yeah, I wasn't up to speed on that. So two things (one each) are always touching the battery and the pos. pin, and then a third thing touches both of them at the same time? The third thing is the boat?
PDIB's Making MODs!
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I was gonna say maybe little contact slippers. Little disposable foil covers for the contact screw . .. .
. .. and then I realized, my contacts are virtually disposable. Grab a handful of little flathead brass screws. Swap it out when it starts to run slow. Pickle the batch for 10 minutes when your on the last one (or not. .. . . . . .what are they, like 13¢/pc?)
(#8/32 x 1/4" or 3/8"). Might try this, just to see.
. .. and then I realized, my contacts are virtually disposable. Grab a handful of little flathead brass screws. Swap it out when it starts to run slow. Pickle the batch for 10 minutes when your on the last one (or not. .. . . . . .what are they, like 13¢/pc?)
(#8/32 x 1/4" or 3/8"). Might try this, just to see.
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I agree I love my reo's too, doesn't have to be an either/or type deal. actually as far as the metal ones I like the billet metal body shell for durability, the guts I didn't have too much use for though
the woodvilles are really cool too and I love mine, again, as a shell mostly, they do seem pretty fat and bloated next to a dibi though dibi's a 2 seater sports car in comparison to an suv both have there place and use that would be awesome because flexing will allow way more contact areas within the contact area
thats the best mech switching method, battery contacts being just polished highly conductive and not make/break, that happens remotely with silver contacts, they last and last without ever having to touch them, I never cleaned my poldiac or ever felt the need, hits rock solid each and every time. you also don't really need large contacts when you have good contacts, so little of the metal actually touches when you look at it microscopically, that's why best contacts are polished and smooth for most surface contact but don't necessarily benefit from being excessively large. the poldiacs bars make plenty of contact really and the way there designed they contact flat for a long contact surface because of it being a bar. when we talked about this last I drew a few sketches of ways to mod the dibi for this type of setup but I didn't post them because I didn't want to suggest making more work for you. it actually can be relatively easy and work with you're overall design rather than changing it but will require a few custom machined parts rather than off the shelf hardware and would certainly complicate thing a little at least
ok and one more dibi shot, this time firing the chalice
I didn't have the patience for a z coil so I did a normal coil at the air hole, dibi's vaping so damn sweet tonight 
I was thinking of a switch where everything is always touching, just sometimes current runs through it and sometimes not. Contacts get dirty because of the little wee electrons jumping when the boat gets close enough, and then when it's just pulled away from the dock. .. . . . . . . . . . . no?
there has to be a make/break, otherwise what's to control sometimes running current and sometimes not? only way to truly do what your talking about is electronically. which is the main reason I usually prefer electronic switching over mech usually
I think I saw these two together at a bar in Detroit in the late. 80's. They rocked.
Master of Bassets...and not much else.
I was thinking of a switch where everything is always touching, just sometimes current runs through it and sometimes not. Contacts get dirty because of the little wee electrons jumping when the boat gets close enough, and then when it's just pulled away from the dock. .. . . . . . . . . . . no?
It's called a Mosfet, but that ain't mechanical.
Perfect dwcraig1, will let that tumble around in the noggin while working on prints today.
Thanks
Thanks
I'm surprised that two round contacts coming together with such a small foot print even works, but it does work quite well
Yes, exactly
I can take a pic of it if you want. For the OliveR, I was thinking something like this (see below). The spring or magnet button thing needs to be worked out (part that breaks connection) but this is what I was thinking about last night. You have a conductive center pin that makes contact with battery with an insulator ring. Button has a metal conductor on the bottom side that bridges the battery contact piece with the top plate. Crude drawing I know, I'm more of a keyboard warrior than an artist 
. 
Edit: This is probably not worth the effort after reading turbocad's post a little ways back. Not intending to create more work for pdib, just tossin out ideas.
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Good news and bad news.I'm on the list-RAH.I have to wait till Dec-BOO.Actually Boo-Hoo.
Think of it as your Christmas gift and make it your motivation to not be naughty and to be nice.
Yes, exactly
View attachment 319554
Edit: This is probably not worth the effort after reading turbocad's post a little ways back. Not intending to create more work for pdib, just tossin out ideas.
Looks kin'a like what I just tried last week. (kin'a) Just rushing by tho, didn't look too close.
I consider Rob and Pete friends of mine although were yet to meet. It would be awesome to get both of em together for some shots of patron around a raging firepit.
I think theirs a synergy between the two, their products and their way of thinking.
I think their mods compliment each other perfectly and any serious vaper that will settle for nothing but the best, most reliable and hassle free vape would definitely desire both.
Now I never saw myself using anything but REOs and I never even give a second look to any other mods but REOs. Until I stumbled across this thread by my friend pdib. Once I saw his idea of a mod and how it ticked I wanted one. Cause I know pdib is about quality, ingenuity and safety wringing the max performance out of his gear.
I think there's plenty of demand for both REOs and OliveRs and both Rob and Pete will benefit from each other. Let's face it, no serious vaper is gonna try to get by with just an OliveR. Now an OliveR is anything but delicate and it's easy to clean up but it ain't the kind of mod this kids gonna be takin dirt biking, yard workin or to the beach / pool. Because if I am careless with it and marr it I'm gonna freak. Times like those demand a mod I can go online, order and have a replacement in 2 or 3 days. Same with my REO woodvil.
These 2 mods define the pinnacle of vape experience for me - excellent performance, rare / exclusive and sublime to vape. Probably like owning a Paganini Zonda.
You just ain't gonna get these very often because of very limited runs.
These mods define my practical everyday vape experience, excellent performance, utility, replaceable and awesome vape. Probably like owning a Porsche Cayenne S.
I have no fanatical alliance to anyone or anything but my SHCW and the kids we have but I am loyal to the few friends I have. I'm just very lucky to have 2 friends who make kick AYuss vape gear.
I think theirs a synergy between the two, their products and their way of thinking.
I think their mods compliment each other perfectly and any serious vaper that will settle for nothing but the best, most reliable and hassle free vape would definitely desire both.
Now I never saw myself using anything but REOs and I never even give a second look to any other mods but REOs. Until I stumbled across this thread by my friend pdib. Once I saw his idea of a mod and how it ticked I wanted one. Cause I know pdib is about quality, ingenuity and safety wringing the max performance out of his gear.
I think there's plenty of demand for both REOs and OliveRs and both Rob and Pete will benefit from each other. Let's face it, no serious vaper is gonna try to get by with just an OliveR. Now an OliveR is anything but delicate and it's easy to clean up but it ain't the kind of mod this kids gonna be takin dirt biking, yard workin or to the beach / pool. Because if I am careless with it and marr it I'm gonna freak. Times like those demand a mod I can go online, order and have a replacement in 2 or 3 days. Same with my REO woodvil.
These 2 mods define the pinnacle of vape experience for me - excellent performance, rare / exclusive and sublime to vape. Probably like owning a Paganini Zonda.
You just ain't gonna get these very often because of very limited runs.
These mods define my practical everyday vape experience, excellent performance, utility, replaceable and awesome vape. Probably like owning a Porsche Cayenne S.
I have no fanatical alliance to anyone or anything but my SHCW and the kids we have but I am loyal to the few friends I have. I'm just very lucky to have 2 friends who make kick AYuss vape gear.
kinda, but instead of laterally pulling fire button to side, you push the button down onto the alum top plate and center pin. (unless I missed something last week
) the center pin, insulator, and top plate would make a flat surface. The button would have a flat conductive disc (alum, copper, brass, unubtanium maybe?) under it that would come down and make connection to top plate and center pin. center pin would prob need a nat's whisker worth of squish though so it would make solid contact. This all falls apart for me when I try to think of a way to put a spring in to keep button/switch normally open. Ends up overly complicated. Especially when what you have is working great; word on the street anyway. Hi All, Just thought id let you know , I tried the tip about clipping my spring a bit to shorten the throw and I like the throw much better now and the bottom cap doesnt fall off anymore when I fire it even if i dont use my pinky to support it. I cut off about 1/4 of an inch. When i disassembled the firing button, there was a black goop all in the spring and all over the button. It looked like naolox but I havent put any naolox on it, was that just oxidation build up ? After cleaning and clipping the spring its hitting better. Also , i got in on the last buy of chalices with the 1/16 hole - I am seeing some of you post about your chalices but I have not received mine yet and i didnt get tracking info even though Mark did confirm my purchase. Are the videos being posted with the chalices you got form the last round? I cant wait to get my Chalice and would love to at least get the tracking info
This a great idea, it would require that battery positive connection be in the same place even if length of the battery changes
Oh yeah... To address a question asked earlier (forget who asked)... I do build my chalice side-slung just like an RM2. It is just as nice of a vape as a center "z" coil with little fuss.
I make z-style coils w/ 28g, but 26 becomes a real bear. Side-mounting is much more functional with the super-sub ohm builds for air placement and heat management. The air chamber is just as tiny no matter which way the coil dangles.
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I make z-style coils w/ 28g, but 26 becomes a real bear. Side-mounting is much more functional with the super-sub ohm builds for air placement and heat management. The air chamber is just as tiny no matter which way the coil dangles.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
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