wow. and all this time, i thought of you as a 12 year old psychotic dancing cat lover with excellent taste in wood...
PDIB's Making MODs!
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wow. and all this time, i thought of you as a 12 year old psychotic dancing cat lover with excellent taste in wood...
ok, I'll ask. There's a lot of small atomizers out there. Of comparable size are cyclone, RM2, igo-s; do those get hot for you too? Is this one different in that it gets hotter? Why? Because there's more mass to the base? I'll just have to try it myself and see. Not much point in discussing it hypothetically when I can see for myself in a few days. But then the topic keeps coming up . . . . .. 
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ok, I'll ask. There's a lot of small atomizers out there. Of comparable size are cyclone, RM2, igo-s; do those get hot for you too? Is this one different in that it gets hotter? Why? Because there's more mass to the base? I'll just have to try it myself and see. Not much point in discussing it hypothetically when I can see for myself in a few days. But then the topic keeps coming up . . . . ..
The Cyclone does get hotter than the RM2 for me. (Almost) identical coils in them and equal air hole sizes. I find I can chain vape on an RM2 longer than on a Cyclone.
@ValHeli, where's Cowboy Grill?
More on that later I will prepare a proper answer. But in summary no kanthal wire lights up at the same time and evenly in any shape or form. We were all mislead by our own experiments well because noone tried to wrap a long non contact coil on a nail a dry fire it before.
There is no small short and big short and kinda short. If a coil is shorted it is shorted. If all your wraps are lighting up then there is no short. In a microcoil we are not shorting anything after the first pulse or 2. You want a shorted microcoil? Try what I did with a ceramic tip tweezer. Just keep holding the microcoil with the tweezer when firing the first few times. Without the tweezers one fire is enough to ensure isolation. With tweezers and forcing the wraps staying together you will see what a shorted microcoil looks like lol.
Did I say a summary lol. Sorry for OT.
(I hope disagreeing with Val doesn't put me on the bottom of the nuppin list
).More on that later I will prepare a proper answer. But in summary no kanthal wire lights up at the same time and evenly in any shape or form. We were all mislead by our own experiments well because noone tried to wrap a long non contact coil on a nail a dry fire it before.
There is no small short and big short and kinda short. If a coil is shorted it is shorted. If all your wraps are lighting up then there is no short. In a microcoil we are not shorting anything after the first pulse or 2. You want a shorted microcoil? Try what I did with a ceramic tip tweezer. Just keep holding the microcoil with the tweezer when firing the first few times. Without the tweezers one fire is enough to ensure isolation. With tweezers and forcing the wraps staying together you will see what a shorted microcoil looks like lol.
Did I say a summary lol. Sorry for OT.
(I hope disagreeing with Val doesn't put me on the bottom of the nuppin list
you are officially out of the nuppin list if not the very last
kidding of course. As much as I disagree that vaping is compared to smoking, I also tend to disagree with how the word short is used in vaping. A short is simply a point in circuit with the least resistance. It could either be intentional or unintentional. In an very simple circuit like in our case, the point of least resistance - the short, is the coil. this is why the coil (properly wound) will heat from the middle out bec. that's the point where we're shorting it out. I mean, other than a switch, It's really no different than putting a wire between the positive and negative. We are after the exact same effect of heating up the wire but controlling that heat with a switch; hence an intentional short.
Tweezers or no tweezers that coil is shorting. I don't have ceramic tweezer but with regular tweezers, squeezing the coils increases the resistance and makes the legs the point of least resistance - another intentional short or unintentional if you're as "smart" as I am
speaking of intentional shorts, I have done a lot of "smart" things like hard wiring an 18650 to see if it explodes and simply connecting a straight strand of kanthal between the posts. In a straight wire configuration, the short happens quickly in the middle and the wire lights up instantaneously. In a properly wound coil configuration it heats up much slower than a straight wire with the same resistance.
these are just my opinion based on my own smart experimentations
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ok, I'll ask. There's a lot of small atomizers out there. Of comparable size are cyclone, RM2, igo-s; do those get hot for you too? Is this one different in that it gets hotter? Why? Because there's more mass to the base? I'll just have to try it myself and see. Not much point in discussing it hypothetically when I can see for myself in a few days. But then the topic keeps coming up . . . . ..
Using cyclone, hornets, and igo-s with a 1.2mm air hole and .8Ω coil taking long draw with finger on top cap while taking a draw.....the cap does not heat up significantly. Dual coils in one of these tiny attys might be a different story but I don't do duals or tri or quad (how much vapor does one need to (or can) cram into the lungs). Big chambers might offer huge airy=flavorless clouds but sacrifice flavor and add weight and just look clunky...imo. Just rambling...just opinions....so feel free to ignore
More on that later I will prepare a proper answer. But in summary no kanthal wire lights up at the same time and evenly in any shape or form. We were all mislead by our own experiments well because noone tried to wrap a long non contact coil on a nail a dry fire it before.
There is no small short and big short and kinda short. If a coil is shorted it is shorted. If all your wraps are lighting up then there is no short. In a microcoil we are not shorting anything after the first pulse or 2. You want a shorted microcoil? Try what I did with a ceramic tip tweezer. Just keep holding the microcoil with the tweezer when firing the first few times. Without the tweezers one fire is enough to ensure isolation. With tweezers and forcing the wraps staying together you will see what a shorted microcoil looks like lol.
Did I say a summary lol. Sorry for OT.
(I hope disagreeing with Val doesn't put me on the bottom of the nuppin list
you are officially out of the nuppin list if not the very last
kidding of course. As much as I disagree that vaping is compared to smoking, I also tend to disagree with how the word short is used in vaping. A short is simply a point in circuit with the least resistance. It could either be intentional or unintentional. In an very simple circuit like in our case, the point of least resistance - the short, is the coil. this is why the coil (properly wound) will heat from the middle out bec. that's the point where we're shorting it out. I mean, other than a switch, It's really no different than putting a wire between the positive and negative. We are after the exact same effect of heating up the wire but controlling that heat with a switch; hence an intentional short.
Tweezers or no tweezers that coil is shorting. I don't have ceramic tweezer but with regular tweezers, squeezing the coils increases the resistance and makes the legs the point of least resistance - another intentional short or unintentional if you're as "smart" as I am
speaking of intentional shorts, I have done a lot of "smart" things like hard wiring an 18650 to see if it explodes and simply connecting a straight strand of kanthal between the posts. In a straight wire configuration, the short happens quickly in the middle and the wire lights up instantaneously. In a properly wound coil configuration it heats up much slower than a straight wire with the same resistance.
these are just my opinion based on my own smart experimentations
I feel we are saying the same things but using different words and sometimes opposite?
All good, moving on ...
ok, I'll ask. There's a lot of small atomizers out there. Of comparable size are cyclone, RM2, igo-s; do those get hot for you too? Is this one different in that it gets hotter? Why? Because there's more mass to the base? I'll just have to try it myself and see. Not much point in discussing it hypothetically when I can see for myself in a few days. But then the topic keeps coming up . . . . ..
If I really start puffin up a weather system my Reactor get's super hot... like melting orings hot.
well at least uncomfortable to touch. Normal use with .5ohm dual coils will get it fairly warm but not blazing hot. That one is my biggest offender with heat. Cyclone get's hot too but the regular cap is thin so cools fast. Reactor cools slow due to the mass of the cap I think. The base has more mass than my other little guys too but it is still my favorite atty despite its temper. Hornet is about the same as the Cyclone to me but takes a little longer to cool down. Hornet cap is a little thicker in the cap than the Cyclone. RM2 never really gets hot to me, just warm and seems to cool fast. I do believe reducing mass in the base and top cap wherever possible would provide faster cooling but would also heat up faster. Suppose there is a balance of mass vs cooling ability and/or insulation.
You should just build the coil chamber out of ceramics
In all seriousness though, I'm super excited to see this atty come to life and hit the market. Designed by bottom feeders for bottom feeders
I'm gonna go kick it with my plecostomus now 
Agreed, one draw doesn't do much. But if I'm sitting there puffing away on nothing but one dibi with a Cylone on it, that Cyclone's cap can get uncomfortably warm after a while. When that happens, I will often pause and reflect on whether I might be vaping too much and either take a break, or pick up a different device and let that Cyclone cool off for a bit.
.. Ok ok. Based on popular demand. I'll see what I can do about the brass (copper) sleeve.
also due to the rather small form factor of "Nuppin", a delrin top cap insulator doesn't provide any benefit with the delrin drip tip. Even with an insulator, Nuppin heats up fairly quick rendering the insulator useless.
.. so I guess I'll have a tiiight drip tip made specially for Meg.. So how tight do you want it?
I'll get my own, I like the glass ones I have, tight enough draw and tall enough the vape cools nicely...
So is this going to be an issue for those of us who live in the desert? Will our Dibis dry up and crack?
Can we prevent this by giving them luxurious massages with oils and lotions?
My walnut shrank weirdly over winter as it is so dry here but it went right back to normal once we opened the windows. Walnut and Maple will be taking showers with me in the winter...not actually IN the shower but in the bathroom with me.
Agreed, one draw doesn't do much. But if I'm sitting there puffing away on nothing but one dibi with a Cylone on it, that Cyclone's cap can get uncomfortably warm after a while. When that happens, I will often pause and reflect on whether I might be vaping too much and either take a break, or pick up a different device and let that Cyclone cool off for a bit.
That's how I do it; heat up the PT, switch to Dibi and heat that up and switch to Reo...etc.
So, many folks like the qualities provided by a small chamber atomizer. More intensity of flavor being the prominent desirable quality. Large chamber atomizers are great too; but have a different set of positive qualities. To rival the flavor of a small chamber, one needs to pack the big one out with a lot of wire and wick. Many BFers like to juice the wick on demand, for max. freshness of flavor; keeping the wicking to a minimum and squonking frequently. Bottom feeding a 22mm atty that's stuffed with wicking is convenient; but doesn't maximize the best the system has to offer. One can't design a small chamber atty, and then size it up to 22mm and expect the same performance.
A short (circuit), by definition, is where the current takes a shorter path than is laid out in the system. It's a shortcut. Nothing else. The coil is the section of the circuit with the greatest resistance. Ideally, there would be no resistance anywhere but at the coil.
A short (circuit), by definition, is where the current takes a shorter path than is laid out in the system. It's a shortcut. Nothing else. The coil is the section of the circuit with the greatest resistance. Ideally, there would be no resistance anywhere but at the coil.
Personally for bottom fed attys I like them small, nice fresh juice flavor on demand....That is why I like BF mods...
I'm really late commenting on this, but here are my thoughts. The drip tip is a non issue for me as I would probably take it off and put it away and put one on it that I thought was pretty, lol. Actually what would be much more important would be that the size of the hole for the tip was standard so that high end tips would fit it, unlike many of the clone attys that have a smaller opening. At the moment I am using Gallery Tips big bore tips, see avi, and really like the draw on them as well as the looks.
I would also very much like the copper (brass) sleeve just because I love copper.
I would also very much like the copper (brass) sleeve just because I love copper.
this is funny beeeee-cause . . . .. . drip tips are interchangeable, cheap, ubiquitous, and multiply like rabbits. Not a big issue, I should think. If one is included, great. If not, I think I can find one. Try finding an aftermarket copper (brass) AFC sleeve that fits this atty . . . .. . . . .
g'head . . .. . I'm waiting . . . .. . .
Right. So the priority in our thinking right now should be the one item that we either speak up about, and make a solid decision about now, or never. If I had to make a judgement call, I'd say 30-40% of people would really like a copper (brass) sleeve, and 15% would forego the atty because it doesn't match. 60% the peeps with OliveRdibi mods will have copper (generous est.). So, 1/4 (25%) of 60 is 15. Let's make 15 copper (brass) sleeves for every 100 atties, unless the cost exceeds $20. Make sense?
sorry, just thinking out loud.
You know it's funny the days I got my Reos and signed up on this list for a Dibi I started saving money because I stopped mod shopping. Yes these are pricey but buying a new mod all the time and the constant search for a newer and better atty adds up more quickly.
I am now quite satisfied with my Reos and the Dibi that will come in the future, and have stopped spending on anything but juice. The Provari, CV1 Virtus, and LE Red Copper Stingray certainly weren't cheap mods, and for the moment at least all of those except the ProVari are simply collector's items for me as I am not using them at all.
I am now quite satisfied with my Reos and the Dibi that will come in the future, and have stopped spending on anything but juice. The Provari, CV1 Virtus, and LE Red Copper Stingray certainly weren't cheap mods, and for the moment at least all of those except the ProVari are simply collector's items for me as I am not using them at all.
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