PDIB's Making MODs!

[Bimini Twist]

Just got my Cyclone AFC for my Oliver, going to have to wait 4months tho In the mean time I'll be grinding down my REO's catch cup DIY style w/ a dremel. I also opted for the TF version so I can drill out the holes where I want em. (I've gotta try to stay busy, this wait is killing me!)

I have the TF/AFC version, but not because I opted for it. When I was ready to buy, nobody had a BF/AFC available. So, TF/AFC from this site, BF from that site.

Worked out, though. I don't have a BF mod yet (Next run ) So I'm vaping the Cyclone w/AFC on a tube mech and digging it!

Now if the USPS would get off their duffs in Indiana - my BF Cyclone's been sitting their for days - and its already past their own estimated delivery date.

 

[BuzzKilla]

Yup...I was DEEP into the RC hobby a while back to...
Finally stopped after I loaded a car up with lipos and brush less speedos and a sick brush less motor.
Put it on the line and when the bell sounded I got excited and pulled the throttle a bit too hard. The car moved about 2 inches as I ripped the hubs out of all 4 wheels. A leetle too much torque.

Stopped when I finally came to the conclusion that for me the entire hobby boiled down to "how fast can you afford to go?"

Im much happier with vaping

Thanks
Geo

Reinforced Tamiya dish wheels do the trick....
My trouble was trying to find a set of tires that wouldn't grenade on the first lap....
10800kv motor running off a 11.1v 3 cell pack....
the recommended foams tires, didn't work to well.

 

[Borescoped]

Ah, one other thing I just thought of, before getting off my computer and going to the gym.... Button or flat tops for both the REO and the OliveR? I've got a pair of the new Efest 30A 1600mah flat tops, from MBV. I would think they should be fine for both right? Didn't see top style specified on the REO site under the user manuals, and from the inside pics of the OliveR, looks like a flat top would work.

Same thing for me for batteries.... Buy ones that will work in everything I have LOL. i'll spring for AW's if I need to, but if I have something already that will work in the LP and the Dibby, just use them.

*EDIT* - Did a quick search... saw another thread (old) saying button top preferred for the REO, but flat would work. Pdib listed both flats and button top as recommended styles..... any thoughts?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Ah, one other thing I just thought of, before getting off my computer and going to the gym.... Button or flat tops for both the REO and the OliveR? I've got a pair of the new Efest 30A 1600mah flat tops, from MBV. I would think they should be fine for both right? Didn't see top style specified on the REO site under the user manuals, and from the inside pics of the OliveR, looks like a flat top would work.

Same thing for me for batteries.... Buy ones that will work in everything I have LOL. i'll spring for AW's if I need to, but if I have something already that will work in the LP and the Dibby, just use them.

*EDIT* - Did a quick search... saw another thread (old) saying button top preferred for the REO, but flat would work. Pdib listed both flats and button top as recommended styles..... any thoughts?

Flat top in Reo Grand only if you make your own firing pin.
Rob does not recommend anything but AW button top.

 

[MasterofNone]

rm2 update everyone!

So two things.

That little metal disk under the ceramic? Will totally come off if you do it right. My first go around, I did not lol.

Second, if you have a mini screwdriver that fits through the feed hole in the positive pin, put it through from inside, provide some pressure and turn. That will allow it to screw/ unscrew so you can get your coil/ hole where you want it.

Did I mention my in milled is back on my OliveR? I don't even need a washer between cap and base to align the air hole on this one- the threads were milled perfect for each other
Heaven

What a difference a snow day and a cup of coffee can make lol

 

[timk]

Snapped a decent pic of my block of wood finally before shipping to pdib. Just couldn't get what I saw to show up in a picture. Figured I'd share again.




I'm a bit early for run #3 I'm sure but I am tired of looking at this wood in its current non-vapable configuration.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

That is great looking, nice find.

 

[Whiplash205]

Snapped a decent pic of my block of wood finally before shipping to pdib. Just couldn't get what I saw to show up in a picture. Figured I'd share again.




I'm a bit early for run #3 I'm sure but I am tired of looking at this wood in its current non-vapable configuration.

Where are y'all getting your wood from.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

 

[JayTater]

Where are y'all getting your wood from.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

That's a loaded question!

 

[ValHeli]

Reinforced Tamiya dish wheels do the trick....
My trouble was trying to find a set of tires that wouldn't grenade on the first lap....
10800kv motor running off a 11.1v 3 cell pack....
the recommended foams tires, didn't work to well.

here's some RC porn from back in the day

 

[timk]

Where are y'all getting your wood from.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

I usually wake up with..... nevermind about that. hahaha

This came from burlsource.us. DO NOT buy wood without talking to pdib first though. There's some risk in sourcing your own wood. Starting to think, a lot more than "some" risk. Chatting with him now about the viability of my choice as he has had some not work out.

My brother has been doing quite a bit of wood working lately and he says it's very hit n miss. Spend hours and hours on something for it to just snap or a chunk to chip off during final stages. He's mostly turning wood, but has small home built cnc as well.

 

[pdib]

Sadly, even talking to me doesn't always guarantee a viable blank. But I am developing a growing list of guidelines as we go. So you're definitely better off checking with me before buying a piece. I don't mind a link, and a "how's this look?". Today, we ascertained that the stabilizing process doesn't override the inherent weakness in straight grained wood that splits easily to begin with. I'm talking about yer conifers. Imagine someone splitting firewood; from Fir, Cedar, Redwood, etc.

Burls are great. Closed cell stabilization is great. Open cell is pro'ly fine for body only.

I'm still learning on what all kinds of stuff people impregnate material with when they stabilize. It appears there's no set rule.

The materials that have come through my shop so far have been:

Hard and solid (like bakelite). . . .. ←I think that's the "Type A"/closed cell; but also the wood (very hard, dense), and maybe the "stabilizer" material.
Hard and brittle (like Mica, or glass) . . . . .. (typeA . . .? but inherently weak wood)
Hard but amorphous and not resilient (like chalk) . . .. ← I think this is the "type B"/open cell. But it could also be the substance used for stabilizing.

I've also read where stabilization happens under vacuum, and then heat and pressure. I wonder if the first example was full meal deal; whereas the last was vacuum only.


Most of the fruitwoods and exotics I work with (in-house, natural, body only) are resilient by nature. Even if they aren't always the hardest woods, they're up to the task. Mostly, I'm working with woods that have proven themselves out in my decades of custom furniture making and functional sculpture.

 

[pdib]

Where are y'all getting your wood from.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

I usually wake up with..... nevermind about that. hahaha

This came from burlsource.us. DO NOT buy wood without talking to pdib first though. There's some risk in sourcing your own wood. Starting to think, a lot more than "some" risk. Chatting with him now about the viability of my choice as he has had some not work out.

My brother has been doing quite a bit of wood working lately and he says it's very hit n miss. Spend hours and hours on something for it to just snap or a chunk to chip off during final stages. He's mostly turning wood, but has small home built cnc as well.

I've got wood, pretty much all day long.




I live for the wood.



I "work" it.









I'm "the woodworker".

 

[ValHeli]

Great info Pdib!! Could you please add this to your info thread?

Sadly, even talking to me doesn't always guarantee a viable blank. But I am developing a growing list of guidelines as we go. So you're definitely better off checking with me before buying a piece. I don't mind a link, and a "how's this look?". Today, we ascertained that the stabilizing process doesn't override the inherent weakness in straight grained wood that splits easily to begin with. I'm talking about yer conifers. Imagine someone splitting firewood; from Fir, Cedar, Redwood, etc.

Burls are great. Closed cell stabilization is great. Open cell is pro'ly fine for body only.

I'm still learning on what all kinds of stuff people impregnate material with when they stabilize. It appears there's no set rule.

The materials that have come through my shop so far have been:

Hard and solid (like bakelite). . . .. ←I think that's the "Type A"/closed cell; but also the wood (very hard, dense), and maybe the "stabilizer" material.
Hard and brittle (like Mica, or glass) . . . . .. (typeA . . .? but inherently weak wood)
Hard but amorphous and not resilient (like chalk) . . .. ← I think this is the "type B"/open cell. But it could also be the substance used for stabilizing.

I've also read where stabilization happens under vacuum, and then heat and pressure. I wonder if the first example was full meal deal; whereas the last was vacuum only.


Most of the fruitwoods and exotics I work with (in-house, natural, body only) are resilient by nature. Even if they aren't always the hardest woods, they're up to the task. Mostly, I'm working with woods that have proven themselves out in my decades of custom furniture making and functional sculpture.

 

[jasl90]

I didn't take it as insult... I don't get it either. If my flashlight helps me to see in the dark and is small enough to fit in my pocket (waterproof is nice too), it's everything I need it to be.

Same thing for watches... A $30K watch doesn't tell time any better than a $30 watch... That doesn't keep people who can afford it from buying it. I don't get. Even if I had the $$$ I wouldn't do it. But... I suppose, to someone who truly appreciates the difference, it's worth it.

What kind of snake?

Yes, and I didn't mean it in an insulting way when I asked, I genuinely wanted to know what the "lure" is - maybe I am missing out on something.

And it would be difficult for me to explain to someone why I'd spend $2K on a snake!

 

[Rossum]

Same thing for watches... A $30K watch doesn't tell time any better than a $30 watch.

$30k watches are jewelry, nothing more, nothing less. Thing is, it's not socially acceptable for most men to wear most other forms of jewelry, so one or more fancy watches is tends to be where men will spend the money that they would spend on other forms of jewelry if they were women.

 

[ValHeli]

.. yeah, and a broken watch also tells the right time twice a day. Most people simply don't understand the masterful craftsmanship that goes into these mechanical works of art. Basically the same reason why we're all in line for a Dibi bec. for me, i'd pay premium for a hand made work of art.

..Please, pretty please, let's not criticize each other's "hobby"


Here's an article I copied from my "jewelry forum"

**********
I have to admit something: I think all you watch people are crazy. I own a Timex that my dad paid $69 for at Wal-Mart and it keeps time just as well as any of these $5,000 watches people go crazy for, and even looks better than most. To me, a watch is a watch. What makes these expensive timepieces worth the money when they don’t do anything my Timex can’t do?
**********


It is true that your Timex tells you the time as accurately as someone’s Rolex or Breitling, but a watch isn’t about telling the time, it is about your relationship with time. A watch is about style, a story and the history of both your watch and your own life. On a more practical level, there are countless hours of research and development put into high-grade watch movements, employing the finest mechanical engineers in the world to compile hundreds of tiny parts into a durable and accurate machine, all in the size of something slightly larger than a quarter. High-grade watches are about craftsmanship and style, not just about telling time. If life was as simple as you make it seem, none of us would own anything of quality because, after all, a shirt is a shirt as long as you’re not naked; a bus can get you someplace as fast as a car; and a cardboard box can keep the rain off your head as well as a home.

 

[Akdare]

.. yeah, and a broken watch also tells the right time twice a day. Most people simply don't understand the masterful craftsmanship that goes into these mechanical works of art. Basically the same reason why we're all in line for a Dibi bec. for me, i'd pay premium for a hand made work of art.

..Please, pretty please, let's not criticize each other's "hobby"


Here's an article I copied from my "jewelry forum"

**********
I have to admit something: I think all you watch people are crazy. I own a Timex that my dad paid $69 for at Wal-Mart and it keeps time just as well as any of these $5,000 watches people go crazy for, and even looks better than most. To me, a watch is a watch. What makes these expensive timepieces worth the money when they don’t do anything my Timex can’t do?
**********


It is true that your Timex tells you the time as accurately as someone’s Rolex or Breitling, but a watch isn’t about telling the time, it is about your relationship with time. A watch is about style, a story and the history of both your watch and your own life. On a more practical level, there are countless hours of research and development put into high-grade watch movements, employing the finest mechanical engineers in the world to compile hundreds of tiny parts into a durable and accurate machine, all in the size of something slightly larger than a quarter. High-grade watches are about craftsmanship and style, not just about telling time. If life was as simple as you make it seem, none of us would own anything of quality because, after all, a shirt is a shirt as long as you’re not naked; a bus can get you someplace as fast as a car; and a cardboard box can keep the rain off your head as well as a home.

I LOVE this quote...like I always say when asked about a clone.

"Buy the best, and only cry once"

 

[glassgal]

Ok, I've mostly been going back and forth with pdib in pm's about this, but he suggested I post some photos of what I'm up to. Some time ago, I asked pdib about making my own button in glass. He sent me some parts for sizing, specifically, the screw and a piece of richlite with the actual button hole size cut out. I realized that the logistics of making this out of glass was pretty daunting without a mold... mostly due to the base that connects to the screw part.

Since I had the pieces pdib sent me already, I started thinking of other ways I could do it, and given what I REALLY wanted for a button, this would work out better. It's a type of acrylic resin, something I had planned to play with for a long time anyway, but it's similar material to the wood stabilizer we have been sending pdib anyway, so I knew it was both strong and durable enough (or the mod itself wouldn't be). I did my first test with a Swarovski crystal (which is glass, not plastics):

Not bad at all. Actually, that particular crystal was a really nice match for the black and details in the violet wood.

So I went ahead and tried it with what I wanted to begin with. A bee. Not just any bee... a fat little honeybee like pdib's avatar in perfect microscopic detail. I figure if he refuses to sign his wood pieces, this would be a nice permanent reminder of the maker of his mod.

I tried the bee 2 ways, under a glass dome.... which gives a magnifying/holographic effect. Because it's not fully encased in the glass, but only has the glass as a 'cover', is darn near impossible to photograph what you see with your eye. Other way was not encased, but the bee painted with a coat of high strength UV marine epoxy (what they clear coat boat bottoms and surfboards with). I only did that last nite, and it still needs to dry about a week to be at full strength.

Here are the uncoated buttons:

The brown one, which is incredibly beautiful, is a Swarovski crystal limited edition brown cabochon (called "Buffalo"). Looks way prettier than a cats eye. This one goes with everything.

The other bee I did 'naked'. This looks the best, but over time, the detail on the bee would get worn away from pressing on the button, that's why it had to be coated. As this would be the most work, I molded it right on the only button screw I had.

Since I had to coat the naked bee, I decided to coat all of them... they aren't fully cured, and this isn't the best shot, since I just took it, but you get the idea:

I also did them in various height levels for pdib to compare:

Here's the bee detail, relative to hand (er, fingernail, er fingerprint) size. Pretty neat:

I'm going to send them all to pdib soon as the marine epoxy cures. What do you guys think?

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Most people simply don't understand the masterful craftsmanship that goes into these mechanical works of art

So true, I love my Speed Master and my GMT.