PDIB's Making MODs!

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SkinyFatMan

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Here's my album of wood blocks... like a dum dum, I uploaded the pix many megapixels each, so they may take a while to load...

http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/hystark/slideshow/Stabilized Wood

How do I request the big blue one, and is it appropriately sized for a dibi (assuming Val doesn't want it of course)?
yryhu5yg.jpg

e7u7e4ap.jpg
 
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element77

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Being in the minority is not a problem for me, I must say I really like the new shape for the reasons of integrity of the mod.
When that plywood gets around to it giver the extra strength squonker.
I also dig it for defining this BF's looks, certainly is polarizing, and I ain't gettin a dibi to have it mistaken for a camry.
I like the evolution, always something around the corner:)
T-Cad that zebra wood is a true beauty, outstanding soldier, outstanding!!!
 

Megan Kogijiki Ratchford

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this week is actually all about squonk holes. This run, I've been re-examining many of the processes in fabrication. I guess I've gotten comfortable enough with the process that I have the headspace for a little questioning and some small improvements in how I do things. Also, apparently, it's time to look at squonk holes. (i've no control over this stuff, it just happens) So, way back when, when initially designing this fling-flangin' mod, I tried a number of shapes for squonk holes. I settled on the simple one I've been doing because it was the most appealing to me. For me, form is wed with function, and any digression from that (unnecessary fanciness) is . . . . . .. "too many notes". However, I now have an excuse. In the interest of strengthening the squonk hole, I've spent a little time revisiting one of my earlier ideas (now justified by functional necessity). The hole is set ~ 1mm higher, the cut-away at bottom is 12mm deep instead of 15 (the top is now 16mm deep for "effect", and to keep the vertical centerpoint set back as far as possible), and the radius of the bottom corner is ~1/2" vs 1/4. So, there's less unsupported lip, thicker, and a fatter radius to support it.

Functionally, it's about the same: plenty of squeeze room on that bottle. There would be some chance that one would actually make contact with the wood when doing a deep (low fluids) squonk; however, I don't think it would impede "full throw".

So, the question is: how does it appeal, aesthetically?

I had thought in terms of getting some feedback, and then either changing to this style or not. However, as I was wrapping up the mock-up, I realized I can just offer it as an option.

Peter I love it!! :thumb:
 

glassgal

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Wowee! How much does that cost to get a block dyed GG? Those look amazing!

With K&G, you send them the wood cut to the sizes you want already, and it takes between 1 and 2 months to get it back. They said it was 2-3 weeks per color, then it has to dry between each color, then 2-3 weeks for stabilizing, and they are shipped back sticky wet.

They weigh it AFTER they are done with the dying and stabilizing (which adds a lot of weight while sticky wet, which is how they come back, so it came out to about 3/4 a lb average per dibi sized block). There's a fairly thick layer of crust and acrylic all around. I didn't try sanding til they dried a bit, but even then, they gummed up the sandpaper, so you go through a lot of sandpaper and a lot of time.

I paid $17 per lb, but I had over 5 lbs with these. If you only send them one block, it will be more because you don't get the over 5 lb discount.

The black ones are really neat! You see the pix water wet, but I think they are a bit darker when oil wet. I don't know what CA finish will do in terms of color... but oil wet, the black ones look like a very fine grained ebony with chatoyant belting and streaks of brown. The chatoyancy parts are dark grey, so it's got the effect of black silk. I'm enjoying them a lot, it's like playing with blocks! LOL!
 

turbocad6

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I'm pretty confident it's ironwood -- which about as close to indestructible as wood gets -- a characteristic that Turbo needs. :D

yeah desert ironwood... it's crazy strong, I drop it and it just bounces :laugh: and yeah I dropped it a few times already :blush: it's strong but not brittle at all
 

Borescoped

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I'm pretty confident it's ironwood -- which about as close to indestructible as wood gets -- a characteristic that Turbo needs. :D

I thought that ironwood, even though it's a very hard/tough wood, is susceptible to cracking/breaking easier because it is hard/tough and has very little to no give?
 

turbocad6

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I thought that ironwood, even though it's a very hard/tough wood, is susceptible to cracking/breaking easier because it is hard/tough and has very little to no give?

I don't know why but it just don't crack. I also have some snakewood which is about as hard but that stuff cracks when you drop it... ask me how I know :)
 
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