PDIB's Making MODs!

[pdib]

Well, that makes sense... electricity is electron flow, and wouldn't it steal some on the way through completing the circuit from the conducting material? I don't know. But everything subject to friction of any type wears. Heck, even coils wear from conducting the heat.. you can't build a coil that will last forever.

So... seeing as how I don't have one and don't know what parts there are, do you have a part replacement kit ready for everyone who wants to replace their parts to keep them 'like new' every 6 months (or however long it takes the parts to wear)? I don't think anyone plans to throw out their Dibi in 6 months to get another one... .

No. At this point, I'm not going to spend the time making double quantities of everything based on a sneaking rube-ish suspicion that any decent scientist would probably squash between their fingers while my peeps are eager for me to make OliveRs as fast as I can.

plans to throw out their Dibi in 6 months to get another one.

thanks for putting it that way, tho. it's reassuring.

 

[pdib]

I'd like one of the experimental Springs as well please.

Running at .4 - .6 ohms (not sure if this matters), I've been noticing that I've been having to "side push" my button as well and would like to give this a shot to see if it helps.

Yep. Noted.

I'll be shipping replacements in a couple days. Waiting for the requests to congeal and wanting to sink that nail in one blow.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

No. At this point, I'm not going to spend the time making double quantities of everything based on a sneaking rube-ish suspicion that any decent scientist would probably squash between their fingers while my peeps are eager for me to make OliveRs as fast as I can.



thanks for putting it that way, tho. it's reassuring.

Oh come on now, I could use that theory to tell people I need to replace the perfectly good wiring in their home every now and again and hire on a lot more crews........or be run out of town on a rail for bilking people.

 

[gdeal]

ok... just got caught up on this thread... Early on, I had some back and forth with pdib on the spring. I initially swapped out my spring for a BeCu one I had laying around. I got an improvement in test results. What was going on (what I believe was going on) was how the button was being pushed. I think Turbo hit directly on this point. Its not that the device wasnt conductive, it was how the electrons were flowing. If I didnt get good contact with the aluminum bolt to copper plate, current was traveling through the steel spring. So, I needed to adjust how I was pushing the button (a little bit off to side). When I put the BeCu spring in, it didnt matter how I pushed the button, all current paths were happy.

My OliveR just turned 3 (months old), so I bought him a present (BFCyclone with AFC). I also made him a matching traveling cap.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

ok... just got caught up on this thread... Early on, I had some back and forth with pdib on the spring. I initially swapped out my spring for a BeCu one I had laying around. I got an improvement in test results. What was going on (what I believe was going on) was how the button was being pushed. I think Turbo hit directly on this point. Its not that the device wasnt conductive, it was how the electrons were flowing. If I didnt get good contact with the aluminum bolt to copper plate, current was traveling through the steel spring. So, I needed to adjust how I was pushing the button (a little bit off to side). When I put the BeCu spring in, it didnt matter how I pushed the button, all current paths were happy.

My OliveR just turned 3 (months old), so I bought him a present (BFCyclone with AFC). I also made him a matching traveling cap.

Exactly same here. That is why after I put the spring in and cleaned everything and then removed the BeCu strip that bypassed the plate and aluminum bolt I didn't see a difference.

Gosh, that is one sexy looking mod you got there G!

 

[e30ernest]

So in theory, I can use magnets with this mod as long as I press slightly off-center? Or would that create a slightly less than optimal performance?

 

[timk]

Oh man, that is one hot mod!

 

[glassgal]

No. At this point, I'm not going to spend the time making double quantities of everything based on a sneaking rube-ish suspicion that any decent scientist would probably squash between their fingers while my peeps are eager for me to make OliveRs as fast as I can.

thanks for putting it that way, tho. it's reassuring.

That was tongue in cheek! LOL! You are such a crab.

I was talking about springs, metal contact plates and screws that could wear from friction... not parts that have to be hand made...

 

[gdeal]

Exactly same here. That is why after I put the spring in and cleaned everything and then removed the BeCu strip that bypassed the plate and aluminum bolt I didn't see a difference.

Gosh, that is one sexy looking mod you got there G!

Makes sense....yea...pdib is like the Hugh Hefner of wood.

So in theory, I can use magnets with this mod as long as I press slightly off-center? Or would that create a slightly less than optimal performance?

With the stock button and sex bolt might be difficult to find a ring magnet with the right dimensions. The bolt is ~1/4" and the ID of the cap ~ 3/8".

 

[glassgal]

Oh come on now, I could use that theory to tell people I need to replace the perfectly good wiring in their home every now and again and hire on a lot more crews........or be run out of town on a rail for bilking people.

Mundy... you DO have to replace the wiring in homes every now and again... grant you it's every 30-50 years, but it still has to get replaced.

I was joking about 6 months... but it's not like it won't ever happen...

 

[glassgal]

ok... just got caught up on this thread... Early on, I had some back and forth with pdib on the spring. I initially swapped out my spring for a BeCu one I had laying around. I got an improvement in test results. What was going on (what I believe was going on) was how the button was being pushed. I think Turbo hit directly on this point. Its not that the device wasnt conductive, it was how the electrons were flowing. If I didnt get good contact with the aluminum bolt to copper plate, current was traveling through the steel spring. So, I needed to adjust how I was pushing the button (a little bit off to side). When I put the BeCu spring in, it didnt matter how I pushed the button, all current paths were happy.

My OliveR just turned 3 (months old), so I bought him a present (BFCyclone with AFC). I also made him a matching traveling cap.

Wow... is that a great picture!!

 

[bustabo]

Mundy... you DO have to replace the wiring in homes every now and again... grant you it's every 30-50 years, but it still has to get replaced.

I was joking about 6 months... but it's not like it won't ever happen...

Not to be a stickler but the only reason it SHOULD BE replaced is due to safety... Not because the wire doesn't conduct as good.

I've seen many old houses that still had fully functioning and perfectly fine knob and tube wiring.... I wouldn't want to have my kids sleep in a house knowing its using 60+ year old wiring...

Anyways..... Is it run 5 yet?!?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Mundy... you DO have to replace the wiring in homes every now and again... grant you it's every 30-50 years, but it still has to get replaced.

I was joking about 6 months... but it's not like it won't ever happen...

I would really like it if that was the case since I own an electrical contracting company. Electromigration can happen at the scale of interconnects in integrated circuits, but doesn't occur in copper wiring since it just melts first due to heating before it can reach the kind of current densities necessary to actually move ions.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Not to be a stickler but the only reason it SHOULD BE replaced is due to safety... Not because the wire doesn't conduct as good.

I've seen many old houses that still had fully functioning and perfectly fine knob and tube wiring.... I wouldn't want to have my kids sleep in a house knowing its using 60+ year old wiring...

Anyways..... Is it run 5 yet?!?

We do have to replace wiring that has been installed by other than knowledgeable electricians, add capability due the modern amenities (since there only used to be a clock on the kitchen wall a few lights and maybe a toaster 70 to 100 years ago) or just because they want more, and replace electrical devices (switches, receptacles, etc.) due to age. But unless it has been screwed with by animals, humans, or other physical damage (settling of structure, corrosion, etc.) the copper wire itself doesn't degrade. Just went to a 60 year old house last week and talked a lady out of upgrading the fuse panel to a breaker panel because it was in pristine condition (I inspected connections, buss structure, etc.) and looked like it had been installed yesterday. Also checked and there was not a hint of cobbling of the wiring in the attic or crawl by "lakers" (a term used by some MEP's around here for those who think they know how to do everything, but 99% of the time they are wrong, and they seem to be most populous at one of the lakes nearby) and it had all the correct sized fuses in it (which is very unusual). Turns out she is the original owner and lives a simple life so she doesn't have more electrical needs than what her electrical system can already accommodate. When I asked her if she was having any problems with the electrical she said no, but she was concerned because one of her neighbors had had a fire and had seen one of our trucks at that house doing the repair work. I assured her that what happened at her neighbors house was not due to aging wiring. The whole story is that her neighbor had bought one of those cheap hardware store recessed can lights and installed it like the "helpful" guy at the store had told him. The can wasn't IC rated and the "helpful" guy at the hardware store didn't ask (or didn't know better) if it was going to be installed with insulation around it (like they almost always are).

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

Yeah, we have a house built in 1968 which is aluminum wiring. At some point all of the outlets were pigtailed with copper but we had our electrician check all of them and he said they were okay. We then had him instal a new breaker box as it had things like the fridge, stove and drier all on one breaker Also, we have a lot of computer stuff so we have extended the breaker box and ran copper for all our computers. Bottom line hiring a good electrician will save you so much in the long run. I could tell horror stories of the DIY nightmares we saw while looking for a house. *shudders*

 

[turbocad6]

I got my chalice in, looks great on the dibi but with the brushed finish I think i'm going to brush the copper plate so it matches better. I also want to make a copper atty seat/drip well thing for this if it winds up taking to the dibi as a permanent home funny, I'm the first one to grind the head down of my metal reo drip well flush so it can fit larger atties, yet here on the dibi I may wind up doing the exact opposite, adding a drip well and restricting it to 14mm atties the chalice looks great sitting in a drip well though

I've also did some more research on the whole contact thing and while it is true that silver is the best conductor possible but copper is very close to pure silver in conductivity, the difference is when it oxidises, that's where silver really shines, oxidised silver still conducts better while oxidised than any other metal even when it's not oxidised, so that's where it's at, silver silver plating not as effective, even gold plating not as effective as just pure silver, pure silver contacts will severely reduce the whole pita that is a mech I think, this is probably why I hate all the mechs I've ever had except my poldiac. that thing hits as reliably as my dna's and I've never had to even ever touch the contacts. I think that's what this dibi really needs to be a true hot rod monster, silver guts

I did a little research and pure silver, .999% is not ridiculously expensive. I mean it is a little expensive but not terribly so. I think I can do the whole guts for ~$100 or so in pure silver, hell I spent more that that on my wood for this mod and it don't conduct anything I've found a few jewelry supply places to buy it from. if I'm going to embrace this whole mech thing then for me I think silver is ultimately where it's at, reduce all the maintenance of a mech and make it as reliable as an electronic, sounds good to me

 

[super_X_drifter]

Turbo, those chalices look bad AYuss. Whatcha think of it? Was it what you were expected?

That escutcheon you made for your woodvil looks vulcan bad AYuss too

 

[Rossum]

But unless it has been screwed with by animals, humans, or other physical damage (settling of structure, corrosion, etc.) the copper wire itself doesn't degrade. Just went to a 60 year old house last week and talked a lady out of upgrading the fuse panel to a breaker panel because it was in pristine condition

Need more work? Come on down to the Florida beaches. Stuff here corrodes like mad; even high-grade stainless steels turn brown outside. I replaced the panel in a house less than 20 years old a couple of years ago 'cause the bus bars in it looked like hell and some of the breakers constantly needed to be re-seated. I'm seriously thinking that my dibi should never come here.

 

[Rossum]

Another show-off! What is this, a Richard swinging contest?

Seriously, the Woody with the brass-covered DNA -- WOW. I doubt I would like the way that feels in my hand, but WOW all the same.

 

[turbocad6]

Russ I really can't say much yet, just got them. tonight I'll build and see, still not sold on the whole coil in the center away from the air hole deal but I guess I'll see how it goes, not so sure what I'd have to mod to make it more friendly to a side mount coil or if I even need to do anything there yet I was considering polishing the chalice but so far the satin finish isn't bothering me as much as I thought it would

what parts of this aty are Ti and what parts are SS? I don't even know. is it just the screws alone that are Ti, or ???


the reo is not done yet, still need to make the buttons and everything. I'm not thrilled with the results but it's not so bad. it was more of a pita because I epoxied the dna into the mod before building the cover which was not the best way to do this but I was impatient and wanted it dna'd right away, next one I'll build the cover to receive the dna into the cover instead, and then the whole thing will mount to the mod as an assy, but this one didn't come out that bad really considering I had to build it around the dna already epoxied in.

part of me wants to dna the dibi just because of the challenge it would be, but a bigger part of me I guess is now excited about building it into a heavy hitting super reliable mech too