PDIB's Making MODs!

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Alexander Mundy

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Ok I found you guys hiding over here.. Too much to read through but I do know that I need to be put on the list for one of these... If there is a list.. :)

Welcome to Dibiland.
Here you will find idle chit chat interspaced with tidbits of information about the pdib mod.
ValHeli pointed to the thread that is reserved for on topic posts.
I just received my OliveR (pdib mod does not have an official name, but that was one suggestion although Dibi is the more favored) and am on the list for another.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Dibi OliveR porn

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pdib

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Just a quick warm welcome and congrats to all the new owners of "those fling-flangin' mods what that pdib's been done makin”. I'm counting 8 so far with #9 on its way.

They're all just AWESOME!

Welcome to pdiberdabberville. :)

A+ for lingo! :)




#10 is on it's way too. The kindly vaping sir conceded to await shipping until I was also sending homeboy late-to-the-party-chitlin's mod.


(i tease; but the truth of the matter is that both these folks were kind enough to respond on very short notice)
 

MasterofNone

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A+ for lingo! :)




#10 is on it's way too. The kindly vaping sir conceded to await shipping until I was also sending homeboy late-to-the-party-chitlin's mod.


(i tease; but the truth of the matter is that both these folks were kind enough to respond on very short notice)

Hangs head.... Lol. Thank you kindly vaping sir and MISTER dibs for giving me the opportunity to be on this run... So that I can set myself up for run eight for #2 :)

OliveR Dibis R going to become my new vaping obsession lol
 

Alexander Mundy

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For the sub ohm peeps, here is what I have found:

pdib mod with aluminum plate and stainless 510 center pin

4.17V <=Orbtronic SX30 unloaded at start of test
0.82Ω <=Coil during testing
RM2 <=Atomizer
3.91V <=At coil
3.95V <=From top of brass screw through body to atty negative post
3.96V <=From bottom of brass screw through body to atty negative post
4.16V <=Stop to test battery unloaded
3.97V <=From small brass screw in base to atty negative post
3.98V <=From big brass screw in base to atty negative post
4.02V <=From big brass screw in base to negative end of battery
0.02V <=From top cap aluminum plate to atomizer negative post
4.13V <=Stop to test battery unloaded

Quick check with AW
4.22V <=AW IMR18650 1600mah unloaded
4.00V <=at coil

Quick analysis:
AW had slightly less voltage drop than the Orbtronic.*
Largest single (by far) voltage drop present is from the internal resistance of the battery.
The rest of the voltage drop is very small amounts adding together throughout.

*.04V not much to write home about

Comments:
The stainless 510 center pin doesn't present any unnecessary voltage drop.
The aluminum plate doesn't present any unnecessary voltage drop.

Slam dunk

Darn it pdib, you didn't leave me anything to modify!
 

super_X_drifter

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Here's what ima get next:

3 spare completely assembled bases, fuse and all. Keep one in each rig.

Then if I ever have a short when I'm away from the crib, I simply correct the short and hot swap a base and I'm back to vaping :)

I like it.

What do you think the price of one of these items be pdib?

Oh, and for the record, I've never had a short, ever - that I didn't intentionally create - like when testing 10 a fuses :)
 

turbocad6

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these are hand matched as there assembled so getting a single replacement component after the fact may be difficult. I'm betting that reproducing something that will somewhat "fit" is going to be easier that reproducing something that is going to fit and be flush to the mod all around and really fit perfect. probably take a trip back to peter to create a perfect fitting replacement cap is my guess :)
 

MasterofNone

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these are hand matched as there assembled so getting a single replacement component after the fact may be difficult. I'm betting that reproducing something that will somewhat "fit" is going to be easier that reproducing something that is going to fit and be flush to the mod all around and really fit perfect. probably take a trip back to peter to create a perfect fitting replacement cap is my guess :)

Well some of us already have two- anyone care to test the theory?
 

supertrunker

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What i am finding is that i am getting a lot more useable power to the atty. I have blasted thru 18ml of juice since Friday night and done it using only 2 sx30s. So i am confident that i can get a full day's use from one battery.
My coil is 0.6Ω.

Best of all - no cleaning, no filing, no sparks, no noaloxing. I'm impressed. HRH, who is much easier on her gear than i am is on the same PD2900 battery with a 1.2Ω coil.

T
 

pdib

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Yeah, the Mods are fabricated as unique, individual units. It's conceivable to fabricate one with multiple bottoms (right from the outset . . . . day one). It's not impossible to make a second bottom (with the original mod in the shop, and possibly needing partial or complete refinishing). It wouldn't be cheap enough to justify the convenience.

What I've found, the way shorts tend to present themselves, if you don't short out on start-up (fresh coil, seating the atty, new metal drip tip), you're pro'ly good to go (literally . . . .leave the house) on that build. Lightning may strike; but who can live that way?



Seems more likely you'd leave the house having forgotten to swap for a fresh battery :p
 

pdib

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For the sub ohm peeps, here is what I have found:

pdib mod with aluminum plate and stainless 510 center pin

4.17V <=Orbtronic SX30 unloaded at start of test
0.82Ω <=Coil during testing
RM2 <=Atomizer
3.91V <=At coil
3.95V <=From top of brass screw through body to atty negative post
3.96V <=From bottom of brass screw through body to atty negative post
4.16V <=Stop to test battery unloaded
3.97V <=From small brass screw in base to atty negative post
3.98V <=From big brass screw in base to atty negative post
4.02V <=From big brass screw in base to negative end of battery
0.02V <=From top cap aluminum plate to atomizer negative post
4.13V <=Stop to test battery unloaded

Quick check with AW
4.22V <=AW IMR18650 1600mah unloaded
4.00V <=at coil

Quick analysis:
AW had slightly less voltage drop than the Orbtronic.*
Largest single (by far) voltage drop present is from the internal resistance of the battery.
The rest of the voltage drop is very small amounts adding together throughout.

*.04V not much to write home about

Comments:
The stainless 510 center pin doesn't present any unnecessary voltage drop.
The aluminum plate doesn't present any unnecessary voltage drop.

Slam dunk

Darn it pdib, you didn't leave me anything to modify!


This is very good news, Mundy! It's good to have some results from outside the point of origin. Furthermore, as you know, my DMM fritzed. I've since replaced it; but the new one (same model) reads the resistance differently. Leaves me feeling like, for any reliable numbers, we need a lot more input like yours.

Thanks, very much, for the work!
 

Treebeard

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What i am finding is that i am getting a lot more useable power to the atty. I have blasted thru 18ml of juice since Friday night and done it using only 2 sx30s. So i am confident that i can get a full day's use from one battery.
My coil is 0.6Ω.

Best of all - no cleaning, no filing, no sparks, no noaloxing. I'm impressed. HRH, who is much easier on her gear than i am is on the same PD2900 battery with a 1.2Ω coil.

T

Ditto. The power hits the coil instantly and the power is consistent from the time you press the fire button till you let off. With some other mech mods, I feel like I have to prime the coil with a quick press of the button or two to heat it up before I start my draw. Not so with the dibi.
 

Megan Kogijiki Ratchford

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Ditto. The power hits the coil instantly and the power is consistent from the time you press the fire button till you let off. With some other mech mods, I feel like I have to prime the coil with a quick press of the button or two to heat it up before I start my draw. Not so with the dibi.

Agreed...only the lessening of the battery slows this sweet mod down! :thumb:
 
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