Precise ELA Telescoping Mod by Super-T!

[raqball]

I agree, industrial espionage counterfeit crapola even if it is well made I put 'em in the same bucket as china, plus it ain't made in Germany!

Ya, they don't even try to hide the fact and clearly state it's a copy and that all parts from the kayfun Lite fit it..

I will give them credit for being honest crooks I guess.. LOL

 

[anavidfan]

just found out super-t has a simplicity 18650 now.. looks sweet

I saw that also, and thought why, tempt me with such a device, but then I saw the diameter and said , whew......lts too slim for my Odys.

I think I have all the precise items I need, If there would be something that would make me not even think twice , it would be a Precise Plus 18350 length but 23mm wide.

 

[raqball]

I saw that also, and thought why, tempt me with such a device, but then I saw the diameter and said , whew......lts too slim for my Odys.

I think I have all the precise items I need, If there would be something that would make me not even think twice , it would be a Precise Plus 18350 length but 23mm wide.

I was the same way...

22mm is the minimal diameter I can go so all my toppers match up..

I am not a big fan of 18650's as to me at least they are too long.. I mainly use and love 18350 & 18490 mods / modes with 18490 being my preferred length..

 

[Magic Dragon Puff]

Ya, they don't even try to hide the fact and clearly state it's a copy and that all parts from the Kayfun Lite fit it..

I will give them credit for being honest crooks I guess.. LOL

yeah, like "I'm ripping off your tech and going to UNDERSELL YOU, nothing personal now, it's just business".
Maybe SvoëMesto's estranged brother is behind it, you just never know?
For you goofy foreigners who don't get crazy american humor, that was a joke!

 

[anavidfan]

I have one 18650 MOd, and thats fine for those long trips where I dont want to take anything as heavy as my ELA in 18650, and I know that I would go thru a 18350 battery and have to replace a battery mid drive.

 

[Tanrichguy]

I'm waiting on a Roller since I don't have a 22mm mod and my ELA is month away. I saw the simplicity 18650 and said yes, then saw the 18mm and said thank you for not busting my wallet this month. Not a big fan of the 18650 form factor either.

Love my 14500 though...

Dear Vape Deity of your choice, PUHLEEZE deliver my ELA in a timely manner!

 

[raqball]

I'm waiting on a Roller since I don't have a 22mm mod and my ELA is month away. I saw the simplicity 18650 and said yes, then saw the 18mm and said thank you for not busting my wallet this month. Not a big fan of the 18650 form factor either.

Love my 14500 though...

Dear Vape Deity of your choice, PUHLEEZE deliver my ELA in a timely manner!

I'm diggin my Roller and mainly got it to hold me over until my ELA arrives..

 

[yuujin]

if there was a precise simplicity 18350, i would buy one in a heart beat.

 

[ragnarokstar]

Good news on batch 2. I refuse to get excited until something in the 16xxxs is shipped out.

 

[BlackBag]

Nice drawing and explanation. What did you make the drawing in?

jasl90, after further thought I have to respectively disagree I'll take one more crack at it then we can agree to disagree.

View attachment 238882

Fault Scenario #1: Any intermittent or hard short that occurs here will not manifest itself in the manner that KiloWatts has described ...

On two occasions, a sudden shock has traveled from the battery and burnt the living hell out of my fingers. It feels like a super concentrated bolt of heat - hot enough to leave a mark.

What will happen is that the coil will fire and your vape quality will suffer depending on how good the “short” is. In the case of a hard short (as in permanent), you would be in a continuous “on” state and the ELA would heat up just as if you held the button down continuously for a period of time.

Fault Scenario #2: If an intermittent or hard short occurs here, it would give you a detectable shock and heat the ELA up quick (exactly what KiloWatts has described). This is because the ELA tube resistance is about 15 milliohms end to end and there is no 1.1 ohm coil in the circuit now. The (+) battery terminal would essentially be shorted to the (-) battery terminal. The current through the case would be EXTREME to say the least. You also have to understand that this shorted “high current” condition in Fault Scenario #2 can only occur if the button is pressed. If the button is not pressed, your (+) and (-) battery terminals remain isolated from each other. You could solder the (+) terminal of the battery to the case and not know you had a problem until you pressed the button.

It’s human nature to think “I press the button, I get shocked and burn my hand” ... it must be the button! Logic dictates otherwise, the button is switching a bad atty into the circuit turning the ELA tube into a shorting bar.

 

[Tanrichguy]

I'm diggin my Roller and mainly got it to hold me over until my ELA arrives..

Same here dude. When I got my ELA pre-order in I went a little crazy ordering attys for it, not realizing it might be 2014 until it arrives...

 

[forcedfuel50]

Me wiggling the button back and forth... It took about 5 tries to catch it. Basically it happens when the button has contact with the battery and no contact (just VERY close) with the collar. Basically the current REALLY wants to take that path and at a very short distance is able to make the leap.

Edit... Nice work BTW. I wouldn't have had the patients to go frame by frame on that.

But just to clarify, that arc you see is not a short of the Precise button or design itself, the arc is electricity jumping the gap as it tries to find its way to the negative of the battery and complete the circuit. This is the path of the electricity and how most mechanicals work, by metal to metal contact to complete the circuit and the electricity will even jump the gap if it is small enough as seen in the video. What happens in a atomizer short is tremendous current is released and thas why it often heats up at the last point before the battery negative, the button.

 

[jasl90]

But just to clarify, that arc you see is not a short of the Precise button or design itself, the arc is electricity jumping the gap as it tries to find its way to the negative of the battery and complete the circuit. This is the path of the electricity and how most mechanicals work, by metal to metal contact to complete the circuit and the electricity will even jump the gap if it is small enough as seen in the video. What happens in a atomizer short is tremendous current is released and thas why it often heats up at the last point before the battery negative, the button.

David - My apologies. I didn't intend to imply that there was anything wrong with the button design. The fact is that there will be an arc any time any mechanical switch opens or closes.

The fact is that the P+ button design is probably my favorite button out of everything I've used. It's simple, easily adjustable, easy to clean and fires every time.

I only posted that video to show that it CAN happen... I had to put some actual effort into making it happen... That should not be taken as an issue with the P+ button.

As David points out, this can happen with any mechanical button.

 

[eggylisk]

Hey guys, could you how pics of you guys's button? I still havent been able to keep my ela firing consistently after cleaning it, although its not "squeaky" clean. Ive taken a toothbrush with soap and water to it but it wont remove the stuff on it still and im afraid of accidentally removing the plating

imgur: the simple image sharer

I still have to feel around the button to find a spot it likes and everything is tightened down

 

[Freckle]

Hey guys, could you how pics of you guys's button? I still havent been able to keep my ela firing consistently after cleaning it, although its not "squeaky" clean. Ive taken a toothbrush with soap and water to it but it wont remove the stuff on it still and im afraid of accidentally removing the plating

I still have to feel around the button to find a spot it likes and everything is tightened down

Wow, it already looks as your plating is wearing off. That is an absolute shame! You aren't ever ever ever suppose to sand the rhodium plated contacts.

 

[eggylisk]

I never sanded it and i used a soft toothbrush and it looked like that prior to. Now that i think about it, Could it be from the battery making contact to it and the switch turning during contact? I looked at my batteries and it had black rings on it the same shape as the contact. This really sucks ): barely had it for 2 months

 

[rojo]

Hmmm. I was one of the recipients of a brass post. So I moved my year and a half old P+ rhodium post to my ELA while I wait for the ELA's plated post. It's not smooth either. I suspect the extreme close-up probably makes the texture of your post appear rougher than it actually is.

And really, even if your rhodium plating actually is eroding, it shouldn't cause misfires. It's still just as conductive as pure unplated brass. I wonder if you've got carbon build up around the button itself? Do you have any dark smudges on the main barrel of the bottom button?

 

[jasl90]

I don't see anything wrong with that contact... There are places that appear to have been smoothed down due to battery contact but I don't see any loss of the rhodium plating.

When you talk about cleaning the button, what part of the button are you talking about? Your pic only shows the contact. The part that actually requires the cleaning is the button itself and the ring/collar/housing thing that holds it in place.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Hard to tell from the Picture, but I don't see anything on it, looks normal for the most part to me. What brand of battery are you using? Be sure to clean the bottom of the battery as well. Also, you can clean on the inside where the button passes through the bottom cap ( I take a bit of 400 grit sandpaper and wrap it around a small sharpie and spin it inside the shield the cap). Clean the button too. Make sure the bottom post isn't finger tight too, tighten with a screwdriver.

Also, beware of plated batteries that just have like a copper plating over plastic, once that thin plating wears through, no more contact as you are hitting plastic (I see it on some brands of protected batteries that use a plated plastic protection circuit on the bottom).

 

[eggylisk]

Oh yea, i cleaned those as well. Whole button assembly and tube of the ela itself. Will post pics in a little bit

Im using mnke batteries and cleaned the bottom of those as well and it doesnt seem to have any plating on it. I do seem to get more consistent firing with the bottom accent ring off though. Dunno how that would make a difference