to that FB. There's a world of difference between a "watch" and a "timepiece". I was fortunate to acquire a vintage Nasa certified Speedmaster Professional hand-wound ref. 3570.50PDIB's Making MODs!
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to that FB. There's a world of difference between a "watch" and a "timepiece". I was fortunate to acquire a vintage Nasa certified Speedmaster Professional hand-wound ref. 3570.50
I totally feel this way about watches. Back in the 80s, I did a lot of flying and on EVERY flight they'd have these SkyMiles (??) magazines in front of your seat, and I spent hours upon hours (upon hours) looking at them. Back then, the most prominent ad in there was for Rado watches. The ad was about durability... Rados were INDESTRUCTIBLE. You couldn't drill through the sapphire glass face or the ceramic band with a hand drill. The only parts that you could damage was the 18K gold decorations. Well, that's what I need, indestructible! At the time, I was the master watch breaker. Give me a watch and I'd have it a scratched, worn out mess within a year. So I bought a Rado. And you know, I never took that watch off for 20 years. I'm not kidding. Through showers, swimming, boating, glass work, every condition you could think of. The only reason it finally had a problem was because I got the battery replaced at this cheap jewelry store and they broke the seal and it let a drop of water in. It kept ticking, but there was a single water stain in the face (and I still have the watch, and it will still run). In 2007, my husband bought me another one for our 25 year anniversary, and I've changed the battery once, and I'm sure it will be good til they put me in my grave.... wearing it. Of course, when you have one decent watch, you don't need another one again. I could have fixed the seal on my first one and wore it for 50 years. Couldn't do that with a Timex
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I'm going to send them all to pdib soon as the marine epoxy cures. What do you guys think
I LUV IT!!! Nice work Gigi! It would be
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I think those buttons are a great idea, and a good way to let Pdib mark his progeny w/out marking the entire mod itself!
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I LUV IT!!! Nice work Gigi! It would be nice though if Pdib were to come up with his own logo.. something like:
I keep telling him he needs a logo... or a stamp... but I MOSTLY would like to see the dibi numbered
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I'm going to send them all to pdib soon as the marine epoxy cures. What do you guys think
Think those are pretty neat! Very cool.
I keep telling him he needs a logo... or a stamp... but I MOSTLY would like to see the dibi numbered
..well since you've already made a project out of it.. might as well make him a logo while you're at it!
Nice, mine too, most tested watch in the world.
Well... this looks sorta logo-y... bee-y... (with a number scrawled across the bottom for which mod it is... *cough*)
That's all very interesting, kids; but I've got some logistical stuff to deal with and some hopes to shatter. Someone else bought a piece of stabilized like the one that just failed, and I want them to know what's going on. It's a stabilized curly redwood. Not burl, just wood. . . . Anyone?
wow glassgirl, that is some fine work there. how did you do that tiny bee on that button? you got an eye for details and the skills to back it up, that's for sure. really nice work
as far as stabilized woods I got mine from here: Burl Source Knife Handle Wood
spoke to the guy on the phone, seems like a nice guy to deal with and had my wood sent straight to peter, and I got word from pdib that, and I quote: "Your material is ding-dang strong and will serve well for caps" if that helps anyone.
the vacuum chamber is to remove all air from a piece of wood as it is submerged in the stabilizing resin, and in doing so all of the air that is removed leaves a void that is just naturally filled by the resin. once the wood is fully impregnated it is then cured. many of the resins used in the wood stabilizing process is heat cured, meaning it will stay tacky and uncured until it is heated to it's reaction point.
there are other resins that are instead of heat cure, they are reactive cure. this would be when a curing agent(hardener) is mixed with the base resin and then it chemically reacts and cures no matter what, even at room temperature. the drawback to this type is that it usually cures too fast, the vacuum process can sometimes take a while and a resin that starts curing once it's mixed isn't nearly as easy to work with as a resin that stays liquid until you force it to cure with heat. I don't know enough to say anything with conclusive certainty, but I believe that an A/B reactive mixed resin will be stronger and more "epoxy" like than a heat cured single part product. it's like the difference between a 2 part urethane clearcoat with hardener vs a single component spray can clear coat.
I was considering stabilizing my own wood, so I can control the process and use a good A/B epoxy resin but in the end decided to just say screw it and went with pre stabilized. luckily it worked out well... so far at least
and as far as high end watches goes, if you think there nothing more than jewelery then unfortunately you're completely miss the marvel you are beholding, I see an amazing feat of micro engineering and micro machining and a level of precision that is almost unimaginable to even be created by a human hand. anytime you think something is difficult to engineer just look at a fine watches internals to gain a new perspective. they are an amazing piece of art/engineering that is wonderful to see and amazing to actually own, if you really appreciate it for what it is. I think it's much more than just jewelry, although I don't own any really high end watches. for the money I'd rather buy a much larger mechanical item, one that runs on gasoline, and really moves me literally instead of just figuratively
as far as stabilized woods I got mine from here: Burl Source Knife Handle Wood
spoke to the guy on the phone, seems like a nice guy to deal with and had my wood sent straight to peter, and I got word from pdib that, and I quote: "Your material is ding-dang strong and will serve well for caps" if that helps anyone.
the vacuum chamber is to remove all air from a piece of wood as it is submerged in the stabilizing resin, and in doing so all of the air that is removed leaves a void that is just naturally filled by the resin. once the wood is fully impregnated it is then cured. many of the resins used in the wood stabilizing process is heat cured, meaning it will stay tacky and uncured until it is heated to it's reaction point.
there are other resins that are instead of heat cure, they are reactive cure. this would be when a curing agent(hardener) is mixed with the base resin and then it chemically reacts and cures no matter what, even at room temperature. the drawback to this type is that it usually cures too fast, the vacuum process can sometimes take a while and a resin that starts curing once it's mixed isn't nearly as easy to work with as a resin that stays liquid until you force it to cure with heat. I don't know enough to say anything with conclusive certainty, but I believe that an A/B reactive mixed resin will be stronger and more "epoxy" like than a heat cured single part product. it's like the difference between a 2 part urethane clearcoat with hardener vs a single component spray can clear coat.
I was considering stabilizing my own wood, so I can control the process and use a good A/B epoxy resin but in the end decided to just say screw it and went with pre stabilized. luckily it worked out well... so far at least
and as far as high end watches goes, if you think there nothing more than jewelery then unfortunately you're completely miss the marvel you are beholding, I see an amazing feat of micro engineering and micro machining and a level of precision that is almost unimaginable to even be created by a human hand. anytime you think something is difficult to engineer just look at a fine watches internals to gain a new perspective. they are an amazing piece of art/engineering that is wonderful to see and amazing to actually own, if you really appreciate it for what it is. I think it's much more than just jewelry, although I don't own any really high end watches. for the money I'd rather buy a much larger mechanical item, one that runs on gasoline, and really moves me literally instead of just figuratively
I don't know if there is one... hope there is
.I wanted a bee because pdib's avatar is a bee, and he doesn't have a logo, and I think we all call it a DiBEE.
Plus, who doesn't like bees? They are hard working, they live in wood, they pollinate trees to produce more wood, they make honey that lasts forever (did you know that? Honey is the only organic food that NEVER GOES BAD EVER... they found some in King Tut's tomb, 3000 years old and only crystalized). Honey is used in medicine, as a food, both staple and luxury. Bees and honey are one of the wonders of nature. Bees themselves are essential to life on earth, we'd have a whole lot less fruits and vegetables without them. They are small, they are not flashy, they like teamwork, but they are far more important than the biggest and showiest creatures. It's an inspired symbol
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I don't know if there is one... hope there is
I wanted a bee because pdib's avatar is a bee, and he doesn't have a logo, and I think we all call it a DiBEE.
Plus, who doesn't like bees? They are hard working, they live in wood, they pollinate trees to produce more wood, they make honey that lasts forever (did you know that? Honey is the only organic food that NEVER GOES BAD EVER... they found some in King Tut's tomb, 3000 years old and only crystalized). Honey is used in medicine, as a food, both staple and luxury. Bees and honey are one of the wonders of nature. Bees themselves are essential to life on earth, we'd have a whole lot less fruits and vegetables without them. They are small, they are not flashy, they like teamwork, but they are far more important than the biggest and showiest creatures. It's an inspired symbol
Did not know honey never spoils... feel like a dumb dumb now haha always toss when it crystallizes. oops
Ohoh... my wood is from baddog burl and I have box elder burl and bigleaf maple burl. Are either of those bad? Both are very solid pieces, no holes or cracks, but a lot of brown spots that didn't take the dye (denser?).
Anyone know where to get stabilized blood wood? All I've seen in blocks on google seem to small for this application
GlassGal those are sweet!
Question for everyone... What would be a good BF that has an air hole like the RM2 but would look stunning on the Pdib and drains?
I know I won't have mine for quite some time. But, I've got a couple items up for sale I might trade for something that is recommended here.
Thanks!
Question for everyone... What would be a good BF that has an air hole like the RM2 but would look stunning on the Pdib and drains?
I know I won't have mine for quite some time. But, I've got a couple items up for sale I might trade for something that is recommended here.
Thanks!
Isn't bloodwood like purple heart? Super super dense and hard that can't take stabilization throughout... I remember a while ago, Pdib said he wouldn't do super hard woods and I thought he mentioned purple heart....
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