It's an Epipe... Rhodesian Ebony Epipe (I think there was only 1 made... dunno): Artist's Original - Shankless - Steam Pipes
PDIB's Making MODs!
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It's an Epipe... Rhodesian Ebony Epipe (I think there was only 1 made... dunno): Artist's Original - Shankless - Steam Pipes
I forgot to say that the e-pipes have a huge drawback... 18350 batteries only... wish they were 18650
... don't last very long, but fun.
... don't last very long, but fun.
contact area of a shaft through bore will benefit from a longer bore in relation to the bore diameter. for example a 1/4" shaft through a hole in a 1/2" plate will always make a more reliable wall connection than a 1/2" shaft through a 1/4" plate all else being equal mainly because the longer the bore/length ratio the less it needs to skew to make contact. once you can get the bore length to be more than double it's diameter you should be in good shape. the easiest way to do what you are looking to do while keeping with your same as-is design is to develop a smaller diameter shaft assy going through a smaller hole to increase the bore depth/diameter ratio. if you could get the button pass through the plate down a bit in diameter it will improve things a lot while staying with the same design setup I think. a leaf spring setup would be better overall than a through bore type design though. a through bore design is going to eventually need maintenance like all the other contacts in a mech and that's another thing that should be disassembled and cleaned (and noloxed) periodically.
my favorite way of implementing a switch in a mech is solid terminal connection at the battery, and then have the make/break remotely handled away from the battery end itself, preferably with silver plated contacts or better. if batteries had silver plated or better ends they would really improve many of the mechs out there, wonder why no one offers something like this? I have no idea but probably because batteries would then cost $25+ each
I started sketching out a few ideas for a different design than yours, a way to use remote contacts with a magnetic button but all the designs I come up with are going to really complicate your construction on these things so much that you'd hate me for even suggesting them
the last thing I'll suggest is a small grounding strip, something like this can be made with some desoldering braid, 10-15 even 20 amps should be no problem, especially since it would still be supplemented with the bore contact as well
my favorite way of implementing a switch in a mech is solid terminal connection at the battery, and then have the make/break remotely handled away from the battery end itself, preferably with silver plated contacts or better. if batteries had silver plated or better ends they would really improve many of the mechs out there, wonder why no one offers something like this? I have no idea but probably because batteries would then cost $25+ each
I started sketching out a few ideas for a different design than yours, a way to use remote contacts with a magnetic button but all the designs I come up with are going to really complicate your construction on these things so much that you'd hate me for even suggesting them
the last thing I'll suggest is a small grounding strip, something like this can be made with some desoldering braid, 10-15 even 20 amps should be no problem, especially since it would still be supplemented with the bore contact as well
Epipemods.com produces these pipes. Each one is one of a kind, I have an Amboyna Burl Gandalf
The switch mechanism is definitely low tech, but it works, and the woodworking/sculpting is beautiful. Pipes weren't meant for sub ohming, just a nice relaxing vape, and only an 18350.
Matt, the owner, will be releasing more pipes to the site after Vape Bash next month. There are still quite a few available now, though.
I forgot to say that the e-pipes have a huge drawback... 18350 batteries only... wish they were 18650
He makes 18490s too...but for a pipe, and the way that you hold it, and for me with smaller hands, I prefer the smaller battery.
lateral motion / rocking would be more fluid (hence the risk of pocket firing). The main point is that we wouldn't have to rely on a spring to carry the current. Direct contact (without a spring bridge) would enhance performance substantially.
A spring has to be thin gauge, by it's nature, constricting the current and creating a binding point in the flow.
btw: X-puppy and I were talking about this the other day. So, Pups, I'll race ya'!
No fair, I'm at work right now and can't go into great detail but I found that when I press the button with my finger on the edge while applying sideways force I get significantly better contact. Keeping the button bore clean also makes a big difference with the aluminum plate.
I just got done sanding the bottom of my spring which made a noticeable difference. For now, I'm not having to apply sideways force to achieve the same result.
Also in regards to spring pressure, a trick I learned with my smok natural to reduce the amount of pressure required to compress the spring, I just heated it up with a torch. Heat a little, test, heat a little more and test until you get your desired resistance. Heating the spring weakens it. Keep in mind reducing the pressure may also reduce continuity.
Back to work!
Epipemods.com produces these pipes. Each one is one of a kind, I have an Amboyna Burl Gandalf
The switch mechanism is definitely low tech, but it works, and the woodworking/sculpting is beautiful. Pipes weren't meant for sub ohming, just a nice relaxing vape, and only an 18350.
Matt, the owner, will be releasing more pipes to the site after Vape Bash next month. There are still quite a few available now, though.
That's a beauty! I love the church warden stem/handle/driptip... but for me, it cools the vape too much, and I bowed to convenience and stuck an aspire bcd on it
. Without doubt, it looks better with a nicer stem tho.I think this one was mine: V3 Rhodesian - Mac Ebony
Oooh. I should use my A7 on it too, good idea
!
I actually have a polished Spheroid & the long bent SS stem from captivapes.com on mine. I have a kayfun mini in long mode on another pipe.
Nah... I like battery life, so I don't like little 18350 mods unless they are micro and cute, or have to be that size. I don't have any 18500 sized batteries
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I have the Spheroid in the microstick now, not convinced it's better than A7 except it stores a bit more juice. Kayfun used to be my favorite, but now I barely use it. So picky about threading, don't like it anymore
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No fair, I'm at work right now and can't go into great detail but I found that when I press the button with my finger on the edge while applying sideways force I get significantly better contact. Keeping the button bore clean also makes a big difference with the aluminum plate.
I just got done sanding the bottom of my spring which made a noticeable difference. For now, I'm not having to apply sideways force to achieve the same result.
Also in regards to spring pressure, a trick I learned with my smok natural to reduce the amount of pressure required to compress the spring, I just heated it up with a torch. Heat a little, test, heat a little more and test until you get your desired resistance. Heating the spring weakens it. Keep in mind reducing the pressure may also reduce continuity.
Back to work!
Yeah, I was considering suggesting softening the "spring temper" with a torch; but I think, out of 20 people (all trying it the first time), 10 will overheat it. Isn't it a bit of a "practiced" art?
The EASIEST (and not necessarily the safest) way to shorten button throw without increasing spring tension is simple to unscrew the contact from the button assembly by a few turns. There's no guarantee it'll stay right where you put it (without added steps); but, hey, maybe it'll stay . . .. IDK. (there's ways to make it stay . . . like gently crimping the threads right where you want it to stop screwing in. . . .. or dropping a tiny object down the screw hole, which will impede the screw from making it all the way home)
Personally, with use, the spring has really softened up for me. I also never felt it was too stiff to start just felt not broken in yet.
much more of this tech talk and i'll be begging for an epileptic dibi dance, damn my soul to hell...
I never found the spring too tough and if anything i wear them out. A good squeeze from one of my old rhino claws and it fires every time.
I'm thinking of toughening it up a bit and using something like keyring metal for my next spring, just to piss HRH off when she tries to pinch a vape on my Dibi!
T
I'm thinking of toughening it up a bit and using something like keyring metal for my next spring, just to piss HRH off when she tries to pinch a vape on my Dibi!
T
I think you would find that you and the unnamed personage have exactly the same opinion. The term "modders mod" was more likely directed at how it was designed, not what you may want to change about it. The unnamed personage likely felt that as the OliveR got in to the hands of more users that were new to devices designed for maximum performance, that they should not expect certain features they're accustomed to having on a vv/vw mass produced device, as it likely would have compromised optimum performance. Yep, that's likely what the unnamed personage conveyed to Dib. It's made to vape like a beast. The fact that it's sexy is a bonus.
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