PDIB's Making MODs!

[turbocad6]

hey pete, just a heads up, the best cleanest way I've found for cutting aluminum plate is with a jig saw blade, cuts like butter with a fine tooth blade, 24-26 tpi I think... table saw would have to have a very fine blade, like a finishing cut type blade but the table saw spins too fast to work very well, a jig saw is perfect though

 

[glassgal]

I also flipped the spring upside down and squished it to make better contact with the bottom. Then I nipped 3mm off the end like FB did. It is definitely firing better, but to get full contact, I am squishing the button and the bottom together at the same time. This could just be spring stiffness tho, and it will wear in better over time.

The old button made contact easier because the spring is softer and more bouncy. ALL the problems are in the button area... maybe the toggle idea should still be explored?

 

[turbocad6]

this was my method of eliminating contact issues in the mod itself, remove the top cap and screw the center pin in with a flat blade screw driver(clockwise) until it just starts to move the lower cap off it's seat, once it moves a hair stop, then turn the upper nylon screw out ~ 1/4-1/2 a turn out(counter clockwise) and pop the top cap back on, the idea is to get it so it almost sits completely flat but not quite, again just a hair away from completely flat... play with the nylon screw to get it to that point, once you have the top and bottom cap sitting just a hair away from flush then you don't have to worry about these 2 contacts and can troubleshoot everything else from the button to the 510 seating... when you get it working fine you can then back off slightly on the center screw and the nylon to get it fully flush again but I found that when adjusted to truly flat the connections there can get a bit iffy at times, I'd rather have them a hair away from flat but have solid stable connections at these 2 points

gg if you are having trouble cleaning the inside of the button landing area a tiny disc of sandpaper glued to a new flat pencil eraser head can help, you could even snap the pencil so it's only 2-3 inches long on the eraser end and then chuck that in a drill. the reason I keep saying a tiny flat disc on a pencil eraser is it will give you the flattest sanding contact in that area and just as important it will not be abrasive at all on it's sides, so you don't have to worry about gouging the side walls of this hole...

 

[glassgal]

Thanks Turbo. I think I got the hole cleaned out to shiny (but scratched up). It's firing much better now... I swapped products, the Ox-Gard was too light, I filled the entire button space with Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up grease. Now it's firing fairly consistently

 

[Filthy-Beast]

All of my problems even when I thought it was the button were center contact issues. Now to test your button to rule that out.

Calibrate the meter: Turn the dial on your meter to ohms the omega symbol on the lower left put it on the 10. With the probs not touching the needle should be to left and pointing at a sideways figure 8, infinity symbol. Touch the probs together the needle should go to the right and point at zero. if not at zero adjust the screw so the needle points to zero.

To test the button: first test it at rest, touch one lead to the screw the other to shiny spot anywhere on the aluminum plate. Meter should read zero or very close to it. lift a prob and the meter should go to the left again.

Now the tricky part that might take three hands. While holding the probs on the silver screw and the aluminum plate. press the button in and wiggle it around. It should always read near zero, if it jumps to the left you have found a spot that is losing connection or you lifted one of the probs. I could not get mine to jump to the left.

The way the button works is: Current flows up the screw to the plate in top of the button. Current transfer to the spring from touching the screw and the plate. The spring transfers current to the aluminum plate. When you press sideways on the button the screws contacts the aluminum plate transferring the current and bypassing the spring. electricity takes the easiest path.

 

[super_X_drifter]

I don't always vape OliveR's. But when I do, I vape off ones with framing squares. Stay addicted my friends.
~ the most interesting vaper in the world.

 

[Borescoped]

actually, while reading the framing square saga, i was thinking my copper plate mod has many of the same issues as folks were describing. i just haven't done any adjusting yet. holding off til next week's eye surgery so i can see what i'm doing

Ugh... Eye surgery... Had PRK done by the military a little over a year ago... Great to not wear glasses... But I sure do tear thru the refresh drops! Hope it goes well, what ya havin done? Up close work (like adjustments) might be difficult after your procedure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turbocad6]

All of my problems even when I thought it was the button were center contact issues.

that' why I highly recommend adjusting it so both caps are just a hair short of completely flat, rules out the most common contact issues here

 

[ScandaLeX]

Check this killer new drip tip my boy muzichead sent me.

It's nice and short and the bore is wide like the could chaser.

This is the my favorite tip

What's the name of the drip tip?

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

 

[super_X_drifter]

What's the name of the drip tip?

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

I don't even know the name. I'll get it from muzichead and pass it along

 

[glassgal]

Ok... maybe I'm reading your directions wrong.

I set the meter to the X10, which is the only 10 on the lower left.
- there's a 10 in the center left, and a 10 in the center right. However, when touching the probes together, nothing happens at all. The X10 is the only setting where touching the probes together actually sends the needle off to the far right (off the metering scale).

Without pushing the button... setting the Positive (red) probe on the center 510 connector pin, and the Negative (black) probe on the aluminum stripe does nothing. The needle doesn't move.

As soon as the button is pushed, the needle screams to the far right off the scale. It's NOT supposed to do that?

 

[glassgal]

I don't always vape OliveR's. But when I do, I vape off ones with framing squares. Stay addicted my friends.
~ the most interesting vaper in the world.

There's no coating at all on your bottom... not even a hair. The film on mine is an actual hazy thick film that's stuck on there like plating.

 

[Rossum]

I don't always vape OliveR's. But when I do, I vape off ones with framing squares. Stay addicted my friends.

I have to say, I've always found the framing square markings intriguing, and if my second DiBi is made from a color of wood that in the black/gray/blue range that would look better with a silver ground plate than a copper one, I would be all over Peter to use a piece of framing square, not some generic aluminum sheeting. The only acceptable substitute would be some actual silver, but I haven't found any of that in the requisite thickness.

BTW, copper shines up real good with a bit of Simichrome polish:

I'm not sure I actually like this better than the patina it had on it when I received it, but that patina was getting kinda splotchy in places, and patina is like a beard; if you shave it off, it grows back.

 

[ScandaLeX]

I also flipped the spring upside down and squished it to make better contact with the bottom. Then I nipped 3mm off the end like FB did. It is definitely firing better, but to get full contact, I am squishing the button and the bottom together at the same time. This could just be spring stiffness tho, and it will wear in better over time.

The old button made contact easier because the spring is softer and more bouncy. ALL the problems are in the button area... maybe the toggle idea should still be explored?

After my lil fix last night I've been using the Dibi exclusively but although it's firing it's still tough; not a soft touch like the REO.

My pinky finger rest under the bottom cap & after a few minutes hurts.

I'm hoping the spring loosens up to make firing not feel like work.

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

 

[MamaTried]

Ugh... Eye surgery... Had PRK done by the military a little over a year ago... Great to not wear glasses... But I sure do tear thru the refresh drops! Hope it goes well, what ya havin done? Up close work (like adjustments) might be difficult after your procedure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

old man cataracts. left eye is currently useless. once that's done, they'll do the "good" eye. in theory, after it's all done, i'll only need glasses for close-up stuff, instead of the tri-focals i'ved used for 20 years. we'll see (i hope)

 

[Rossum]

After my lil fix last night I've been using the Dibi exclusively

It's funny how they quickly become people's favorite mods despite some quirks, isn't it?

My pinky finger rest under the bottom cap & after a few minutes hurts.

Right, IMO, pinky under it is the only way.

I'm hoping the spring loosens up to make firing not feel like work.

Either that or your hand will adapt. Mine did.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

If your reading at the 510 your trying to read voltage power. the meter dial should be over on the right, the v with the line and dash. To read a coil resistance or do the continuity check of the button would be on the lower left. And you are correct X10.

 

[MasterofNone]

After my lil fix last night I've been using the Dibi exclusively but although it's firing it's still tough; not a soft touch like the REO.

My pinky finger rest under the bottom cap & after a few minutes hurts.

I'm hoping the spring loosens up to make firing not feel like work.

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

Scandal you might really want to consider screwing the bottom cap in... Unless your batteries are so tight you can't access from top? My bottom cap has been screwed in since I got her back...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Snip snip. Take just little off the spring and it will be easier to press

 

[pdib]

As far as greasing your mod up while trying to diagnose it, I'm not sure that's a good idea, Glass. As far as using 2,3,4 different brands and types of grease, I know that's a bad idea. I used to use Ox-Guard instead of Noalox (cause that's what I found). After switching to Noalox, I realized that the Ox-Guard SUCKS for our purposes. I think it actually decreased conductivity. Most of these greases AREN'T formulated to conduct electricity. Please wipe that stuff off and don't add factor Y when you're testing for factor X. General rule about diagnosing any system is to remove as many eccentric factors as possible.

Turbocad, thanks for the great suggestion. Get the mod firing and tested with those adjustable contacts a little proud, then set the depths to your liking. (I've suggested that before to people; just didn't get there yet in this context)

And Glass, please do one thing to completion at a time. Meaning, sanding the bottom of the button hole for a while (but not fully), and then starting to fiddle with something else . . .. now you've got two "?" factors and can't diagnose either.