PDIB's Making MODs!

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timk

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Oh and if you want to renew/clean brass, I found the sanitizer I use in brewing beer does magic in about 5 min. Does wonders on copper too. Star San acid sanitizer. Probably the same as peroxide and vinegar but I haven't compared and a pint of this stuff lasts a long time. 1oz per 5 gallons. Had some mixed up after sanitizing a carboy so I tossed in some brass parts and I was really impressed. Anyway, if you have that laying around give it a try.
 

timk

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Remind me to give your beer a miss!

T

By far the most popular and effective sanitizer in beer brewing. Iodine is another but it stains and has longer contact time. And it's not recommended to use on soft metals for the exact reason it makes em shiny. And no I didn't use it after contaminating it with brass.
 
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timk

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Uhh... there's no brass in the dibi button...

The fixed contacts are brass screws. They need cleaning eventually.

And that dielectric grease is not conductive, it's an insulator and protectant. I use it for automotive electrical connectors that are exposed to harsh environments.
 
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glassgal

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Cleaning it?? pfft.

Naturally the eraser i bought for that was a trapezoid 2" x 1/2" x 1" - and it's totally useless. Unless i chop it up and HRH has banned me from the kitchen remember!

Noalox is messy on brass, so nope.

i do use it on the internals of the firing button, just because i have to get rid of it.

And to all those "oh well the later runs will have far fewer problems than those greedy/fast/ peeps that got the first runs" :laugh:

T

Huh? I would happily have been one of the greedy people in the first run:p.
 

pdib

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The fixed contacts are brass screws. They need cleaning eventually.

And that dielectric grease is not conductive, it's an insulator and protectant. I use it for automotive electrical connectors that are exposed to harsh environments.

that's what I suspected; but I haven't read up on that exact brand. Don't use that cr_p, Glass! Might as well use peanut butter, or something else that gets in the way of contacting parts . . .. contacting each other.
 

Filthy-Beast

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The fixed contacts are brass screws. They need cleaning eventually.

And that dielectric grease is not conductive, it's an insulator and protectant. I use it for automotive electrical connectors that are exposed to harsh environments.
Me to on my jeeps, On the mods I use a small drop of deoxit on my contacts. DeoxIT® Shield S-Series
 

timk

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Me to on my jeeps, On the mods I use a small drop of deoxit on my contacts. DeoxIT® Shield S-Series

Went with the deoxit gold when I got my Poldiac because it is for plated materials. Haven't used it or anything yet on my OliveR. Gonna give it a couple weeks to see how nothing does. :)
 

glassgal

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that's what I suspected; but I haven't read up on that exact brand. Don't use that cr_p, Glass! Might as well use peanut butter, or something else that gets in the way of contacting parts . . .. contacting each other.

Well, before I used it it fired intermittently. Afterwards it fires 100%. It's just a hard squish to fire.

And no, I wouldn't use peanut butter, there'd be ants on my mod in the morning... I don't THINK they eat grease...
 

turbocad6

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I like my giant squish of Permatex Dielectric grease ok so far...

dielectric grease is fine, even noloax is non conductive. they don't need to be. the contact area will displace the film thickness to nothing where it contacts when the button is pressed. the whole point of the grease is to keep the whole surface from oxidizing, even where it doesn't contact. I use noloax mainly right after I sand a connection point, wipe a dab on and then wipe most of it back off. I leave enough so the surface is wetted with it but not much more, any more don't do anything but make a mess. what happens is microscopically all the sanding scratches make valleys and grooves, these valleys never make contact, only the high points do but the valleys inside the scratches will oxidize and the oxidation spreads to the high points which do make contact. the grease fills these microscopic valleys and grooves and really slows down how fast the oxidation comes back. high polished silver or gold plated don't really need this but if it's a little wet with it it don't hurt. I usually sand m battery ends with 1,200 wetted with a light oil or wd40, then wipe dry with a paper towel, dab a bit of noloax, wipe most of it back off then throw it back into rotation. you just want to wet the contact with it, not put a blob. the blob will just get mostly displaced and make a mess


That's one of the reasons I love the simplicity of the 10A car fuse. I don't feel like I just destroyed gold......

:lol::lol:
 

IMEDICx90

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So Mundy thanks for the wire! I just set it up in my dibi....

ygydydyb.jpg


nybunasu.jpg


Holy .... this thing blows some clouds at .2 ohms........


But on the downside, it's REAAAAALLLLYYYY hard to work with. So I might just chalk it up to not worth the hassle, but I'll enjoy the coil for now. :)
 

pdib

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So Mundy thanks for the wire! I just set it up in my dibi....

ygydydyb.jpg


nybunasu.jpg


Holy .... this thing blows some clouds at .2 ohms........


But on the downside, it's REAAAAALLLLYYYY hard to work with. So I might just chalk it up to not worth the hassle, but I'll enjoy the coil for now. :)



what is that?


a spoke off the wheel of Mundy's VW Bug?
 

2pak2zero

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Nah it's that Rene 41 wire that we all got. It's ridiculously thick and I doubt I could fit a dual coil in here without wrapping the posts for the second one. Lol!

Does it heat up quick? I made a pretty fat 6 wrap last night. But by the time I wrestled it in to the posts, it looked like an abused slinky. Never even tried to fire it.
 
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