I haven't gotten the page to load to get a RM2, so I am stuck with the Killers and Eternity for the time being.
PDIB's Making MODs!
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Yeah, I've heard the A7 is tricky, wiggly 510+, shorts out a little too eagerly. Not sayin', just sayin'.
Someone really oughta jump on that! That first link . . .. $2.50-3.00 a piece .. . .minimum order: 1.
If I only knew someone who's set up to mod a bunch of these.
You know what's sad? I have no idea what group I'm in...hey PDIBS what group am I in???
Chil', you in the ign'ant group.
If you find him/her I would be in for a few. Have quite a few friends who want to try rba's and these are the most user friendly I know of!
Someone really oughta jump on that! That first link . . .. $2.50-3.00 a piece .. . .minimum order: 1.
If I only knew someone who's set up to mod a bunch of these.
a lot of the chinese manufacturers only ship DHL which can get expensive.
assuming this one is the same as the one indyvaporshop sells, it is already a bottom-feeder and just needs the cap drilled. shipping is pricey unless you order a handful. this is the lowest cost bottom-feeder i know of.
the A6 is similar but is not a bottom-feeder, but comes with a drilled topcap, which fits the A6S-- for the (cough) lazy man's approach. fasttech just started selling the A6 with free shipping. if enough ppl put in a product request, mebbe they'll start carrying the A6s.
ETA: vaporbank also sells these
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Someone really oughta jump on that! That first link . . .. $2.50-3.00 a piece .. . .minimum order: 1.
If I only knew someone who's set up to mod a bunch of these.
let me do a few experiments this sunday, and if all goes well, i can probably mod the majority of the atty's that aren't set up for bottom feeders.
To mod the Triangle atty for bottom feed...
Take one Triangle atty:
Then pull the cap and center section off. Discard center section.
Then pull the 3 posts out.
Then pull the positive pin.
Then comes the fun part; drilling the postitive pin...
I drill it at an angle for reasons that will become obvious shortly... You could just cut a channel up the side of it with a dremmel if you like.
Next, you need to create a path for juice to flow.
You need to dremmel or file this piece to look like this:
Then cut your ceramic something like this:
Now you'll have a path for the juice to flow.
Now you can put it back together...
Now you'll need to figure out where you want your air hole to be, and drill it out.
And there you have it:
Note: The triangle will have a high lip around the ceramic base that you'll need to mill, grind, sand, file, or dremmel down to be almost flush with the ceramic.
Clear as mud???
YEAHHHHR BABY!
i really want to make my immortalizer a B/F atty, but that will take a little more planning. but if i can figure it out this sunday ill definitely be sure to take pictures of the process
Now, here's something I'd like to add . . .. I've switched the negative post on some of my RM2s from the hole it was in to the other (the juice feed hole). This leads me to wonder how much of that internal modification is really necessary. The only way we'd find out is it someone was modding one, and skipped a couple of steps in surgery, just to see what happens. BTW, can that ceramic base be drilled out? If one could just drill straight up the center post, and then use that as a collar (in situ) to guide the bit and drill through the center of the ceramic . . .. what would happen? Would that be good? Bad?
ceramic is really brittle.... but i imagine if you piloted it without breaking it you could do so. I mean they had to drill the holes somehow....
edit: i think i might try and use the pre-existing holes in the ceramic deck on the immortalizer just to see. I largely suspect at one point it may have been in the design to make it a b/f but then they decided against it because there are 4 holes in the deck right in the center of the atty. So if all i have to do is put down an oring (to seal the bottom deck) and use the holes in the deck... that would be easy, and super quick.
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you prolly need to clear cookies and/or cache. that usually fixes it.
If you could manage to drill the ceramic in the center, you could leave all three posts in for runnin' duals...
While we are drilling out attys, the A6 is bit less complex, but a similar process for disassemble as C-C described. (Great walk through BTW!)
Unscrew the 510 screw. Then unscrew center post. Drill hole through the center of the 510 screw, then drill a side hole in the center post. I used a 1/16" bit for both. Reassemble.
I also opened up the existing airhole to 1/16" as well, (which is quite a bit easier than creating a new hole in SS).
Unscrew the 510 screw. Then unscrew center post. Drill hole through the center of the 510 screw, then drill a side hole in the center post. I used a 1/16" bit for both. Reassemble.
I also opened up the existing airhole to 1/16" as well, (which is quite a bit easier than creating a new hole in SS).
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