ok, maybe its time to start making some of the parts. But I think that there is no reason to make reffiling caps when Ithaka's 2 caps fit on Ody. So better to make the short tank and the 510 base. Also rebuildable parts
Odysseus official
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i like the Odysseus caps sooooo much better. Easier to refill with no fear of air pressure leaks. Plus it gives the Odysseus that unique look.
I stopped iusing the Ithaka caps because I had to take the time to slowly screw it on or Id lose juice down the center pin.
Doesnt do it all the time. Im just impatient.
Plus i got tired of everyone thinking it was a clone.
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I stopped iusing the Ithaka caps because I had to take the time to slowly screw it on or Id lose juice down the center pin.
Doesnt do it all the time. Im just impatient.
Plus i got tired of everyone thinking it was a clone.
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Please make the top cap. Ya know, I have a few of the mouth piece nuts but no top caps.
I think it will be better if there's a list of GG items been reproduce
So many of us can go through the list and tick what we really short of or need to replace.....
i think i have a long list .............
So many of us can go through the list and tick what we really short of or need to replace.....
i think i have a long list .............
How about a cap more like the Penelope V2 with notches cut in it so air has a place to escape untill the o-ring makes contact?
Its just not the signature look for Odysseus. THe new caps are nice looking, but the original style just looks unique, no one has done it right, even the clones dont look like the original 4 notched " gear " look. I know they are heavier and probably more expensive to make, and probably take more time to make and finish.
Ithaka caps are more expensive and easier to build them on Ody but I see that you always prefere unique pieces. Ok, I will start making those pieces via preorders only
IIRC origional was 2 notches just saying lol.
I completely understand what you mean though. For looks I can see why people would prefer the origional style. Personally I prefer the refilling style of the Ithaka over Ody. Oddly enough I never get gurgling on my Ithaka when I refill and I have to be super carefull on the Ody using an exact precise filling method including removing the o-ring from the cap and the 2 caps and screwing the top cap on slowly to stop the flooding. Although my mouthpiece does sit slightly to one side on my Ody so maybe it doesn't close completely?
Imeo I probably don't need to even ask as knowing you you always bring your new innovations forward into the next generation of stuff but I am hoping/guessing that your like to my previous post means that going forward Ithaka top caps will have the slotted feature of the Penelope V2 to prevent flooding when filling?
Ithaka caps works much better, thats why I made them fright, you are right. But some friends like older technology for some reason. Its ok, I can do that for them
sure fright. If I make new Ithaka caps, they will be like Penelope's. I do that all the time. When I make something new, I apply its new innovations to every GG construction that is compatible. I did it on Stealth when I first made new venting caps for GGTS, I did it on Penelope when I first made Ithaka, I did it on GGTB when I forst made new connector for GGTS etc. So when I made Ithaka, I asked people to buy its new caps for their Ody because they were better and thats why I made Ithaka compatible with Ody. I thought that people would want the new things and not the older ones.
I could easily understand the collectors... but no the regular vapers. 
I Have an OdyV1, an Ody long mode, an OdyV2 and sure I want them to have the original parts.
But as a all day user, I prefer the Ithaka's parts for my Ody.
Don't shoot me guys... please
I Have an OdyV1, an Ody long mode, an OdyV2 and sure I want them to have the original parts.
But as a all day user, I prefer the Ithaka's parts for my Ody.
Don't shoot me guys... please
Thought I'd add to the ody thread. So after getting some more builds where the wandering ohms would creep up, and after trying to wrap the negative wire around the wick in the channel without success, I found bishop heals video again where he grounds out the negative wire on the ody.
I first tried with a plastic piece between the rebuildable part and the plastic piece, with one wrap of the wire between the plastic and the housing, but this lead to the base not sitting straight plus it shorted out.
I then replaced the plastic piece with an oring. This solved the post staying straight, since the oring will give, but it still shorted. So this is where I learned as another poster had stated before that the negative wire can not touch the center post.
This last time when I secured the negative wire between the oring and rebuildable part I made sure just to pull straight to one side so the oring catches it and not make a complete circle. At first it was still shorted till I adjusted it some and then it was perfect.
Seeing what I have to do now it adds maybe a couple minutes to the build, and will be well worth it since my builds usually last me quite awhile.
TLDR: Securing the negative wire works after some experimenting.
Also, as for extra ody parts the stainless steel tank and the extension piece, the longer one that replaces the short tank on ody, would be great. I agree the ithaka caps work, and I think look, a lot better on ody, refilling is a breeze. My ody v1 and v2 small and large top caps just sit.
I first tried with a plastic piece between the rebuildable part and the plastic piece, with one wrap of the wire between the plastic and the housing, but this lead to the base not sitting straight plus it shorted out.
I then replaced the plastic piece with an oring. This solved the post staying straight, since the oring will give, but it still shorted. So this is where I learned as another poster had stated before that the negative wire can not touch the center post.
This last time when I secured the negative wire between the oring and rebuildable part I made sure just to pull straight to one side so the oring catches it and not make a complete circle. At first it was still shorted till I adjusted it some and then it was perfect.
Seeing what I have to do now it adds maybe a couple minutes to the build, and will be well worth it since my builds usually last me quite awhile.
TLDR: Securing the negative wire works after some experimenting.
Also, as for extra ody parts the stainless steel tank and the extension piece, the longer one that replaces the short tank on ody, would be great. I agree the ithaka caps work, and I think look, a lot better on ody, refilling is a breeze. My ody v1 and v2 small and large top caps just sit.
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Sorry if this has been covered - it's a very long thread, and search capability are minimal. Is anyone having flooding issues with Ody and the 510 base? I'm getting flooding through the 510 connector holes, into the positive pin area of the battery tube.
I built it with a 9-wrap micro coil, 1/16" ID, 26g nichrome @ 0.6Ω, and no NR leads. Works fantastically well, but periodically it will flood as described. I have to remove the atty, blow the excess liquid out the bottom until it stops (wasting a bit of fluid). It will then work perfectly for a while, but then it will flood again.
Any help would be massively appreciated. I love this atty, but it's really a nuisance to have to clear it in this way.
It looks perfect on the Chi You, especially with the flat top cap. It floods more with that, though, presumably because it can't breathe. I use the regular cap for the Ody, and it's much better, but still floods occasionally.
I built it with a 9-wrap micro coil, 1/16" ID, 26g nichrome @ 0.6Ω, and no NR leads. Works fantastically well, but periodically it will flood as described. I have to remove the atty, blow the excess liquid out the bottom until it stops (wasting a bit of fluid). It will then work perfectly for a while, but then it will flood again.
Any help would be massively appreciated. I love this atty, but it's really a nuisance to have to clear it in this way.
It looks perfect on the Chi You, especially with the flat top cap. It floods more with that, though, presumably because it can't breathe. I use the regular cap for the Ody, and it's much better, but still floods occasionally.
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Im sorry to hear you are having problems. A few things could be causing the problems, but first if you can answer a few questions, some will sound silly, but I dont want to assume you know everything, nor do I want you to think you are not knowledgeable.
First, what percentage of juice do you use, and what size silica are you using. Next are you cutting the end of the silica right above the last little oring at the bottom of the rebuildable unit. Second make sure all orings are in place and not dry , cracked or worn. If you need orings, PM me, I can get you all of them.
One of the most important orings sits right under the nut that holds the center pin which makes me think either you are missing, or using the wrong size or its worn.
Next , are you sure you dont have the juice control open or loose. The stainless steel little ring that sits between the mouthpiece and the ceramic holder might not be tight and as you turn the mouth piece its turning that also and allowing juice to get in.
If your juice is thin and you are not using thick enough silica, it might be allowing too much juice to get in.'
I think I covered most of the usual suspects. Let us know. I rarely get leaking unless I put it together in a hurry and dont tighten the ring, or forget to put the orings in their place.
First, what percentage of juice do you use, and what size silica are you using. Next are you cutting the end of the silica right above the last little oring at the bottom of the rebuildable unit. Second make sure all orings are in place and not dry , cracked or worn. If you need orings, PM me, I can get you all of them.
One of the most important orings sits right under the nut that holds the center pin which makes me think either you are missing, or using the wrong size or its worn.
Next , are you sure you dont have the juice control open or loose. The stainless steel little ring that sits between the mouthpiece and the ceramic holder might not be tight and as you turn the mouth piece its turning that also and allowing juice to get in.
If your juice is thin and you are not using thick enough silica, it might be allowing too much juice to get in.'
I think I covered most of the usual suspects. Let us know. I rarely get leaking unless I put it together in a hurry and dont tighten the ring, or forget to put the orings in their place.
All of my juices are 50/50. I use cotton wicks that are 1/16" in diameter - they probably expand a little bigger when saturated. I cut the wick ends so that they just touch the mouth of the grooves where the leads are. I don't run them into the grooves. It's really good to know you can provide o-rings! Thanks for that, and for this very thoughtful reply.
I will examine this o-ring.
I have been running with the juice control completely closed. With the things you have mentioned, this may be another indicator that it might be the o-ring under the center pin nut. Perhaps it should have seemed odd to me that I was still getting juice with the control completely closed!
I don't think the wick is too thin, but I suppose that's possible, as well.
Thanks again for your thoughtful reply! I'll let you know what I find.
Again, if you need orings, contact me. When you think about it, most Odysseus's have been around for almost 2 years now and it is possible that certain orings might be worn out, the one under the nut gets put through the most wear and tear and is the most important regarding keeping the juice from going down the center pin.
Believe me I have actually forgotten to put it back in after cleaning, and another important little part is the one in between the ceramic housing and the positive nut. You can either use a small oring or a plastic gasket. Only one of mine came with the gasket, they had worn orings. Once I replaced them the plastic that helped with any minor sweating or light leaks. I dont have extras of the plastic, but if you really need one , I can send you a lightly used one.
HINT HINT, we need some Ody parts
Believe me I have actually forgotten to put it back in after cleaning, and another important little part is the one in between the ceramic housing and the positive nut. You can either use a small oring or a plastic gasket. Only one of mine came with the gasket, they had worn orings. Once I replaced them the plastic that helped with any minor sweating or light leaks. I dont have extras of the plastic, but if you really need one , I can send you a lightly used one.
HINT HINT, we need some Ody parts
Even with Silica I had some seepage when I didn't put wick in the channels. With Cotton I would think it would be even worse. I would advise running wicks down the channels.
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