Printed DNA 40 Bottom Feeder Mod

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BobC

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1.) 3.1 uses a nut/screw as the top battery terminal, 4.2 uses a standard bat contacts
Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor
2.) 3.1 uses 2 insert fasteners with screws, 4.2 needs 4 sets
McMaster-Carr
3.) 3.1 uses two magnets, 4,2 uses two sizes of magnets, 6 top and 6 bottom
Top: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D26-N52
Bottom: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D24-N52

You can source them individually but it might be cheaper to get the kit when you figure in shipping
 

gdeal

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moresalt

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Do you guys have the part number for the phillips head screw for the brass inserts? Or maybe a link? v3.1 had a hex key'd screw and I see that you're using a phillips head screw now (although a hex key'd screw will work). I have a bunch of the brass inserts but no screws. And yes, I did order parts kits from livewire, but I'd like to have a few extras.

edit: N/M I found the link and a part number
 
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Merlin21

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I'm also in need of a "supplemental parts package", but the shipping is a killer. I think I'll contact the people doing the kits and ask if they'd be willing to do a supplemental kit; but I can't find the link atm, anyone got it handy?

livewiremods ......not sure if I could link website. Great guys, fast on responding
 

Vince159

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And here's the response:

Hi Vince,

Yes, this can be done. I have added a product page that has parts to convert a V3.1 kit to a V4.2 kit. Its located in Kits section under GDNA V4.2.

It will qualify for the $3.00 Priority shipping too. :)

Regards,

Justin

Live Wire Mods

I'm off to pick one up. Thank you Justin from Live Wire Mods!
 

moresalt

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Damn! Just got my parts from sculpteo. Boy, did I mess up. I ordered 2 bodies and 1 set of the internals for each the small screen and large screen. When I started looking them over there were no buttons, rings or base plates. WT....? Checked out sculpteo the 3 different sets are list in Gdeal's shop and this little wording that states "More designs in ...". Opps! I didn't even see the "all parts" stuff. Its a good thing George knows there are DS's like me out there, cause he has the buttons, rings and baseplates separate. Well, I don't have the DNA's yet either so I'd have to wait for those anyway. :facepalm:
 

Merlin21

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Have to say this is one of the most stressful thing to date, soldering a DNA board.... I needed a 6 pack and 36 mg nic for this..... Word of advice to someone doing this for the first time, keep your wires going through the holes as short as possible and work your way from the inside holes out (3-4, then 2- 5, then 1-7) not like me outside to in :facepalm:

Now for the experts, I have a few questions if you would be so kind to answer:

Besides the shoddy soldering anything look out of place?

0318151822.jpg


Second question, can I attach the Up Down Tact Switches, Positive battery leaf with out having the internals or should I wait.

Third question, Up Down Tact Switches I have to solder all 4 legs on each? And the firing switch only 2 legs?

Last question I hope.... Is there anyway to fire up the DNA Board? Connect B+ to positive side of a battery and GND to negative?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you for any help little nervous this being the first time doing something like this... I was spoiled by my Peko
 

BobC

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1.) Can't really see your connections, but they look OK from afar
2.) You can solder the Up/Down buttons now, depends how you solder it and length of the wire, make sure you can place the soldered connector to the base
3.) one leg on each side, you could have used one board button - wire connected to both buttons as it's a common channel on the board.
4.) Yes, if your fire button is intact, you just have to click it to activate the display, if not, short the Fire +/- wires
 
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moresalt

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While I'm not an expert on the V4.2....but, black wires for the output & bat+??? That could cause some confusion down the road.

Third question...just 2 legs on each switch, up, down, fire...doesn't matter.
Last question...yes, B+ to positive, GND to negative. You'll have to use the on board fire switch to get the screen to light up.

Boy that Bobc is quick
 

KurrptSenate

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Ordered the upgrade parts kit from live wire as well. It will give me more time to flesh out the aesthetics of the shell. I only did a little of the dry fitting. It seems if I put the connector piece into the top cap it's going to be rough getting it back out.

I'm going to wait to solder until I have everything
 

Merlin21

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Thank you for the replies Gentlemen, hope I din't come off as grilling with the numbering of questions, was just trying to get an answer to each with out confusion.

Black Wires are 18 awg and blue are 24 awg..... Black B+ will go to the positive Battery on the bottom and Black Out goes to mini connector --> to atty .... Right or did I f'up? Won't be the first time
 

moresalt

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Yea, that sounds right. Its just a convention that a connection to the positive side of the battery use red wire. The output can be thought of as the positive side also although somewhere I remember someone said something about it being negative? Or maybe I didn't fully comprehend exactly what was said. In any event I normally use red 18 ga for the output. It saves some confusion when wiring to the mini connectors.
 

gdeal

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