Noisy cricket.

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Johan55

Full Member
Jun 8, 2015
67
50
I found the post that I was thinking of, on another forum so hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes or quoting out of place here. But there is a lot of contradicting information on the NC so trying to get enough information to avoid blowing my face off lol.

"Anybody else wish the button was juice proof? On one hand, the button placement is convenient and ergonomic... ...while on the other hand, it is right next to the atty, which means spatter from the air holes gets spitback shot right up into it if the atty has that orientation when it's tightened-down to a secure position. They just happen to sit with the button right in the spray radius. In terms of comfort and ease of use, it is the best possible placement, but in terms of safety, performance, and maintence... ...possibly the worst possible placement for a semi-open button assembly.

See, I occasionally will be out somewhere and have problems with arching in the button from the juice getting up inside of it. It's like a little rice crispies factory in there. I can feel the power fluctuating when I hit it and even see the coils trembling quite a lot when I pulse.

It's problematic that this button, which is specifically designed not to arc under double voltage, arcs wildly, albeit for reasons than Jaybo and the guys who used to make the SMPL anticipated. So far it hasn't blown me up or damaged my batteries as far as I can tell, but this type of thing is worrisome. Fortunately, I have two crickets so I always carry a clean button. But the design flaw is nonetheless there. But hey, the polymer material does prevent not only that part, but the metal parts of the button assembly from heating up. So there's that.

Some people may not realize that they're potentially in danger when their mod suddenly isn't hitting right. I didn't hear the arcing at first. I thought it was a hair inside of the mod (which actually happens more often than I can wrap my head around.)


Anyone else experienced this?
 

Swamprats

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 6, 2014
86
159
Alabama, USA
the button only work when pushing hard on one corner of the button.
I think I am with you on this, but I have no build up and have no fires all the time. I think the bottom of the button is the so large that when it makes contact it's hitting the wrapping of the battery. So when I push on the corner of the button it kind of shifts over enough to make contact. im not sure if it's the right thing to do, but when I back the button off a little loser it seems to solve the problem
 

HeiSINberg

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Verified Member
Nov 6, 2013
2,206
2,478
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Groveville, NJ
I found the post that I was thinking of, on another forum so hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes or quoting out of place here. But there is a lot of contradicting information on the NC so trying to get enough information to avoid blowing my face off lol.

"Anybody else wish the button was juice proof? On one hand, the button placement is convenient and ergonomic... ...while on the other hand, it is right next to the atty, which means spatter from the air holes gets spitback shot right up into it if the atty has that orientation when it's tightened-down to a secure position. They just happen to sit with the button right in the spray radius. In terms of comfort and ease of use, it is the best possible placement, but in terms of safety, performance, and maintence... ...possibly the worst possible placement for a semi-open button assembly.

See, I occasionally will be out somewhere and have problems with arching in the button from the juice getting up inside of it. It's like a little rice crispies factory in there. I can feel the power fluctuating when I hit it and even see the coils trembling quite a lot when I pulse.

It's problematic that this button, which is specifically designed not to arc under double voltage, arcs wildly, albeit for reasons than Jaybo and the guys who used to make the SMPL anticipated. So far it hasn't blown me up or damaged my batteries as far as I can tell, but this type of thing is worrisome. Fortunately, I have two crickets so I always carry a clean button. But the design flaw is nonetheless there. But hey, the polymer material does prevent not only that part, but the metal parts of the button assembly from heating up. So there's that.

Some people may not realize that they're potentially in danger when their mod suddenly isn't hitting right. I didn't hear the arcing at first. I thought it was a hair inside of the mod (which actually happens more often than I can wrap my head around.)


Anyone else experienced this?
Mine does this when I have side air flow rda's but I normally use top air flow now with my noisy crickets so that helps a bit. Sometimes mine was mostly condensation as well. On another note my batteries and the contacts have had pitting and arching basically since day one. But it still works and I still use it but it was the first thing that I noticed about these mods.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 

Smellybelly

Senior Member
Sep 29, 2015
175
93
37
noisy cricke only for 20 bucks ! :w00t: I thought my reseller vaporvaping.com always offer me the cheapest price ,they ship from USA that's the only reason i order from them , but they sell noisy cricke for 30USD ! Which site did you order from ? @Smellybelly
Hey sorry for the late reply. I believe it was cvapor.com I ordered from. This was around the time it was first released so the price may have gone up. There was also a coupon too I think it was gree18off or something but I doubt it's still effective
 

r055co

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 24, 2015
1,948
5,797
Seattle
I found the post that I was thinking of, on another forum so hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes or quoting out of place here. But there is a lot of contradicting information on the NC so trying to get enough information to avoid blowing my face off lol.

"Anybody else wish the button was juice proof? On one hand, the button placement is convenient and ergonomic... ...while on the other hand, it is right next to the atty, which means spatter from the air holes gets spitback shot right up into it if the atty has that orientation when it's tightened-down to a secure position. They just happen to sit with the button right in the spray radius. In terms of comfort and ease of use, it is the best possible placement, but in terms of safety, performance, and maintence... ...possibly the worst possible placement for a semi-open button assembly.

See, I occasionally will be out somewhere and have problems with arching in the button from the juice getting up inside of it. It's like a little rice crispies factory in there. I can feel the power fluctuating when I hit it and even see the coils trembling quite a lot when I pulse.

It's problematic that this button, which is specifically designed not to arc under double voltage, arcs wildly, albeit for reasons than Jaybo and the guys who used to make the SMPL anticipated. So far it hasn't blown me up or damaged my batteries as far as I can tell, but this type of thing is worrisome. Fortunately, I have two crickets so I always carry a clean button. But the design flaw is nonetheless there. But hey, the polymer material does prevent not only that part, but the metal parts of the button assembly from heating up. So there's that.

Some people may not realize that they're potentially in danger when their mod suddenly isn't hitting right. I didn't hear the arcing at first. I thought it was a hair inside of the mod (which actually happens more often than I can wrap my head around.)


Anyone else experienced this?
Nope, but I also break it down for a good cleaning every week and I have two.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

silvertorch

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 4, 2014
116
149
Chicago
I found the post that I was thinking of, on another forum so hope I'm not stepping on anyones toes or quoting out of place here. But there is a lot of contradicting information on the NC so trying to get enough information to avoid blowing my face off lol.

"Anybody else wish the button was juice proof? On one hand, the button placement is convenient and ergonomic... ...while on the other hand, it is right next to the atty, which means spatter from the air holes gets spitback shot right up into it if the atty has that orientation when it's tightened-down to a secure position. They just happen to sit with the button right in the spray radius. In terms of comfort and ease of use, it is the best possible placement, but in terms of safety, performance, and maintence... ...possibly the worst possible placement for a semi-open button assembly.

See, I occasionally will be out somewhere and have problems with arching in the button from the juice getting up inside of it. It's like a little rice crispies factory in there. I can feel the power fluctuating when I hit it and even see the coils trembling quite a lot when I pulse.

It's problematic that this button, which is specifically designed not to arc under double voltage, arcs wildly, albeit for reasons than Jaybo and the guys who used to make the SMPL anticipated. So far it hasn't blown me up or damaged my batteries as far as I can tell, but this type of thing is worrisome. Fortunately, I have two crickets so I always carry a clean button. But the design flaw is nonetheless there. But hey, the polymer material does prevent not only that part, but the metal parts of the button assembly from heating up. So there's that.

Some people may not realize that they're potentially in danger when their mod suddenly isn't hitting right. I didn't hear the arcing at first. I thought it was a hair inside of the mod (which actually happens more often than I can wrap my head around.)


Anyone else experienced this?

"Juice" is not causing pitting on the contacts or the batteries. E-liquid is a non conductive liquid. Pitting is something that happens all of the time when using mech mods at sub ohm power levels.
 

Johan55

Full Member
Jun 8, 2015
67
50
Good point. Wonder what is causing this excessive arcing when his switch is wet?
Got my NC in the mail this morning, well done VapeNW. Ordered on Monday. They charge 5 bucks for shipping but I'll gladly pay that for that kind of service.
As to the NC, I think my other mods are going to be collecting dust. I think this is really what I've been striving for in the search for a satisfying vape. With fused claptons using kanthal, and also stainless steel, think I have hit my happy spot.....for now :)
 

Live4Vaping

Reviewer / Blogger
Jan 29, 2016
33
41
The way that I put it together I put the button on first, allowing me to use my thumb to tighten it down instead of a penny. Then I screw the rda with the gold piece on it into the Noisy Cricket. That way its the part that tightens down not the button.
I have been using my NC the last couple of days and have been really impressed with it. Currently have a Phenotype L with a .75 build (too high really) and have been impressed with how solid it feels.

Only issue I see so far is the slot on the delrin button which I see wearing out through screwing on rather quickly.


Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
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Majistir

New Member
Mar 8, 2016
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2
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An FYI for anyone who has buildup on your batteries, grab an eraser and polish the battery contacts. Cleans them up real easy without scratching them (creating more problems down the road). Also, if you keep up on the maintenance the threads can be cleaned easily by running a toothbrush or pipe cleaner through the threads.

Also, I would be real careful if you tighten the switch before the atty. The rocker in the bottom will be pushing the battery up and if you tighten the atty TOO tight it could bend the battery contact and maybe even the rocker. I do the atty first but I don't see my button lasting too long. In the two weeks I've had the NC, the plastic switch is showing wear.

My biggest problem with the NC and indestructible combo is the juice or condensation that somehow makes its way down my 510 leaving no trace and sits on top of my + connection. I mean no trace... bottom of atty is dry, same with the hybrid adapter and threading. I do get condensation from the AFC from time to time though.
When my tsunami RDA arrives I'm going to try a washer between the atty and adapter to see if that will keep the condensation from building up.
 
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