PDIB's Making MODs!

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ValHeli

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There's no better sight than looking at morning woods!!!

Good morning from Baghdad!!!:vapor:
 

ValHeli

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I've never heard of anyone fusing drip tips tho, those are all torch made, which has nothing to do with the kiln, except for annealing. All glass has to be annealed after being melted and push/pulled.

Slumping simply means you're going up to 1350 degrees F to melt/slump soft glass. Borosilicate doesn't slump well, it will devitrify, and the melting temp is 1750 F minimum. Hope that helps:).

Hi G-g, I was gonna ask you if you've tried making tips but I guess this answers that question.. it's too troublesome and technical:p:p
 

ValHeli

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Is the Cyclone with AFC top fed? Or is it just a cap that I could use on the BF one?

If you've been to indyvaporshop, then I see exactly where you're coming from. There's no drop down options in their site for the Cyclone w/ AFC set. Yes it's just a cap that can either be purchased as a set or by itself. Wherever you're planning to get them from, I suggest to email first to make sure you get the BF model.


So far this is the sexiest rba i've seen that just complement the looks of the DIBI:D
 
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glassgal

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Hi G-g, I was gonna ask you if you've tried making tips but I guess this answers that question.. it's too troublesome and technical:p:p

I have... but then the forum said I had to be a supplier if I wanted to post pix of what I made. Suppliers do not get to post all over the forum, only in their own little section. They can't even see certain sections of the forum at all.

Drip tips are cheap, unlike mods, with lots of people making different kinds. To net a few dollars a week, I give up the only reason I'm here, the camraderie and support of my fellow vapers, and the opportunity to buy interesting items others made. I won't do it.

Here's a few tester ones I made last year for myself. I figure I won't get in trouble for posting pix I already posted before, since I haven't made a single new vaping item in glass for months and will never do it again:

DSC_0527640x533_zpsaa90bc61.jpg
 
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pdib

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I have... but then the forum said I had to be a supplier if I wanted to post pix of what I made. Suppliers do not get to post all over the forum, only in their own little section. They can't even see certain sections of the forum at all.

Drip tips are cheap, unlike mods, with lots of people making different kinds. To net a few dollars a week, I give up the only reason I'm here, the camraderie and support of my fellow vapers, and the opportunity to buy interesting items others made. I won't do it.

Here's a few tester ones I made last year for myself. I figure I won't get in trouble for posting pix I already posted before, since I haven't made a single new vaping item in glass for months and will never do it again:

DSC_0527640x533_zpsaa90bc61.jpg

that one is gorgeous!
 

IMEDICx90

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Hi Medic, a kiln's a kiln. What matters is that the temp can go up to annealing temps, and that it can hold it there a period of time. Some people talk about ceramic kilns as different from glass kilns, but that's just the door placement (ceramics tend to be top open, glass are side open). What matters is the temps.

I've never heard of anyone fusing drip tips tho, those are all torch made, which has nothing to do with the kiln, except for annealing. All glass has to be annealed after being melted and push/pulled.

Slumping simply means you're going up to 1350 degrees F to melt/slump soft glass. Borosilicate doesn't slump well, it will devitrify, and the melting temp is 1750 F minimum. Hope that helps:).

Ok so then would it be in violation of the rules for me to PM you and find out exactly what I need to make a few? I have no intent on selling these, just thought it would be cool to make a few and see how they turn out. :)


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glassgal

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Ok so then would it be in violation of the rules for me to PM you and find out exactly what I need to make a few? I have no intent on selling these, just thought it would be cool to make a few and see how they turn out. :)


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With the drip tips, I never figured out the exact sizes on the bases, which is really the help you'd need. Plus, I need o-rings. It was a process I began and never completed, and as I can't sell them anyway, I just dropped the project completely.

How to make them? I just did these on a mandrel, like a bead. The people selling them on the forum are split between borosilicate tube blown and mandrel soft glass types. You had earlier asked me about slumping/molding... don't think that will work, but haven't tried, you can experiment:).
 

IMEDICx90

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With the drip tips, I never figured out the exact sizes on the bases, which is really the help you'd need. Plus, I need o-rings. It was a process I began and never completed, and as I can't sell them anyway, I just dropped the project completely.

How to make them? I just did these on a mandrel, like a bead. The people selling them on the forum are split between borosilicate tube blown and mandrel soft glass types. You had earlier asked me about slumping/molding... don't think that will work, but haven't tried, you can experiment:).

Lol wut? Hahaha

I guess I have some research to do... I have NO CLUE what you just said. Hahahah!


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glassgal

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Lol wut? Hahaha

I guess I have some research to do... I have NO CLUE what you just said. Hahahah!
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Oh. If you know NOTHING about glass... then be prepared to spend about $5,000 just to get the basic equipment, glass and lessons. I know that sounds like a crazy large sum, but you will end up spending that in your first year if you are serious. You see, the most basic tools are a torch and a kiln. The cheapest (and you will need to upgrade very soon) would be about $500-1000 for both, and they would only allow you to work soft glass, not borosilicate.

Glass itself runs from $4-$180 per lb. A lb of glass is only about 5-6 small rods. Glass is heavy.

If you want to learn glass, start with a basics lesson, most cities offer one. But to get to the point where you are able to make drip tips, we're talking about 1-2 years average experience...

Playing with glass is possibly one of the most expensive of all hobby/arts, next to goldsmithing of course:).

*edited from $10K to $5K. What you have to pay for is:
Torch, Kiln, Air Ventilation (without adequate ventilation, silicosis is a problem), work area impervious to extreme heat (wood table is a bad idea), shelving, glass itself, mandrels, tools (glass tools are very expensive too), storage. That's just for starters. If you are doing only soft glass beads, drop that amount to $1,000 to start.

But if you are interested, first thing to do is find a local glass studio for classes:)!
 
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glassgal

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I'm not sure what part of Ohio you are in, but did a quick search and there's SEVERAL different glass studios in Ohio. You are very lucky, since travel and hotels for class can get pricey!

Here's one that is inexpensive and sounds really interesting: Hot Classes | Glass Axis

Classes is where you would start if you want to do glass, but if the interest is there, it's very rewarding!!
 

IMEDICx90

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I'm not sure what part of Ohio you are in, but did a quick search and there's SEVERAL different glass studios in Ohio. You are very lucky, since travel and hotels for class can get pricey!

Here's one that is inexpensive and sounds really interesting: Hot Classes | Glass Axis

Classes is where you would start if you want to do glass, but if the interest is there, it's very rewarding!!

Alright. Well then I guess I better look into a class! :) thank you GG!


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ScandaLeX

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If you've been to indyvaporshop, then I see exactly where you're coming from. There's no drop down options in their site for the Cyclone w/ AFC set. Yes it's just a cap that can either be purchased as a set or by itself. Wherever you're planning to get them from, I suggest to email first to make sure you get the BF model.


So far this is the sexiest RBA i've seen that just complement the looks of the DIBI:D

Too late- my Cyclone came yesterday. I'll hold off on the AFC until I can determine if I really need it.
 

ValHeli

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Too late- my Cyclone came yesterday. I'll hold off on the AFC until I can determine if I really need it.

Initially I drilled the stock cap to 1.5mm - so if you're set with your air hole then you don't need the AFC. I just like it for it's flexibility. Sometimes I like tight draws, and sometimes wide. It dramatically changes the way juices taste and the amount of vapor production. :vapor:
 
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Bimini Twist

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If you've been to indyvaporshop, then I see exactly where you're coming from. There's no drop down options in their site for the Cyclone w/ AFC set. Yes it's just a cap that can either be purchased as a set or by itself. Wherever you're planning to get them from, I suggest to email first to make sure you get the BF model.


So far this is the sexiest RBA i've seen that just complement the looks of the DIBI:D

indyvaporshop now has the set with AFC, but only for the top-fed. Where do you get the AFC cap separately? I've been searching, but not with any success. Also, I like the look of the gold Cyclones at nimbus9vape, but haven't found a BF version. Anybody know where to find one?
 

ValHeli

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indyvaporshop now has the set with AFC, but only for the top-fed. Where do you get the AFC cap separately? I've been searching, but not with any success. Also, I like the look of the gold Cyclones at nimbus9vape, but haven't found a BF version. Anybody know where to find one?

I got mine from here but it seems they don't have the AFC cap anymore. This one is located in San diego, Ca. Try giving them a call, they might have some still available
 

Filthy-Beast

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Yeah buying the cap alone from the UK vs. buying both a bottom feed standard atty and top feed with AFC from Indy vapors only saves a few bucks. I did buy one from the UK for xmas but nobody had the TF with AFC cap in stock.

So either buy both and sell a top feed with standard top on the classies or buy the top feed with AFC and cut or drill it.
 
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