? On rebuilding premade coils

[JadidasKV]

I seen a couple videos rebuilding tfv4&8, crown1&2 coils. Its pretty easy. Even the sextuple coils can be done, you just do 3 instead of 6. The only thing im wondering, is how do you predetermine what the Ω's are going to come out to? I have 22g, 24g, and 26g in both kanthal and SS so i want to rebuild a few of my tfv8&4 coils as well as my crown 2 coils. I want to build some at .15, .25, .40, .60 so i can do some testing and see what i like better, im just not sure on how to get those Ωs.

I tried to use my multimeter on the old coils still together, and on just the wire after i pulled it out of the coils, but i wasnt getting the .4 reading the coils are supposed to be before i took them apart or just on the wire itself. My plan was to getting a reading on just the wire then cut the new wire to that length, but i wasnt getting the readings i was expecting so i didnt try yet. I dont imagine steam engine will work because the casings will change the final results, as well as because its not a regular coil like one that would go in an rba, right? Any ideas on how to get certain Ωs before hand/before building and putting it on a mod or ohm reader?

 

[vapdivrr]

The multimeter should work , you just need it on the correct ohm setting. My setting is the 200 one and if you touch the positive prod on the very bottom center of coil and the negative prod just on the outside of coil about half way up, you should get a reading. Just remember to touch both prods together first to get a resistance of the multimeter then subtract that from the coil.

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[vapdivrr]

I don't know about those sub ohm multi coil tanks but to rebuild them, don't you still have to hand wind each individual coil on a small rod of some sort? Steam engine should work and testing each individual coil after you wind it is best. Wind a coil and before even installing it into the deck coil, just test it with the multimeter. Testing a lenght of wire before winding is hard and is not usually done like that

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[Imfallen_Angel]

If you check my blog, I have an entry with the link to my rebuilding coils (in the Aspire Atlantis family one) thread/tutorial, so I've done this sort of thing for a fairly long time.

First, if they have a RBA (as per the Beasts do), just go with those.. to rebuild a multi coil cartridge just isn't worth it in time and effort, and the results could be very disapointing. (not sure about the Crown ones)

For single coil rebuilds..

The first/main thing is figuring out the length of wire. I"d recommend in the range of a 28 or 26 gauge should be proper and I'd stick with SS. Check with Steam engine, do the math and give yourself a bit of extra for the legs that will need being cut. Don't go with anything below 0.2ohm, there's no actual good or real reason to go lower.

Do not try to get a "perfect" ohm, but a range of higher or lower by maybe a 0.1 difference is quite fine. You could fine tune this by taking measurements and notes, adjusting as you do the next builds.

These coils absolutely need to be spaced.

Testing the Ohms is easy either with a multi-meter, a tester that has the pinching wires, or simply using your mod with a deck (RTA or RDA) where you simply get the tips of the wires screwed in just to do a quick reading.

BUT it you used the Steam engine correctly, you should be very close to your goal just by measurements.

Wind your coil at the size that you want, that will fit the cartridge, considering that you need to stretch it out and re-push to space it properly... and make it at a size that will allow you to wick it correctly.

 

[JadidasKV]

The multimeter should work , you just need it on the correct ohm setting. My setting is the 200 one and if you touch the positive prod on the very bottom center of coil and the negative prod just on the outside of coil about half way up, you should get a reading. Just remember to touch both prods together first to get a resistance of the multimeter then subtract that from the coil.

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I only have one setting for ohms and its an autorange. Im not getting any where close to the right reading. Ive tested actual resistors with it so i know its accurate, but its jus not working with the premades for some reason. It wont stabilize, it jus keeps bouncing around. On a .25 coil, it keeps going up and down from .7 up to 1.2, same when i touch the leads together unless i take it off autorange, then it jus stays at 0 or will give a quick reading at any variety of numbers and go down to 0. It does that no matter what range i put it on.

I thought testing would be easy with the meter, but its not lol. It doesnt stabilize and jus keeps bouncing around.

I have 3 rbas for the tfv4, so i most likely will not be rebuilding the premade coils for those. I may try one out jus to see. The crown and tvf8 coils i will be rebuilding are the .4s which are single coils. Id like to get at least in the .5 accuracy range, but my meter has been of no help. If i use steam engine to build the coil, wont putting it in the housing change the resistance since its making contact with more metal? On the + and - sides of the wire. More metal contact to the coil will change the final outcome no?

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I only have one setting for ohms and its an autorange. Im not getting any where close to the right reading. Ive tested actual resistors with it so i know its accurate, but its jus not working with the premades for some reason. It wont stabilize, it jus keeps bouncing around. On a .25 coil, it keeps going up and down from .7 up to 1.2, same when i touch the leads together unless i take it off autorange, then it jus stays at 0 or will give a quick reading at any variety of numbers and go down to 0. It does that no matter what range i put it on.

I thought testing would be easy with the meter, but its not lol. It doesnt stabilize and jus keeps bouncing around.

I have 3 rbas for the tfv4, so i most likely will not be rebuilding the premade coils for those. I may try one out jus to see. The crown and tvf8 coils i will be rebuilding are the .4s which are single coils. Id like to get at least in the .5 accuracy range, but my meter has been of no help. If i use steam engine to build the coil, wont putting it in the housing change the resistance since its making contact with more metal? On the + and - sides of the wire. More metal contact to the coil will change the final outcome no?

If you're able to test resistors and not a coil, that's just.. mind boggling, you're just not getting a good "grip" or something. Maybe your meter just can't low enough?

For the Crowns, as they are near identical to the basic design of a central post and side negative, the change in resistance is near to nothing... Both positive and negative wires are at the bottom, pressed against the contact points with very little distance, so it's not going to impact the "circuit", plus that the metal for the cartridge is usually made from a very low resistance alloy. (the power follows the wires and travel it and not the cartridge)

 

[JadidasKV]

If you're able to test resistors and not a coil, that's just.. mind boggling, you're just not getting a good "grip" or something. Maybe your meter just can't low enough?

For the Crowns, as they are near identical to the basic design of a central post and side negative, the change in resistance is near to nothing... Both positive and negative wires are at the bottom, pressed against the contact points with very little distance, so it's not going to impact the "circuit", plus that the metal for the cartridge is usually made from a very low resistance alloy. (the power follows the wires and travel it and not the cartridge)

I know its so weird that i can get accurate readings on resistors but not coils. I sont have the gator clips, just the probe type ends, so grip shouldnt be an issue. I can hang the coil with the probe through to positive pin on the v8 and crown 2 coils, then touch anywhere for the ground so that nothing else is touching the coils. The meter does go low enough. I can go from 0.000, 00.00, 000.0, or autorange, so .25 or .4 should not be a problem at all.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

The Baby RBA is $10. This really strikes me as a waste of wire and wick. If you're determined to try, no one will stop you, but rebuilding factory coils never works like you think it will. Especially relatively more complex ones like this; even the 0.4s and 0.6s originally come as parallel coils, whether or not you rebuild that way. Forget about the ones with dual or tri parallel coils. Rebuilding stock heads is more like a last-ditch option if the backups to your backups die. IMO.

No, if you build and mount the coil correctly, steam-engine can and should absolutely be used for this. Just plug in all the info and make a coil of the size it tells you for the resistance you want. This is exactly what it's meant for. Mounting the coil will not change the resistance drastically if it's done right. It should not touch metal but for the leads, and that contact should absolutely not cause a jump in resistance if the leads are secure.

 

[vapdivrr]

I could see redoing a single coil protank coil or something, but these seem like to much work imo. Might be worth trying the rebuildable deck option

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