PDIB's Making MODs!
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Although i haven't seen the fuse block in the Dibby mod ( mine doesn't as photos show) batt model can be an important decision here. Best to choose a battery you want to stick with so Pdib can design the specs appropriately (some batt models have variations in length so contact should be snug).
Using the same model battery will avoid having any major adjustment issues.
Pdib modded a Reo for me and his *fuse block came with a spring at the bottom and it is *awesome for keeping AW IMR 1600s snug. They AWIMR1600 are best for mechanicals and are also notorious for variations in length, but the most popular batt around. Reo pos. pin was modded too.
FOr my Dibby i asked for fitting for Orbtronic 22amp batts and so I have at least a couple of those to keep that woody humming.
Using the same model battery will avoid having any major adjustment issues.
Pdib modded a Reo for me and his *fuse block came with a spring at the bottom and it is *awesome for keeping AW IMR 1600s snug. They AWIMR1600 are best for mechanicals and are also notorious for variations in length, but the most popular batt around. Reo pos. pin was modded too.
FOr my Dibby i asked for fitting for Orbtronic 22amp batts and so I have at least a couple of those to keep that woody humming.
*taps fingers*.....*flips through magazine looking at clock*.....*siiiiigh*.......*flosses teeth*.....*picks ear*....*looks around the room then back at clock*....
No worries, all of this stuff has to get to me first. No pressure, I'm cool with waiting, really.
*taps fingers*.....*flips through magazine looking at clock*.....*siiiiigh*.......*flosses teeth*.....*picks ear*....*looks around the room then back at clock*....
No worries, all of this stuff has to get to me first. No pressure, I'm cool with waiting, really.
Trust me when i say that life and it's finest things are worth waiting for. Stop for a yellow light, stay an extra hour "off the clock", and be sure to be courteous to those who are rude...
This is only a tiny bit of that which makes a Dibby.
Dibby users are a step above the rest.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
In my line of work patience is everything so I certainly understand. For the beauty of these functional and sculptural works of art I will happily wait to hold it in my hands, to feel the wood, to add that much more pleasure to my vaping. I will happily wait for gold like this!!
Ahhhhhhhh, Uke . . . . .the joys of being a beta tester. My friend, I'll tell you in the same breath that I thank you endlessly, and that I've worked it out so the fit is more forgiving for different batteries. (Uke is where I figured out that Orbies can be well over 66mm, when they are listed as 65.25, +/-0.2mm . . . .. and that's why I don't promise they'll fit. If the size ain't what they say it's gonna be, then I can't tell you what size it is.)
If we ever decide to start a political party, you'll be our spokesperson, kk?
X for president... Nah... Far too many skeletons in this closet!
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
In my line of work patience is everything so I certainly understand. For the beauty of these functional and sculptural works of art I will happily wait to hold it in my hands, to feel the wood, to add that much more pleasure to my vaping. I will happily wait for gold like this!!
Here's some interesting information about stabilized burl that I just stumbled on.
There are two primary types of stabilized wood: Closed-cell "A" and open-cell "B". Closed-cell "A" is much heavier and the entire cell of the wood is filled with resin. Open-cell "B" is only coated on the inside of the cell, so is much lighter. Some woods look better one way, and some the other. Some projects such as pens do not need dense stabilization whereas, say a knife-maker would want it. If you are building a pool cue and need lighter wood, then open-cell would work best.
There are two primary types of stabilized wood: Closed-cell "A" and open-cell "B". Closed-cell "A" is much heavier and the entire cell of the wood is filled with resin. Open-cell "B" is only coated on the inside of the cell, so is much lighter. Some woods look better one way, and some the other. Some projects such as pens do not need dense stabilization whereas, say a knife-maker would want it. If you are building a pool cue and need lighter wood, then open-cell would work best.
Hey Mr. Dibs, will there be any pics of the mods in various stages of completion?
And...
Wetting scales with water shows what the potential of the wood can be. If you polish the wood with no finish, it will not look as good as if you finished the wood with a clear finish. Burl many times has flaws (such as voids, cracks or pits); a burl is a flaw in of itself of a tree. It is the craftsman's job to turn a defect into something beautiful.
Yeah and a video of the mod maker in his shop tossing burl and tools around masterfully like Sherlock tosses detailed thoughts. (Mod-making porn)
Can I sign up for 1? Copper top plate with "woodsy" brown-ish color burl/woods.
The following prices are hopeful and subject to change. If I can't sustain at these prices, they will rise.
Standard Mod: $225 + shipping (black richlite caps/button and aluminum plate)
[add: $5 copper plate, $2 SS 510+ post (post only). . . . . . maybe . . ..]
I'm not gonna mess with the artisan's vision. I'm still dibbing for 2 dibbys w/ additional delights
I'm calling this an "intermediate" user's mod. It is, as is the case with all mechanical mods and rebuildable atomizers, strongly suggested that the end user have a Multimeter and a knowledge of how to check for conductivity, resistance, and etc. Also, the ability to tweak (effectively) small parts with screwdriver, pliers or wrench.
Say, for example, your mod won't fire. The first thing I'm going to suggest is that you assemble ONLY the bottom cap, body and battery; then, using your multimeter, check for resting battery voltage at the exposed (negative) end of the battery and the top of the centerpost (+ . .. the brass post running up the center of the body). If no voltage detected, adjust the center post 1/10th turn down/clockwise and check again.
If ↑ that makes absolutely no sense to you . . . . .. be prepared for a learning curve.
bookmarked for future reference
for the newbies like myself, found these very helpful
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