That would be the only thing that would keep me from doing it.Oh I tried to pursuade him to let me do it, the response was something like "it took me 3 years to get it looking like that, no chance"
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Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out.....
View attachment 507697
Now the button can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
View attachment 507699
View attachment 507700
View attachment 507701
So leaving the main part soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
View attachment 507710
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
View attachment 507704
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate making sure it was the right way round.
View attachment 507705
Then gently place the rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
View attachment 507706
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my ... in gear and bought the O-ring, my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happyhis words
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
View attachment 507709
Wow, great job. I could never do this, but it's great to see how and what you did! Nice brother you are. Yes you are!
So impressive - I would never be able to do anything like that either.Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out.....
View attachment 507697
Now the button can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
View attachment 507699
View attachment 507700
View attachment 507701
So leaving the main part soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
View attachment 507710
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
View attachment 507704
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate making sure it was the right way round.
View attachment 507705
Then gently place the rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
View attachment 507706
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my ... in gear and bought the O-ring, my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
View attachment 507709
I don't see that here myself?!?
What members were disparaged?!?
Confused, Jim
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did you not read the quoted post in my reply?
"It was more for entertainment value. They're having that, I know more then you about watts and volts, chest thumping thing going on. Again."
Please don't play innocent with me. We all know who he was talking about.
Well let me apologize for everyone...
We can be too snarky from time to time.
Hope we can all just shake it off, and continue to build friendships!!!
Jim
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No.....No it's not going to spill here. The topic has been discussed enough in the Radius thread. If anyone feels they simply must have VV, that's their choice and they can certainly contact Provape and offer the suggestion. But there's simply no reason to argue about it here. No there's not.
So let me get this straight, one member here has a right to insult other members, but I am not allowed to comment on it? Is one pig here better than other pigs here? Is this some sort of private club conducting it's business out in the open, with their own set of rules?
I beg your pardon? You don't refer to anyone here as a Pig? That's completely uncalled for and if you continue, as the thread starter (OP), I suggest you read the opening post. This is a friendly thread. Anyone who is disrespectful can be shown the door. I suggest you take your anger elsewhere.......
Getting back to Stan's repair, that is really helpful! I understand keeping that bad boy just as beaten up and scarred as it is - badges of survival there! My black V2 looks like it survived an apocalypse lol.
Sorry --- but to me that comment fits for several in the discussion/debate. I don't think it was meant to be about any one poster.
We're bullies and should be ashamed of ourselves. We're just awful people. OK there. It's over. Now lets move on.
Sorry if everyone has already seen this, I must have missed it? for you Kabuki fans.....
I've decided to bag a Kabuki, not sure that I will get on with it but I loved my beyond vape Silo before I found subtanks, so im sure I can love MTL again. If I dont love it then ill gift it to someone at christmas.
I've decided to bag a Kabuki, not sure that I will get on with it but I loved my beyond vape Silo before I found subtanks, so im sure I can love MTL again. If I dont love it then ill gift it to someone at christmas.
Not sure how helpful this will be for folks, but I promised a little step by step so here it is, apologies for the bad photos and illiterate descriptions
Disclamer: I am not saying this is how it should be done, just how I did it!
First, removing the top cap. I don't like the screwdriver method you see on you tube vids, I found it far easier and less risky to just attach an old nautilus screwed down flush and wiggle it. Rock it gently from side to side making sure you support the top cap so it doesn't fly off and damage the wires or solder points.
Then slide the board out.....
View attachment 507697
Now the button can be completely removed and the new one soldered on, but following advice I went with the easiest option. Here is a break down of the button.
View attachment 507699
View attachment 507700
View attachment 507701
So leaving the main part of the old button soldered in place, I used a pin and gently prized the metal clip from one side, then the other and the rubber button and metal top part lifted off revealing the little contact plate which I also removed.
View attachment 507710
As you can see in the next pic, (and some of the above where it's balanced on top lol) the rubber button had totally ripped away from the membrane. It had actually been used for the last week broken like that and just squashed back in place (like in the first pic), didnt feel nice but it worked lol!
View attachment 507704
Now I gave the inside a quick clean with some isopropyl alcohol then replaced the contact plate with the new one making sure it was the right way round.
View attachment 507705
Then gently placed the new rubber button and top plate/cover back on, making sure the clips sit snugly in place.
View attachment 507706
Now this is where it became fun and I wished I had got my .... in gear and bought the O-ring, my glue gun is naff so it took a few practice attempts but in the end I got a nice neat blob each side to hold the board in place. Squashed the topcap back on and E4 ERROR
No only joking, perfect working Provari mini with a lovely new button and the display in the right place, my brother was very happy
"that'll be good for another 3 years now, nice one bruv! "
View attachment 507709
Thank you for posting the tutorial, that is just what I needed to see.
Is the button brown now? Did he lose the clear ProVari button?
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I loved my Silo as well (I think I still have it in my vape drawer). Take what's great about the Silo. Add in what's great about a KFL+ or Russian 91%. Make the flavor better and make the vape consistent and abundant, and you have the Kabuki. These things defy logic. Yes they do! Oh and on my Kabuki, I don't do only MTL. More than half the time I do direct to lung and it works just fine. All at 9.8 watts on a Provari.
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Sorry Ocelot I should have taken a pic of that to make it clearer. The clear button is still present and correct, that sits above the little rubber button you see in the pics. I missed that step out, ill update my little guide
If you look down inside the tube of your provari, you'll see the little brown button/switch just underneath the clear button you press
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