PDIB's Making MODs!

[supertrunker]

Work was good today, sensible conversation and excellent productivity on account of me being there alone! I have some bits and bobs that HRH will mail to you Monday Dibby and i finally drilled my igo-w4 airholes bigger so, game on!

T

 

[pdib]

cool, thank you, Trunks!

 

[pdib]

I'm relieved that our dear GG doesn't want a pony. I don't think I could find a Sharpie big enough to mark that kin'a beast up . . . . .. color the top black and what not.

 

[supertrunker]

Good luck putting the serial number on the inside!

T

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Someone . . . . .. someone considerate and wiser than I . . . . .. I won't say whom (he's welcome to confess himself) . . .. suggested that it might be a good time to reiterate that I'm offering an "intermediate user's" device here. A "modder's mod", if you will. It does presume that one know something about simple electrical currents, screw-and-nut mechanics, and can troubleshoot a little. My friend was concerned that, with many pretty pictures circulating, it might get lost that this isn't meant to be a zero maintenance, plug-and-play, mindless experience.

So, I'm mentioning it.

And thanks for the reminder, mysterious personage.

A modder's mod huh?

I removed the spring and put a plastic spring I had in and this confirmed that the spring was needed for a current path, at least in stock configuration.

I took a contact from a relay I had laying around and trapped the non contact end under the 510 nut.

Then I realized that it would require taking the dremel to the body for it to clear.

So I mustered the courage to lay Isaac on the alter.

I had taken my inital voltage drop reading with an SX30, however now an SX30 was too long to do comparison checking with.

So I used an AW to take a reading, removed the contact and took another reading. .06V more voltage drop with the added contact? Had an idea what might be going on and took a piece of the contact I had cut off that wouldn't be long enough to go to the battery and inserted it under the 510 nut. Suspicion confirmed, I lost good contact from the 510 to the plate due to the narrow contact being the only real connection between the two. That is all the time I have today since I have a very large print to estimate that has to be done this weekend, but I will try to find a contact that is large enough on the non contact end to go around the 510 so the nut seats all the way around another day. Which leads to another problem, I couldn't get the brass nut off the center pin due to the CA applied that went down into the threads. I will have to find some thin nuts to wedge together on the center pin so I can hold it firmly while trying to get the brass nut loose.

 

[glassgal]

8-o

 

[pdib]

I'm so glad you're playing, Mundy!!



I'll also take the opportunity to mention, as I harken back to figuring out how this thing was gonna work, that there's a definite balance between performance and practicality. I had thought about running a becu leaf from the head of the contact to some part of the plate (far enough away as to allow for the distance of the throw). But, basically, when I fired it up without. . . . .. I thought, this is better. I'm running my BeCu tab (as per yesterday) with good results. It's very easy to fabricate, install, and is basically disposable/replaceable and skipable. It took yesterday eve. and this a.m. to get to where the button push is as smooth as without. (rubbing that little puppy into shape). So far, I'm gonna keep it in there tho. It definitely hits harder.

 

[pdib]

As for the superglue: one of my beta friends had a bit of leaking from there. I had originally hoped the fact that the tube was screwed onto threads would be sufficient. The superglue dablet seals it up nicely. It does, however, make disassembling the 510 assembly much harder. I imagine I could skip the superglue, and folks could add that as is warranted. (?) Or, y'all could request y/n "sealed tube". If one is inclined to fiddle and fix themselves (to DIY), they could opt to add glue as needed. If one wants the illusion of plug and play (and intends to send it back for all servicing) they could request glue. For the time being, I'll make the glued tube the default. Please feel free to request an unglued tube.



ADDIT: I have refined my superglue application technique since I made Mundy's. Run#2 has the absolute minimum of glue in (hopefully) only the exact place it needs it.

 

[glassgal]

As for the superglue: one of my beta friends had a bit of leaking from there. I had originally hoped the fact that the tube was screwed onto threads would be sufficient. The superglue dablet seals it up nicely. It does, however, make disassembling the 510 assembly much harder. I imagine I could skip the superglue, and folks could add that as is warranted. (?) Or, y'all could request y/n "sealed tube". If one is inclined to fiddle and fix themselves (to DIY), they could opt to add glue as needed. If one wants the illusion of plug and play (and intends to send it back for all servicing) they could request glue. For the time being, I'll make the glued tube the default. Please feel free to request an unglued tube.

ADDIT: I have refined my superglue application technique since I made Mundy's. Run#2 has the absolute minimum of glue in (hopefully) only the exact place it needs it.

Box of penny screw anchors from Home Depot?

Well, Lowes (not sure if you can get really small ones):

About anchors:
http://www.fastenermart.com/html/anchors.html

The 50 ways to anchor in unstable/stripped holes (w/ nifty gifs!):
http://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Loose-Wood-Screw-Hole-for-a-Hinge

 

[supertrunker]

A bit of superglue never stopped me wrecking 510 connections!

Mundy has better dremelling skill than me, my 2 airholes on my igo both look like they have a little teardrop engraved under them (soppy old HRH), but in fact it's where it got away from me.

T

 

[glassgal]

Oops. I thought you were talking about the little screw between the magnets

 

[MasterofNone]

you . . .. . are a poop.


X-puppy, here's a spring de-railer. It's crude, I know. But it works great. #5 drill bit (5.17mm) is snug enough that it runs rough for the first couple button presses; but the spring pushes it down onto the grounding plate and that shaft . . .. baby that shaft is always rubbin' it. . . . .. . wooooooh-aaaahhhhhhh. I'll let you know if it smooths out on the action with a little workout.

Oh .. . . for those just passing through. The mod works great, AS-IS. We just milkin' it.



And Trunks, go ahead . . . .. . hit me

So for the really thick around here ( just me, probably) the becu "patch" is nestled around the post sans screw. That touches the bottom of the top cap, and when the button is pressed. The post hits the battery and completes the circuit? How is the button spring back into the open position?

Edit: never mind. Spring lol so the copper than BYPASSES the spring? Like in your later post where you have a copper flap hanging out on the bottom of your reo?


Further edit: would it still be good to have the screw in there? And maybe a spacer between screw head and copper? Or am I being thick again?
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[Xobeloot]

I want this one

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[supertrunker]

That one only takes 18350s

T

 

[X-Puppy]

The spring and the copper patch along with the spring and button are all on the top side of the top plate. You still need the screw head and spacers (if used) on the other/battery side of the top plate. The screw head contact point to the battery doesn't change.

 

[timk]

What are the dimensions of the stock spring? I have a couple silver plated and one rhodium silver plated springs from my poldiac. For fun I put the rhodium spring in my grand today and it made a big difference. I'll test voltages and measure springs in a bit.

 

[MasterofNone]

Thank you puppy


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[timk]

the rhodium silver plated spring is .1655" ID on the small end, .2265" OD on the small end, and .4210" OD on the big end. About .45" uncompressed height. fits over top the stock reo spring pretty nicely.

measured at the post screws which are stainless on a igo-s on a stock reo grand.

aw imr 1600, battery voltage before: 4.08v

.6ohm coil (8 wraps 24 gauge kanthal on 14g luer lock needle)

no extra spring 3.14v under load

add rhodium spring 3.45v under load

fired until voltage stabilized; took reading then.

battery voltage after test 4.04v

I haven't cleaned the firing pin in a while so there could be more there. I know I lose safety but it just hits so much better now. Curious how the Cyclone does because it hits harder than the igo-s. my igo-s has brass center post and I modded it myself for bf. just never has hit as hard as the Cyclone.

curious what the spring would do on an OliveR

 

[pdib]

Well, Tim. Bunch of stuff going on here. The REO spring is designed to have a lot of resistance. It's its own resistance that causes it to heat and melt. It's just contradictory to low res. vaping. So, even my stock spring is WAY better. Just because it's not designed to heat and melt under higher amperage. It's only designed to conduct. So, the difference between my spring and the perfect spring (at, say, .5Ω) is going to be in the range of 0.05V . . .. not 0.3V.

The REO spring is a great safety feature. I'm pretty sure Rob selected it when 1.5Ω was considered SLR. It worked beautifully for ALL the atomizers available at the time. So, now he's doing the Rob thing, and making big investments in updating his hardware to meet a small subsection of the current day market. Hats off to him.

Spring fit. My post is ~5mm diam. The spring (on it's wider end) can be ~3/8", give or take. It's height would be relative to it's gauge/strength in compression. ~1/4".

 

[pdib]

All that said, my beat up, dirty old mod is hitting harder with the becu shim shortcutting the spring. So, a better spring would be an improvement. As x-puppy just mentioned to me in PM, at .4Ω, one notices these minor differences. When selecting parts for the mod, I need to keep a balance. My modder's instinct is always wanting to rip a part out of something else, and see what it does. Trouble is, to have a reliable, repeatable standard, my choices are limited to things that I can order in lots of 50 or 100, when I need them. Furthermore, I need to order things at prices that prove reasonable to the end user. Today we're discussing springs, tomorrow it could be some other single part of the mod. If each of the parts costs 10 x as much . . . . it adds up. So, what I was trying to do was to provide a VERY decent vape reliably; but in a format where those peeps who want to swap out a couple parts and soup things up could do so easily. Not to say I wouldn't jump on it if someone provided me with a link to "perfect springs cheap . com".