Fine. Easy shot:
Well, looks like inbreeding did HER body good
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Well, looks like inbreeding did HER body good
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PDIB's Making MODs!
- Thread starter pdib
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Well that depends on the gene markers. Oh, and whether your in to vestigial tails.
Ok, I'll be good now
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Ok, I'll be good now
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I don't think chats by the illegal still count as a confessional
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Damnit timk why did u open the floodgate? Lol
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I come from some hearty peasant stock myself. Dang proud of it.
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Wow, ebay auction is tough. I bid on about 5 items and only won one.
Australian Red Mallee
But what a beauty you won
!!
I'm not sure I follow all your logic here. To my way of thinking: Surface area is good for vapor production while mass is bad because it makes the coil slow to respond, no?
If we think about the coil as a cylinder and we want a certain amount of surface area inside it, then we can reduce the mass by making the walls of that cylinder thinner; i.e. using a thinner gauge wire. But this increases the resistance of the coil and to put the same power into it, we need more voltage.
Anyway, I'm hoping the local vape shop has some 26 gauge wire. I'm headed there anyway to swap out the atty tester for one with a working ON/OFF switch.
surface area and mass are not always parallel, I find that I need a certain amount of mass at higher power or it burns the wick too easily on longer pulls. I can't get a good vape with only 4-5 wraps. the best way I've found to get enough power and enough mass when limited to 4v is to use dual coils. with a pair of duals I can get enough mass to handle the power for my vape and get it low enough to use a good amount of power. on a vv I can build a single that will get me almost the same vape that I need duals for on a mech. I can get a great vape on either one but the vv is just a little easier for me because I can twist up one simple coil.
I'm from New York City, so... I've been holding my tongue between my teeth so hard it's bleeding
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MoN, I'm goin to NYC for the first time in June! Any local spots I should hit up while I'm there? I hear Sbarros is the Bee's Knees.
ok, about dibipinkyitis.... today I have finally found a cure
every mod, no matter how great, is going to have it's little pet peeves or things that just bug you on an otherwise perfect piece of equipment. maybe it's just me, maybe I press too hard or maybe I bang it around too much, maybe I'm just too picky or whatever, but contacts 3 & 4 have been my nemesis on this mod since day one.
truth is this has been the one thing that makes me have to say my dna20 'was' more consistent and reliable when it comes to firing hard every time with every press of the button. I say was, because this is no longer the case at all
I promise I'll never complain about contacts 3 & 4 here again, because after screwing with my dibi this evening I no longer have contacts 3 & 4
I've had all kinds of different ideas of how to do something like this for a while now, some ways I considered were way more complicated than others, some ways required drilling and/or tapping, I did a lot of research on contacts and considered many different options and ways to do it cleanly, but today I decided to just KISS here and just get it done and over with in a very simple, straight forward yet highly effective way. bonus is I did it all with no drilling or modifying the body of dibi in any way. the less intrusive the surgery is, the better it is I guess
I made it as a bolt on swap to full copper contact/full copper guts, with a simple single central slip barrel contact that's way beyond extremely effective and self cleaning with use. this long slip pin also makes my whole top cap pinned down way more tightly attached to the mod, it needs a good firm pull to unseat it and then pull to slide it out for the first 1/2", but otherwise it goes on and off as easy as it did before, snaps into place just as easily but takes a lot more effort to remove it which is a really good thing to me. now I can pick it up and swing it around by the atty without the mod falling off, it's really solid, I made it klutz proof I guess
this gut swap removes just about all voltage drop points, and all of the 'holding it the right way' issues and all 'cap movement' issues and pressing it too hard issues and caps popping up or off issues, now with the clean copper contacts it fires as hard and consistent as my dna with either a feather touch or a hard press, same thing just solid and consistent. I have it adjusted to ~.1mm hair trigger throw of the button and it feels amazing, lightest feather touch and bam, flame thrower every time. I hate to say it but for me it's a night and day difference, I now love how it performs just as much as I love everything else about it. this swap puts the dibi out firmly in front as my #1 favorite mod atm, edging out the dna woody now I think. the woody feels like a walky talky compared to the sleakness of this mod in my hand, and now it performs as perfectly as it feels... the dibi and the reo have traded places several times already as my #1 and #2 favorites, there both great but this mod may just make it the hot rod to beat all others
ok old vs new, pin not inserted
and pin inserted
the upper mounting block
the lower contact now stays semi permanent in the mod, the lower cap now has no electrical function at all, the mod will fire fine even with lower cap off but now battery must be removed from the top
here's the upper pin mounted. the orange thing is a piece of bottle feed tubing to insulate and make sure it can't short out to anything with movement
now it just pops together and it's one solid thing, I funneled the top of the hole in the center shaft open a bit so it just goes in and lines up really easily without even looking or fiddling much at all
last thing it needs to be complete is to replace the aluminum upper button hat with copper, and I want to reinforce the base a little more too
every mod, no matter how great, is going to have it's little pet peeves or things that just bug you on an otherwise perfect piece of equipment. maybe it's just me, maybe I press too hard or maybe I bang it around too much, maybe I'm just too picky or whatever, but contacts 3 & 4 have been my nemesis on this mod since day one.
truth is this has been the one thing that makes me have to say my dna20 'was' more consistent and reliable when it comes to firing hard every time with every press of the button. I say was, because this is no longer the case at all
I promise I'll never complain about contacts 3 & 4 here again, because after screwing with my dibi this evening I no longer have contacts 3 & 4
I've had all kinds of different ideas of how to do something like this for a while now, some ways I considered were way more complicated than others, some ways required drilling and/or tapping, I did a lot of research on contacts and considered many different options and ways to do it cleanly, but today I decided to just KISS here and just get it done and over with in a very simple, straight forward yet highly effective way. bonus is I did it all with no drilling or modifying the body of dibi in any way. the less intrusive the surgery is, the better it is I guess
I made it as a bolt on swap to full copper contact/full copper guts, with a simple single central slip barrel contact that's way beyond extremely effective and self cleaning with use. this long slip pin also makes my whole top cap pinned down way more tightly attached to the mod, it needs a good firm pull to unseat it and then pull to slide it out for the first 1/2", but otherwise it goes on and off as easy as it did before, snaps into place just as easily but takes a lot more effort to remove it which is a really good thing to me. now I can pick it up and swing it around by the atty without the mod falling off, it's really solid, I made it klutz proof I guess
this gut swap removes just about all voltage drop points, and all of the 'holding it the right way' issues and all 'cap movement' issues and pressing it too hard issues and caps popping up or off issues, now with the clean copper contacts it fires as hard and consistent as my dna with either a feather touch or a hard press, same thing just solid and consistent. I have it adjusted to ~.1mm hair trigger throw of the button and it feels amazing, lightest feather touch and bam, flame thrower every time. I hate to say it but for me it's a night and day difference, I now love how it performs just as much as I love everything else about it. this swap puts the dibi out firmly in front as my #1 favorite mod atm, edging out the dna woody now I think. the woody feels like a walky talky compared to the sleakness of this mod in my hand, and now it performs as perfectly as it feels... the dibi and the reo have traded places several times already as my #1 and #2 favorites, there both great but this mod may just make it the hot rod to beat all others
ok old vs new, pin not inserted
and pin inserted
the upper mounting block
the lower contact now stays semi permanent in the mod, the lower cap now has no electrical function at all, the mod will fire fine even with lower cap off but now battery must be removed from the top
here's the upper pin mounted. the orange thing is a piece of bottle feed tubing to insulate and make sure it can't short out to anything with movement
now it just pops together and it's one solid thing, I funneled the top of the hole in the center shaft open a bit so it just goes in and lines up really easily without even looking or fiddling much at all
last thing it needs to be complete is to replace the aluminum upper button hat with copper, and I want to reinforce the base a little more too
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