I already tried wick my squape like image, but I always get leaks :/
Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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The only times I have ever had leaks with the W deck was because I didn't have enough Cotton. As long as the wicks fill the top (horizontal) channels and go flush to the edge of the deck there should be no leaking.
Are you able to snap a pick of your build?
The cotton is parallel to the channels, is not going down. I've already tried wicking like this, but I've always had dry hits. Will try again this time. What you think?
The cotton is parallel to the channels, is not going down. I've already tried wicking like this, but I've always had dry hits. Will try again this time. What you think?
That looks pretty good to me
You've said both dry hits and leaks, but just want to confirm which are you getting for the W deck?
Also what is the viscosity of your juice? Is it high VG?
Or I get dry hits, or leaks. I usually use fiber freaks (cellucotton) or cotton bacon, but this time I used KGD, let's see if it gets better. I only use 50/50 liquids!
When I wick my Squape I use a 50/50 blend Ejuice and run some cotton down those grooves and have never gotten a dry hit or leaking. Will post pics in the next day. I use ... cotton pads. When I place my cotton in the coil I trim it at the top and fluff it a bit and leave thin cotton going down the channel.
D...your wick is not tucked into the channels which could cause the wick to move when u screw it in. Tuck the sides of the into the channels. As for dry hits, you need to ensure the suction or vacuum remains. When you screw the base in, hold your finger over the air hole before turning right way up. Keep your finger in place and take some empty draws on the tank. I had the wick leak on me and dry hits but found that the little quirks easy to fix. After awhile the issues went away.
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What wattage are you hitting it with? Are you using the biggest air hole? I've never been able to get my squape to keep up with more than 17-18 watts. With the more open air hole there is less pressure difference and less juice is drawn up to the wick when you hit it. The B deck is no better for me, those four holes are tiny.
Like you I would trim and trim the wick to try to get better wicking and then it would flood and leak. I think that's just the way it is...
The cotton is parallel to the channels, is not going down. I've already tried wicking like this, but I've always had dry hits. Will try again this time. What you think?[/QUOTE]
Like you I would trim and trim the wick to try to get better wicking and then it would flood and leak. I think that's just the way it is...
The cotton is parallel to the channels, is not going down. I've already tried wicking like this, but I've always had dry hits. Will try again this time. What you think?
The cotton is parallel to the channels, is not going down. I've already tried wicking like this, but I've always had dry hits. Will try again this time. What you think?[/QUOTE]
That wicking looks spot on to me. You could gently blow on the wick ends before priming them to fluff them back up after trimming but overall I don't think that build would leak.
If it's still giving dry/burnt hits the first thing I would check is that the resistance is not wandering by pulsing the mod and watching the resistance - preferably on a mod that reads to the 100th.
100% agree for the W deck. If everything was perfect I could push the W deck to 20/21W.
If it's still giving dry/burnt hits the first thing I would check is that the resistance is not wandering by pulsing the mod and watching the resistance - preferably on a mod that reads to the 100th.
100% agree for the W deck. If everything was perfect I could push the W deck to 20/21W.
I've pretty much been using nothing but the W. Got the B when it came out, but got leaked for me when sitting on its side. Could've spent more time getting it to work but since I don't have any issues with the W I went back.
I use 8 wraps of tempered Ni200 0.30mm (28/29AWG) @ 0.12-0.13Ω & I pretty much always vape at 17.5 W or J.
I haven't had any problems wicking with it (dry or leaking) after a year or two of using the W. I cut the cotton flush with the ends of the channels, juice it, then use a super small flat head screwdriver or pick to prod the wick down into the lower channel which usually reaches just about to the bottom. I used to try to keep it as fluffy as possible, but I don't bother with that anymore, I almost gently tuck it in. I never roll the cotton like they do in some vids. I pull a chunk I think is the right thickness off, keep it fluffy and twist only one end to thread the coil and cut that compressed end off.
Sounds like you're either using too much or too little cotton in your wick so rewick with more or less until it works better. The only time I get dry hits is when the tank is dry (& even then I don't get dry hits because I use temp control). Only time I get flooding is when I over-fill the tank and it spills onto the inner bell chamber piece. I fix this by switch to one of the 2 largest holes and vape lightly for a bit.
If it floods (leaks), temporarily switch to the biggest air setting and draw lightly for a bit to vape off excess fluid. In extreme cases, unscrew the tank and use paper towel to dry off the inside of the bell/chamber. Flooding can also be caused by vaping using too small of an air intake hole &/or drawing too hard on it while you vape causing an increase of suction/pressure which draws more juice to the coil.
If its dry, the opposite may apply including: Too much cotton/wick which strangles juice flow at the coil so it doesn't feed the coil efficiently. (I've seen a bunch of vids where folks recommend putting in way more cotton than I've had success with). Vaping out of a larger air intake hole &/or drawing too light (both cause less pressure and thus less juice to be fed to the coil), &/or vaping at too high wattage which burns up more juice & perhaps more than it's being fed.
Finally, as mentioned already, thickness of juice is another factor (too thin is more prone to flooding and too thick is more prone to dry hits). 50/50 should be totally fine so its one of the other factors (wicking &/or draw)
The squape works on pressure induced when drawing on it. More pressure = more juice fed. When I first got it I had a lot of leaks (& if it starts to leak, it won't stop until you correct the issue - a little leak can drain an entire 5ml tank!). Once I figured that out, I haven't had any major issues since. I've never had to plug the air intake when screwing the tank down to reduce issues.
-The only time I run into serious leaking/flooding issues, is when I bring it on the airplane because the change in pressure guarantees a flood. The fix for that is to unscrew the tank once you reach altitude and again when you land.
Hope this helps & I apologize for the novel.
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I used the B deck this weekend on a 100% VG juice and it worked like a charm (the W deck did not work with 100% VG, got dry hits).
But it leaked when left overnight and I've read need to use more cotton so I'm going to experiment with that next weekend. Will update.
But it leaked when left overnight and I've read need to use more cotton so I'm going to experiment with that next weekend. Will update.
I use 1Ohm and 15Watts max. It already leaked on me today, but was few liquid. Today after work I will push down the wick a little, without obstruct the channel, to see how it performs..
Thanks nj !
I've rewicked 4 tanks with this method since I read this last night. So much quicker and simpler than rolling the cotton and I'm finding it easier to eye the right amount. The cotton stays super fluffy and no more worrying about over-compressing the the roll. With a good pair of tissue scissors making X wicks was even easier than rolling and folding the cotton.
My days of rolling cotton are over
The extendable pin I think just isn't long enough for some mods amongst maybe other problems. I think I got a problem where the pin in my VF is jamming up, so now I need to extend the squape pin out even more to get a proper connection, it reads fine but that O ring on the pin is now not secure and it looks like I'm somehow getting leaks through there. My other mod is playing up again too but doesn't look to be squape related, just one of those weeks where everything breaks at once.
Thanks! I actually haven't had the leaking issues with the B deck recently (knock on wood). I did have them when I first started squaping. Not fully sure what to attribute the change to, but it may have to do with the fact that I've started to use ceramic wick (readyXwick brand, medium 2.7 mm size) instead of cotton, a great improvement which I would strongly recommend if you don't like re-wicking often.
I did try my W deck again the other day and thought it was very harsh compared to the B-deck, though it did seem to hit harder, so perhaps that's what people are preferring from it. I should also note that I have had just as many difficulties originally with leaks from the W deck as the B deck, and find that either will leak depending on the setup, but either can be completely leak-less depending on the setup.
I'm generally using 15-20 watts on a Vapor Flask SX, with Titanium grade 1 coils, and have been messing around with different gauges of titanium from 22-26 or so, and am still trying to tweak to get these just right. I have typically been using the 2.5 mm or 3 mm coiler, mainly because the thicker medium readyXwick is more hardy than the super thin wick for micro-coils, though I'd be curious to see how they work. I do have a nice bulk order of 20 gauge titanium coming in from Lightning Vape this week and I look forward to trying that very soon, which I think will be an improvement based on the calculations on the coil site.
Due to some mild paranoia about high temperature vaping, I've been keeping temp quite low, generally as low as I can get away with and still keep the thing running smoothly. Presently I'm working with 320-330 farenheit usually, though sometimes I've experimented with temps as low as 270 or as high as 390. I use either the smallest or next to smallest air hole usually to save my lungs. I always use 100 percent VG juice, typically 24 mg/ML, and have been using a Natural coffee flavor, though I just ordered some unflavored to try, figuring I can always order flavor to mix with later if I don't enjoy vaping the pure nicotine base.
I would be very curious to hear more experiences generally on using the Squape for temp control. I am particularly interested to know if anyone else is using the Squape with either of the materials I am using here, Grade 1 Titanium wire instead of the usual Nickel, or ceramic wicks instead of cotton (probably the biggest advantage of these wicks is that they last a long time, easily a month and some use them for 6 months or more with dry-burning or torching them clean.)I do have some Nickel I've never used so perhaps I'll try a nickel build at some point, but I have long had familiarity with vaping with titanium from other vaporizing pursuits that shall not be named (and which use much higher temps), so it seemed a natural choice for me, and the coils are extremely long-lasting I have found. All in all, the Squape has been a godsend for someone who nearly gave up on rebuildables after several torturous weeks trying to build a 60 puzzle part Kayfun, and then a minuscule Chalice that was similarly impossible to build. The Squape was buildable for me onthe first day, and was almost as easy as installing pre-made coils into a cheap throwaway atomizer.
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I also wanted to strongly recommend the filling attachment to everyone, which I feel should come standard with the unit it is so essential for best operation. This reallh makes refilling messless and practically foolproof, as well as much faster and with much less waste. It's actually astonishing how easily and simply it works without making a mess. Plus, if you need to open up your tank to fix the coil or wick and you still have nicotine liquid inside, you can use the attachment to plug your tank without losing any of your liquid. Everyone should have one or more of these to make refilling less of a chore.
Sorry to post yet again! I just wanted to ask one question for the Squapers. Is there any functional advantage to the aluminum tank? any change in taste or flavor profile due to the aluminum vs steel? or is this purely a benefit in terms of form and aesthetics? At the least, reduced weight of aluminum is a functional advantage, though I don't know that the lesser weight in the pocket would be that noticeable unless one's mod itself is very light, and I'm worried the aluminum would deform badly if dropped. Also unclear to me if aluminum vs steel is a more safe material in terms of leaching or anything like that. Still, I'm considering an aluminum tank to go with my aluminum black flask (with steel bottom) though I kind of like the two tone look, and had a thought that it might look too long and plain if all black. Thoughts on the aluminum vs steel tanks?
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