PDIB's Making MODs!

[glassgal]

Better to just file it and noalox it then fit the sub-ohm kit when that comes out.

Gluing bits of metal is frowned up in metal mods (well - most mods for that matter) as is using magnets on top of flat top batteries. But i do it anyway.
Since i'm sure you are more particular about your looks than i am, follow the advice in line 1

T

GLUING magnets on top of flat tops works to make them into button tops?? OOOH!!!

Why is that frowned on?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

But what about the idea of gluing a small plate to the point to fire flat top batteries? Bad idea?

Rob has the new sub ohm pieces in hand from what I understand so it shouldn't be but a week or two before they are available. My understanding is they will work with flat tops. Else, make your own out of a brass .010" feeler gauge like below or similar with the end rolled up. I don't have a pic of the one I have in it now, but it is wider and not back folded, just rolled.

 

[supertrunker]

I'd vape it like I stole it. But I would not subject it to potentially damaging environments

Yeah you would, because right now nothing vapes as well, so you settle for a less than optimal vape to keep the Dibi from harm?

Pfft - if i break it - i'll steal HRHs and get on the list for another in 2018!


T

 

[X-Puppy]

The first time you see sparks when the firing pin (tongue) meets the battery you have oxidization and contamination and much less, if any, continuity. You need to keep your OX-Guard or electrolytic grease from the auto store on there at all times. Once oxidized, like FB said, you have to file the firing pin to get it working again.

I also run flat tops in mine and after the firing pin is filed a few times it doesn't contact flat tops very well. You loose the tip and it starts to get flat. When this happened to me the quick fix was to bend the very tip of the firing pin downward towards the battery a little to persuade it to meet the battery. The best fix is a rebuild kit. The ultimate fix of course will be the new contacts when the come out. They're supposed to be flat top battery friendly.

Finger nail file is not good enough. You need a real metal file, and don't be shy.

Bad idea to connect anything to the existing firing pin. Better to replace it with brass if you're thinking along those lines. Its a long read but all the info is is the following thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring.html

SeaNap put a little directory here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hts-gentlemen-may-i-present.html#post12243449

More specifics on the firing pin mod:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/467679-dz-mod-ok-pdib-too.html

 

[glassgal]

THAT's exactly what I was talking about!!!!!

I just assumed that using a better conductive material would work better... actually, I don't need a strip of anything, I have both fine silver and cooper wire laying around already... can I just glue one of them to the point to make it poke down enough to work with flat tops? My question was... how do you ATTACH it to the flat tongue thing? Must it be soldered (your pix looks soldered)?

Also, if I got the Reo sub-ohm kit from Rob, it would allow flat tops AND sub-ohming, but still work exactly the same with higher ohm coils too right?

Rob has the new sub ohm pieces in hand from what I understand so it shouldn't be but a week or two before they are available. My understanding is they will work with flat tops. Else, make your own out of a brass .010" feeler gauge like below or similar with the end rolled up. I don't have a pic of the one I have in it now, but it is wider and not back folded, just rolled.

 

[glassgal]

Oh... would wrapping fine silver wire around and around the end point of the metal tongue do the same thing? What about wrapping it around and around the point, then MELTING it so it's a fused lump? Do air gaps affect the conductivity of the silver?

 

[supertrunker]

'persuasion' huh Puppy! i just stick a magnet on top of the battery (no need to glue it GG). i'm up for a rebuild kit.

HRH went shopping today and bought me a pencil eraser. It's called a 'pink pearl' which would be a good name for - anyway my Dibi now has no pencil marks on it, which i suppose counts as cleaning in this thread.

T

 

[X-Puppy]

THAT's exactly what I was talking about!!!!!

I just assumed that using a better conductive material would work better... actually, I don't need a strip of anything, I have both fine silver and cooper wire laying around already... can I just glue one of them to the point to make it poke down enough to work with flat tops? My question was... how do you ATTACH it to the flat tongue thing? Must it be soldered (your pix looks soldered)?

Also, if I got the Reo sub-ohm kit from Rob, it would allow flat tops AND sub-ohming, but still work exactly the same with higher ohm coils too right?

Stay away from the glue!

Things can get hot in there, you can't count on glue.

 

[X-Puppy]

'persuasion' huh Puppy! i just stick a magnet on top of the battery (no need to glue it GG). i'm up for a rebuild kit.

HRH went shopping today and bought me a pencil eraser. It's called a 'pink pearl' which would be a good name for - anyway my Dibi now has no pencil marks on it, which i suppose counts as cleaning in this thread.

T

I've tried the magnets from radio shack and they work ok. They stick pretty good too. Just make sure they don't move.

(Its not a recommended practice)

 

[Alexander Mundy]

THAT's exactly what I was talking about!!!!!

I just assumed that using a better conductive material would work better... actually, I don't need a strip of anything, I have both fine silver and cooper wire laying around already... can I just glue one of them to the point to make it poke down enough to work with flat tops? My question was... how do you ATTACH it to the flat tongue thing? Must it be soldered (your pix looks soldered)?

Also, if I got the Reo sub-ohm kit from Rob, it would allow flat tops AND sub-ohming, but still work exactly the same with higher ohm coils too right?

It is a complete replacement for the firing pin I made, one piece. What you see is Noalox that got there inadvertently. Yes, the sub ohm kit will work for non sub ohm as well and will increase the battery life (More so with sub ohm, but still some with non sub ohm) from less voltage drop.

 

[glassgal]

The first time you see sparks when the firing pin (tongue) meets the battery you have oxidization and contamination and much less, if any, continuity. You need to keep your OX-Guard or electrolytic grease from the auto store on there at all times. Once oxidized, like FB said, you have to file the firing pin to get it working again.

I also run flat tops in mine and after the firing pin is filed a few times it doesn't contact flat tops very well. You loose the tip and it starts to get flat. When this happened to me the quick fix was to bend the very tip of the firing pin downward towards the battery a little to persuade it to meet the battery. The best fix is a rebuild kit. The ultimate fix of course will be the new contacts when the come out. They're supposed to be flat top battery friendly.

Finger nail file is not good enough. You need a real metal file, and don't be shy.

Bad idea to connect anything to the existing firing pin. Better to replace it with brass if you're thinking along those lines. Its a long read but all the info is is the following thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring.html

SeaNap put a little directory here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hts-gentlemen-may-i-present.html#post12243449

More specifics on the firing pin mod:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/467679-dz-mod-ok-pdib-too.html

Thanks! It's working pretty good now, but I'll get the sub-ohm kit anyway, since I have a lot of flat top batteries, and very few buttons.

 

[glassgal]

I've tried the magnets from radio shack and they work ok. They stick pretty good too. Just make sure they don't move.

(Its not a recommended practice)

Why isn't it a recommended practice? My e-pipe has a magnet to hold the firing button right now (but it also has a circuit board at the bottom too).

 

[glassgal]

Thanks guys!!!

 

[Rossum]

My BF fail saga continues:

I fiddled with the centerpin a bit more and got the empty Cyclone reading close to a half ohm.

So I dug up my gunsmithing screwdriver set. One of the tips fit the slot in the center pin perfectly. I clamped the atty upside down in a bench vise and started unscrewing. This took quite a bit of force at the beginning but eventually loosened up. I kept at it and after a while, I was able to get the center pin assembly out.

Inspecting it under a lighted 2x and 5x magnifier revealed no obvious source for the short, so I put it back together -- and got the same results as before, now about 0.44 ohms. The only plausible explanation I can came up with is that there's a piece of something conductive embedded in that insulator. That means I have to find something that's the right size with which to drift out that insulator.

Oh, and a rant/digression: The atty tester I picked up... The ON/OFF switch will not budge from the ON position. But since I bought it locally, I'm confident they'll swap it out for one that works as it should. Still, this seems like yet another sign that I should put #0002 in away in the safe for a while.

 

[X-Puppy]

A few pages back ValHeli gave us a link to Rip Trippers review of the zenith:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modder-accessories-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods-202.html#post12443932

I gave it my first impressions here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modder-accessories-supplier-forum/511889-pdibs-making-mods-239.html#post12567846
With the AFC Cyclone (BF) and the Origin V2 (BF) to compare it to, I think the Zenith V2 (Not BF) is better. Very noticeably better – better flavor and vapor production. The Origin V2 is pretty awesome so I won’t say way better. (But I was tempted)

The only drawback to the Zenith is that it’s not BF and the rumor of the BF option has not come true (Not but yet but I hope).

So I became impatient and decided to mod the center pin on the zenith for bottom feeding - easier said than done with nothing but hand tools. This became painfully apparent when I spent most of a day and 4 cobalt bits wrecking the Zenith center pin.

Not one to give up easily and unwilling to scrap such a nice dripper I started digging through my spare parts and came up with an idea. I found that the spare insulators I picked up for my cyclones fit perfectly in the positive pin bore of the Zenith. I have a few spare cyclones sitting around so I decided to fit a cyclone center pin into the Zenith. Removing the cyclone BF center pin was the hardest part. (I detailed the process a few posts back). Installing the cyclone BF pin into the Zenith was a little work but not near as hard as it was to first get it out of the cyclone.

Here’s the finished part:

Cyclone insulator and BF center pin:

Notice how high off the deck the coil needs to be in order to match up to the air holes on the cap ring:

The height of the coil requires a dripper style cotton bed - even though now its bottom fed:

Dual coil 26g nichrome 1/16 ID, 12/13 wrap @ .43Ω after burn-in:

Final conclusions – I agree with Rip Tripper’s conclusions. There might be a better vape out there, but I haven’t found it yet. After initial juice priming, a normal squonk is a 5 second squeeze followed by 6 or 7 full tasty, chewy yummy room filling vape’s. Thick tasty clouds over and over again, I’m not kidding, it’s great, I love it. Having dripped it with several different juices over the last 2 weeks I can say it’s equally delicious with sweet juices as it is with tobacco juices……. It was worth it!

 

[Rossum]

Wait, I'm pretty sure I found it. I should have noticed this burr sticking out of the bottom of the slot in the screw/centerpin the last time. It's even sorta visible in the picture in my previous post...

 

[X-Puppy]

Why isn't it a recommended practice? My e-pipe has a magnet to hold the firing button right now (but it also has a circuit board at the bottom too).

Its not likely but if it moves and goes someplace you don't want it, it could cause a runaway short that you cant just turn off. You'd have to know enough to dump the battery real quick. (Which isn't a bad thing to learn anyway).

 

[glassgal]

Wait, I'm pretty sure I found it. I should have noticed this burr sticking out of the bottom of the slot in the screw/centerpin the last time. It's even sorta visible in the picture in my previous post...

Hrm. Makes me glad I only bought cheap atomizers that work flawlessly... *ducks and runs away*

 

[X-Puppy]

Wait, I'm pretty sure I found it. I should have noticed this burr sticking out of the bottom of the slot in the screw/centerpin the last time. It's even sorta visible in the picture in my previous post...

That's not a burr - that's adhesive. I found the same stuff on mine after I pulled it out. You might have a metal shaving run through your insulator?

I think that's why they're such a B@#$h to get out.

 

[X-Puppy]

Hrm. Makes me glad I only bought cheap atomizers that work flawlessly... *ducks and runs away*

LOL

I just have more money than good sense.