PDIB's Making MODs!

[Treebeard]

yeah, another thing to look for is the 510 pin, the soft silicone gasket in there seals it well but it can get damaged if you tighten the atty down too much, especially when your using an o-ring under the atty and trying to compress that down snug, yet if it's not tight enough the connection there can be a point of high resistance, especially with a high powered low ohm build. one atty may seat the pin fairly deep then the next might barely contact, especially if you over compressed it with the atty before. I replaced the upper gasket of the 510 pin with a o-ring that fit it really well, keeps it centered and lets me really snug the atty down tight getting a really good connection at the 510. circuits only as good as the weakest link and after everything else was top notch the 510 was a weak link. I considered a new post right through the cyclone to hybrid it but with the oring in the 510 and really cranked down it's been fine.

a leather jacket type cover would be really cool but I refuse to tool up for yet another craft just to satisfy my vape

There are alternatives...just saying.

 

[ScandaLeX]

There are alternatives...just saying.

Such as?

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

 

[Bimini Twist]

Timk, (and turbo) so sorry about your fractured mods. I know that sinking feeling. I suppose it is some consolation that they are still functional. I have a fear of dropping mine cause I drop things a lot . I keep my twins in custom made covers (thanks Monkey!) hoping that it will cushion the blow if I do drop them or at least prevent nicks and scratches.

GG, I have two REOs and have upgraded the spring and firing pin and they are hitting like champs and I'm very pleased with them. But still, not quite as good as my two dibi's (especially since the shiny upgraded bits from Mr. Bee were installed). My dibi's are hitting as hard as my "very" hard hitting tube mods (cronus, stingray and EA clones (some of the hardest hitting mech mods available).

Do you have the same coil build in the dibi as you do in the reo? Could be the difference. You said that your atty got very hot and your batteries were draining abnormally fast....could only mean a short. My guess is that the coil was touching the atty interior wall.

The dibi can be tweaked for peak performance via adjustments of the various contact points. I'm sure yours is just a matter of "adjustments" provided there isn't some outside problem such as a short or some funky coating on the al plate. The dibi, like most other mechs are dead simple devices and there are a finite number of things that could be the problem (granted the dibi has a few extra steps).

My wish is that everyone that has one of these beautiful mods has it working at peak performance cause it is a hell-of-a-thing when it is.

In other news, the BeCu button springs that I have don't seem to be very stiff. The button has a nice mechanical feel and is not hard to press for me. The silver shaft is nicely adjustable and I have it set for a short throw so I don't have to worry about it pushing the bottom plate down out of contact. Course, I don't think I'd want to put it in the bottom of my purse. Never had a problem with misfires from day one (I'm a beta tester). Only prob I've ever had was with a loose 510 housing (which may have loosened from me moving the copper leaf back and forth.

Cheers, all!

Well, that's not good to hear. Am I spoiled? My first Reo just departed from Maine. When out on the Gulf, I use an EA, a GUS Lord, and a ProVari for backup. I will NOT bring my Dibi on the boat, but I really want that hard-hitting BF dripping experience. I just know that if I drip while fishing, some reel will start screaming and I'll drop everything to get to it. Bottle here, bottle cap there, drip tip bouncing around and the tube mod rolling who knows where. Ah well, I'm sure I'll like it anyway after seeing Supe's review of the Reo upgrade.

Rob can chalk up another Reo sale thanks to pdib!

And here's sending some good vibes out there hoping you get your wish.

 

[Treebeard]

Well, that's not good to hear. Am I spoiled? My first Reo just departed from Maine. When out on the Gulf, I use an EA, a GUS Lord, and a ProVari for backup. I will NOT bring my Dibi on the boat, but I really want that hard-hitting BF dripping experience. I just know that if I drip while fishing, some reel will start screaming and I'll drop everything to get to it. Bottle here, bottle cap there, drip tip bouncing around and the tube mod rolling who knows where. Ah well, I'm sure I'll like it anyway after seeing Supe's review of the Reo upgrade.

Rob can chalk up another Reo sale thanks to pdib!

And here's sending some good vibes out there hoping you get your wish.

BT, don't get me wrong. The reo with upgrade kit is very satisfying and I use it daily (along with all the afore mentioned mods). Don't worry. You'll enjoy it. The bad news is that the $39 EHpro EA clone is harder hittin' than the original EA.

 

[glassgal]

I built a mod from snakewood which is like one of the hardest woods there is, I dropped it a few days ago and it cracked too, cracked from bottom to top, right up the middle on the inside. come to find out cracking is a common problem with snakewood I built another from regular ole home depot oak a while ago and dropped it a bunch of times no cracks, even dropped it a few times on purpose to test after I cracked the snakewood and nope, it just bounces, I guess some woods may be softer but softness means it absorbs shock where really hard can mean really brittle? don't know for sure, peters the wood guru here but I think any wood should be treated as fragile I guess, it's just wood next I want to build one from desert ironwood, also supposed to be really hard like snakewood, not sure really hard means less likely to crack though, I think it has a lot to do with the grain... I've read that some woods are less likely to crack when they have a weaved grain instead of a straight grain... even stabilized can only do so much....

Wood Database is your friend...
Snakewood workability: Snakewood | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)
"Snakewood also tends to be quite brittle and can splinter easily while being worked." Well, if it splinters easily while being worked, it's probably going to splinter easily when dropped on the floor...

Big Leaf Maple workability: "Fairly easy to work with both hand and machine tools, though maple has a tendency to burn when being machined with high-speed cutters such as in a router." Better chance of surviving a drop on the floor...

Redwood workability: "Typically easy to work with hand tools or machinery, but planer tearout can occur on figured pieces with curly, wavy, or irregular grain." Probably break when dropped on the floor...

Desert Ironwood workability: "Desert Ironwood is usually restricted to very small projects, though it takes a good natural polish and is very stable in service. Turns, polishes, and finishes well." Can probably drop on the floor...

This is all theoretical of course. I have granite floors... I don't think any of my mods would survive that, so they stay in the carpeted messy office.

 

[turbocad6]

yeah, I've read all of that stuff. I worked the snakewood nice and slow, funny thing is I didn't crack it working it at all, but then I dropped it and cracked it before it's even finished. read a lot on some instrument forums on working with snakewood. guys actually build stuff as elaborate as complete clarinet bodies from snakewood but the general consensus is it's not a matter of if it will crack, just a matter of when. general consensus is also that it is adequately repaired with crazy glue but the only person who should actually own one is a clarinet maker, simply because it's almost guaranteed to crack and they'd always be able to repair it

theirs some really crazy high end instrument builders out there doing some work with it, pretty difficult to work with, especially larger things because you're just going to have to deal with cracks that are inevitable with larger pieces of this wood, most use it just for smaller trim items though. there is one guy who made a complete one with no cracks but it took him like 30 years to do it because you have to work it to one stage then let it re acclimate at that stage for a few months, etc etc... the thing is worth over $30k from what I remember

some say it's not a good idea to ship items made from this wood by air, guys claim just the rapid changes in temp and humidity can even cause it to crack. few guys who make wood pens from snakewood have had this problem and many avoid using it because a crack that develops after the fact can be a problem

 

[glassgal]

GG, I have two REOs and have upgraded the spring and firing pin and they are hitting like champs and I'm very pleased with them. But still, not quite as good as my two dibi's (especially since the shiny upgraded bits from Mr. Bee were installed). My dibi's are hitting as hard as my "very" hard hitting tube mods (cronus, stingray and EA clones (some of the hardest hitting mech mods available).

Do you have the same coil build in the dibi as you do in the reo? Could be the difference. You said that your atty got very hot and your batteries were draining abnormally fast....could only mean a short. My guess is that the coil was touching the atty interior wall.

The dibi can be tweaked for peak performance via adjustments of the various contact points. I'm sure yours is just a matter of "adjustments" provided there isn't some outside problem such as a short or some funky coating on the al plate. The dibi, like most other mechs are dead simple devices and there are a finite number of things that could be the problem (granted the dibi has a few extra steps).

My wish is that everyone that has one of these beautiful mods has it working at peak performance cause it is a hell-of-a-thing when it is.

In other news, the BeCu button springs that I have don't seem to be very stiff. The button has a nice mechanical feel and is not hard to press for me. The silver shaft is nicely adjustable and I have it set for a short throw so I don't have to worry about it pushing the bottom plate down out of contact. Course, I don't think I'd want to put it in the bottom of my purse. Never had a problem with misfires from day one (I'm a beta tester). Only prob I've ever had was with a loose 510 housing (which may have loosened from me moving the copper leaf back and forth.

Cheers, all!

Well, I can't get it to fire at all if I'm not pinching the button and bottom plate at the same time... but now that I'm more used to it, it's like a hand exercise, so I don't mind anymore. Seriously.

How hard it hits... I'm thinking that it IS hitting as hard as the Reo Grand, but for some reason not putting out as much vapor. I think this because I'm getting quick nic headaches from it, faster than the REO, so maybe... the juice is so dense that my taste buds are going numb? This is actually possible, the flavor is very concentrated... but the Reo Grand is still putting out more vapor. Hrm. Right after I typed that, I decided to swap the same atomizer back and forth... and maybe the REO isn't putting out more vapor... think you're right... the dibi is now hitting harder...

I must have FINALLY wore a big enough groove in the nifty aluminum triangle top (which is mostly why I wanted aluminum... I pity those who don't get their metal cut from the triangle, it's such a cute feature)! YAY!

 

[Treebeard]

Well, I can't get it to fire at all if I'm not pinching the button and bottom plate at the same time... but now that I'm more used to it, it's like a hand exercise, so I don't mind anymore. Seriously.

How hard it hits... I'm thinking that it IS hitting as hard as the Reo Grand, but for some reason not putting out as much vapor. I think this because I'm getting quick nic headaches from it, faster than the REO, so maybe... the juice is so dense that my taste buds are going numb? This is actually possible, the flavor is very concentrated... but the Reo Grand is still putting out more vapor. Hrm. Right after I typed that, I decided to swap the same atomizer back and forth... and maybe the REO isn't putting out more vapor... think you're right... the dibi is now hitting harder...

I must have FINALLY wore a big enough groove in the nifty aluminum triangle top (which is mostly why I wanted aluminum... I pity those who don't get their metal cut from the triangle, it's such a cute feature)! YAY!

mi scusi, what is triangle top?

 

[MasterofNone]

I think it's a style of bikini top... And I guess this one is for the more fashion conscious dwarf women


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Treebeard]

I think it's a style of bikini top... And I guess this one is for the more fashion conscious dwarf women


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MoN!!!

 

[glassgal]

Well, that's not good to hear. Am I spoiled? My first Reo just departed from Maine. When out on the Gulf, I use an EA, a GUS Lord, and a ProVari for backup. I will NOT bring my Dibi on the boat, but I really want that hard-hitting BF dripping experience. I just know that if I drip while fishing, some reel will start screaming and I'll drop everything to get to it. Bottle here, bottle cap there, drip tip bouncing around and the tube mod rolling who knows where. Ah well, I'm sure I'll like it anyway after seeing Supe's review of the Reo upgrade.

Rob can chalk up another Reo sale thanks to pdib!

And here's sending some good vibes out there hoping you get your wish.

You'll like your REO on the boat.

 

[timk]

Think glass means framing square lol triangle square whatever

 

[glassgal]

mi scusi, what is triangle top?

The thingie that pdib cuts the aluminum from?

 

[glassgal]

I think it's a style of bikini top... And I guess this one is for the more fashion conscious dwarf women


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're confusing the clothing with their beards. Silly MoN.

 

[dwcraig1]

With the sub-ohm upgrade the Reo Grand is serious competition for any mod in the voltage drop arena..

 

[pdib]

thanks for the info.

 

[gdeal]

Holy (@#$@)....this thread moves fast! Everytime I check in its like 200 more posts.....

So I may be lucky, but I have had zero problems with my OliveR. I am talkin' over five months of the most trouble free, satisfying mechanical mod experience. I only did two "upgrades". The berylium copper spring and I put a resettetable PTC fuse in. Other that than, a bit of no-ox id on the spring contacts Other than that no problems, nada...nothing... 100's of mls of ejuice.

Glassgal,/Lex sorry to hear about your challenges, but I think Turbo nailed an issue that occurs with any custom device. That insulator in the 510 keeping you positive juice delivery pin safe from the negative side can deform. Every atty change or adjustment can put pressure on the insulator. The rest of the device is metal on metal. (cept for that aluminum coating thing...)

Anyway, SuperX, love that drip tip. Wide bore is the way to go...

Pdib, you are the man! This is by far my favorite mod. Best vape purchase I have made...ever. Read as "EVER" Still in awe of your skills handling wood.

 

[glassgal]

What insulator?

 

[e30ernest]

pdib what insulator are you using for the 510? Is it the same as the Reo?

 

[pdib]

Every insulator I've ever seen, in any 510 I've disassembled, has been of the same variety. It can be problematic and need replacement with time. (are we talking about the same thing? . . . . the silicone flanged bushing that isolates the 510+ post from the surrounding 510 connector?). Basically, those things can get shredded; but they still almost never short out, in my experience. What's more, the ladies aren't blowing a fuse every time they're trying to power up. Maybe I'm confused.


btw: t-cad, I'm liking the idea of replacing the hard plastic washer with a tiny o-ring, to provide a little more spring in the depth category. Are those resilient tho? To all juices? I'd be worried it would break down over time and I'd have lots of mods in need of repair.