Loving my walnut Oliver so far, but I have a small issue with the button. I've added washers to shorten the throw but the action is still very stiff. I can feel the strain in my hand after just a few minutes of use. I realize now why people are button mashing, it takes quite a but of force! I'm hoping the spring loses some of its resistance over time. Has anyone else noticed this, or is there a suggested fix?
PDIB's Making MODs!
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Could shorten the spring a bit by nipping off some of the wider end of it. If you're not inclined to nip, I could send you one (guessing at how much you'd want nipped). As we shorten up the button throw, we are compressing the spring, feeling more resistance, and consequently needing less of it to return the button to the open position. They do seem to relax with time; but you could just "cut" to the chase.
Looking at the bright side, to be in a later run, allows more room for testing. If the Oliver is now 90% perfect, when my turn comes it will be 110% perfect 
(trying to convince myself that I wasn't stupid that I jumped late on the bandwagon )
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(trying to convince myself that I wasn't stupid that I jumped late on the bandwagon ) Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
When I got mine from pdib it fit a bit too tight, so I just used some 600 grit sandpaper to get the excess off so it slid nice and smooth like.
The sandpaper might not work on the metal parts very well though, so you may need a file for those parts.
Bimini, congrats. Hearing all that virgin stuff got the local skinny woman all worked up into a tizzie. Here she is singing you a cover of slipknots' "psychosocial".
When the pic was snapped she was right at the "a virgin" part
Pikachu's a virgin!
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OH yeah, the door thing. At first I tried just filing a bevel on the edges. It wasn't enough. So then I clamped a straight edge where I wanted the shoulder of my rabbet, and filed in the groove against the straight edge. This worked fine but took much time. Later, I set up two sacrificial fences on the table saw (one flat on table, one against fence), brought the blade up through them, and cut my rabbet that way (still gotta file the bevel first, or the saw blade will tear the circuit layer up).
SFM, turns out, although I was using two REOs to check for fit . . . they were two of the loosest REOs this side of the Mississippi.
SFM, turns out, although I was using two REOs to check for fit . . . they were two of the loosest REOs this side of the Mississippi.
I just printed out two more labels . . . (after swearing up a storm at Guvmint Software) . . . . finally succeeded (it wouldn't recognize that I'd already entered the mailing address until, as I cleverly figured out, I selected "create a batch mailing", and then canceled that, and then filled out the delivery address again.)
Anyway, in bold letters: "Carrier -- Leave if No Response"
. . . . .. and immediately under that: "Signature Required"
Here's a link to pdibs original description on making the doors.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11183302
Read a few posts past this one for further discussion.
Bimini, congrats. Hearing all that virgin stuff got the local skinny woman all worked up into a tizzie. Here she is singing you a cover of slipknots' "psychosocial".
When the pic was snapped she was right at the "a virgin" part
Hey Sup... Is that tan mom? Have you seen her music video? All I have to do is say "tan mom" to my wife and she busts out laughing... lol.
Here it is incase you missed it... ROFL "Its Tan Mom" - OFFICIAL music video - YouTube
OH yeah, the door thing. At first I tried just filing a bevel on the edges. It wasn't enough. So then I clamped a straight edge where I wanted the shoulder of my rabbet, and filed in the groove against the straight edge. This worked fine but took much time. Later, I set up two sacrificial fences on the table saw (one flat on table, one against fence), brought the blade up through them, and cut my rabbet that way (still gotta file the bevel first, or the saw blade will tear the circuit layer up).
SFM, turns out, although I was using two REOs to check for fit . . . they were two of the loosest REOs this side of the Mississippi.
And I thought that only pertained to "Slot Machines"? ... lol.
Without seeing the mod's switch assembly, I wonder if it is possible to change the spring out for magnets? Something similar to these. I already have a bunch of those when I upgraded my Vanilla's switch to magnets. Throw resistance was right about perfect with those.
I love the magnet idea but... Wouldn't it be too close to the OTHER magnets? Are we going magnet crazy? Lol
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Question I would have is; is the spring an integral part of the current path from the blind screw to the metal plate or is most of the current going through the contact area of the blind screw at the hole in the metal plate? My guess would be a decent part of the current path is through the spring.
I have taken it apart, but only testing would tell. I will check it out when I can.
Ah yes that could be an issue. Since my other mod is made out of stainless, the current on the switch would probably pass through the body more than the spring so it continued to work with magnets. I read somewhere that wood is a rather poor conductor of electricity.
the current must be assumed to be taking the path of the spring as there can't be guaranteed direct contact between the grounding plate and the button stem. Not without risk of binding. If the stem were to be constricted in it's hole sufficiently to have certain and consistent contact with the plate, it would also be at risk of binding with the tiniest particle present, or with wear and tear. I really wanted that; but couldn't figure a way to accomplish it. I messed with that configuration a lot, and early in the game. When I felt I had to abandon the idea of the button always and without fail being in contact with the plate, and moved on, I built other facets of the design and fabrication process on top of that factor. That is to say, it gets complicated. Between clearances on 3-4 different parts/levels.
Springs are a whole 'nother PITA. Rob's experience with his contact upgrades is a good example. Either you make do with what springs are available. (I still have to modify each spring in three steps/ways before I can use it.) Or you order 10,000 of them, and (apparently) find that your order will be fulfilled in 2-4-6 months . . . . . maybe.
I've been experimenting with odd-lot becu springs that I scored on e-bay. They're stiffer (heavier gauge) on the button press, they're 2" long and cylindrical. They take a lot of modding. Even still, it's a small, limited quantity. I can't provide it as standard.
I'm revisiting the idea of slipping a small (& thin gauge) strip under the spring which would always ensure current path skips the spring. It has to be mechanically weaker than the spring to guarantee a return to the open switch position. And it has to always be in contact with the plate and the button post. Basically, I'm open to ideas on incorporating another part that transfers current directly from stem to plate, and leaves the spring to do only it's mechanical job.
Today, I'm also playing with the idea of a "rocker" switch. Something that is always in contact with the battery, passes through the hole without touching it's perimeter (gasket?), and, when pulled laterally, comes into contact with the plate.
Springs are a whole 'nother PITA. Rob's experience with his contact upgrades is a good example. Either you make do with what springs are available. (I still have to modify each spring in three steps/ways before I can use it.) Or you order 10,000 of them, and (apparently) find that your order will be fulfilled in 2-4-6 months . . . . . maybe.
I've been experimenting with odd-lot becu springs that I scored on e-bay. They're stiffer (heavier gauge) on the button press, they're 2" long and cylindrical. They take a lot of modding. Even still, it's a small, limited quantity. I can't provide it as standard.
I'm revisiting the idea of slipping a small (& thin gauge) strip under the spring which would always ensure current path skips the spring. It has to be mechanically weaker than the spring to guarantee a return to the open switch position. And it has to always be in contact with the plate and the button post. Basically, I'm open to ideas on incorporating another part that transfers current directly from stem to plate, and leaves the spring to do only it's mechanical job.
Today, I'm also playing with the idea of a "rocker" switch. Something that is always in contact with the battery, passes through the hole without touching it's perimeter (gasket?), and, when pulled laterally, comes into contact with the plate.
Someone . . . . .. someone considerate and wiser than I . . . . .. I won't say whom (he's welcome to confess himself) . . .. suggested that it might be a good time to reiterate that I'm offering an "intermediate user's" device here. A "modder's mod", if you will. It does presume that one know something about simple electrical currents, screw-and-nut mechanics, and can troubleshoot a little. My friend was concerned that, with many pretty pictures circulating, it might get lost that this isn't meant to be a zero maintenance, plug-and-play, mindless experience.
So, I'm mentioning it.
And thanks for the reminder, mysterious personage.
So, I'm mentioning it.
And thanks for the reminder, mysterious personage.
Something like this. Lotta problems* to solve; but the idea appeals to me.
*maintaining contact with battery without undue pressure pushing bottom open. Pocket firing. Guarantee of open contact at rest. etc.
*maintaining contact with battery without undue pressure pushing bottom open. Pocket firing. Guarantee of open contact at rest. etc.
Something like this. Lotta problems* to solve; but the idea appeals to me.
*maintaining contact with battery without undue pressure pushing bottom open. Pocket firing. Guarantee of open contact at rest. etc.
Then wouldn't you have the problem of wearing more replacement parts like the gasket?
But what is breaking the contact if the big round metal termination just sits on the battery top the entire time? From the diagram, you are just rocking the button on top of the battery from side to side across the connection... it's connected regardless of the position of your push/pull on the top?
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