Orion V2 roll call

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xformulax

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Yup. No problem. I love my orion. It is my fav hybrid out of all of them. It works flawlessly since I did that. The oxidation on the washers is exactly what I pinpoint as the culprit. It comes from the low ohm coils we like. coils that are 1.2ohm and higher don't seem to do this to the washers.

yea... even with ~1.8ohms and a bad short it'll happen ;)

I still prefer the iHybrid for performance... but design (well, looks at least) and form factor go to the orion. hate having the electronics in the switch but at the same time prefer a top side button... also dont need a huge tank like the iHy.... perfect pv would be a blend of the two.

i'd like to see a GG type design with a flush button and a flipped battery (so the button is up top).
 

JollyRogers

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yea... even with ~1.8ohms and a bad short it'll happen ;)

I still prefer the iHybrid for performance... but design (well, looks at least) and form factor go to the orion. hate having the electronics in the switch but at the same time prefer a top side button... also dont need a huge tank like the iHy.... perfect pv would be a blend of the two.

i'd like to see a GG type design with a flush button and a flipped battery (so the button is up top).

I got a HellRaiser last week, and have tried to like it. I have managed to vape 2 tanks out of it in the time I have had it. It's starting to sit a lot now. The tank is huge, and the thing is bulky. The performance is good, and the switch reliable. But not a fan of that recessed switch or bottom buttons in general. Still prefer the Orion or even my GGTS/ZAG over the iHy.
 

xformulax

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i might like the orion more if it wasnt a pile of .... to set up... the aesthetics of the iHy need a lot of work, I too am not in love with the new switch, but hey... it fires! more than I can say for my brand new orion right now.

I'll take the looks of the orion with the performance of the iHybrid :), of course i'd still want interchangable tubes, LE's, etc... you're just not going to get that type of conductivity with SS, as nice as it is.

Time for a juggernaut I say.
 
Just got some new spacers and nuts for the center post on my Orion, working out great so far. So much easier to setup for me than the stock spring.

IlVt4.jpg


3P8D5.jpg
 
Another option I'm going to try is using the DID center post setup with the spacer and dual nuts. Should have my extra spacers and nuts on friday.

stainless steel spacer for did

stainless steel nut for did

I find it easier to setup than the spring on my DIDs.

so jealous! more info? I went to Lowes today... smallest thing they carry is M4... did get a new torch though.

I posted it earlier, they are same spacer and nuts that are used on the mmvapor short DID. These are not off the shelf items, I believe Jim has these machined for his products and the price reflects it, but they work great. They are stainless steel as well and will oxidize less than the stock hardware.
 

xformulax

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I posted it earlier, they are same spacer and nuts that are used on the mmvapor short DID. These are not off the shelf items, I believe Jim has these machined for his products and the price reflects it, but they work great. They are stainless steel as well and will oxidize less than the stock hardware.

You're right, I saw you post that earlier and was put off by both the price and shipping origin. So you used a spacer and 2 nuts? I may have to bite the bullet, shelve the orion for now and order them... take away some of the orions' shortcomings and its easily one of the absolute best hybrids, it's just too bad it ships with the spring setup.

Thanks for the testing and information.
 

xformulax

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hmmm, so I guess after 3 days my switch really is shot... took all the hardware off of the top, and a voltage test from wickhole to the top post (lower nut is shiny as new, no oxidization) shows near 0 until i press the button extremely hard.

edit: to clarify, switch is fine, fires fine with battery in backwards... even the button actuates and has feedback and an audible click, you just have to press past that, and it may be to the point now where I can't press it (hard to say, I still have a "dent" in my thumb from pressing and testing.)
 
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SloHand

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hmmm, so I guess after 3 days my switch really is shot... took all the hardware off of the top, and a voltage test from wickhole to the top post (lower nut is shiny as new, no oxidization) shows near 0 until i press the button extremely hard.

edit: to clarify, switch is fine, fires fine with battery in backwards... even the button actuates and has feedback and an audible click, you just have to press past that, and it may be to the point now where I can't press it (hard to say, I still have a "dent" in my thumb from pressing and testing.)

If your like me xforumulax and have big fingers it can be a challenge to get that little button. Takes some getting used to. I don't notice any issues with the button anymore, I've grown accustom to it.

Don't know where crashtest22 is but I swear it was him that showed a replacement button that was bigger than the stock one.
 

xformulax

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i'm further ahead than that ;)

reflowed the solder points, still the button at fault, and while i do have big hands, thats not what the problem is...

IMG_20130110_220738.jpg


obviously the batt is backwards in the pic, but you can see... 3.6v so its not the switch assembly, just the little button.

anyone know what the insulation material is? i'd like to strip it.
 

xformulax

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i'm further ahead than that ;)

reflowed the solder points, still the button at fault, and while i do have big hands, thats not what the problem is...

[IMG Removed]

obviously the batt is backwards in the pic, but you can see... 3.6v so its not the switch assembly, just the little button.

anyone know what the insulation material is? i'd like to strip it.

You have the battery backwards. ^^^

should be negative side on the switch.


I know you're trying to help, and I appreciate it.
 
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