Orion V2 roll call
- Thread starter tierrataz
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Any definite word on the switch that is planned in the V3? Heard rumors that the V2 pailpoe switch won't be used. I would love it to be all mechanical....the switch has been the primary failure point on the V2's and a fix isn't located at your local Ace Hardware. 
I personally don't give a crap about VV/VW on a hybrid....but that is me and I know plenty that just can't live without an electronic way to maintain a relatively consistent vape experience.
I personally don't give a crap about VV/VW on a hybrid....but that is me and I know plenty that just can't live without an electronic way to maintain a relatively consistent vape experience.
Dont think any infor on the new switch has been released; I have hears the same rumors that pailpoes switch wasnt going ti be used and I also heard that it MAY be VV/Vw
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Test version (left):
So what's your first initial impression of the V3 Ed? Curious minds want to know?
That is awesome emonty! Can you also comment on wrapping a coil? Does the venturi (?) pipe get in the way when wrapping? Do you have to pre-wrap?
Going to visit Les this Sunday, have a vape meet EU style
Would love to go to that vape meet
hi xformulax, if yours looked like the one on the left you should have got hot spots . It does look like a stainless steel but i have this feeling that some kind of bronze or copper was added to it? But it just does not get oxidized no matter how many times you burn and quench it.
Godspeed. When I take my 500 mesh and oxidize it before I roll it into a wick, it has the same colors, transitioning from copper to bronze to dark gray. Please try a bigger gauge wire such as 30 or 28 kanthal, grade A1.
BTW, my oxidation process is this. I cut my piece of mesh to size. I heat each side until red hot twice each, holding the mesh in a different spot each time I heat it and always keeping the torch moving, never still. Then I roll the mesh to size, then I hold the wick on one end and heat it until red hot and let it air cool. Then I repeat for the other end of the wick. That's it. Also, I only use the peter K method for coils; so my coil is always premade and installed on my Orion. I then take my finished wick and slip it into the coil.
No water, no quenching, no juice burns, nothing. And most importantly, never any hot spots. And on the very seldom occasion that I had one, I just took the wick back out and torched that end one more time or just wiggled it around a little bit in the coil. I think some people over complicate the whole oxidizing process and there is a lot of erroneous and misleading information on the forum.
Good Luck and Godspeed!
Sorry, couldn't help it.
BTW, my oxidation process is this. I cut my piece of mesh to size. I heat each side until red hot twice each, holding the mesh in a different spot each time I heat it and always keeping the torch moving, never still. Then I roll the mesh to size, then I hold the wick on one end and heat it until red hot and let it air cool. Then I repeat for the other end of the wick. That's it. Also, I only use the peter K method for coils; so my coil is always premade and installed on my Orion. I then take my finished wick and slip it into the coil.
No water, no quenching, no juice burns, nothing. And most importantly, never any hot spots. And on the very seldom occasion that I had one, I just took the wick back out and torched that end one more time or just wiggled it around a little bit in the coil. I think some people over complicate the whole oxidizing process and there is a lot of erroneous and misleading information on the forum.
Good Luck and Godspeed!
Sorry, couldn't help it.
Coil is made.
Wick is made using the process above, and slipped into the coil
If I were to unroll that wick, it too, would have the same colors as your wick.
Wick is made using the process above, and slipped into the coil
If I were to unroll that wick, it too, would have the same colors as your wick.
Coil is made.
Wick is made using the process above, and slipped into the coil
If I were to unroll that wick, it too, would have the same colors as your wick.
wow yours coil looks so perfect... i noticed that you have 2 nuts in place of the washers... can i use the nuts of the DID? I will now try the same way you do your oxidizing... I hope it works. Thanks alot
Godspeed. When I take my 500 mesh and oxidize it before I roll it into a wick, it has the same colors, transitioning from copper to bronze to dark gray. Please try a bigger gauge wire such as 30 or 28 kanthal, grade A1.
BTW, my oxidation process is this. I cut my piece of mesh to size. I heat each side until red hot twice each, holding the mesh in a different spot each time I heat it and always keeping the torch moving, never still. Then I roll the mesh to size, then I hold the wick on one end and heat it until red hot and let it air cool. Then I repeat for the other end of the wick. That's it. Also, I only use the peter K method for coils; so my coil is always premade and installed on my Orion. I then take my finished wick and slip it into the coil.
No water, no quenching, no juice burns, nothing. And most importantly, never any hot spots. And on the very seldom occasion that I had one, I just took the wick back out and torched that end one more time or just wiggled it around a little bit in the coil. I think some people over complicate the whole oxidizing process and there is a lot of erroneous and misleading information on the forum.
Good Luck and Godspeed!
Sorry, couldn't help it.
By the way what would your wick read with a multimeter? This is what mine reads... doesn't this still mean it's still conductive?
I don't use a multimeter anymore. It's been quite some time. Occasionally I will, just to do it, but I already know what my coils are after I make them. 6/7 of 28 is 1.2ohm, 5/6 of 28 is 1.05ohm and my oxidation process hasn't failed me yet. I have 6 hybrids and I set them all up the same way. I created my process on the Orion.
Please learn the peter K method for your coils and they will look just like mine, promise. Then make your wick and install into coil. Then use your multimeter on the positive/negative posts of the Orion. You should get a normal reading, if your ohms are very high, then you haven't oxidized enough.
I really can't stress enough to use 28 or 30 kanthal a-1.
Please learn the peter K method for your coils and they will look just like mine, promise. Then make your wick and install into coil. Then use your multimeter on the positive/negative posts of the Orion. You should get a normal reading, if your ohms are very high, then you haven't oxidized enough.
I really can't stress enough to use 28 or 30 kanthal a-1.
oh ok thank you crack3done.. i have a 30 kanthal a-1 that just arrived a few days ago. i will try the peter k method. what is the drill bit size that you use may i know to wrap the coils? and did you mean 5/6 of 30 is 1.05ohm? And does the wick need to touch the coils or be wrap just tight but not too tight? sorry i ask so many questions but i have been trying for 2 days and i went back to my lavatube till i get another mesh shipped to me which i just ordered.
Boo ya! After a week of reading, finally catch up to the latest post.
2nd day on my Orion v2.1 (fully stock), Just LOVE IT!!
I sincerely thanks everyone!!
Special thanks to Crack3dOne for the parts!!
2nd day on my Orion v2.1 (fully stock), Just LOVE IT!!
I sincerely thanks everyone!!
Special thanks to Crack3dOne for the parts!!
Looks so clean and pretty, LIKE!!
Coil is made.
Wick is made using the process above, and slipped into the coil
If I were to unroll that wick, it too, would have the same colors as your wick.
- Status
Similar threads
