMAX's technology due to the PWM chip. When you try to use those types of meters it just flashes 000 or 888 in a fast blinking motion. The only way I could meter my 2 was with my osciliscope and some other pro devices that are provided for me courtesy of HP. And as far as your question goes....I can really only tell you what I got as an average voltage which was 3.4-3.7 (no load) set at 3V. Now how 3V feels is something entirely different. To me (my opinion after 2 yrs. of vaping) 3V on a 3 ohm Boge XL feels like 3.7-.8V, 3.7V feels like about 4.2-.3. Every other one of my devices, Provari V1&2, LT, Fistpaks Im always at or around 4.3-.5V with 3 ohm single coil, with the VMAX and the same cartos I stay at 3.5 -.8, with a DC 1.5 ohm I keep around 4.2-.4V. Just as I said in one of my previous posts and Im sure I'll say it a hundred more times before it's all said and done,when you 1st get your new VMAX, start at 3V and then go up in .1 increments till you achieve bliss, then ENJOY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TAKE CARE EVERYONE 
Yeah i agree.. I dont have a VV PV yet but im interested in buying one (this one). After seeing that review i thought: So if its running good in about 3V then what is the use of the (much) higher settings? Because the dual coil carto's are my favorite right now.
I know u can use single coil and higher ohms like u said but (and here comes the big noob question) what is the difference if u use a 1.5 ohm dc on 3-3.5 V or a 4.5 ohm on a higher V range in the experience and/or result? (yeah u can laugh) I just dont understand
(ok maybe because i dont own a VV PV) So make me buy one please 
Yeah i agree.. I dont have a VV PV yet but im interested in buying one (this one). After seeing that review i thought: So if its running good in about 3V then what is the use of the (much) higher settings? Because the dual coil carto's are my favorite right now.
I know u can use single coil and higher ohms like u said but (and here comes the big noob question) what is the difference if u use a 1.5 ohm dc on 3-3.5 V or a 4.5 ohm on a higher V range in the experience and/or result? (yeah u can laugh) I just dont understand
Not to worry; I'm pretty sure that one was ever born knowing everything, and that everything is new to everyone at some point. There are a few little wrinkles and "black holes" that 'm still not crystal-clear on myself, thanks in small part to VAP's last post which didn't square 100% with what I thought I understood, but there are some basics to work with:
More watts, warmer coils. Warmer coils, generally more vapor and flavor. Rough range for a decent vape - 6-8 watts per coil, give or take.
Volts times volts divided by ohms (resistance of coil) = watts.
Watts divided by volts = amps.
It gets a little confusing with dual coils. let's see if we can get to a definitive answer later. No time now.
It seems like the VMax has strong power values; it vapes like a beast, and though different from a Provari VV in that sense, and in a good way, how does it compare in other ways?
Like Fit and Feel.... does is function easily, how does it match up with the quality "feel" of a Provari?
The "F's"... fit, feel, form, function
Like Fit and Feel.... does is function easily, how does it match up with the quality "feel" of a Provari?
The "F's"... fit, feel, form, function
- Status
Similar threads
