PDIB's Making MODs!

[glassgal]

I was just checking the battery length for one of my peeps . . .

Is this the LG everyone's talking about? Why does this chart say Max. Continuous Discharge 20A?

LG HE2 18650 35 Amp High Drain 2500mAh Rechargeable Battery Flat Top | eBay

I have both this (LG ICR18650HE2 ) and the Samsung (Samsung INR18650- 20R 2000mAh ) side by side on my desk and they are the exact same height. If anything, the LG are a hair shorter.

I don't have the AW 1600, but I have the AW 2000 mAh, and it's the entire button taller than both (between .5-1 mm).

The Panasonic NCR18650 is the same height as the AW button top, sans the button, and also taller than either Samsung or LG.

 

[pdib]

The LG sounds good. I don't mean to dis. it. I just like when the actual Amp rating (really, the max continuous) is touted, rather than . . . . . some random number that's even higher than the burst. . . . .


Also, superlow v-drop and low internal res. are neat; but there's a practical limit, methinks, and $6.99 for well under the practical limit is less than (?) $15.99 (??).

 

[IMEDICx90]

Paging Mr Mundy!!!!


Ok so I'm installing a DNA30 board in my vtr, and I'm gonna use the on board firing button and voltage buttons. I have the fire button figured out, but I don't have anything worked out for the voltage buttons. Can I use a piece of welding rod as the switch that extends above the surface of the vtr? Or would it be more beneficial to install the actual buttons a little higher then the board and ignore the onboard buttons all together?

 

[ValHeli]

Hi Ernie! Do you live in the Phils. or just on vacation? What part? I ask bec. i was able to get a piece of copper from one (of the many) machine shops there. I was just driving through Manila when I spotted one and so happened they got a scrap pile.

I've had my REO grand for 5 months now w/ the copper leaf mod. I haven't filed or used noalox on any contacts.

This is interesting. How much better was "better"? This sounds the problem with mine where the positive contact (that point on the leaf spring) oxidized rather quickly after each hit. Did you spot any arcing while you were pressing the button? That melted button is indicative of that happening. You might want to file the positive tip a little harder and apply Noalox.

I don't have Noalox (or any anti-oxidant contact grease) available here in my country so I ended up using Vaseline. I still have to file my positive contact every week or so to keep performance up. My positive contact has been worn to a flat end now.

 

[pdib]

. . . .. . it's magnet time.

 

[Kn0ttYFive]

. . . .. . it's magnet time.

 

[supertrunker]

I will not tell you how i run my Dibi or my Reos because MoN will tell me off! If he knew that i used magnets and fuses and modified buttons on a Reo...

I'm also not telling HRH because it's none of her business and as long as she happily uses her 1.5Ω coils.

Nice tweaking Mr M, interesting to see how that works out. I have the becu spring, but i'm playing with some gaskets i made too, since i want to be able to use my other 30A batteries and not have to adjust much! MNKEs etc are flat-tops.

T

 

[supertrunker]

. . . .. . it's magnet time.

Those look a bit on the thick side, got some dimensions?

T

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Paging Mr Mundy!!!!


Ok so I'm installing a DNA30 board in my vtr, and I'm gonna use the on board firing button and voltage buttons. I have the fire button figured out, but I don't have anything worked out for the voltage buttons. Can I use a piece of welding rod as the switch that extends above the surface of the vtr? Or would it be more beneficial to install the actual buttons a little higher then the board and ignore the onboard buttons all together?

I am not a DNA expert by any means, but if you do use the on board buttons make sure the rod travels straight and true and doesn't put any side pressure on them. That is from experience with tactile switches other than the DNA but should hold true for it as well.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Those look a bit on the thick side, got some dimensions?

T

3/16" X 1/8" if they are the same as in mine.

 

[Treebeard]

That's designed for vaping in the higher registers (well above 1Ω, methinks). It's got a low trip rating (dunno, 2-3A?), and I'm sure they didn't design it around v-drop at the time. If you happen to vape at 1.5Ω or something; might be great.

Vaping at .7Ω on fully mech EA and Cronus clones mods using 2cent. The 2cents haven't blown yet (3mo.). Getting a kickazz, extremely satisfying vape. Dam'n things probably don't work.

 

[ValHeli]

Hey WF, magnet time means major progress in the current production run.

someone please help me out here, I'm trying to find Pdib's original post on "magnet time"

 

[Kn0ttYFive]

Hey WF, magnet time means major progress in the current production run.

someone please help me out here, I'm trying to find Pdib's original post on "magnet time"

Sooooo outta place here. I'll go stand in the corner and fake talk on my cell phone. lol

 

[IMEDICx90]

I am not a DNA expert by any means, but if you do use the on board buttons make sure the rod travels straight and true and doesn't put any side pressure on them. That is from experience with tactile switches other than the DNA but should hold true for it as well.

I was more worries about the rod being a conductor, and causing a disrupt in the current. I'm not familiar enough with onboard switches. Lol but I figured you would be able to shed some light on it.

Do you think it would just be easier to wire in switches instead? I mean it's built for it and I have several, but I just was gonna try to keep it simple.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...511889-pdibs-making-mods-90.html#post12328254

Started gluing in magnets this afternoon.

"What does that mean?" you ask.

It means, that's where I'm at with run#2.

"And, where is that, exactly? . . .. . with the magnets n' all."

Oh, let's see . .. . after a few runs, it'll mean something. Doesn't right now; but if I post little tidbits like this, after a while, you'll start to see a pattern. If I don't post little tidbits like this, it will never eventually make a sensible pattern.


" . . .. and then we'll say, 'oh, it's magnet time!' . .. . . like that?"


Pretty much.

 

[Kn0ttYFive]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...511889-pdibs-making-mods-90.html#post12328254
Originally Posted by pdib View Post
Started gluing in magnets this afternoon.

"What does that mean?" you ask.

It means, that's where I'm at with run#2.

"And, where is that, exactly? . . .. . with the magnets n' all."

Oh, let's see . .. . after a few runs, it'll mean something. Doesn't right now; but if I post little tidbits like this, after a while, you'll start to see a pattern. If I don't post little tidbits like this, it will never eventually make a sensible pattern.


" . . .. and then we'll say, 'oh, it's magnet time!' . .. . . like that?"


Pretty much.

 

[SkinyFatMan]

. . . .. . it's magnet time.

Yay! Magnet Time!

BTW, I just got my vape mail from pdib with the spring and screws. Just in case (and so I don't f.... it up) , where exactly should they all go?

Spring under button, screws for the top to make connection at the top right?

 

[supertrunker]

Precisely! Dibby is on about the progress of the latest batch and Mundy and i are messing about with modifications to ours.

It's not always like this, sometimes there are pics and everyone 'oohh's and aahhh's' over those too, interspersed with Nietsche quotes from GG and the odd Dibi Dance. I think that about sums it up.



T

 

[pdib]

screws for the top to make connection at the top right?

Yeah, brass screw would replace the battery contact in the switch (like that pic I posted a short while back . . . . .. god, I must'a spent like four hours taking that pic and posting it . . . . . good thing it feels like it was all worth the trouble)

 

[Treebeard]

Not to mention that, if your battery goes thermal, you could pro'ly cook your wieners on it.