PICTORIAL: *The URBA* ~A new RTA by Petar K
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Well, I have it up and running, but not without problems.
My builds all kept reading shorted until I put an o ring on the 510 pin. I took it apart and reassembled it four times to no avail until I put that o ring on.
The Urba has a very long 510 and won't screw down flush on most of my mods. Also my sx mini s class just kept saying it was shorted even after I got that sorted.
I also realized as I was filling it that I had no idea if I got it full with the metal tank on. A syringe with a needle so you can measure it would have been a better plan.
My builds all kept reading shorted until I put an o ring on the 510 pin. I took it apart and reassembled it four times to no avail until I put that o ring on.
The Urba has a very long 510 and won't screw down flush on most of my mods. Also my sx mini s class just kept saying it was shorted even after I got that sorted.
I also realized as I was filling it that I had no idea if I got it full with the metal tank on. A syringe with a needle so you can measure it would have been a better plan.
You have me scared.
Well, I definitely had issues, and they are certainly coloring my view of it at the moment
So I should sleep on it before I decide how I feel about it.If you have issues with shorts or wandering resistances, try the o ring. I don't even know why that made a difference. As far as I could see, the insulator kept it from touching anything ??
@roxynoodle
1. While attaching the coil leg on the pos pole - you're prolly wrapping the wire over the pole itself rather than the screw atop.
2. That O-ring that you put isolated your erred pos leg of wire from the deck wall.
3. You fill it to the brim and stop when the juice oozes out back. It wouldn't leak since those reservoir wicks are there.
4. In any case, there's also the PMMA tank option for folks who are in dire straits with all metal tanks (like me).
5. I'm currently doing an 'easier wicking' tactic. I'll demonstrate it with a video when my retail unit arrives.
@skin_e1
It is actually a very nice RTA ~ easy to rebuild and re-wick. You needn't be scared.
1. While attaching the coil leg on the pos pole - you're prolly wrapping the wire over the pole itself rather than the screw atop.
2. That O-ring that you put isolated your erred pos leg of wire from the deck wall.
3. You fill it to the brim and stop when the juice oozes out back. It wouldn't leak since those reservoir wicks are there.
4. In any case, there's also the PMMA tank option for folks who are in dire straits with all metal tanks (like me).
5. I'm currently doing an 'easier wicking' tactic. I'll demonstrate it with a video when my retail unit arrives.
@skin_e1
It is actually a very nice RTA ~ easy to rebuild and re-wick. You needn't be scared.
I'll check it again, but I checked all those coils pretty thoroughly. I'm almost certain its seated correctly.
If you haven't forgotten to place the Alu-Ceramic Isolator under the pos pole plate ~ there's not way it could short out. Pls use your DMM probes between the poles and check it out ~ it's likely they wouldn't show a short.
Ha, now I'll've to go back to my pic and see what # was that
Lemme comeback to you.Ps: Yep, #13. That one keeps the pos pole isolated. And the only way the build could short out is if the coil leg at the pos touches the deck's wall. Which can happen if the wire is wrapped around the pos pole outers - rather than it's screw. B'coz the tolerances here are quite minimal. Thus, this is one aspect of the URBA which we need to be careful about.
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I don't know, Q. I'm at a loss. The coil leads look exactly right And since it has the expected resistance and is working correctly I don't want to tear it apart again, lol! #13 was in there where its supposed to be.
I also can't get it to screw fully into any 510 of any mod other than this rather ridiculous Stingray X clone I bought from FT because it was red and black (my fav colors). So I'll be curious if anyone else has this issue. I tried it out on 30 mods. I don't generally want to put a high end authentic on that mod, but I may put a mech build on it and do it.
And since it has the expected resistance and is working correctly I don't want to tear it apart again, lol! #13 was in there where its supposed to be.I also can't get it to screw fully into any 510 of any mod other than this rather ridiculous Stingray X clone I bought from FT because it was red and black (my fav colors). So I'll be curious if anyone else has this issue. I tried it out on 30 mods. I don't generally want to put a high end authentic on that mod, but I may put a mech build on it and do it.
Someone I know had to have a new 510 base sent because it locked up in an MCR top cap, poor guyI don't know, Q. I'm at a loss. The coil leads look exactly right
I also can't get it to screw fully into any 510 of any mod other than this rather ridiculous Stingray X clone I bought from FT because it was red and black (my fav colors). So I'll be curious if anyone else has this issue. I tried it out on 30 mods. I don't generally want to put a high end authentic on that mod, but I may put a mech build on it and do it.
Petar was awesome about it though, so shouldn't worry if there is something that needs taking care of
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Someone I know had to have a new 510 base sent because it locked up in an MCR top cap, poor guy
Petar was awesome about it though, so shouldn't worry if there is something that needs taking care of
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
That's good to know. Yes, I may need a new 510 base. I measured it against other attys, and its not longer. It has to be the threads.
I'm at a loss too. Mine sit flush atop all my mods (and works). 4-1/2 doz mods, all authentic.
Where has the pic gone of the breakdown of parts? Mine arrived today, I'm not going to have time to build it till Thursday, but wanted to know what I was doing in advance.Ha, now I'll've to go back to my pic and see what # was that
Ps: Yep, #13. That one keeps the pos pole isolated. And the only way the build could short out is if the coil leg at the pos touches the deck's wall. Which can happen if the wire is wrapped around the pos pole outers - rather than it's screw. B'coz the tolerances here are quite minimal. Thus, this is one aspect of the URBA which we need to be careful about.
Thanks.
PS - Roxy, mine sits flush on my Hana One mod, it does seem tight but it goes all the way in.
Qorax, nevermind I didn't know it was in the op.
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Btw folks, I just remembered URBA's 510 has a unique threading. It's made that way so that when it sits atop even on a wonky threaded mod it doesn't wobble. You just need to apply a little extra force to thread it in (in some mods), for the first time, and it makes its way nice & proper thereafter. And yes, nothing adverse happens with either the URBA's or the mod's 510 threads.
I zinxed it eh!
Pls give it the 10 mins freezer treatment.
Yikes, you didn't use much force either, huh? Did it go in fine, maybe only slightly rough, and just refuse to back out?
Hopefully this right here works!!!
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