ProChat - All Things ProVape and Beyond
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Thought this article was interesting and something I think most of us know. People who vape, are for the most current or former smokers. Period.
Most E-Cigarette Users Are Current And Ex-Smokers, Not Newbies
Most E-Cigarette Users Are Current And Ex-Smokers, Not Newbies
Why yes it is. Tapatalk doesn't give you the option to embed a link in text. So I tried some old code. Guess it didn't work.
Tapatyped
Well, Likety Likety, Like Like Like!!!
LOLz, Jim
PS You don't like Cotton Breakfast Sausage?!? Best Wickin EVA!!!
Did somebody say...
Black Friday?!?
The link on that graphic isn't going to work on BF, there will be an entirely different one that will appear on BF and disappear when it's over. I'm sure somebody will find the correct one, probably this Monday or so.
Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out, the clear fire button just rests above the rubber button/switch so be sure to grab it so you don't lose it.....
Now the button/switch can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
So leaving the main part of the old button soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate with the new one making sure it was the right way round.
Then gently placed the new rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my .... in gear and bought the O-ring instead of using glue!
First with the screen facing down, place the clear fire button in the recess/hole, now slide the board in making sure the fire button is still in place. Next I found my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but in the end I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
his words.......
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out, the clear fire button just rests above the rubber button/switch so be sure to grab it so you don't lose it.....
Now the button/switch can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
So leaving the main part of the old button soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate with the new one making sure it was the right way round.
Then gently placed the new rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my .... in gear and bought the O-ring instead of using glue!
First with the screen facing down, place the clear fire button in the recess/hole, now slide the board in making sure the fire button is still in place. Next I found my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but in the end I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
his words......."that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
Last edited:
Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out.....
View attachment 507697
Now the button can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
View attachment 507699
View attachment 507700
View attachment 507701
So leaving the main part soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
View attachment 507710
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
View attachment 507704
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate making sure it was the right way round.
View attachment 507705
Then gently place the rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
View attachment 507706
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my ... in gear and bought the O-ring, my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
View attachment 507709
WOOT WOOT!!! Congrats on saving that sweet mod Stan!
Great job, and write up Stan.Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out.....
View attachment 507697
Now the button can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
View attachment 507699
View attachment 507700
View attachment 507701
So leaving the main part soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
View attachment 507710
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
View attachment 507704
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate making sure it was the right way round.
View attachment 507705
Then gently place the rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
View attachment 507706
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my ... in gear and bought the O-ring, my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
View attachment 507709
I agree, I was chatting with Blake from Provape and he said his only dissapointment with the Radius being polycarbonate is they wont get to see the wear and tear like they do with the originals.Interesting Stan. There is something attractive about a well worn Provari.
Adds character to them, wish I still had my original Provari, my "future" mother in law still uses it though so it went to a good home.
I think I mighta been tempted to take Stan's black mini and, while it was gutted, sand it down to metal leaving only the tear drops being black. That would be kewl.
Is it really necessary to disparage members that were just trying to help get the facts of the matter out?
Cheers Bud, made my brothers day!WOOT WOOT!!! Congrats on saving that sweet mod Stan!
It should/could have been a lot better, well the photos anyway but it was quite nerve wracking fixing it with my brother looking over my shoulder watching every move haha. I meant to photo my glue job (which I was quite proud of lol) but the excitement of getting it back together took over!Great job, and write up Stan.
I think I mighta been tempted to take Stan's black mini and, while it was gutted, sand it down to metal leaving only the tear drops being black. That would be kewl.
Oh I tried to pursuade him to let me do it, the response was something like "it took me 3 years to get it looking like that, no chance"
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