PDIB's Making MODs!

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Borescoped

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All that said, my beat up, dirty old mod is hitting harder with the becu shim shortcutting the spring. So, a better spring would be an improvement. As x-puppy just mentioned to me in PM, at .4Ω, one notices these minor differences. When selecting parts for the mod, I need to keep a balance. My modder's instinct is always wanting to rip a part out of something else, and see what it does. Trouble is, to have a reliable, repeatable standard, my choices are limited to things that I can order in lots of 50 or 100, when I need them. Furthermore, I need to order things at prices that prove reasonable to the end user. Today we're discussing springs, tomorrow it could be some other single part of the mod. If each of the parts costs 10 x as much . . . . it adds up. So, what I was trying to do was to provide a VERY decent vape reliably; but in a format where those peeps who want to swap out a couple parts and soup things up could do so easily. Not to say I wouldn't jump on it if someone provided me with a link to "perfect springs cheap . com".

To translate into car terms for myself, Pdib made a muscle car that is pretty impressive for the money... But is ready for the aftermarket exhaust system, suspension and power adders.

I knew it was the right call to get on the list!


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timk

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Well, Tim. Bunch of stuff going on here. The REO spring is designed to have a lot of resistance. It's its own resistance that causes it to heat and melt. It's just contradictory to low res. vaping. So, even my stock spring is WAY better. Just because it's not designed to heat and melt under higher amperage. It's only designed to conduct. So, the difference between my spring and the perfect spring (at, say, .5Ω) is going to be in the range of 0.05V . . .. not 0.3V.

The REO spring is a great safety feature. I'm pretty sure Rob selected it when 1.5Ω was considered SLR. It worked beautifully for ALL the atomizers available at the time. So, now he's doing the Rob thing, and making big investments in updating his hardware to meet a small subsection of the current day market. Hats off to him.

Spring fit. My post is ~5mm diam. The spring (on it's wider end) can be ~3/8", give or take. It's height would be relative to it's gauge/strength in compression. ~1/4".

That all makes sense to me. Was just playing around today. More in an effort to keep from melting my reo spring as I am preferring lower and lower ohm coils as I progress. Enjoy tinkering too. Not trying to "fix" anything really, more just play and prevent me from melting my reo :)
 

timk

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To translate into car terms for myself, Pdib made a muscle car that is pretty impressive for the money... But is ready for the aftermarket exhaust system, suspension and power adders.

I knew it was the right call to get on the list!


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I built a 400 hp turbo crx for drag racing lol it was fun but not very competitive. I like your analogy :)
 

pdib

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So, with the REO spring, it doesn't get tricky until you try to maintain or substitute for the safety element of the hot spring. I'm a big advocate of folks knowing what they're doing before choosing to skip an element of safety. It's a knowledge that needs translate to gut level, IMHO. It's one thing to understand what makes a relatively safe, reliable battery and why. It's another to know that if your mod isn't firing, it doesn't mean that you should stand on the button until it does. (It might just mean you have a hard short and your battery is approaching thermal runaway as you keep holding that button down.)


(not directed at anyone in particular . . . . just blathering)
 

Bimini Twist

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A modder's mod huh?

I removed the spring and put a plastic spring I had in and this confirmed that the spring was needed for a current path, at least in stock configuration.

I took a contact from a relay I had laying around and trapped the non contact end under the 510 nut.

23b5385bd519c76a0b75bdc9c8363c2b_zps2f863e4e.jpg


Then I realized that it would require taking the dremel to the body for it to clear. :facepalm:

So I mustered the courage to lay Isaac on the alter.

ab42a1ffad990cede282797d29a53dab_zps0158b1ca.jpg


I had taken my inital voltage drop reading with an SX30, however now an SX30 was too long to do comparison checking with. :facepalm: :facepalm:

So I used an AW to take a reading, removed the contact and took another reading. .06V more voltage drop with the added contact? Had an idea what might be going on and took a piece of the contact I had cut off that wouldn't be long enough to go to the battery and inserted it under the 510 nut. Suspicion confirmed, I lost good contact from the 510 to the plate due to the narrow contact being the only real connection between the two. That is all the time I have today since I have a very large print to estimate that has to be done this weekend, but I will try to find a contact that is large enough on the non contact end to go around the 510 so the nut seats all the way around another day. Which leads to another problem, I couldn't get the brass nut off the center pin due to the CA applied that went down into the threads. I will have to find some thin nuts to wedge together on the center pin so I can hold it firmly while trying to get the brass nut loose.

That is very much like what I was thinking when this topic came up . . . I got too busy to mention it, but I was thinking "teletype key." Looks as if you've already started on it.
 

pdib

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Oh, you know what I was gonna mention . . . . with this Mundy strip, and where to cinch it . . . . .. . nowhere. If it's attached to the contact, the other end of the strip could just as well be hangin' out the side of the mod, just so long as it's getting pinched between the body and the grounding plate.
 

timk

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So, with the REO spring, it doesn't get tricky until you try to maintain or substitute for the safety element of the hot spring. I'm a big advocate of folks knowing what they're doing before choosing to skip an element of safety. It's a knowledge that needs translate to gut level, IMHO. It's one thing to understand what makes a relatively safe, reliable battery and why. It's another to know that if your mod isn't firing, it doesn't mean that you should stand on the button until it does. (It might just mean you have a hard short and your battery is approaching thermal runaway as you keep holding that button down.)


(not directed at anyone in particular . . . . just blathering)

Now that I got a taste of the better conductivity, I'm going to move forward with the fuse mod. I do like not melting my face off :)
 

Borescoped

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Glassgal will want a pony now and the shipping will be horrendous! Come to think of it i could use one too, price of gas as it is etc. Buy a pony and get a free Dibi. Catchy.

T

She could get a pony like I've got for my avatar, then she'd be ready for the Dibi!


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