not to overly picky, or contrary; but I am of the opinion that moving the squonk hole up any substantial amount would look like socks and garters.
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*Insert Lumberjack song here*



not to overly picky, or contrary; but I am of the opinion that moving the squonk hole up any substantial amount would look like socks and garters.
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Oh man! I like that a lot. Regardless of it strengthening the bottom it LOOKS awesome. I would want that even if it did nothing.this week is actually all about squonk holes. This run, I've been re-examining many of the processes in fabrication. I guess I've gotten comfortable enough with the process that I have the headspace for a little questioning and some small improvements in how I do things. Also, apparently, it's time to look at squonk holes. (i've no control over this stuff, it just happens) So, way back when, when initially designing this fling-flangin' mod, I tried a number of shapes for squonk holes. I settled on the simple one I've been doing because it was the most appealing to me. For me, form is wed with function, and any digression from that (unnecessary fanciness) is . . . . . .. "too many notes". However, I now have an excuse. In the interest of strengthening the squonk hole, I've spent a little time revisiting one of my earlier ideas (now justified by functional necessity). The hole is set ~ 1mm higher, the cut-away at bottom is 12mm deep instead of 15 (the top is now 16mm deep for "effect", and to keep the vertical centerpoint set back as far as possible), and the radius of the bottom corner is ~1/2" vs 1/4. So, there's less unsupported lip, thicker, and a fatter radius to support it.
Functionally, it's about the same: plenty of squeeze room on that bottle. There would be some chance that one would actually make contact with the wood when doing a deep (low fluids) squonk; however, I don't think it would impede "full throw".
So, the question is: how does it appeal, aesthetically?
I had thought in terms of getting some feedback, and then either changing to this style or not. However, as I was wrapping up the mock-up, I realized I can just offer it as an option.
(pic heavy for accuracy in representation)
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Sometimes these peeks at the inner workings of the mind are a bit scary. I've always heard that the brains of very creative people are wired differently than the general population.not to overly picky, or contrary; but I am of the opinion that moving the squonk hole up any substantial amount would look like socks and garters.
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I switched pics. Now we have 3. bonus.![]()
Honestly, the "cleanest" vape i've ever had was with glass pipettes as wick. Even my poo didn't gunk up on it. I just got sick of having to squonk every 1-2 hits.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Lol ya something tells me it's a horrible idea lol but I keep thinking about it...![]()
Well there's your problem!I used it all day yesterday. I used it with 28ga kanthal at .8Ω at about 20 watts
Well there's your problem!
Don't you know you're supposed to use rayon with 24 gauge titanium, like this?
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Seriously, I like rayon. But that doesn't mean everyone else has to.
Unfortunately I don't think titanium wire is gonna be viable for me unless/until it's available in a thinner gauge. I believe it would have a lot of potential them. But at 24 gauge, you have to use way too much of it to get anything resembling a reasonable resistance and that makes it real slow. No, there are no shorts in that coil -- it does glow nice and evenly -- after a while.
Maybe I should try a larger diameter? That coil was wound on a 5/64" bit.
He lied. I measured out a foot and made a single loop. It's under one ohm. My atty box shows it around 0.75.wow, yeah, I've been suspecting that mr. "gallium" misinformed me as to the resistance. I was just so gung-ho and hop-to-it, that I just took his word for it. I mean, he didn't say "oh, about 5Ω per foot". He said "5.27 ohms/foot".
0.2 ohms might be OK -- in a large multi-coil atty.maybe I' start vaping around .2Ω.