PDIB's Making MODs!
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For those of you with multiple types of bottom feeders.... how big is the difference in vape quality between your best and worst ones (and which are which)? IS there a huge difference between say the RM2 and the Chalice or Cyclone? What's that difference? Thanks.
Not much difference between those as far as vape quality according to SuperX so I have stuck with pickled RM2's. The small chamber is what makes them so good and I really like the room for a coil due to the offset positive post. My Igo and my Stratus dripper (converted to BF) are not as good due to the larger chambers relative to those. I have an el cheapie octopus dripper that has a good vape due to the small chamber, but it is not a very well built atty and no room for much of a build.
I've used Cyclone, Divo, RM2, Igo-S BF, Chalice. When just rated for vape quality they are very close with subtle difference favoring the smaller chambers for flavor IMHO.
But there are other factors that can be included in the view of a RBA.
Ease of build
Cost
Quality
looks
material
drainage
air hole location.
My personal order is Chalice, Divo, Cyclone, RM2 Igo-s.
But there are other factors that can be included in the view of a RBA.
Ease of build
Cost
Quality
looks
material
drainage
air hole location.
My personal order is Chalice, Divo, Cyclone, RM2 Igo-s.
Ok, great answers. That's what I thought too... the biggest difference is what you put in them, and not the bf themselves. I haven't noticed much difference either, so wondered why I'd want to spend $175 for one besides the looks (which is a good reason). But thought maybe there was a big difference in function. The offset post in the RM2 is a good point... hadn't thought about that.
. That's what I thought too... the biggest difference is what you put in them, and not the bf themselves. I haven't noticed much difference either, so wondered why I'd want to spend $175 for one besides the looks (which is a good reason). But thought maybe there was a big difference in function. The offset post in the RM2 is a good point... hadn't thought about that.
I personally dislike the offset posts. I much prefer the Chalice for the coil directly over the drain, the way it drains, and the fact that the airhole is always in the right place with respect to the coil. It's a little more difficult to get the coil in place, but I don't recoil that often. Rewick & dry burn, yes. Smaller chamber than RM2, far better materials. Last RM2's screws and posts have rusted with only a couple of months of use.
Would you say that the Chalice is built so well that it will last a lifetime (lets say a mere 20 years), with only changing the rubber gaskets? Or do you think eventually the posts will cook and need replacing?
You can build any atomizer to vape like crap or vape incredibly.
-RM2 is my favorite as far as ease of build goes
-Chalice is a bit tougher to build on, but does not require the "Z" style coil. Side-slung coils work and are just as tasty. This atty just has class!
-Cyclone, Cyclone AFC, igo-s, and any other micro atty w/ the center + and side - are some of the toughest to build on.
It all boils down to skill and preference with the build. Coil position/size/style... Wick type... Air hole size/position... I could take 10 of the same atty/mod/juice and make every single one have a different flavor profile...
I guess what I am saying is that the super expensive atties are novel, but not required for an amazing vape. If you have money to burn, grab a chalice and be the envy of other bottom-feeders... On a budget? Grab a Reogo-s. They will both do the same thing in the end.
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-RM2 is my favorite as far as ease of build goes
-Chalice is a bit tougher to build on, but does not require the "Z" style coil. Side-slung coils work and are just as tasty. This atty just has class!
-Cyclone, Cyclone AFC, igo-s, and any other micro atty w/ the center + and side - are some of the toughest to build on.
It all boils down to skill and preference with the build. Coil position/size/style... Wick type... Air hole size/position... I could take 10 of the same atty/mod/juice and make every single one have a different flavor profile...
I guess what I am saying is that the super expensive atties are novel, but not required for an amazing vape. If you have money to burn, grab a chalice and be the envy of other bottom-feeders... On a budget? Grab a Reogo-s. They will both do the same thing in the end.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
I have a chalice II original build (brass posts), and I know that I am (at least) the 3rd owner of it. I'd say for certain that it would last 20 years with minimal maintenance... But so will a cyclone, divo, igo, or any other SS atty.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
So, the best atomizers have:
1. small chamber to concentrate flavor
2. can position the coil over the juice hole (and air hole over the coil)
3. 'straight' coil tail holes preferable to Z tails
And of course, the posts lasting longer is a plus, unless you're comparing $10 to $175, at which point, 17 possible rusting units is still preferable to 1 probably won't rust unit... (all stainless steel can rust, depending on humidity... my 316L mandrels last about 1 day longer than my 304 stainless on the porch).
For the record, brass can't rust (but can corrode).... so in this regard, brass posts are better than stainless posts.
Thanks for the opinions. Any other factors?
1. small chamber to concentrate flavor
2. can position the coil over the juice hole (and air hole over the coil)
3. 'straight' coil tail holes preferable to Z tails
And of course, the posts lasting longer is a plus, unless you're comparing $10 to $175, at which point, 17 possible rusting units is still preferable to 1 probably won't rust unit... (all stainless steel can rust, depending on humidity... my 316L mandrels last about 1 day longer than my 304 stainless on the porch
). For the record, brass can't rust (but can corrode).... so in this regard, brass posts are better than stainless posts.
Thanks for the opinions
. Any other factors?
Yes I would. I'm thinking that with unflavored nic base even the gaskets will last many years.
The way it feeds and drains is what put it over the top from a functional standpoint.
The materials and sick level of engineering that went into it are also big pluses
But vape - I can build an RM2 or a cyclone to vape identical to it.
Plus it just sounds cool - "rocking my CHALICE on my oliveR". Not many people in the world have that distinction. I'm among those freaks breathing some pretty rare and thick air
I have messed up a total of 3 RM2 posts over 9mo. My fault, but it never would have happened w/ SS. And because I've used pliers to get the cap off, I think it deformed a little and has a leak around the threads... I salvaged what I could but just threw it out and ordered 2 more from Rob.
I've got a bf cyclone and a reogo-s coming in the mail so, I'll have to see how easy it will be to drill out the posts to accept my MM wire. SS is definitely what I want to move towards. But like the others have said, you cant really beat the ease of build on an RM2.
I've got a bf cyclone and a reogo-s coming in the mail so, I'll have to see how easy it will be to drill out the posts to accept my MM wire. SS is definitely what I want to move towards. But like the others have said, you cant really beat the ease of build on an RM2.
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Different strokes for different folks.
I have identical builds on the RM2's and the Chalice. I much prefer the Chalice. This thing is built to pass down to your kids.
Let's put it this way. I bought 2. One for me, and one for my other half for our Woodvils.
When Mark put up a second run a few weeks later, I bought 2 more for our upcoming Dibi's.
OK, one of my magnets has escaped the clutches of the Richlite bottom plate.
What's the correct adhesive to re-secure it in there?
Super Glue is the way to go. However, there's a bit of care required. Any more glue than is absolutely necessary has no place to escape, and will therefore cause the magnet to seat higher, and the cap to not seat as well as before. I'd be pleased as punch to do it for you, Rossum. If you do it yourself:
Make sure you have orientation clearly marked (don't create an opposing magnet type situation)
Have some pliers or a hammer and a wood block at hand (to really drive that magnet home before the glue grabs it)
You could re-drill the 1/16" thru-hole down the center of the well, to create a place for the excess glue to escape to.
OR - just wet a q-tip tip with CA, and swab the hole (no excess/pooling glue)
Don't scuff the magnet for CA. CA likes smooth surfaces.
OR- just PM me, and I'll make it all better for you.
BTW: this was a beta-testing discovery. #0002 is suffering for it. I've since refined and improved my magnet adhesion program. (sorry for the inconvenience, Rossum)
Oh, and Glass, it's been said that the RM2 creates a "wetter" / moister vape. I concur.
well well well well <<16 chars
can i get a coffee!?
rather you then me seanap drilling ss pfft!
can i get a coffee!?
rather you then me seanap drilling ss pfft!
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