Personally, I like additional lubricants in certain scenarios...
Hey if it aint natural... Maybe take your time getting to those scenarios
Hehe
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PDIB's Making MODs!
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Hey if it aint natural... Maybe take your time getting to those scenarios
Hehe
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Hey if it aint natural... Maybe take your time getting to those scenarios
Hehe
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Lanolin, Brother, Lanolin... lol. BTW, have a look at the popular "Touch" product... uh huh, what is the main ingredient? yuppers... it's Glycerine...
I concur. The characteristic you're after is something that prevents oxidation and other forms of corrosion, and blobbing it on is pointless. The stuff I'm using is thin, runny liquid that dries to an invisible, not-sticky film. It keeps my guns from rusting 200' from the ocean at my place in Florida, so I know it works well. The same stuff also kept my brass Zippos shinier than any other product I ever tried. I wet the end of a Q-Tip with it and apply to it to all the contact points of my DiBi, let it sit on there for a bit, then wipe off any excess.
Choose your wood wisely folks...
Don't really want to post pics, so I'm not unless you are dying to see a broken OliveR. It does not affect the function or performance. Mine broke in a similar way turbocad6's did, the squonk hole ring thing snapped off and shattered. The redwood is very crumbly/brittle, poor choice on my end. Gluing mine back together isn't an option because the ring piece broke into at least 6 pieces and I was only able to find 3 of them. I'll look for the other pieces later when I get off work though. Not convinced it wouldn't break again anyway, it fell about 2 1/2 feet out of my hand onto soft'ish linoleum. Super bummed, but it still works so there is that. I'll likely file it down flush and refinish the area.
Don't really want to post pics, so I'm not unless you are dying to see a broken OliveR. It does not affect the function or performance. Mine broke in a similar way turbocad6's did, the squonk hole ring thing snapped off and shattered. The redwood is very crumbly/brittle, poor choice on my end. Gluing mine back together isn't an option because the ring piece broke into at least 6 pieces and I was only able to find 3 of them. I'll look for the other pieces later when I get off work though. Not convinced it wouldn't break again anyway, it fell about 2 1/2 feet out of my hand onto soft'ish linoleum. Super bummed, but it still works so there is that.
I'll likely file it down flush and refinish the area.
If you can't find those pieces you can always glue together what you have, fill the remaining space with a permanent, hard epoxy, and sand down til you cap fits flush.
Now THATS a battle scar!
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Now THATS a battle scar!
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That's a great idea MoN! I had to walk away this morning
I was running out of time and patience.
don't alter anything til we talk, tim. let's explore all options before removing any material.
I left it as is for a reason. I needed to calm down and get my thoughts straight before doing anything.
that sucks. if you can find all the pieces it can go back together again good as new, if not then maybe a replacement piece can be made and grafted in, filling it with epoxy would be a last resort and would look like crap I think, you really should try to find all the pieces if that's at all possible. I know what you mean about left it as is until.... I usually do the same, pick up the pieces and then wait till I have the time and patience for a good repair, for as many times as mine has been broken it still looks perfect when refinished after a repair
one time I was in a rush and I used the gel instead of the liquid when I broke the top cap part off around the button, the gel does not fully displace so it will leave a slight gap in the material... actually not leave a gap because it fills the gap, but things don't go back to 100% flush as they were when the gel is used so it creates a filled gap, it can be sanded to flat and invisible still but now my button hole looks very slightly elongated when looking at it straight down from the top because I used the gel there on that repair, def use the loctite professional liquid one that pdib recommends for an invisible repair provided you do find all the pieces. I've only showed pics here of the one break but I have broken it a bunch of times now in a few different places
I need to refinish it again because right now I've got 2 different repaired areas that need to be sanded out and polished again. I really should build a rubber sleeve housing for it or just leave it home when I'm at work but I like using it too much, I did leave it home for a while but it's back at work again with me now, blowing clouds with a dual 26 ga at .4 ohms, cracks? what cracks? I don't taste any cracks in the vape
one time I was in a rush and I used the gel instead of the liquid when I broke the top cap part off around the button, the gel does not fully displace so it will leave a slight gap in the material... actually not leave a gap because it fills the gap, but things don't go back to 100% flush as they were when the gel is used so it creates a filled gap, it can be sanded to flat and invisible still but now my button hole looks very slightly elongated when looking at it straight down from the top because I used the gel there on that repair, def use the loctite professional liquid one that pdib recommends for an invisible repair provided you do find all the pieces. I've only showed pics here of the one break but I have broken it a bunch of times now in a few different places
I need to refinish it again because right now I've got 2 different repaired areas that need to be sanded out and polished again. I really should build a rubber sleeve housing for it or just leave it home when I'm at work but I like using it too much, I did leave it home for a while but it's back at work again with me now, blowing clouds with a dual 26 ga at .4 ohms, cracks? what cracks? I don't taste any cracks in the vape
that sucks. if you can find all the pieces it can go back together again good as new, if not then maybe a replacement piece can be made and grafted in, filling it with epoxy would be a last resort and would look like crap I think, you really should try to find all the pieces if that's at all possible. I know what you mean about left it as is until.... I usually do the same, pick up the pieces and then wait till I have the time and patience for a good repair, for as many times as mine has been broken it still looks perfect when refinished after a repair
one time I was in a rush and I used the gel instead of the liquid when I broke the top cap part off around the button, the gel does not fully displace so it will leave a slight gap in the material... actually not leave a gap because it fills the gap, but things don't go back to 100% flush as they were when the gel is used so it creates a filled gap, it can be sanded to flat and invisible still but now my button hole looks very slightly elongated when looking at it straight down from the top because I used the gel there on that repair, def use the loctite professional liquid one that pdib recommends for an invisible repair provided you do find all the pieces. I've only showed pics here of the one break but I have broken it a bunch of times now in a few different places
I need to refinish it again because right now I've got 2 different repaired areas that need to be sanded out and polished again. I really should build a rubber sleeve housing for it or just leave it home when I'm at work but I like using it too much, I did leave it home for a while but it's back at work again with me now, blowing clouds with a dual 26 ga at .4 ohms, cracks? what cracks? I don't taste any cracks in the vape
That makes me feel better/more confident in repair; but I got a feeling I'm gonna break it again. I don't know, really really upset with myself for choosing poor wood I think is the biggest issue I have. We shall see if I can find the missing bits. It was weird, it broke like glass. Heard pieces landing all over. Hoping the missing bits are on the counter or something. Happened in the kitchen; already pulled stove out lol (wife says I'm nuts) Next is pull fridge out and look under there.
Ya I'm missin them clouds today. More missing that warm luscious thick flavorful vape! Try to hide the cloud part haha. I'm a little lighter on dual coils but I do like that 26ga at .5 ohms. Keep thinkin there is something wrong with my grand, but its workin just fine.
Oh no... so sorry that happened to you. But you if you could find all the pieces, gluing it back together would make it stronger than it was before too...
Ok, I bowed to all your bullying and cleaned the grease out of the button. Actually, there was almost no grease in the button, since pushing on it squished most of it out anyway when the spring compressed, but I cleaned out what was left. Then I narrowed the spring a bit at the top, so it would fit better inside the button. It is firing better now. It's still a very stiff push.
And it still doesn't hit as hard at my Reo Grand with the kit... so I'm thinking maybe there's still something wrong with it. But all the posts are in the correct positions, so I'm stumped on what's left to check.
. But you if you could find all the pieces, gluing it back together would make it stronger than it was before too... Ok, I bowed to all your bullying and cleaned the grease out of the button. Actually, there was almost no grease in the button, since pushing on it squished most of it out anyway when the spring compressed, but I cleaned out what was left. Then I narrowed the spring a bit at the top, so it would fit better inside the button. It is firing better now. It's still a very stiff push.
And it still doesn't hit as hard at my Reo Grand with the kit... so I'm thinking maybe there's still something wrong with it. But all the posts are in the correct positions, so I'm stumped on what's left to check.
don't forget to check the obvious, can the 510 be tightened a little more? have you rechecked your atty screws to the coil? I once was playing with mine for a while trying to figure out what was going on and it turned out one of my screws in the cyclone loosened up a bit, drove me nuts, don't forget to look at the basics first before diving in further
Oh no... so sorry that happened to you
Ok, I bowed to all your bullying and cleaned the grease out of the button. Actually, there was almost no grease in the button, since pushing on it squished most of it out anyway when the spring compressed, but I cleaned out what was left. Then I narrowed the spring a bit at the top, so it would fit better inside the button. It is firing better now. It's still a very stiff push.
And it still doesn't hit as hard at my Reo Grand with the kit... so I'm thinking maybe there's still something wrong with it. But all the posts are in the correct positions, so I'm stumped on what's left to check.
Thanks glass. I wasn't tryin to bully, I was just sharing my opinion. Grease will attract lint/drit/etc and eventually get in the way of making good contact. That was all I was trying to convey. I think alot of times we all use a product because we think it will do something it doesn't do or wasn't meant to do. I think there are better products for limiting oxidation on metal contacts; like what Rossum shared a few posts back or deoxit. Something thin that isn't goopy. Noalox on a reo with old firing pin was to stop the arcing, which was causing rapid/immediate oxidation.
So when you fire the mod, is your pinky under the bottom plate? Like squeezing a fist full of vape? Are you sure you got all of the coating off in the button hole? Maybe turn your button around 20-30 times in a circle and see if it improves? Also make sure that spring is wrapped tight around the aluminum button post making good contact and make sure where spring is contacting button shaft is clean.
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And if it can't- have you ever even considered grafting a small jaw bone where that piece used to be?
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Thanks ScandaLeX. It'll be all good, somehow some way like you said. It still works fantastic, just has a boo boo now
. I really want people to think about what kind of wood they choose though. The waiting, the craftsmanship, the beauty, the performance all adds to the disappointment when you break it. I don't usually get emotional about things but this one stings a little.
the truth is, wood is wood. my wood was stabilized and it's a pretty good block but still, where it broke each time is at thin areas, don't think that another wood would be so much better tbh, the dibi is not good to drop and abuse, it's minimalist in form and sleek and thin but it is wood and that area where yours broke is not going to survive a good fall landing right on the toe, any wood could have broke so don't beat yourself up too much about the wood you chose bro, just find those pieces 
the truth is, wood is wood. my wood was stabilized and it's a pretty good block but still, where it broke each time is at thin areas, don't think that another wood would be so much better tbh, the dibi is not good to drop and abuse, it's minimalist in form and sleek and thin but it is wood and that area where yours broke is not going to survive a good fall landing right on the toe, any wood could have broke so don't beat yourself up too much about the wood you chose bro, just find those pieces
Agreed. Dropping my DiBi would be my greatest fear for this mod regardless of how strong the wood is. Quick question though, would a thin metal ring inside that toe help reinforce it? I'm guessing it won't make much of a difference since the wood would still take the initial shock?
So sorry to read what happened to yours Tim. I hope you find a way to repair it to a satisfactory level.
Oh, I appreciate all the suggestions
. As for firing, I usually fire with 4 fingers on the bottom plate, and thumb on the button, or I have 2 fingers under and thumb on plate. I don't like the pinky squish.
The coating is mostly out of the hole, but it's very scratchy, so not perfect contact, but given the broad area of contact from the spring, I don't think that's a big problem. We'll see over time if it softens a bit so it's easier to push
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