PDIB's Making MODs!
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I did a rough sketch of my idea for the center post. the square block would be easy enough, the square hole in the atty base would be the whole challenge to this design, depending on the minimum diameter mill it would have rounded corners, still could work
That's a pretty brilliant design ... you'd just have to make sure the positive was fully insulated from the walls, and the negative always touched the walls. Doh. I didn't see where the gasket went before... that's GREAT
.Wait... just realized this is adapted from the kayfun gasket design, so blue gasket is silicone, and the insert is metal ... wouldn't it be more efficient if you were to make the entire gasket silicone to begin with, and the positive contact screw goes right to the positive post, screwing thru the silicone gasket?
All you need is that positive wire to contact the positive center post (via the screw). If you didn't have the excess metal block, you would still be able to make that contact via the screw, and there'd be less risk of short.
It would be less expensive to make, and actually, in lieu of silicone, make it out of hard high temp Delrin?
And.. to prevent stripping of the delrin hole, use an anchor bolt type of screw hole in the delrin, then you're still screwing in and out of metal that's in direct contact with the center post, but it's still anchored in the insulated delrin to protect from short. The screw being a bit recessed so the cap can't contact the positive.
Does that make sense?
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Hey Dibby...
My previously mentioned good news....
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
My previously mentioned good news....
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
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Like this:
with one of these in the delrin made out of copper w/ copper or silver screws?:
with one of these in the delrin made out of copper w/ copper or silver screws?:
Like this:
with one of these in the delrin made out of copper w/ copper or silver screws?:
That looks like a really good design. Who's the non-modder again?
That looks like a really good design. Who's the non-modder again?
It's Turbo's design, I was just thinking that the Kayfun's metal box weakness is that it likes to roll around once that silicone it sits on weakens. This doesn't take that many rebuilds either, maybe from the heat, so it's more fiddling down the road.
Everyone has delrin pot handled pots and pans, they can get pretty hot, but it's pretty stiff and can hold a screw too (or you couldn't use it as a pot handle), but probably not good material for repeatedly screwing into, so you'd need some type of anchor, and that would provide a good opportunity to up the conductivity too
. Just seems like it would be a better material, and easier to shape than metal. Not sure where you'd get an itty bitty copper anchor sleeve tho...
That's a pretty brilliant design ... you'd just have to make sure the positive was fully insulated from the walls, and the negative always touched the walls. Doh. I didn't see where the gasket went before... that's GREAT
Wait... just realized this is adapted from the Kayfun gasket design, so blue gasket is silicone, and the insert is metal ... wouldn't it be more efficient if you were to make the entire gasket silicone to begin with, and the positive contact screw goes right to the positive post, screwing thru the silicone gasket?
All you need is that positive wire to contact the positive center post (via the screw). If you didn't have the excess metal block, you would still be able to make that contact via the screw, and there'd be less risk of short.
It would be less expensive to make, and actually, in lieu of silicone, make it out of hard high temp Delrin?
And.. to prevent stripping of the delrin hole, use an anchor bolt type of screw hole in the delrin, then you're still screwing in and out of metal that's in direct contact with the center post, but it's still anchored in the insulated delrin to protect from short. The screw being a bit recessed so the cap can't contact the positive.
Does that make sense?
I think I get what you're saying, pretty much the block being plastic instead of metal. I did a metal block because personally I'd rather have the positive on one side rather than in the center, to me that would be the most symetrical for singles and duals, center makes more sense for quads for sure but I'm picturing a killer dual setup on a flat deck. The first thing I'd try on that atty I drew is a long extension from the driptip, one that drops down to between the 2 coils and have it draw air from the center, about at the level of the air inlet holes, this would suck air straight across the coils and directly into the driptip. The flavor may actually change dependant on how deep the driptip is inserted, you'd be varying where you actually sucking the vapor from in relation to the coils, I'd have to draw another pic to see what I mean
no atty has had this ability up until now because none have a clean open center. That design would also probably be a lot better in 22mm diameter though... This has given me an idea to modify an existing 22 mm atty to postless flat deck....hmmmm now I'm going to wind up chopping up one of my atties to try this
Hope you have some less expensive ones to chop up... if not, let me know and I'll send you 2 (one for you and one for me ).
Could you sneak into your wife's pot cabinet and find an ugly old pot you can cut a small part of the handle from for the insert?
).Could you sneak into your wife's pot cabinet and find an ugly old pot you can cut a small part of the handle from for the insert?
Back to the titanium coil thing, somebody found this:
It took me a moment to realize that the columns are vertically justified by resistance. So that 24 gauge TI is just about equivalent to 19 gauge Kanthal.
We ARE gonna need thinner TI. Now if we could get 30 gauge TI (roughly equivalent to 25 gauge Kanthal), I'd expect it to heat up FAST.
It took me a moment to realize that the columns are vertically justified by resistance. So that 24 gauge TI is just about equivalent to 19 gauge Kanthal.
We ARE gonna need thinner TI. Now if we could get 30 gauge TI (roughly equivalent to 25 gauge Kanthal), I'd expect it to heat up FAST.
It took me a moment to realize that the columns are vertically justified by resistance. So that 24 gauge TI is just about equivalent to 19 gauge Kanthal.
We ARE gonna need thinner TI. Now if we could get 30 gauge TI (roughly equivalent to 25 gauge Kanthal), I'd expect it to heat up FAST.
Um... how would you bend the TI wires? Isn't it super hard and brittle? My understanding is that you work with Ti metal by heating it super hot to bend it... making a coil would be HARD to do? Have you tried it yet?
Well, here's the ehow directions for bending thin Ti wire (need at least a propane torch):
http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_6704176_bend-titanium-wire.html
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Nope, it was soft enough to make coils from no problem. Way easier to work with than, say R41.
Yes indeed. And so did Peter. We both made coils without difficulty, but we both found 24 gauge to have unsuitably low resistance. And the chart I posted above confirms those findings.
I now have some 30 gauge on order. I hope to have it on Wednesday.
And just for the record, I'm not interested in titanium because I'm worried about the safety of Kanthal. I just think there might be a lot to be said for low-mass coils. We'll see, I guess.
Back to the titanium coil thing, somebody found this:
It took me a moment to realize that the columns are vertically justified by resistance. So that 24 gauge TI is just about equivalent to 19 gauge Kanthal.
We ARE gonna need thinner TI. Now if we could get 30 gauge TI (roughly equivalent to 25 gauge Kanthal), I'd expect it to heat up FAST.
Isn't their claim that it's supposed to be safer wire? I just wonder about it's practical use. Is it super hot? I know you reach a point that heat and power take the enjoyment out of the vape.
Remember the r41 welding sticks some of us got?
That's dual 9 wraps. Came in at .16 ohms. I can barely take short pulls. It does create big vapor, but may cause a lip blister. Named that build the "Herpes Duplex". By default, I guess Mundy's single coil would be the "Herpes Simplex". Hmm?
I'm not looking for a super-hot vape; I don't wanna be at some absurdly low resistance, nor do I want to use a ridiculously over-sized coil to get the resistance reasonable. That's why the 24 gauge won't work. But based on what I saw firing the over-sized 24 gauge coil, I think 30 gauge has a lot of potential.
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I didn't notice yesterday that that thing was 14 wraps at .38
Could definately see 30ga having some promising potential.
Did you vape that 24ga?
So this atty will have no screws & posts to mess with!!
The DIBI AND NEW ATOMIZER IS OFFICIALLY SUPPORTED BY THE
I'm sorry to say there are screws for the neg. wire captures, and most likely will be a post and screw in the center as well (judging by the feedback I've seen).
No, I didn't vape it. 0.38 is too far out of my comfort zone; it didn't really fit the atty (woulda shorted on the cap), and it was very slow to glow (no surprise considering the amount of metal there).
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Don't nobody hold me to this; but here's what I'm thinking right now. Atties would be ordered with a post or a short post (as originally pictured), and then I would fabricate replacement posts for those few who want to try a no-capture, open, flush, center "not-post". I could replace before shipping, or send it along. BTW, I've been vaping nothing but the Nuppin' all day today on our little day trip to a memorial service. Obviously, the coil didn't budge and it fired consistently and reliably the whole time. I can't speak to what would happen if a coil were left in there for a number of weeks, as I'm about 24 hrs into this whole thing. I would have to think, tho, that those who would want to play with an experimental (the no post version) atty configuration would be wanting to swap coils rather frequently (to try new ideas). When things settled down for said experimental type, they could always swap back to the original short post with capture.
After my brief discuss with 4nic8 yesterday eve., I got into the spirit to be a little less experimental, and focus more on vape quality. I've been splitting the time today between ~1.4mm single air hole and wide open dual air lung hits. Both are very satisfying with a ~.6-.7Ω Mundy Coil. This eve, I got down to business and built the true Mundy that I'm accustomed to (3/4 wrap, ~.5Ω, KGD). I set the air hole to mimic my RM2 set up (~1.4mm single). I put the RM2 on the REO (fuse and pin modded), gave it a few vapes with a citrusey juice @ ~33mg; then pulled that exact juice bottle and battery and popped them into the OliveRdibi & Nuppin'. Here's what I found.
Throat hit was =
Sharp acidic flavors were slightly stronger in the RM2
Middle flavors were stronger in the Nuppin', with a fullness and roundness of flavor that wasn't present in my RM2 setup.
Vapor production . .. . . I'll let you know as soon as I can open the RM2 to wide open duals @ ~ 1.5 x 3 mm slots . .. . . then I'll be able to compare. (at comparable settings, it's about the same)
The vape can be warm, even hot in the Nuppin'. Not the atty getting hot, that hasn't happened to me at all. The vapor can come into your mouth hotter than with the RM2. On these occasions, I pull the cap up ~1.5mm (where, I've mentioned, it stays indefinitely) and this increases the chamber volume just enough to get the mellower, cooler vape I might want at the moment. I would only do this when I didn't want to adjust the air hole size, for whatever reason. As I play with it more and more, I'm finding that the ability to adjust the vape on the fly is a real pleasure. And, where I realize I had one go-to setup on the RM2, I'm finding that I have at least three air/cap configurations that hit sweet but have very different qualities on the Nuppin'.
The only reason I compare to the RM2, is because that's what I know, and that's what I know because that's what I've most enjoyed til now.
After my brief discuss with 4nic8 yesterday eve., I got into the spirit to be a little less experimental, and focus more on vape quality. I've been splitting the time today between ~1.4mm single air hole and wide open dual air lung hits. Both are very satisfying with a ~.6-.7Ω Mundy Coil. This eve, I got down to business and built the true Mundy that I'm accustomed to (3/4 wrap, ~.5Ω, KGD). I set the air hole to mimic my RM2 set up (~1.4mm single). I put the RM2 on the REO (fuse and pin modded), gave it a few vapes with a citrusey juice @ ~33mg; then pulled that exact juice bottle and battery and popped them into the OliveRdibi & Nuppin'. Here's what I found.
Throat hit was =
Sharp acidic flavors were slightly stronger in the RM2
Middle flavors were stronger in the Nuppin', with a fullness and roundness of flavor that wasn't present in my RM2 setup.
Vapor production . .. . . I'll let you know as soon as I can open the RM2 to wide open duals @ ~ 1.5 x 3 mm slots . .. . . then I'll be able to compare. (at comparable settings, it's about the same)
The vape can be warm, even hot in the Nuppin'. Not the atty getting hot, that hasn't happened to me at all. The vapor can come into your mouth hotter than with the RM2. On these occasions, I pull the cap up ~1.5mm (where, I've mentioned, it stays indefinitely) and this increases the chamber volume just enough to get the mellower, cooler vape I might want at the moment. I would only do this when I didn't want to adjust the air hole size, for whatever reason. As I play with it more and more, I'm finding that the ability to adjust the vape on the fly is a real pleasure. And, where I realize I had one go-to setup on the RM2, I'm finding that I have at least three air/cap configurations that hit sweet but have very different qualities on the Nuppin'.
The only reason I compare to the RM2, is because that's what I know, and that's what I know because that's what I've most enjoyed til now.
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Oh. Never seen Titanium wire, but bet it's a lot more durable than regular wire
. I wonder why jewelry people always say it's so hard to bend then? Maybe because it's harder than silver and gold wire, which bends like putty.
My wife's earlobes are sensitive to almost all metals. She hasn't worn earings for decades. Now that my daughter is gaining interest in such girlie things, my wife gave titanium a shot. Works great, no irritation. So, now I'm the proud hubby, and owner of 15.5" of 24g Ti wire . . .. . dedicated to her lobes.
Haven't heard back from F-Beast on the squonk hole shape for this run. However, I don't have to wring my brain tissue too hard to imagine he'd want the classic style.
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