PDIB's Making MODs!

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e30ernest

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yeah it gurgles sometimes but it's no big deal, just gurgles and vapes fine. it's not like a kayfun or something where gurgling means leaking from the airholes, the immo airholes are up higher so even if the whole airpath has fluid it don't matter much, once you draw it clears enough right away, gurgles like a .... sometimes but air goes through same way and it vapes great

Did you just drill a hole on the positive screw/contact?

what kind of an " . . . . . " gurgles? :blink:

Lol!
 

turbocad6

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I typed b o n g but the censor blocked it :D

here is how to make the immo bf

20131130_002342_zps5fbabd7a.jpg



20131130_002528_zpscc22905b.jpg
 

pdib

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^^Nope. What, ernest, you didn't read all 396 pages? What I mentioned before is; when the pos. 510 pin also serves as mount for the beryllium copper leaf contact, juice feed tube, isn't located directly above the battery with screw on tube shaped mod top and yada yada, it's kin'a hard to make it wiggle like a snake too. What's more, rather than focusing on flush mounting with a bf system, you're really looking for a good seating of the oring that hides under the atty . . .. . keep the juice from dribbling down your chin. I have, however been observing (from pics that folks have posted) that my efforts to establish a good fixed height seem to be ballparking it pretty good. You're gonna see some gap because you really can't expect (IMHO) to get good solid contact at the 510+, AND good seating on an oring for juice control, AND a perfect flush mount on the topcap WITH a fixed 510+pin and ~.5mm variation in atties. One thing that may help you sleep soundly tho, is that it's not a tube mod, and the dissimilar shapes, materials, and colors are more forgiving to the eye re: flush mounting concerns.

I was just looking at this one from X-puppy the other day . ..

Origin2.JPG


Origin3.JPG


found here . . .. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...11889-pdibs-making-mods-370.html#post12373371
 
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ratchet62

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^^Nope. What, ernest, you didn't read all 396 pages?

Hahaha sorry bro I haven't been doing my homework. :D I promise to read up eventually. :D

Use your phone or tablet. Fire up Tapatalk. Set the posts per page at 30, then you only have 132 pages to wade through!
 

cecsystems

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4 or 5! By then i lose concentration.

As for "remnants of umbilical cords" - ewww! I suppose if it turned out to be a good kid instead of a brat like me, you could clone another!


T

I think perhaps a 5/6 wrap to get between .6 - .8 may be my sweet spot for the MM... Talk about time consuming to get it setup to even begin to wrap... oh and don't get it twisted... just sayin... however it is an interesting exercise. My shoulder still hurts... lol. I weighed my REO with the batt & rm2 and guess what? exactly 6.5 oz. I just stuck the folded ribbon a little way in between the drip tip and cap and held on for life... lol. But OH the flavor... twisted 28 is second best (and easier to work) I didn't drill the RM2 wire holes... just did the dibi cat dance and boom (capture) dancing-cat-smiley-emoticon.jpg I did drill the air hole out to 1/16 thou...
 

pdib

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Nice! 6.5oz, hah! Btw, if you do a ballpark wrap of MM, pinch the legs (fingers are fine), slide it off the jig and give it a mellow/quick pass under a torch (just a quick glowing of the wire) . .. . . it becomes supremely malleable and plastic (stays where you put it). So, I usually just quickly whip my # wraps on a jig, torch it, and then back on the jig and fiddle with the details. Also, FYI, I don't scrunch my Mundy's anymore.
 

cecsystems

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Nice! 6.5oz, hah! Btw, if you do a ballpark wrap of MM, pinch the legs (fingers are fine), slide it off the jig and give it a mellow/quick pass under a torch (just a quick glowing of the wire) . .. . . it becomes supremely malleable and plastic (stays where you put it). So, I usually just quickly whip my # wraps on a jig, torch it, and then back on the jig and fiddle with the details. Also, FYI, I don't scrunch my Mundy's anymore.

By scrunching are you referring to the legs to inset into the holes or the coil in general? It should be easier to get less wraps (than the 8 I did) in the RM2 space and since I was only able to get the MM in just far enough on one side of the posts to capture it, I had to be pretty accurate on "leg length" Did you drill your RM2 out for the MM? I've not done that; as I wanted to be sure I could run the greatest diversity of coil... Not quite the "Merry Christmas Coil" as shown in another thread, :cool: but you get the idea... lol. If you did drill it? what did you drill it out to? :confused:
 

pdib

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I meant scrunching like tightly stacked or compressed coils. I think the MM comes out to about 1mm in diameter. So, I've drilled to ~1.2mm and found that to be enough. (I think, before, I drilled all the way to 1.4mm; but that may be excessive.) If you increase drill bit sizes incrementally (say, in 3 steps), and "push up" in the drilling process, you can enlarge the hole mostly upward. (since the brass post is soft enough to jigger that way). If your enlargement doesn't affect the bottom of the opening much (doesn't lower it), then you don't compromise the post for thinner wires. Basically, you're not messing with where the screw bottoms out.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Well boys and girls I have some good news and some bad news.

Good news first.
I figured out how to get some small metal shavings off the magnets.
Took the same style magnets in a plastic bag with a wetted paper towel on the dibi and lifted towel and plastic bag and they stayed on the paper towel.

7c6eb437e57c4c73e8314b942e169a98_zpsd736c237.jpg


Now the bad.
I have thrown my OliveR again and caused a slight amount of damage.:facepalm:

0f819ad6bc0e5a9facf09c612da704c5_zpsee8a151a.jpg



12e7d2ae53e24a298c474693e2449d9e_zpsb9fe6b2e.jpg


pdib, should I leave well enough alone and just put some CA there or sand the rugged edges first? :confused:
 

ScandaLeX

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Well boys and girls I have some good news and some bad news.

Good news first.
I figured out how to get some small metal shavings off the magnets.
Took the same style magnets in a plastic bag with a wetted paper towel on the dibi and lifted towel and plastic bag and they stayed on the paper towel.

Now the bad.
I have thrown my OliveR again and caused a slight amount of damage.:facepalm:

pdib, should I leave well enough alone and just put some CA there or sand the rugged edges first? :confused:

May I ask...... Who am I fooling..... I'm gonna ask anyway. :p
Why do you keep throwing your OliveR Dibi?
Just the fact you do makes me dab my eyes with a tissue. Abuse!
 

pdib

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Well boys and girls I have some good news and some bad news.

Good news first.
I figured out how to get some small metal shavings off the magnets.
Took the same style magnets in a plastic bag with a wetted paper towel on the dibi and lifted towel and plastic bag and they stayed on the paper towel.

7c6eb437e57c4c73e8314b942e169a98_zpsd736c237.jpg


Now the bad.
I have thrown my OliveR again and caused a slight amount of damage.:facepalm:

0f819ad6bc0e5a9facf09c612da704c5_zpsee8a151a.jpg



12e7d2ae53e24a298c474693e2449d9e_zpsb9fe6b2e.jpg


pdib, should I leave well enough alone and just put some CA there or sand the rugged edges first? :confused:

You know what you need there, Mundy? You need to get you another OliveR before that one doesn't work anymore. :|


As it is, what I would do with it is: almost nothing. It looks like the caps will still fit snug and not wiggle. Any sanding or paring would only remove more material. I would, however, examine those areas closely with magnification and search for cracks/fractures. If any are to be found, I would carefully wick thin CA into the cracks, and maybe, maybe gently wick a little CA into the exposed/broken surfaces with a CA dipped q-tip (the q-tip doesn't start to stick for about 10 sec. at least, if it's saturated or dipped in the CA).
 
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