I wouldn't use pliers. I have a set of extra sticky lawn gloves that work with about anything. You can get those at a local Ace hardware store and it don't damage you mod or atomizer. Another type of glove is surgial gloves which dems86 uses to loosen stuff. Since it is locked on your mod it may or may not work though.
PICTORIAL: *The URBA* ~A new RTA by Petar K
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I hate to say it but I'm not "Cleaning up" an original I paid over $100 for. Thanks for the heads up. I'm not going to accept mine like I did with the Tilemahos and getting my money back! Espeically with the sketchy email response, not giving out tracking numbers unless emailed and it's already late as it is. It's already a month late and to send it back and wait a huge amount of time....since it's been sitting in customs for almost a week. It's not worth it IMHO : ) Tell me how it vapes. Because it's going back to Croatia sight unseen.Remember, if it's that bad, you don't have to keep it just take a picture of your item returned or take a copy of your tracking and fax it to your credit card company and you will win your dispute easily
You don't have to go thru PayPal. If you already opened the package and it's defective. Take pictures and mail it back with receipt of tracking. Goto your Credit cards bank or fax the info in. If you don't have a fax machine, go to staples and fax it in for $1 a page
@roxynoodle No wonder you buy clones/chinese orignals. This has turned out to be a huge waste of time and a dissappointement to boot. At least with a clone your not that much money in and the manufacturer answer their emails.
@qorax I don't need a video on threads. The only thing I had to ever put in a freezer is a clone. That's why I dislike clones because of the same issues people are having with their Urber originals. Now there are two people with problems from a very high end atomizer. It's not your fault in anyway, shape or form. It's the fault of the manufacturer. So it's with him my credit card agency will get my money back
I agree. This is the first time I've had an atty that won't screw into mods (well, one crappy clone, but not 31 others). Its also the third high end authentic in a row I've bought with unacceptable machining issues
The Calix I got cleaned up pretty well, but it took several hours. Not acceptable at all, but I did it. The Ataman II had me angry enough ( even more the responses I got from the modder, and the fact he ripped me off on accessories I paid for) that I also just bought a clone of it to compare them, and the clone is nicer. Burned three times in a row, I think I may be done with the high end tanks At least Focusecig replaced a janky $20 tank, and gave me a dripper to boot for my troubles.Petar hasn't answered my FB message. But, he never answered me on the tracking number either. Qorax is the one who had to make the effort for me. In fact, Qorax is the one who helped me get it ordered in the first place. I do appreciate your time and effort, Q, for all of that.
I didn't use a cc. Unfortunately, a PP dispute could get both his and my account shut down
Oh, and beware of it loosening back up on the 510 since its only screwed halfway in. I got the mother of all dry hits last night because it did that and the resistance jumped very high due to the poor connection. Best to check it before you vape
[emoji119] found the pliers. Wrapped one of those wide veggie rubber bands around the base of the atty to protect it from scratching. Came right off. But in all seriousness, if I can't use this thing on the dicodes it probably won't see much use. [emoji22]
Lol as demonstrated by the incident with the pliers I'm not, apparently, very good at finding things. Can you link to the video?
Damn. Now you've all got me worried.
You can't give up on high end tanks, roxy. Think of the quality of your Erl! Or were you thinking more the small run authentics from individual modders?
You can't give up on high end tanks, roxy. Think of the quality of your Erl! Or were you thinking more the small run authentics from individual modders?
I'm wary of trying anything from a modder I have no previous experience with. I have several high end tanks that are wonderful. But, my last 3, yikes
Honestly I would be more upset about this bit of weirdness except that my origenny, which I previously thought hated me, all of a sudden has started vaping beautifully.I'm wary of trying anything from a modder I have no previous experience with. I have several high end tanks that are wonderful. But, my last 3, yikes
Like I said, I'm waiting for my retail unit. Then I should be able to really understand what issues you guys are having. I think something changed between my Beta and the Retail ones. It should be here next week.
Oh yes, the guy was unwell for a while. Prolly that also added to his / our woes.
Oh yes, the guy was unwell for a while. Prolly that also added to his / our woes.
Right, let's at least see if he will fix it for us. That should always be the first thing one asks. I certainly understand illness affecting things. I was at the Cleveland Clinic all day yesterday, and will be back twice next month for tests, and to see an endocrinologist And my wrist probably needs surgery, but I won't be able to do it with a horse to care for.
And my wrist probably needs surgery, but I won't be able to do it with a horse to care for.So, I wanted to make sure mine wasn't faulty also. I threw a quick coil in for testing, it is ~7 wraps of 28g KA1 with a 2mm ID (I have been used to 3mm with me Lemo tanks, but that obviously won't fit, I guess 2.5mm is perfect) to ensure it wasn't shorting on the deck anywhere. Came out to 1.09ohms on my DNA40 mod, and 1.1 on an iStick 30 I have laying around. Test fired a few times, steady readings, no shorting.
Roxy - I was wondering something, in the bag of spare parts is a piece that looks like it could be placed over the center pin inside the tank, initially that's where I put mine - instant short, crazy readings. I pulled the coil, removed that piece (which I now have no clue what it is for, does anyone?), put the pos pin back in, put the same coil in, and voila no short 1.09ohm steady.
Just putting that here, since I may not have been the only one thinking that should get installed. Looks like it belongs there, fits perfectly, but massively f's things up. Maybe it needs o-rings? Again, I don't have a clue what it is for, I just assumed it was important. Guess not.
I will have time to put a proper build in here tomorrow and I will surely provide feedback here when I do.
PS - I have now put this tank on and off my Hana One and an iStick30 several times with no issues of sticking, or not sitting flush.
Roxy - I was wondering something, in the bag of spare parts is a piece that looks like it could be placed over the center pin inside the tank, initially that's where I put mine - instant short, crazy readings. I pulled the coil, removed that piece (which I now have no clue what it is for, does anyone?), put the pos pin back in, put the same coil in, and voila no short 1.09ohm steady.
Just putting that here, since I may not have been the only one thinking that should get installed. Looks like it belongs there, fits perfectly, but massively f's things up. Maybe it needs o-rings? Again, I don't have a clue what it is for, I just assumed it was important. Guess not.
I will have time to put a proper build in here tomorrow and I will surely provide feedback here when I do.
PS - I have now put this tank on and off my Hana One and an iStick30 several times with no issues of sticking, or not sitting flush.
That thing in the spares bag? I wasn't sure what that was for either.
I suspect my shorting issues have to do with my 510. I can only screw halfway into anything I can use to check resistance so I'm not getting a good connection. And the adjustable pin was wobbling around before I put the o ring on. So I suspect if my 510 had been properly machined I wouldn't have had any issues with any of those builds.
I suspect my shorting issues have to do with my 510. I can only screw halfway into anything I can use to check resistance so I'm not getting a good connection. And the adjustable pin was wobbling around before I put the o ring on. So I suspect if my 510 had been properly machined I wouldn't have had any issues with any of those builds.
Yeah, your experience sounds nothing like mine, so I'd wager you have a faulty unit, sorry... wish I could help. Just know there is hope, as mine has none of the issues you are describing, hopefully you can get it sorted out. I, personally, can't wait to get a build in here and fire it up.
If I can get a new 510 base, I believe everything would be solved. I didn't realize at first it wasn't screwing all the way in. So I built it, plopped it on my ohmmeter and it read short. I adjusted the pin, same thing. Adjusted again and it read 1.49 ohm and I was expecting 1-1.1 ohm. Hmm. Then it read short again. So i kept disassembling it, reassembling and building it. That's when I put it on the sx mini to get a reading and discovered it wouldn't screw all the way in. I would sometimes get a reading from a mod and sometimes they would read as a short.
So I'm fairly certain its the 510 threads that have been the root of the problem all the way along. I just hope Petar will replace my base because otherwise its going to be an expensive paperweight. Constantly checking its making a connection sucks, and it looks stupid, too, sticking way up off the mod.
I don't have a retail unit, yet, so my opinion might be faulty. Nonetheless, we had requested @petar k to offer another hollow tube for using with the PMMA tank (especially the thicker one). I'd believe you are referring to that piece in your spares baggy.
Btw, the wick channel is just over 3 mm (at least in my unit) - so a 3 mm coil fits perfectly. If you've noticed - I've used a 3 mm coil in my review video.
Yeah, I recalled you used 3 mm in the video, just didn't fit for me, the 2.5mm did. I am still not sure how that larger tube works, I assume it needs to be insulated somehow with some of the orings included. I did some measurements of the pmma section today, and am going to see if OCD can get a glass tube to replace it with. For those interested it is 22mm outer diameter, ~20mm in length, with a wall thickness of .8mm. Measured with digital calipers.
I'm going to remove my comments until I check out my unit. Hopefully it turns out to be a winner as well
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