PDIB's Making MODs!
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Why I'm leaving it to the artist making the precious...PDIBS you are a very skilled artist!
You are wise MKR.
Pricing (oh, look, and thoughts):
Couple things. I'm going to be making plenty, plenty of beautiful, unique mods with in-house materials. There is absolutely no need to purchase your own materials. It's an option. Before many of you will be making final decisions on materials and such, you'll have ample opportunity to see pics of completed mods made with lots of woods. Be patient, sit back, relax, imaginate and muse about what you might like. If you're on "the queue", there's no rush. Buying your own stabilized is your own risk, and cost. Prices may change before it's your turn.
There's more; but let's not get complicated.
The following prices are hopeful and subject to change. If I can't sustain at these prices, they will rise.
Standard mod: $225 + shipping (black richlite caps/button and aluminum plate)
[add: $5 copper plate, $2 SS 510+ post (post only). . . . . . maybe . . ..
]
Custom Body: $225 + shipping (black richlite caps/button and aluminum plate) + your cost on materials/shipping to me
Custom Matching: $250 + shipping (caps and button made of custom materials) + your cost on materials/shipping to me
Custom PITA: ~$275 + shipping (this is where the materials you provide further complicate matters; be it not really strong enough by itself, not stabilized, etc.)
Like Treebeard said: all custom and stabilized materials run some small risk of not being colored throughout, hiding a big ole' knot, or what have you.
EDIT: Please see updated pricing here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-203.html#post12101221
Couple things. I'm going to be making plenty, plenty of beautiful, unique mods with in-house materials. There is absolutely no need to purchase your own materials. It's an option. Before many of you will be making final decisions on materials and such, you'll have ample opportunity to see pics of completed mods made with lots of woods. Be patient, sit back, relax, imaginate and muse about what you might like. If you're on "the queue", there's no rush. Buying your own stabilized is your own risk, and cost. Prices may change before it's your turn.
There's more; but let's not get complicated.
The following prices are hopeful and subject to change. If I can't sustain at these prices, they will rise.
Standard mod: $225 + shipping (black richlite caps/button and aluminum plate)
[add: $5 copper plate, $2 SS 510+ post (post only). . . . . . maybe . . ..
]Custom Body: $225 + shipping (black richlite caps/button and aluminum plate) + your cost on materials/shipping to me
Custom Matching: $250 + shipping (caps and button made of custom materials) + your cost on materials/shipping to me
Custom PITA: ~$275 + shipping (this is where the materials you provide further complicate matters; be it not really strong enough by itself, not stabilized, etc.)
Like Treebeard said: all custom and stabilized materials run some small risk of not being colored throughout, hiding a big ole' knot, or what have you.
EDIT: Please see updated pricing here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-203.html#post12101221
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Thanks Val...I was thinking more like "Here, buy this battery, buy this atomizer, buy this charger..." I'm so new! Seriously bought a dripper and it sucked, no flavor no vapor. So it took me till today to figure out how to get the bottom off to replace the stock coils. Just built dual coils and it is just badbadbad still. I know, better to use it off my 3,000 mAh batt but I only have those or my MVP2s.
I see what you're getting at, MKR. A lot of those things relate to your tastes and lifestyle. The mod itself accommodates all atties, most 18650 batts (if not all), and etc. So, now we're talking about whether you like a big chamber dual coil, or a small chamber atty . . ..standard, low, superlow resistance builds . . . how long you need your mod to fire without changing batteries, and on and on and on. As we get to know you, and you develop some further preferences, we'll help you dial it in.
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Perfect! Thanks pdibs! I have nanno coils ranging from 1.4-1.7 on my PTs on my MVP2 which I have three in rotation as one is in use, one charged and waiting and one on the charger. I like a tighter draw than the atty I have now (dual coil nimbus dripper) so I'm thinking a single coil atty to start. I can always upgrade later. I like the draw on the PTs, I am home a lot and your mod won't be leaving to go to the doom of the studio where I work and teach so how long the battery lasts isn't an issue. I will buy more than just the one it needs to run so I will always have power. I am a gemini who prefers being dirty to fancy dinners and has a weird sense of humor...oh and I have MS though it's a bummer only when trying to drive.
Does that help?
On a mech ( and I just realized this lately) you might want to drop your ohms as well to get the hit you want... Try 1.2
It's delicious
One air hole is definitely been better to me as well, and get the coil as close as you can to that air hole... That + micro/ nano coils seems to tighten the draw a bit as well. May I suggest the RM2? ( reomizer) super easy build, allows you to play quite a bit without worrying about shorts from the cup( it's ceramic)
Edit: get the unmilled version for this mod. The milled version ( for a standard grand) would just look funny
It's delicious
One air hole is definitely been better to me as well, and get the coil as close as you can to that air hole... That + micro/ nano coils seems to tighten the draw a bit as well. May I suggest the RM2? ( reomizer) super easy build, allows you to play quite a bit without worrying about shorts from the cup( it's ceramic)
Edit: get the unmilled version for this mod. The milled version ( for a standard grand) would just look funny
On a mech ( and I just realized this lately) you might want to drop your ohms as well to get the hit you want... Try 1.2
It's delicious
One air hole is definitely been better to me as well, and get the coil as close as you can to that air hole... That + micro/ nano coils seems to tighten the draw a bit as well. May I suggest the RM2? ( reomizer) super easy build, allows you to play quite a bit without worrying about shorts from the cup( it's ceramic)
Edit: get the unmilled version for this mod. The milled version ( for a standard grand) would just look funny
Excellent! One unmilled RM2. Thank you!
Thank you MasterofNone!! (For passing on the info derived from the masters of all... )
I ripped into my one coil mounted on my nimbus and took it down a bit too low (.9) but mounted it back closer to the air hole, blocked the other air hole with electrical tape and it is much, much better!
This is very exciting. *hops and bounces*
)I ripped into my one coil mounted on my nimbus and took it down a bit too low (.9) but mounted it back closer to the air hole, blocked the other air hole with electrical tape and it is much, much better!
This is very exciting. *hops and bounces*
That's a great place to start. The RM2 will have a hole just a bit bigger than you're used to. Like MON said, you'll pro'ly be dropping your resistance some and finding your sweet spot. There's been a surge in new battery chemistries and capacities. You want to shop for batteries that can handle an amp load substantially bigger than what you're currently drawing. Most people tend to go down in resistance as they get into mechanicals and RBAs. Given what you're buying (six months of power), batteries aren't very expensive. In your situation, where you don't need longevity, I'd look for good prices on AW IMR 18650 1600mAh (←specifically), Samsung INR 18650 20R 2000mAh, and others. I'll let other folk chime in on batts, cause there's more good ones out there that I haven't personally used (like the Sony VT3 and VT4).
I'm so excited to be in on this. Now to find a way to curb my impatient nature lol. Suppose I could go on a quest for a worthy atty I chose some old growth Redwood dyed/stabilized. Hopefully that works out and if not I'm sure something will work out. Thanks pdib!
I chose some old growth Redwood dyed/stabilized. Hopefully that works out and if not I'm sure something will work out. Thanks pdib!
I'd suggest you look for 30A batteries and a lot fit the bill, i like orbtronic sx30s, because i am greedy.
There is also no requirement to use subohms at all - my mrs "hates all that crap", but likes the look of the thing. She wants her name engraved in it and so on. I suspect if she ever gets to heaven her first words will be 'get out of my chair'.
T
There is also no requirement to use subohms at all - my mrs "hates all that crap", but likes the look of the thing. She wants her name engraved in it and so on. I suspect if she ever gets to heaven her first words will be 'get out of my chair'.
T
Thank you thank you thank you! Now the ultimate question...Where do I find these and the RM2? I google and the only place listing the RM2 is at reo mods and it doesn't say if it's been milled or not. I imagine I can find the batteries on ebay but will let others chime in before I go hunting them down.
You guys are so very helpful, thank you!!!
You guys are so very helpful, thank you!!!
Rob now has a unmilled version on the site... Walking and don't want to get hit by a car so no link sorry
i get my orbtronics imaginatively enough from orbtronics.com and they ship free. You will only find an RM2 on Reosmods since it is a modified atty made for use on a Reo.
I have yet to find anything it does not work on.
T
I have yet to find anything it does not work on.
T
Rob now has a unmilled version on the site... Walking and don't want to get hit by a car so no link sorry
*waits for no trafic or walking for link* I look on the site but haven't found it...*waits*
Thank you supertrunker!!
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