preparing for the upcoming vape "apocalypse"
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question i looked at those bottles and they are clear. i thought we wanted amber color bottles, a dark bottle that will allow light in? or does it not matter when stored in a dark freezer?
Now THAT'S prepping.
WOW you have enough to last a couple lifetimes lol. imagine what that will be worth when the taxes go through the roof, heck imagine what this product will be worth PERIOD. maybe i should buy their entire stock and when the poo hits the fan stand out on the street corner with a trench-coat full of 30 ML bottles of 100 base. i got your base, $20 for a 30 ML bottle.
And even if it does go bad that doesn't kick you out of the game. DIY and vape 0mg and wear a patch or chew the gum if you still need nic. It will still give you a way to stay off cigarettes and avoid whatever taxed to death, sub-par devices that they will allow you to purchase in the future.
I've read posts where some folks prefer clear glass so they can see the liquid when dispensing it. Tinfoil wrap would keep out all light. I use amber and cobalt blue bottles, and position a bright flashlight so it lights up the bottle for me when I dispense from them.
Color doesn't matter to me because I wrap all of mine, even the amber and blue in aluminum foil. No light is gonna get through to my nic. I then wrap each bottle in bubble wrap and then put them through my vacuum sealer. I feel very comfortable with my method of protecting my insurance.
I will post this again in case you missed it the first time How I Store My Nicotine
If you are using clear bottles the nic needs to be in a box just as an added layer of protection - we are talking about loooooooonnnnnnnggggg term storage...
If anything gets through all of that I would not want to run into it in a dark alley - it would be dangerous for my health...
If anything gets through all of that I would not want to run into it in a dark alley - it would be dangerous for my health...
everyone talks about buying a provari, well i had a early P1 they are made well but they were $200 per mod. the dripbox 160 i have is $60 so i could buy 3 of them for the price of a provari. i have also seen the specs on the provari, for a 60W capable radius they are $220. at that price i could buy 4 dripbox 160 mods. i wish provari would have got with the times because they are single mod battery and i dont know what the lowest ohm they can handle on the tank side but i know they have more limitations then the unit i am using. if you are talking about the P1 they are limited to 15W, i would never be satisfied with that anymore.
i choose the mod that i use because of the battery life, usb charging, max wattage of 160W (i normally vape at 65W) and it seems to be well made. not provari standards but for the money a really nice unit.
what's the better choice buy several spare dripbox mods or a provari that barely fits my wants and needs. i could see buying some spare dripbox mods AND some spare RX200 mods (my wife's vape choice).
also my P1 was a great unit i used it for a few years but it still was not perfect. it had its breakdowns, i had to send it in to get repaired. unless they have improved even more, they still have their problems. the P1 can be had for $70 but they dont fit the needs and wants of the current vaper anymore.
will a brand new never used mod keep in storage or will the electronics "expire" from age?
i choose the mod that i use because of the battery life, usb charging, max wattage of 160W (i normally vape at 65W) and it seems to be well made. not provari standards but for the money a really nice unit.
what's the better choice buy several spare dripbox mods or a provari that barely fits my wants and needs. i could see buying some spare dripbox mods AND some spare RX200 mods (my wife's vape choice).
also my P1 was a great unit i used it for a few years but it still was not perfect. it had its breakdowns, i had to send it in to get repaired. unless they have improved even more, they still have their problems. the P1 can be had for $70 but they dont fit the needs and wants of the current vaper anymore.
will a brand new never used mod keep in storage or will the electronics "expire" from age?
For Regulated Mod's I have
Reuleaux DNA 200 - great Mod. I upgraded to a VT V2 510 pin, insulator and to 16g internal wiring.
Reuleaux RX200 - great work horse and kick around mod
Aspire Pegasus - piece of garbage, wish it would finally die. Wouldn't wish that piece of .... on anyone
Segeli 150 - Great Mod, in the stash
Mini Volt - Toy
iStick 30W - Waiting to be a Vape forward
I rarely use them other than that RX200 for cleaning / pulsing coils.
Regulated Mod's have a limited life cycle, electronics fail, that's what they do.
I went deep down into Mech's, initially just for a FDA Apocalypse nuclear option. Found out that I really love them. They'll last well beyond when I finally kick the bucket. I'm pushing 40 Mech's now, mostly authentic with some Pinoy Mech's.
Anyway I digress, I highly recommend getting at least a couple of quality Mech's. Learn the rules and at least keep them as your nuclear option. I'd recommend at least one parallel.
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Yeah well we all buy things that fit our vaping style.
For me Radius is far better option than a HUGE Dripbox160.
Kinda hate this current trend of big mods & 25 mm atties.
Oh and I wouldn't be speaking of "needs of current vapers" while same time excluding something out.
For me Radius is far better option than a HUGE Dripbox160.
Kinda hate this current trend of big mods & 25 mm atties.
Oh and I wouldn't be speaking of "needs of current vapers" while same time excluding something out.
@ad356 - I agree with everything mattiem said above. Cheap insurance to make sure you can always vape...and never have to go back to the smokes!
By the way, I bought just a 5cu. ft. chest freezer for about $160.00. Electricity to run it a year is @ $18.00.
Before all the FDA crap, I needed to get 1 anyway to store many bags of local blueberries, a bushel each of shelled peas and sweet corn (off the cob), boxes of Omaha Beef steaks, etc. It had all of that in it already, and still had plenty of room for my 4L of nic broken down into glass bottles. Even adding 53lbs. of halibut to it that I caught in June...it still has room for more nic, too. I'm going to take care of that soon though! Holds a lot more than I thought a 5cu. ft. one would!
By the way, I bought just a 5cu. ft. chest freezer for about $160.00. Electricity to run it a year is @ $18.00.
Before all the FDA crap, I needed to get 1 anyway to store many bags of local blueberries, a bushel each of shelled peas and sweet corn (off the cob), boxes of Omaha Beef steaks, etc. It had all of that in it already, and still had plenty of room for my 4L of nic broken down into glass bottles. Even adding 53lbs. of halibut to it that I caught in June...it still has room for more nic, too. I'm going to take care of that soon though! Holds a lot more than I thought a 5cu. ft. one would!
it might be a larger mod but i need to have a mod with multiple batteries, otherwise im walking around with batteries in my pockets. i do not like to do that, besides that such practices are questionable. when i used my P1 years ago i would keep a spare 18350 battery on my person. i dont like to do that. my dripbox, at the end of the day i just plug the micro-usb in... fits me well. i also like not removing the battery, every-time you remove the batteries you wear parts out...... battery doors, ect. the RX200 again has its own charging circuit. i used that device for a while and then passed it on to my wife, we have had it a year plus. strong well made mod. hats off to jay-bo.
can someone please explain the difference of the DNA RX200. i know its a different chipset, but what does it do so differently? doesnt it basically function the same. the cost is more then 2x of a normal RX200
everyone's needs are fit by different devices.
can someone please explain the difference of the DNA RX200. i know its a different chipset, but what does it do so differently? doesnt it basically function the same. the cost is more then 2x of a normal RX200
everyone's needs are fit by different devices.
Nice thing about the marketplace is lots of stuff to please just about everyone. I don't like squonkers, but there are folks who do. I used to be a striclty mtl low wattage type user, but have moved to a more "airy mtl" or 'restricted DL" and a few flat out DL tanks. Makes stocking juices a little harder as I can't use a 12 mg juice in a low ohm dual coil DL tank, but there you go. My choices, and the options are available.
Yes, mechs do belong in a vapocalypse stash as they will be the last to die. They're not my favorite way to vape as I hate the changing performance as the battery drops, but I have them as just in case anyway.
Yes, mechs do belong in a vapocalypse stash as they will be the last to die. They're not my favorite way to vape as I hate the changing performance as the battery drops, but I have them as just in case anyway.
I am assuming that the batteries you carry around are safely in a proper battery case.
Anyway don't charge the RX by USB, only when in a pinch. The RX doesn't have a balanced charge port. Not good, not good at all.
That said I have both. The DNA for one does have a balanced charger and is actually the preferred method if you dail your batteries in. The DNA board is better quality, more options and does perform better. If you like Temperature Control it's one of the best available and very accurate and customizable. I really like mine, hands down beats my RX.
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i dont carry batteries around anymore. thats the point, at least for me having a multiple battery mod. i do not have to worry about battery life. i honestly used to carry my batteries around 1 battery in my pocket by itself, i was not walking around with change in the same pocket. now i dont worry about it.
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will a brand new never used mod keep in storage or will the electronics "expire" from age?[/QUOTE]
I'd buy 4 drip boxes. Better yet, look at some hi-quality Greek or Pacific Rim Mechs. For 150usd you end up with a piece of art. Wattage dependent on your ability to build, not a provape engineer..
I'd buy 4 drip boxes. Better yet, look at some hi-quality Greek or Pacific Rim Mechs. For 150usd you end up with a piece of art. Wattage dependent on your ability to build, not a provape engineer..
I'd buy 4 drip boxes. Better yet, look at some hi-quality Greek or Pacific Rim Mechs. For 150usd you end up with a piece of art. Wattage dependent on your ability to build, not a provape engineer..[/QUOTE]
Personally i think they will last a long time if kept dry and not in damp or humid conditions.
I do have some mods ageing brand new in box and recently installed battery and they work fine.
Have electronic boards and speakers in many of my O Gauge MTH model trains and some have been sitting on shelf for 10 plus years and not much run time on them along with a new MTH remote control with digital changing display from 2002 installed fresh batteries and they all work fine recently.
The boards in the trains which are 2 boards in each unit and have many wires and they look like new and work fine.
What fry's the boards in these model trains as i belong to several train forums is trying to fire them up with dead batteries but BCR types with their storage caps eliminated that problem.
Didn't mean to wonder off topic but give an electronic example of something i fell more complicated with its electronics boards.
Anyways -
Using a same device everyday yes eventually board will fail just like modern model trains run day after day and reason why i have many regulated devices sitting in there corresponding boxes new or only tested.
Yes i think devices will be fine stored properly.
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