I don't know development history of 808, but I know the reality. In my 6-7 weeks on 808 I've tried cartos from 4 different suppliers and none of them were below 3ohm. When I was asking around and looking for lover resistance, no one could help me with that.
Again, currently "...there are only 2 types of 808 cartmizers: about 3.1ohm (turbo/wow) and 3.8ohm (premium). "
sorry... first there were the standards which were/are 3.0Ω...then there were the premiums at 2.5Ω...then the coolcarts at 3.5Ω...
coolcarts are made by boge and are the same as turbos and a couple different other names depending on the site you get them from...
the e2 cartos have been arund about as long as you've been vaping...they're in their third revision and a workable product the company worked with listening to what people around here wanted and available in at least 2 different resistances...
and now they're down to 2.0Ω as low resistance...
problem is/was that any of them lower than 3.0Ω and the burning filler problem became more and more evident..
Actually standard (Joye) is closer to 3.0ohm.
2.2ohm is LR and possibly can't be standard.
wrong....standard joye atties are 2.2Ω....the knock offs like slb, etc are 3.5
and remember that the tolerance of ALL atties and cartos are +/- .3Ω
Bottom line:
You may have your own reasons to advertise and like KR-808D-1 but let's talk about facts:
1. Talking to noobs about voltage difference is completely unfair and misleading! You are not comparing apples to apples. They think (as I did) that with 3.2V they can't get enough vapor and TH and that's complete BS.
Thanks to this kind of misleading advises I spent extra $250 on experiments with 808 and kept smoking analogs while looking for answer in 808s.
2. There are lots of people who started with 808 (regular noobs mistake: look like a real cig) and moved to 510 because they couldn't get what they need with 808s: good battery life and wide choice of different attys/cartos.
How many people you know who moved from Ego to 808?
this I'm not arguing at all I started with a 510....tried the KR8 in several configurations and didn't like it....I'm not fan at all....but yes misinformation IS a problem and rampant..like even the statement in this thread that the 510 has been around longer and that's why more people use it....both have been around equally as long
Yea, trust me guys, Ohm's law isn't news to me... The question was more along the lines of how the mechanical/electrical differences EQUATE in terms of vaping. Quite handy with a Fluke and an iron.
btw, I ordered the 808 this morning... Tried to get Backwoods' Menthol, but their site is using VirtueMart and it doesn't want to give me the Payment step. Oh well. I'll try later.
well you can look at the numbers for wattage etc and get kinda an idea of the difference...but really it'll all come down to personal preference, taste, even the juice you'll be using...I've owned both got the KR808 second and couldn't stand it...
ow I save cartos for high voltage exclusively because they're cheaper and more disposeable to burn out and replace
the auto batteries started out being better (they were vacume activated) vs sound activated.....but now some suppliers have moved to sound activated bateries (V4L) so they're just as sensitive on their new batteries...
for me on the manuals the battery feels cheaper and more plasticy and I hate the button...
then you've got the colored cartos and colored batteries...the combinations just look too toylike for me...
juice wise some do better on a hotter atty (tobacco, coffee, menthol) and some better on a cooler atty (fruits and delicate flavors)
(example, I have a tiramisu that's fantastic on the 510 but if I put it into a KR8 turbo carto...well...it kinda tastes like vomitus (you know that taste when you burp and kinda get that acid or vomit taste in your mouth...yeah that)
also the KR8 just doesn't produce enough visible vapor for my liking....and for me that visible vapor on exhale was key for me in quitting...
Like me! i dont want a huge pv! and 510 auto batts are way too touchy from the video i have seen. like i said before everyone is different!
they are touchy yes...
but the new crop of KR8 auto batteries are just as touchy...
before they were vacume activated (which did present it's own problems like being able to be set off with a magnetic field, or by covering the led "ash" cap or completely killed by dropping them or killed by getting juice into them causing the switch to stick)
now that at least V4L has changed their autos to sound activation they're prone to the same issues as the 510 autos
I've heard of the E2, but what are XLR and XHR ? Are they LR ? Where to get? thanks
It seems to be evening up between the 510 and the KR8 since they both use cartomizers. And both have the 3 piece option as well. I'm experimenting with 510 cartomizers now and they don't really seem any less "toylike" than the KR8 cartos. Obviously the LR 510 perform differently and I'm wondering when KR8 LR will be available.
I've never tried the 510 batteries so can't comment on them. I have had good luck with my KR8 batteries though. Only 1 out of the 8 I've gotten has an intermittent button issue, but it's still usable. The others are all still rockin.
sorry I meant LV (low voltage), HV (high voltage), and VHV (very high voltage) from cloud9 vaping (they have a subforum here)
but you can get cartos down to 2.0Ω ...fairly easy to find.. litecig has them for example
I don't have a problem with "higher voltage".
3.7V vs 3.2V is not a higher voltage, what considered a higher voltage starts from 5V and goes over 7V.
I have a problem, when people having fun misleading noobs using "voltage" card to steer them in some direction.
I'm still waiting for "...many resistence combinations as the 510." for 808.
Can you stand behind your words or its just usual blah blah blah?
yeah voltage is kinda a misleading term...it should be wattage.... a LR atty at 3.7V can produce the same wattage as 5V....we SHOULD be talking in terms of wattage rather than voltage...but it started off as talking of V bcause we didn't have the option of different resistances...the only variable to change was the voltage and then we only had 3.7V, 5V, 6V, and 7.4V
According to your sig you started with V4L.. so here it is
Regular blanks - 3.0 ohm
WoW Blanks - 2.8ohm
Premium Coolcarts - 3.3ohm
Eastmall, Vapornine and a few other places are selling the "eGo type" batteries for Kr808
it should be noted that all the eGo type batteries..even the ones with a 901 or 808 native connection are the lower 3.2V
When u buy LR stuff, most of the places worn you not to use LR attys/cartos on less than 450mah batteries.
and only one warns you about using them on an eGo battery
Really? Why? It does seem to use up the battery life and juice quicker, but isn't that to be expected?
I got mine from Madvapes and don't see a warning regarding battery mah there. Can you link to one that does. I'd like to check this out. I've been using the LR 510 cartos sparingly the last few days on about 2-3 different batteries. So far so good.
EDIT: I see litecig has the 450 mah recommendation. I wonder if that's due to how it eats battery life.
it's due to more than that but that's included...it eats battery life yes...but it also quickly kills the # of times a battery can be charged as well because they overstress the battery...then again so do standard atties or cartos the LR atties just overstress them that much more significantly...
let's put it ths way a 1.5Ω LR atty at 3.7V has an amp draw of 2.47A (2.13A at 3.2V)....a standard 510 atty (2.2Ω) has an amp draw of 1.68A (1.45A at 3.2V).....a "turbo" carto has an amp draw of 1.06A
comparatively battery wise at best an eGo battery has a .9A max drain rate for the 900mAh version... .65A for the 650mAh version
KR8 has a .38 max drain rate on the XL version...
obviously if an atty is calling for 2.13A and at best you can supply .9A max...the battery is gonna run fult tilt and be overstressed causing it to build up deposits in the battery over time and cost overall capacity and # of charges...
additinally because the battery cant keep up the amp draw has to be adjusted down to the max the battery can give and since the resistance is fixed you get voltage sag (the voltage drops to drop the amp draw).... on some batteries the voltage has to drop so far that it's at or very near the low voltage cut off for the battery....
in all honesty running a LR atty on anything but a high drain 14500, high drain 16340, or a 18650 is a waiting game...you aint going to get it's full capability and you're slowly killing your battery
and additionally the protection circuitry in the eGo type batteries (and 510 for that matter) is kinda crap frankly....so an atty short that causes the resistance to drop quickly below about 1.4Ω tends to fry them...
LOL yea, maybe my question wasn't a very good one since people apparently have quiet varied tastes regarding the model of PV.
it's an excellent question...yes people have varied tastes and preferences when it comes to their PV... and it goes a long way to understanding why people make the choices they do...
I know what my needs and wants are and have adjusted my equipment to provide for the most trouble free and satisfying vape for me...other's wants and needs may be different...