gg check for a partial short of the coil to the cap again, sounds like it may be partially shorting out coil to cap, that would cause the battery to drain quickly while not giving good vape and would make the atty cap hot
PDIB's Making MODs!
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I too gave the center rod/screw a 1/4 turn down while doin things to solve my misfire issue. I watched the bottom plate while turning the screw until I saw the bottom plate move a "gnats whisker" (if that's even a real thing
). Sounds like I was having the same issue FB was but this sort of mod needs tuning IMO. Anything with numerous adjustments/tweaking ability will have to be tuned. I suspect these adjustments to be regular things depending on climate changes, wear and tear etc.
Only issue now is dry hits... dang dual coils and this fancy conductive mod drys out cotton faster than I can squonk!
Went back to 26 gauge and added more wraps, more mass, yum yum. That 6mg Goose juice I ordered can't get here soon enough I say LOL I usually vape 12mg but its a bit much on this setup and I don't want to go back to single coils.
Am using a microcoil in the center of the rm2 right now (have swapped everything back and forth, but today, just stuck with this one thinking it might even be conducting through the juice in the cotton). This coil is a good 5 mm away from all sides of the atomizer wall, and I have a teeny cotton bed under it, so it's not possible for it to touch.
I tried dropping the center screw a bit, it DOES seem to be making better contact, but I can't fully test til my 4 available batteries are charged up again, since pulling a battery out of one of my other units wouldn't be a fully charged battery either, and I only have a 4 battery charger. But the button is still an issue.
1. Fuse is fine.
2. screwed the center post down far enough to push the bottom out, then slowly screwed it back up til the bottom was flush again (to ensure full contact). Then screwed the center nylon screw down so it was pushing the top off, and then slowly adjusted that back down again so the top was flush (but with a hair of magnet showing underneath to ensure full contact of center screw). Coated the top and bottom of center screw with Ox-Gard to ensure full connection.
3. Connection from top of bolt to center leaf... I did not touch the juice tube side of connection at all... I figured that was already set right, but looking at it, it's tight, metal bolt to leaf to metal bolt. Doesn't look like any problem... nor can see where they could be. The leaf has been covered with Ox-Gard too (ox-gard is like de-oxit).
4. The button... this is where I've been trying all the different configurations. I'm not sure if I got all the coating off in the middle, but it's very hard to do because that coating is sooo thick that with a full out scrubbing with 220 grit sandpaper, this is how much I managed to get off the open bottom in a pretty long scrubbing period (about 20min to 1/2 an hour):
The hole is MUCH harder to get to, and no way to apply full on flat hand pressure to it. And WITH flat hand pressure, the above is all I could get off. This is like trying to rub plated chrome off with 220 sandpaper.
Please note that the smooth shiny spots were already there, all the scrubbing with rough sandpaper I did, using full hand pressure and I don't have weak hands I'm a glass person, left the scratchy shine finish... amounting to very little film removed.
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I know, but I was curious exactly how far I was getting in dinging that coating by seeing what effort it took to remove it on the easier to see/remove underside. Not very
. But I did get about 2/3 of it off I think?? I can't tell, scratched it up turning the tops too hoping it would rub a groove. I did get a groove, but it's still misfiring. Will know better, when the batteries are done.
Am using a microcoil in the center of the rm2 right now (have swapped everything back and forth, but today, just stuck with this one thinking it might even be conducting through the juice in the cotton). This coil is a good 5 mm away from all sides of the atomizer wall, and I have a teeny cotton bed under it, so it's not possible for it to touch.
I tried dropping the center screw a bit, it DOES seem to be making better contact, but I can't fully test til my 4 available batteries are charged up again, since pulling a battery out of one of my other units wouldn't be a fully charged battery either, and I only have a 4 battery charger. But the button is still an issue.
1. Fuse is fine.
2. screwed the center post down far enough to push the bottom out, then slowly screwed it back up til the bottom was flush again (to ensure full contact). Then screwed the center nylon screw down so it was pushing the top off, and then slowly adjusted that back down again so the top was flush (but with a hair of magnet showing underneath to ensure full contact of center screw). Coated the top and bottom of center screw with Ox-Gard to ensure full connection.
3. Connection from top of bolt to center leaf... I did not touch the juice tube side of connection at all... I figured that was already set right, but looking at it, it's tight, metal bolt to leaf to metal bolt. Doesn't look like any problem... nor can see where they could be. The leaf has been covered with Ox-Gard too (ox-gard is like de-oxit).
4. The button... this is where I've been trying all the different configurations. I'm not sure if I got all the coating off in the middle, but it's very hard to do because that coating is sooo thick that with a full out scrubbing with 220 grit sandpaper, this is how much I managed to get off the open bottom in a pretty long scrubbing period (about 20min to 1/2 an hour):
The hole is MUCH harder to get to, and no way to apply full on flat hand pressure to it. And WITH flat hand pressure, the above is all I could get off. This is like trying to rub plated chrome off with 220 sandpaper.
Please note that the smooth shiny spots were already there, all the scrubbing with rough sandpaper I did, using full hand pressure and I don't have weak hands I'm a glass person, left the scratchy shine finish... amounting to very little film removed.
The first time i turned it back in to seat right i went a little to far andd still had issues. That why I say test with adjusted just hair to far to make sure.
I have a multimeter... can one of you guys tell me exactly where to touch to test, and what it should read? I have no idea how to set/use it...
It looks like this one w/ a black and red wire:
I just don't know what to set it to and where to put the red and black wires on the mod to tell if I'm getting a full connection or short? Thanks.
It looks like this one w/ a black and red wire:
I just don't know what to set it to and where to put the red and black wires on the mod to tell if I'm getting a full connection or short? Thanks
.
I have a multimeter... can one of you guys tell me exactly where to touch to test, and what it should read? I have no idea how to set/use it...
It looks like this one w/ a black and red wire:
I just don't know what to set it to and where to put the red and black wires on the mod to tell if I'm getting a full connection or short? Thanks
This is a pretty good video on how to use them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU
I have a multimeter... can one of you guys tell me exactly where to touch to test, and what it should read? I have no idea how to set/use it...
It looks like this one w/ a black and red wire:
I just don't know what to set it to and where to put the red and black wires on the mod to tell if I'm getting a full connection or short? Thanks
The V are voltage testing the one on the left with the dash is for AC the one on the right is DC, it has two lines with the lower one being dashed. Put your meter on the white 10. Meaning I want to read DV voltage from 0 to 10.
pull the top of the dibi, touch black, common, to top of battery and red to center bolt. I would expected a reading the 4s.
↑ sorry, FB, all out of . . . . .. oh, WAIT!, . . . . found one more→
No worries, tweaking for environment, the button mod also for my preference of a softer push and shorter throw. All good here.
oh, I just meant the forgetting it's copper part . . .
just got back from the hardware store with a fresh, oversized piece of aluminum (which means getting the tablesaw involved and toasting the sharp off the blade). No more "framing square cutesy"
BTW, while shopping, I remembered that last time, when I made the call to get the new framing square, the thing that finally tilted me toward it was Glass saying she wanted her OOmpa-Loompa to have writing on it too. (just a cute, anecdotal remark, nothing to do with anything causative)
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oh, I just meant the forgetting it's copper part . . .
just got back from the hardware store with a fresh, oversized piece of aluminum (which means getting the tablesaw involved and toasting the sharp off the blade). No more "framing square cutesy"
BTW, while shopping, I remembered that last time, when I made the call to get the new framing square, the thing that tilted me was Glass saying she wanted her OOmpa-Loompa to have writing on it too. (just a cute, anecdotal remark, nothing to do with anything causative)
I love that part! I just don't like the coating
!!
Peter, windows have been open every night and the wiggle in the mod caps is gone...Good thing I didn't start fiddling with it!! Guess my walnut will need to shower with me through the winter...
And GG that looks like the old aluminum not the new Peter was talking about. Don't know how much sanding is necessary...
And GG that looks like the old aluminum not the new Peter was talking about. Don't know how much sanding is necessary...
Check this killer new drip tip my boy muzichead sent me.
It's nice and short and the bore is wide like the could chaser.
This is the my favorite tip
It's nice and short and the bore is wide like the could chaser.
This is the my favorite tip
Set to the 10 on the right side (there's no other 10), it reads at 8.2 or 8.3. Touching the battery alone top and bottom, it reads 8.3. Sooo I think there is good/perfect connectivity from the bottom?? There doesn't seem to be even a bit of battery voltage drop touching the points pdib mentioned...
And, it's firing pretty good now, when it fires (not consistently). But still, have to press the side of the button, not the center, and still doing that first press nothing happens til it 'warms up'. But... it's improving
.
Check this killer new drip tip my boy muzichead sent me.
It's nice and short and the bore is wide like the could chaser.
This is the my favorite tip
now THAT one is PERFECT!
Why are those of us with the old-school copper ground plate and the original screw-head contact that ALWAYS works feeling kinda smug right now?
actually, while reading the framing square saga, i was thinking my copper plate mod has many of the same issues as folks were describing. i just haven't done any adjusting yet. holding off til next week's eye surgery so i can see what i'm doing
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