Thank you for the clarification David. I can sleep now. No wait i have to go to work.
Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!
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Thank you for the clarification David. I can sleep now. No wait i have to go to work.
thanks com76, now I see why someone else was upset about only a couple shipping this week...lol 15277 thru 15288 would have been about 1 or 2 units since many of the orders in between would have been batteries or what not....
jasl90, after further thought I have to respectively disagree
I'll take one more crack at it then we can agree to disagree.
Fault Scenario #1: Any intermittent or hard short that occurs here will not manifest itself in the manner that KiloWatts has described ...
On two occasions, a sudden shock has traveled from the battery and burnt the living hell out of my fingers. It feels like a super concentrated bolt of heat - hot enough to leave a mark.
What will happen is that the coil will fire and your vape quality will suffer depending on how good the short is. In the case of a hard short (as in permanent), you would be in a continuous on state and the ELA would heat up just as if you held the button down continuously for a period of time.
Fault Scenario #2: If an intermittent or hard short occurs here, it would give you a detectable shock and heat the ELA up quick (exactly what KiloWatts has described). This is because the ELA tube resistance is about 15 milliohms end to end and there is no 1.1 ohm coil in the circuit now. The (+) battery terminal would essentially be shorted to the (-) battery terminal. The current through the case would be EXTREME to say the least. You also have to understand that this shorted high current condition in Fault Scenario #2 can only occur if the button is pressed. If the button is not pressed, your (+) and (-) battery terminals remain isolated from each other. You could solder the (+) terminal of the battery to the case and not know you had a problem until you pressed the button.
Its human nature to think I press the button, I get shocked and burn my hand ... it must be the button! Logic dictates otherwise, the button is switching a bad atty into the circuit turning the ELA tube into a shorting bar.
Theres no way for a Precise Simplicity, PrecisePlus or Precise ELA to short at the button. It is a negative ground design. All the button does is complete the circuit by grounding it. If its getting hot, there is a short in the atomizer 99% of the time, the other 1% would be a positive side battery short or positive top post short. Usually, they get hot at the button as the button is the last path of travel to the negative side of the battery, or they can also heat up where the electricity encounters more resistance.
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jasl90, after further thought I have to respectively disagree
View attachment 238882
Fault Scenario #1: Any intermittent or hard short that occurs here will not manifest itself in the manner that KiloWatts has described ...
On two occasions, a sudden shock has traveled from the battery and burnt the living hell out of my fingers. It feels like a super concentrated bolt of heat - hot enough to leave a mark.
What will happen is that the coil will fire and your vape quality will suffer depending on how good the “short” is. In the case of a hard short (as in permanent), you would be in a continuous “on” state and the ELA would heat up just as if you held the button down continuously for a period of time.
Fault Scenario #2: If an intermittent or hard short occurs here, it would give you a detectable shock and heat the ELA up quick (exactly what KiloWatts has described). This is because the ELA tube resistance is about 15 milliohms end to end and there is no 1.1 ohm coil in the circuit now. The (+) battery terminal would essentially be shorted to the (-) battery terminal. The current through the case would be EXTREME to say the least. You also have to understand that this shorted “high current” condition in Fault Scenario #2 can only occur if the button is pressed. If the button is not pressed, your (+) and (-) battery terminals remain isolated from each other. You could solder the (+) terminal of the battery to the case and not know you had a problem until you pressed the button.
It’s human nature to think “I press the button, I get shocked and burn my hand” ... it must be the button! Logic dictates otherwise, the button is switching a bad atty into the circuit turning the ELA tube into a shorting bar.
You forgot a spot...
For those who don't believe me... I shot a little 5 second video... You have to watch close, but you'll see an arc at around second 3.
Precise Plus Button Arcing - YouTube
As for your other fault scenarions...
1) This would simply bypasses the switch. It would cause the the PV to fire continuously until either the atty was removed or the battery is removed. This can happen if the battery's shrink wrap is damaged. Aside from the prolonged firing, it wouldn't cause any excessive heat. It's the same thing that happens if you set an unlocked PV on end. In any case, this short still has to pass current through the coil which acts as a load... and if it gets hot enough, a fuse.
2) This scenario is far more serious. This results in a dead short. This bypasses the coil/load and hard shorts the battery as soon as the button is pressed. When this happens the entire PV gets scalding hot in less than a second and the PV will remain hot for several minutes afterwards (Yes, I did this by mistake when I hybridized my Natural).
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I extracted a frame from the video that shows the spark..
Wonder what is causing that??
Wonder what is causing that??
I extracted a frame from the video that shows the spark..
Wonder what is causing that??
Me wiggling the button back and forth... It took about 5 tries to catch it. Basically it happens when the button has contact with the battery and no contact (just VERY close) with the collar. Basically the current REALLY wants to take that path and at a very short distance is able to make the leap.
Edit... Nice work BTW. I wouldn't have had the patients to go frame by frame on that.
Quote Originally Posted by rojo
Any of you guys waiting on a Kayfun Lite for your ELA's might find the Russian 91% pre-order worth checking out. It's a clone, but it's not a clone. This clone embellishment actually seems to be an improvement on the original, as it adds adjustable air draw. See this thread and Todd's review for more info. If you order, use coupon code vaporjoe6off. Unfortunately, since it's a pre-order, you probably won't receive your order for a couple of months at least.
In looking at Todd's video, I think I saw a bottom fill hole next to the adjustable draw? If so, then it looks like the Russian 91% is a repackaged Kayfun 3.1 shrunk down to KF Lite size.
Any of you guys waiting on a Kayfun Lite for your ELA's might find the Russian 91% pre-order worth checking out. It's a clone, but it's not a clone. This clone embellishment actually seems to be an improvement on the original, as it adds adjustable air draw. See this thread and Todd's review for more info. If you order, use coupon code vaporjoe6off. Unfortunately, since it's a pre-order, you probably won't receive your order for a couple of months at least.
Yeah, but it ain't made in Germany! I figure that's worth an adjustable air draw
In looking at Todd's video, I think I saw a bottom fill hole next to the adjustable draw? If so, then it looks like the Russian 91% is a repackaged Kayfun 3.1 shrunk down to KF Lite size.
Nah, that's the air hole. The air intake is in the side of the base. It's not a 510 connector air draw like GG atties.
But yeah, aside from not having a fill valve, it is essentially a Kayfun 3.1 in the form factor of a Kayfun Lite. I don't consider it an exact clone -- rather, a design fork. It's no longer an exact copy of something, but is instead an improvement on someone else's design.
But yeah, aside from not having a fill valve, it is essentially a Kayfun 3.1 in the form factor of a Kayfun Lite. I don't consider it an exact clone -- rather, a design fork. It's no longer an exact copy of something, but is instead an improvement on someone else's design.
I'd say it a complete copy (read: ripoff)
From their website
They have made it to the exact specifications of the Kayfun Lite...
Honestly, I could go either way on the issue. I ordered two KayFun Lites simply because I want the airiest draw possible and couldn't care less about the adjustable airflow.
If, on the other hand, I did want the airflow adjustment, I would have gone for the Russian 91%, simply because it's the only one that has that feature in that form factor. Yes... 1/2" in height makes a difference to me.
If, on the other hand, I did want the airflow adjustment, I would have gone for the Russian 91%, simply because it's the only one that has that feature in that form factor. Yes... 1/2" in height makes a difference to me.
Huh. raq, if you can show me how to adjust the air draw on a Kayfun Lite then your argument will sway me. Till then, it's not an exact copy.
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They copied it to exact specs and drilled an air hole... You can put lipstick on a pig but... Well you get the point.
Hey if people want to buy clones then who am I to argue. I won't spend a cent them because all they are doing is stealing someone's work, but that's just me..
I agree, industrial espionage counterfeit crapola even if it is well made
I put 'em in the same bucket as china, plus it ain't made in Germany!
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