Whoa... how's it working? Wait a minute.. neither of those have a hole at the bottom
! And, the posts aren't even plated, they're solid brass...PDIB's Making MODs!
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Whoa... how's it working? Wait a minute.. neither of those have a hole at the bottom
! And, the posts aren't even plated, they're solid brass...
OliveR is a ways off yet, not working as yet, no hole....yet, posts are nickel plated brassWhoa... how's it working? Wait a minute.. neither of those have a hole at the bottom
Not the same as the picture as far as the posts.
Just got done hackin up a Hornet (because I got a lil jelly of missing out on the Challice
). Anyway, the look of the Hornet and Challice grew on me so I had to have one. The Hornet has a lot of material in the center pin and drilling with my equipment wasn't going to happen. So I took a dremel and cut channels down the sides of the center pin. Works perfect and drains perfect. Saw it on here from someone a while back and figured it was worth a shot. Just another option for you if you're gonna convert to BF. Hoping the little channel at the base of the center pin is visible.
note my custom screw, Hornet cap is snug and no room for reg screws. Little grindy grindy and its all good.
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Hi Ernie! Well lucky you! I got mine from a indy vape shop in Greenhills so I'm pretty sure you'll get yours at bargain price compared to mine! Extra feed hole?.... like two feed holes? The Cyclone and the Era are the only BF options there. Era has been discontinued but I'm trying to arrange a deal for a comeback. You'll still find one or two BF versions from stores that carry them.
I started with 36mg to get off 1.5 PAD Kool habit. Worked down to dripping 18mg over 2.5 years, Then dropped to 15mg when I discovered BF and RBAs. I think this is where I'll stay. Played with 12mg but like 15 better.
Funny story, I ordered a Hornet from Indy Vape Shop (in the US), they sent me an ERA by accident. Just mailed it back to them in return for the Hornet I ordered. So I know they have at least ONE.
Edit: It was a TF version, so is the Hornet. Which I'm kinda glad, I am liking the channel down the center pin deal way better than the hole in post on my Cyclone; may just cut a channel in my cyclone also.
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While I'll definitely get it cheaper than prices abroad, it'll still be around local retail. Manufacturers here will still sell at retail price to protect their distributors since if they sold it at a discount, then everyone will just go straight to them.
The extra feed hole is to help drainage. My experience with the Hornet (which has a similar feed system with the Cyclone) showed it had a tendency to flood because the high feed hole prevented proper drainage. Unfortunately they said they couldn't drill the extra hole for me because their machines are pre-configured and aligned for the normal feed system. That's ok though, I'll just find someone else to do it.
How much did you get the gold version for? I assume it's brass?
without tawad, (haggling) the gold version is ₱500 ( $11.10 ) more than the SS AFC set. As far as plating, I'd have to set up my eddy current machine to determine the IACS value or conductivity to find out if this is brass or something else. What I noticed though is that it doesn't tarnish at all unlike brass where a finger print darkens the finish.
I was 1.5 PAD as well. I find I'm doing more chain vaping at 18mg, so I can't imagine going lower at this time. Maybe some day, though TBH I don't have any goals to go to 0 and quit.
Same here no plans to drop or quit. I had to drop my nic 3 mg to 15. Since BF is so much easier than dripping I started vapping more and was getting nic buzz.
I don't have plans to stop vaping but I would like off the nic. I chain vape so if I'm awake I'm vaping. Probably why 6mgs works for me. 
Heres my chalice build video.
Micro Coil In Mark Bugs Chalice Tutorial - YouTube
I use my OliveR to set it up
I finally got to watch this. What's the reason for the proprietary screws? Why didn't the designer use normal screws given that these small screws get lost all the time?
Great tutorial as always Supe!
My take is it's a very clever design. The screw actually bits into the coil wire. So I expected no performance issues from a screw working loose.
Thanks bro
Mark Bugs doesn't source anything but raw materials for this atty to the best of my knowledge. These screws are no exception. They are implant grade titanium and work very well like my man filthy says.
In his chalice thread I stated that I was gonna get several sets of extras and his response was something along the lines of "mate, it takes us many days to make a few hundred screws".
The only limitation to some people would be wire thicker than 29 ga. They don't like 28 ga too much.
Check em out:
Old on right new on left
Their like $9 a pair.
They are the tires and the chalice is the F458. One hell of a high performance piece but definitely not for everyone
Been burning the candle at both ends lately and haven't caught up on this thread since the weekend but I thought I would do a quick drive by to thank pdib.
First the disclaimer pdib, autocad, and others have already said, the OliveR works great out of the box as-is as long as you keep it clean and tuned.
I put in one of those new springs you sent me. (silver plated BeCu) And...... My 007 hits like a train all day long now (no Noalox). I'm getting a smoking hot vape on my new LG batteries all the way down to 3.6V.
But also as most of you know my ADV is a .4Ω dual Nichrome 80, 12 wrap with 1/16th ID on a AFC Cyclone. This particular setup is somewhat demanding and I had found myself doing daily cleaning or pushing the button with sideways force.
Again the stock OliveR will melt a single coil setup off the posts (.4Ω - .8Ω subΩ) no problem.
More to come and pics when I get more time.
Again, I can't thank you enough pdib for your awesome customer service.
First the disclaimer pdib, autocad, and others have already said, the OliveR works great out of the box as-is as long as you keep it clean and tuned.
I put in one of those new springs you sent me. (silver plated BeCu) And...... My 007 hits like a train all day long now (no Noalox). I'm getting a smoking hot vape on my new LG batteries all the way down to 3.6V.
But also as most of you know my ADV is a .4Ω dual Nichrome 80, 12 wrap with 1/16th ID on a AFC Cyclone. This particular setup is somewhat demanding and I had found myself doing daily cleaning or pushing the button with sideways force.
Again the stock OliveR will melt a single coil setup off the posts (.4Ω - .8Ω subΩ) no problem.
More to come and pics when I get more time.
Again, I can't thank you enough pdib for your awesome customer service.
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Started at 36 also, worked down to 12 for a bit but moved back up to 18 +-3 depending on DIY flavor (TH dependent)
My son however has moved all the way to 0 and only vapes when on break at work when the others smoke.
So happy I got him into vaping and off smoking.
Course he didn't smoke for over 30 years and also everyone is different with the psychological dependence aspect.
like I said, X-pup, that spring material is "experimental". I haven't had it analyzed. Under a magnifier, you might notice that it looks like a really thick coating of "silver". And it's called "silver coated beryllium copper", not silver plated. (?)
No idea as to how long it'll hold it's springiness. In any case, all we can do is try. Keep us posted on how it holds up!
I've now got some in my mod too (with my enlarged hole in plate). So I'll be watching it, trying it out alongside y'all. Also, had a little fun last night and rebuilt my whole 510+post, nuts, BeCu leaf contact (finally switched my brass one out to the dibi standard BeCu). Took a little under 10 minutes; but, admittedly, I've had a little practice. Also, between T-cad's and Mundy's experiments, I've been inspired to raise my battery (switched from 1/8" CS o-ring to 3/32" Wall), swap my aluminum contact screw out for brass (#8/32 pan head machine screw w/ the head pared down to 3/32" thick) alongside the BeCu spring upgrade. New parts and clean parts always hit good.*
*This, I've been wondering about. The superstitious, unscientific part of me thinks that current-conducting parts wear out with time. ??????? (crazy, I know). It almost seems like you can't ever clean (even resurface and polish) stuff to get it to hit like stuff that's new (i.e. hasn't been conducting current for a number of months).
On a boring, secretarial level. I had asked that people inform me if they want one of these BeCu springs included with their order, or if they want one for their "already dibi". This was due to scarce resources. Since I've scored enough of the stuff for 200+ springs (not an eternal fountain, but not "bank run" panic time either), there's no need to ask me to "set one aside for you in run#9". I'm not gonna keep track of that. There's enough springs for everyone on the list and +. Do let me know if you want one when I'm building your mod (or a substitute for existing).
No idea as to how long it'll hold it's springiness. In any case, all we can do is try. Keep us posted on how it holds up!
I've now got some in my mod too (with my enlarged hole in plate). So I'll be watching it, trying it out alongside y'all. Also, had a little fun last night and rebuilt my whole 510+post, nuts, BeCu leaf contact (finally switched my brass one out to the dibi standard BeCu). Took a little under 10 minutes; but, admittedly, I've had a little practice. Also, between T-cad's and Mundy's experiments, I've been inspired to raise my battery (switched from 1/8" CS o-ring to 3/32" Wall), swap my aluminum contact screw out for brass (#8/32 pan head machine screw w/ the head pared down to 3/32" thick) alongside the BeCu spring upgrade. New parts and clean parts always hit good.*
*This, I've been wondering about. The superstitious, unscientific part of me thinks that current-conducting parts wear out with time. ??????? (crazy, I know). It almost seems like you can't ever clean (even resurface and polish) stuff to get it to hit like stuff that's new (i.e. hasn't been conducting current for a number of months).
On a boring, secretarial level. I had asked that people inform me if they want one of these BeCu springs included with their order, or if they want one for their "already dibi". This was due to scarce resources. Since I've scored enough of the stuff for 200+ springs (not an eternal fountain, but not "bank run" panic time either), there's no need to ask me to "set one aside for you in run#9". I'm not gonna keep track of that. There's enough springs for everyone on the list and +. Do let me know if you want one when I'm building your mod (or a substitute for existing).
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Well, that makes sense... electricity is electron flow, and wouldn't it steal some on the way through completing the circuit from the conducting material? I don't know. But everything subject to friction of any type wears. Heck, even coils wear from conducting the heat.. you can't build a coil that will last forever.
So... seeing as how I don't have one and don't know what parts there are, do you have a part replacement kit ready for everyone who wants to replace their parts to keep them 'like new' every 6 months (or however long it takes the parts to wear)
? I don't think anyone plans to throw out their Dibi in 6 months to get another one... .
I'd like one of the experimental Springs as well please.
Running at .4 - .6 ohms (not sure if this matters), I've been noticing that I've been having to "side push" my button as well and would like to give this a shot to see if it helps.
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