ok.
i figured it out.
I'm trying to put ALL the facts together here, and do some troubleshooting. So, Scandal's
mod fires, and then it doesn't . . .. doesn't a lot. Glass is focused in on the button . . . . . something is not right . . . . . toggling. Filthy-Beast has some intermittent trouble, takes it apart, rearranges it (and alters the spring). Now Scandal gets her mod to fire . .. . by pushing the edge of the button (by making contact between the button stem and the grounding plate . . . toggling). THAT's what finally brought it home for me!
Honestly, it was just shear dumb luck (that I didn't catch this when doing "quality control") that all the mods fired in nice v-drop ranges before I sent them out. If any one of them had given me an unacceptable reading, I probably would have caught this. . .. . . . .. .
I had gone through my first aluminum framing square and had to acquire more aluminum for this run. I compared prices on a number of options for 1/8" aluminum stock, and even looked for used/old/character-ridden framing squares. I ended up buying a new one from my favorite hardware store (where I expected to find some classy old used one). As I was chopping it up, and then sanding it flat, and buffing it out, I thought . . .. "is this thing sand blasted? or coated with something?". Between trying to get it truly flat, and anticipating fit with the top of the mod, and wanting to keep it as close to 1/8" as possible (everything's connected . .. . 1/8" is good . . . .. new square, obviously thinner than old square, not even 1/8" to begin with), I ended up leaving some of the "matte finish" on some of the plates. I made sure to get most of it off, just in case, in the areas that would require conductivity. (Thinking, if it
really is some kind of coating . . .. which I couldn't imagine the reason for the added expense in manufacture of the squares . .. I'll know it when I test for conductivity. Well, cr_p, I tested all the mods, and they were fine! "Must've been me just being paranoid on the new framing square", I thought.)
SO . . ... after looking at the pattern of problems, I put two and two together, and went out to the shop and tested the square itself . . . .. what's left of it.
Sure enough, sure e-farking-nuff, there's some coating on it! I put the nose of a battery against the flat of the square, and I'm not getting a voltage reading from the other face of the square and the tail of the battery. I tested the square for resistance and it's reading like it would waving the leads around in the air.
WHY DIDN'T I THINK TO JUST TEST IT THIS WAY WHEN I HAD THE INKLING? !!!!!!!!!

IDK. Guess I'm stupid.
Anyway, the fix is simple. The problem is isolated. And I'm an idiot. Obviously, I will take care of it personally for anyone who doesn't want to DIY it. It's really just a question of whether you want to do the work, or outsmart the issue, or send your mod back to me. If you look in the button hole (must disassemble button to do so by screwing off the brass nut on the bottom of the cap), you will see shiny areas and matte areas on your grounding plate surface in the bottom of the hole. Shiny areas are conductive, matte areas are not. It only matters on this face of the plate (where the spring wants to touch). . . . . . and it only matters on this one run. .. . . . I'm so totally sorry, but lesson learned.
OPTIONS:
make sure the spring lands on the shiny area. (by altering the spring, rotating it, or spinning your button for a few days until that f-cker grinds off the finish in it's footprint)
buff off the clear coat (make it shiny).
send it back to me (just the cap will do).
I am sincerely sorry about this mistake on my part . . . . . . . .
