I'm sorry if I sound ignorant but isn't the button there with a plastic part that only pushes the copper leaf to touch the center long rod?
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
PDIB's Making MODs!
- Thread starter pdib
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'm sorry if I sound ignorant but isn't the button there with a plastic part that only pushes the copper leaf to touch the center long rod?
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
The copper leaf actually carries the current from the other end of the battery. the big shinny screw is what get's pushed down by the button and that screw carries the current from the top of battery and it needs to transfer to the copper plate and does so by either touching the plate or through the spring inside the button assembly.
Oh that was totally ignorant from my side. Didn't know the leaf is stationary. But well maybe my design is better
pushing the leaf to close the circuit and then the spring wouldn't play a role, but then again it would become like a Reo. Just blabbering. Carry on.Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
I'm a compulsive feedback checker. My concern here would be fake batteries, because we all know it's possible ... I save the photo of what I buy, match it to what I got, and then go find the pix of what the real deal (and possible fakes) labeling looks like.
That said, he's got a 99.9% rating because of THIS neutral:
Leads you to believe there actual litecoins r***a ( 19Yellow star icon for feedback score in between 10 to 49) Mar-25-14 08:28
Reply by daveksbasement (Mar-25-14 17:53):
What? Clearly stated: "This coin has no physical or monetary value..."
1x Physical Litecoin 25 LTC 1oz. .999 Fine Silver Plated Coin 2014 Edition USA! (#231177383939) US $14.99 View Item
Click on the item, this is what it says:
Now.. I don't have a clue what a 'litecoin' is, but I know it has nothing to do with batteries. I looked at the listing, says it's not real silver, and commemorative, so the buyer's complaint sounds silly, even if it were real money.
His 1 negative out of 625 ratings in 6 months was from a buyer who bought a used phone in 2013 and wanted a refund, and his response was it stated clearly no refunds.
Don't think those negatives, out of well over 2100 positives mostly for batteries, would indicate he was an unsafe seller of batteries?!
How did you decide he was? You know someone who bought bad batteries from him?
We're clearly looking at two different sellers. The seller pdib mentioned in his post, LG HE2 18650 35 Amp High Drain 2500mAh Rechargeable Battery Flat Top | eBay has 24 negatives in 1 month alone. And many more after that. I do purchase from eBay, but I don't think I'd buy from this one.
Doing a little experiment with the materials I have on hand. Wanting to approximate using a threaded silver rod plug at the contact end of the battery assembly. Curious as to how it tarnishes, and how it performs when tarnished. This is a length of my Ag/BeCu spring material. Small contact surface area, so maybe it'll prove good/bad faster. Who knows what kin'a silver this is. So, real scientific, am I. When I first assembled this and fired it up, it singed the hair off my eyeballs and it made a toot-toot sound like a freight train would. (that, however, seems to be the case with any fresh contact assembly)
Oh. My bad. Different seller
. This is the seller I bought mine from: 2X Samsung INR18650 20R 2000mAh 18650 High Current High Drain Batteries | eBayAnd... he doesn't have anymore... because I bought his last ones. Sowwy! I didn't even look to see if he still had any.
Last edited:
Doing a little experiment with the materials I have on hand. Wanting to approximate using a threaded silver rod plug at the contact end of the battery assembly. Curious as to how it tarnishes, and how it performs when tarnished. This is a length of my Ag/BeCu spring material. Small contact surface area, so maybe it'll prove good/bad faster. Who knows what kin'a silver this is. So, real scientific, am I. When I first assembled this and fired it up, it singed the hair off my eyeballs and it made a toot-toot sound like a freight train would. (that, however, seems to be the case with any fresh contact assembly)
Well, this thing continues to hit pretty hard. Dang hard. So, I thought I do a quick DMM probing. Just a peasant reading, nothing fancy. It appears I'm getting about .25V dropped on a .45Ω coil. That's with the rest of the mod "as is", haven't cleaned any other contacts or rebuilt the atty in .. . .. dunno . . . . a week or two? (that's with the Ag/BeCu spring in there. Put that in about a week ago .. . . i think)
i prefer the stiffness of the newer spring. They all vape just fine and i cannot see much difference at all in DMM readings. What i do like is that i have been running sub coils on mine the entire time and HRH never has - her Dibi has never been cleaned and mine has only twice.
Yes yes, i realise she is likely cleaner than me anyway, but whatever way you slice it - it's less maintenance and more vaping/modding!
T
Yes yes, i realise she is likely cleaner than me anyway, but whatever way you slice it - it's less maintenance and more vaping/modding!
T
I don't need a DMM reading to tell that it's taking the skin off my tongue; just to communicate that in a measurable and comparable fashion.
Smart you are Jedi Bee! Good job with minimal intrusiveness. That drop is almost comparable to the full bypass strip and full silver contact, factoring in coil resistance difference and the fact you are riding bareback it is within .04V at my resistance assuming you measured with a fresh battery and it has the same internal resistance. <==Lots of ASSumtions I made there!
Any idea what drop you are getting from the battery?
HAH! you call THAT communicating?
THIS is how it's done.... old school baby.
yay ECF is up!!!!!
Sounds like a good measurement to me. That's how I've been doing it. At first impression which hit harder off the bat, the brass screw or the silver coated copper wire aluminum screw?
Just wondering because I got sucked in by a small ACE hole in the wall out in the toolies and came across the same brass screw you posted the other day. I picked up 10 and was going to give em a vape. The idea of a fresh disposable contact sounded good to me.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modder-accessories-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods-288.html#post12670073
Just wondering because I got sucked in by a small ACE hole in the wall out in the toolies and came across the same brass screw you posted the other day. I picked up 10 and was going to give em a vape. The idea of a fresh disposable contact sounded good to me.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modder-accessories-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods-288.html#post12670073
touché
Hey that's pretty neat!
Edit: in reply to dibs new invention. Tapatalk don't make no sense lol.
Edit: in reply to dibs new invention. Tapatalk don't make no sense lol.
Last edited:
subjective: alum. with the little piece of wire. I want to give it a few days to see if it fades or not; and then I'll swap in a fresh (clean) brass screw to compare (to try and confirm).
Last edited:
Hey, was just doing some research and got almost all the way through before I realized that this kind of reference material is exactly what inspired the "Turboencabulator", then I couldn't read it again without bursting into chuckles. Here is one section of it.
"The power stage equations and transfer functions for CrCM are the same as CCM. The main differences relate to the current ripple profile and switching frequency, which affects RMS and switching power losses and filter design. CCM operation requires a larger filter inductor compared to CrCM. While the main design concerns for a CrCM inductor are low HF core loss, low HF winding loss, and stable value over the operating range (the inductor is essentially part of the timing circuit), the CCM mode inductor takes a different approach. For the CCM mode PFC, the full load inductor current ripple is typically designed to be 20-40% of the average input current. This has several advantages:
(1) Peak current is lower, and the RMS current factor with a trapezoidal waveform is reduced compared to a triangular waveform, reducing conduction losses (Fig 3.2).
(2) Turn off losses are lower due to switch off at much lower maximum current.
(3) The HF ripple current to be smoothed by the EMI filter is much lower in amplitude.
On the other side, CCM encounters turn on losses with the MOSFET, which can be exacerbated by the boost rectifier commutation recovery loss due to Qrr. For this reason, ultra-fast recovery diodes or silicon carbide schottky diodes with no charge Qrr are needed for CCM mode."
"The power stage equations and transfer functions for CrCM are the same as CCM. The main differences relate to the current ripple profile and switching frequency, which affects RMS and switching power losses and filter design. CCM operation requires a larger filter inductor compared to CrCM. While the main design concerns for a CrCM inductor are low HF core loss, low HF winding loss, and stable value over the operating range (the inductor is essentially part of the timing circuit), the CCM mode inductor takes a different approach. For the CCM mode PFC, the full load inductor current ripple is typically designed to be 20-40% of the average input current. This has several advantages:
(1) Peak current is lower, and the RMS current factor with a trapezoidal waveform is reduced compared to a triangular waveform, reducing conduction losses (Fig 3.2).
(2) Turn off losses are lower due to switch off at much lower maximum current.
(3) The HF ripple current to be smoothed by the EMI filter is much lower in amplitude.
On the other side, CCM encounters turn on losses with the MOSFET, which can be exacerbated by the boost rectifier commutation recovery loss due to Qrr. For this reason, ultra-fast recovery diodes or silicon carbide schottky diodes with no charge Qrr are needed for CCM mode."
- Status
Similar threads
